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6.1 into 87 Dakota

85K views 109 replies 13 participants last post by  Glen440 
#1 ·
I'm in the process of putting a 6.1 hemi into a 1987 dodge dakota. I bought it back in june. It was a 3.9 v6 with a 904 transmission.
I'm going to just do an engine swap and get it driving before doing a transmission and rear axle. I have a 727 and dana 60 from another car. Really want overdrive so maybe an a500 or 518.

Its proving to be a bit more fabrication than I originally anticipated. I'm doing this in my driveway as I have my original project 39 chev inside. I need the dakota frame for that car but have decided to drive the truck around first.

I have made engine mounts on the engine side to mate to the original v6 mounts. If I do this again I will make new mounts on the crossmember as they are taking up valuable header space.

Engine needs a spacer between the transmission as the conversion flexplate pushes the torque converter all the way in the transmission. I made a 1/8 spacer to start.

Brake booster is too big. Valve cover fits barely with no coil pack. I have not decided what way to go, smaller booster, hydro boost or manual brakes.

I thought I could fit an exhaust manifold but the passenger side is only 3 inches from the upper control arm. The downward angled exhaust is a huge problem. I see why the old bigblocks fit better. I had a 440 A body and F body, they had way more room. I just started on headers last weekend. I made my own header flanges and bought the cheapest sbc header kit I could find. Its a challenge as all the bends are random and not true mandrel as the bends are smaller. The aluminized mild steel tube is hard to see while tig welding from whatever in it burns. I may just mig them as I was tacking with mig in the car. I do not have a tig at home. Stainless was just way too expensive for my first try at headers. It this goes under the chev the engine needs set back a foot so would need new ones anyway.

Fuel system is an external fuel pump with corvette fuel filter as the regulator. Tank has baffles so I put a fitting in the bottom and return in the original pickup.

Cooling is unknown until I put the engine in for last time and rad support on. Its gonna be a tight fit.

Computer is a megasquirt gold box which came with a wiring harness. Trying to find a spot for it. May put it behind glove box so you open the door to access.

I modified the stock throttle body to run a cable, it will also do throttle pressure for the transmission. I modified a ford iac motor for idle control.

I'll post pics when I figure out how maybe from my phone.
 
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#53 ·
I ended up converting it over to power brakes. I used a setup for a 1990 3/4 ton dodge. It has a 9 1/4" vacuum booster. It took a bit of modifying to get it to bolt in and work. The brakes are awesome now and maybe a little touchy as I had to increase pedal ratio to straighten out the angle of the pedal push rod.

I'm having a hard time trying to get it to tune wide open throttle, it has 3.23 open rear. First gear will do over 60mph but has no traction anywhere once near full throttle. I'm trying to not load it up to much in higher gears cause I figure a full throttle down shift will hurt the transmission.

It runs and drives really good. I do not have a tach so I always think its stalled when coming to a stop as I cannot hear it or feel it running.
 
#56 ·
I drove it to work yesterday. It runs really good. The transmission has hurt 3rd gear, it slips on the 2-3 shift at almost no throttle once its hot.

Its time to find a rear axle and get the transmission and rear rebuilt for next spring. Thinking about running a 3500 stall and 4.10 gears. With the lockup converter it should be able to cruise at 2000 rpm on the highway.

Power brakes

 
#57 ·
I adjusted the band and it has helped the 2-3 shift. I'm going to drill and tap a new lower
Hole in the pivot for throttle pressure to increase pressure at no throttle. I'm thinking since it takes very little throttle to get up to speed line pressure is low.
 
#58 ·
I finished the A/C system. Will have to get it leak checked then charge it. A little wiring to do. Have to find a good spot for the cycling switch.

I'm going to finish the cold air intake, its going to snake under the A/C lines and hopefully get fresh air. Time to get out the sawzall. Its really hot up above the valve cover.

 
#61 ·
Thanks

I have the air filter moved and the AC mostly wired. I'm just playing with the AC shutoff features in the efi. The one it has sends a signal to turn off which I do not like because I need to run a 2nd relay. I'm trying to make my own output to turn it on as well as deactivate it by rpm. Just have to try it to see if it works, I figured out how to make my own in the efi software.

The air filter out of the engine compartment dropped the IAT 50F. I can try to direct some air at it.

I see Holley has vvt and active runner control now. Under the transmission in the software it does say chrysler as future. Mine does not have transmission control when its released but uses the same software so I can look at it.


 
#62 ·
I went and picked up my Dana 60 I had built back in 2004, it has 1000+ 1/4 mile passes and a few 1000 street miles. Was in my 77 Plymouth Volare. We broke the rear frame picking the car up. I also grabbed my full manual 727. Using the billet steel front drum for the 518. Dana 60 is around 3 inches narrower and perch mounts need moved a little. The Dakota has 5" back space, 6" wide rims so I will even it out with wider rims on 4.5" backspace.

I took the Dakota on the 3 hour round trip, it runs awesome.

 
#64 ·
That is a different disc brake setup. I think you'll have enough tire.

I plan to run something a bit smaller, maybe a drag radial if I think it can hook. Might run mono leafs with cal trac bars. I do have the slide-a-link bars from my Volare. May try stock leafs with them first. I'm not too confident this long box will hook. I can pull power on launch with the efi if I have to.
 
#69 · (Edited)
I'm following this guy, Hellcat swap into dakota. You can go back to the start, has lots of good info.



 
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#71 ·
I have thought about making a uni-body Dakota, would take some weight out of it as you can use smaller frame rails and aftermarket front suspension.

I'm going to see how fast a stock 6.1 is before I dig into the engine. Since they are weak down low the 4500 stall should fix that. After I see what it runs I will decide what to do with it.

DBL.DWN I guess you have a tube bender and tig?

coanan I have seen a couple of his videos, I'm following a wide body magnum build starting with a 2015 Charger. Some people have incredible skills.

I have always wanted to build a rear wheel drive hemi Daytona, there are a few out there.
 
#72 ·
I have thought about making a uni-body Dakota, would take some weight out of it as you can use smaller frame rails and aftermarket front suspension.

I'm going to see how fast a stock 6.1 is before I dig into the engine. Since they are weak down low the 4500 stall should fix that. After I see what it runs I will decide what to do with it.

DBL.DWN I guess you have a tube bender and tig?

coanan I have seen a couple of his videos, I'm following a wide body magnum build starting with a 2015 Charger. Some people have incredible skills.

I have always wanted to build a rear wheel drive hemi Daytona, there are a few out there.
Junkyard Dave??
 
#74 ·
I've been following for quite some time.

Can't wait for the charger wagon to roll.

Little disappointed he didn't get the Trackhawk suspension going.
 
#76 ·
I pulled the rear end out yesterday and did a test fit of the Dana 60. The perch mounts were close enough I pushed the springs out and bolted it together. I have gas tank clearance which I was concerned about.

I'm trying to figure out what rims to order. The fronts are the issue with having a 15x6 with a 5" back space. I have a few options outside of Draglites which they would fit the best as the better backspace and width options.

Might drop the transmission this weekend, I'm waiting on a selective spacer and the transmission can be completed Also torque converter has not shipped yet.. Lucky I work with someone who has the tool to measure the intermediate shaft end play, transmission had the wrong spacer. I need the transmision in to check pinion angle. Then I can weld the new perch mounts and order a drive shaft.

 
#79 ·
I have test fit the 46rh 2 times now. It's a tight squeeze. Working on the transmission mount and shifter linkage.
Passenger side header is an issue, will have to live with it for now, a dent will not get enough clearance to be able to remove the Trans pan if necessary.

Because I cannot remove a header I have to stand it on its side to jack it up between the headers then roll it.

Driveshaft will be 61 inches, will have to see what the driveshaft shop says for what I need.
 
#81 ·
Getting a little more done. I cut off the old perch mounts and put it back in the truck. I made some shock brackets as well. Driveshaft should be done Monday or Tuesday. I had a local shop make me one. I bought a yoke to measure length, going 1350 u joints on both ends. Changed the rear end yoke as well. Going to be a 3.5" 60 3/4" long steel. I have my new rims and rear tires as well, will take a pic when I test fit them. Rear should be ok, front will end up sticking out more than I want. I did not have many options, was going to go steel rims but aluminum were cheaper and available, alot of rims are months out.

 
#82 ·
I got my driveshaft and wheels done today. I'm going to have to lower the engine a bit to correct my front driveshaft angle. Transmission is 5.5 down, driveshaft 2.3 down. I will try to raise the transmission first to see effect on the angle but it is close to the floor. I wanted to lower the truck, that would make things worse. I want to get the front angle closer to 2. 1-3 is safe, I will be pushing the limits of driveshaft speed so i want to correct it. Pinion end can be set whatever I want so its not an issue. Moving the engine angle maybe have an effect on exhaust fitment, may have to hack it a bit. I have some thinking to do

Test fit of my new wheels, back clear good, will have room for the wider drag radial with a 4" back space. front are not too bad.




 
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