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Thread: New Battery

  1. #1
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    New Battery

    My 05RT OE battery was replaced at about 10 yrs with an Advance Auto AGM. It lasted about 6 1/2 yrs. I replaced it today with a Walmart Everstart standard battery that has a sticker on it that says Made in Germany! How about that! A Walmart battery made in Germany. $150 plus tax. I wonder if it's that same one the chrysler dealer sells?



  2. #2
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    To get 6 1/2 years out of an automotive battery is seriously impressive, but to get 10 years out of one.... That's unheard of, at least here in Hawai'i lol. You're definitely getting your moneys worth.

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    No two battery life expectancies are going to be the same. On my 2005 Magnum, I did a preventative maintenance and replaced the battery with an OEM one after ten years, even though there were no signs of a problem. It was just that we were heading into a cold winter. Shortly thereafter, I traded the car in. My 2011 Charger has the original 10 year old battery with no apparent problems. Now, my Caddy, on the other hand started having a problem at 48 months. I was told that 48 months was "IT" for a Caddy with all the electronics. It was an expensive unit, but an OEM Delco to be on the safe side.

    2011 Toxic Orange Charger R/T R&T (license plate "BUK8LIST") Factory Repro rims/Nitto Invos, Aria CAI. Solo Exhaust, Daytona chin spoiler. Window tint.

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    Neither of those two batteries were dead. The engine was turning a little slower when it was started so I went ahead and replaced them.
    I bought my old 2002 F150LariatFX4 in 2009 with a dead battery. I bought a new battery, an Autozone I think, for it that lasted 5 years. The replacement Sam's club battery is almost 7 years old and it appears to be getting a tad weak. My wife's 2013 Infiniti's, an EX37 bought new, original battery lasted 7 years, recently replaced with a Walmart battery. Here in Wilmington, NC, the weather is mild. This winter so far just barely dips below freezing at night with January day time highs averaging about 50 degrees so that helps the batterys.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by CADYWAGN View Post
    my Caddy, on the other hand started having a problem at 48 months. I was told that 48 months was "IT" for a Caddy with all the electronics. It was an expensive unit, but an OEM Delco to be on the safe side.
    When I hear stuff like that it's a head-scratcher. Any vehicle's electronics run off the alternator, not the battery. The battery is for starting the vehicle and for maintaining a few memory items while the vehicle is off, as well as operating an antitheft system. Unless for some reason a Caddy doesn't shut down unnecessary systems after key off, it makes no sense why that vehicle would be any more demanding on a battery than another.

    Richard
    06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by someotherguy View Post
    When I hear stuff like that it's a head-scratcher. Any vehicle's electronics run off the alternator, not the battery. The battery is for starting the vehicle and for maintaining a few memory items while the vehicle is off, as well as operating an antitheft system. Unless for some reason a Caddy doesn't shut down unnecessary systems after key off, it makes no sense why that vehicle would be any more demanding on a battery than another.

    Richard

    I know that when I replaced the Caddy battery, the system had a good backup, as all the memory items (radio, seat, mirrors etc.) remained as they were before while I had the battery out. I remember from years ago, replacing a battery meant resetting all the presets again.
    Of course, that was only the Caddy parts guy telling me that! Not a Mopar guy at all. Remember, I only bought the Caddy Wagon because after 3 Magnums (plus an original 1978 Magnum) Mopar stopped producing them in May 2008. But the guy who had a hand in the Magnum design, had some input into the Caddy Wagon design. One day, there will be another Magnum Wagon. Only hope I'm still around to get one!! lol
    When people ask me how I like the Caddy, my answer is "Well, it's no Dodge"

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    Heh...yeah the parts guy likely just excusing the poor performance from the previous battery while setting low expectations for the replacement one!

    Richard

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    I highly doubt the battery is actually "manufactured" in Germany. Just to ship them to NA would be cost-prohibitive...

    Given the importance of ensuring battery integrity and service life for new vehicles (the last thing any OEM needs is widespread battery battery warranty headaches), their contract has all units coming from East Penn Manufacturing. In simple terms; you will not find a higher quality battery elsewhere. What is noteworthy is that pretty well all lead acid batteries across NA are manufactured by only two plants now.

    It's worth knowing that there indeed are different(!) levels of quality and reliability - depending on the rebrand marque. How long your battery lasts is all about you - the end-user...

    Lead Acid Battery Basics...
    Last edited by Hemissary; 01-27-2021 at 05:08 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    How long your battery lasts is all about you - the end-user...

    Lead Acid Battery Basics...
    I disagree with this statement. In recent years, I've had good luck with battery life. My car that the Magnum replaced was a 95 Mark VIII Lincoln. Its battery died after 11 yrs and an 18 hour trip and that car sat in the garage without being started for 3 weeks at a time for several years. Next morning, the starter would only click. In older times, I had Sears Diehard batterys in my two cars. One died after one year and the other after 3 yrs. That is when I switched to other brands that were cheaper. I splurged on the Advance auto AGM for the Magnum and it only lasted 6 1/2 yrs, same as the standard sam's club battery in my truck. I do believe in AGM batterys for my motorcycles because AGMs don't lose their charge as quickly just sitting as standard batterys.

  10. #10
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    In my experience working in an auto parts store, the batteries that last longest are the ones mounted inside the car because they stay cooler. The ones under the hood are exposed to all kinds of heat, therefore they don't last as long. I'm sure there are other factors involved, but the ambient temperature in the battery area is the biggest one. Here in Phoenix most batteries last about 2 years if they're under the hood, and 6+mounted in the car.

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2005rtmag View Post
    I disagree with this statement. In recent years, I've had good luck with battery life. My car that the Magnum replaced was a 95 Mark VIII Lincoln. Its battery died after 11 yrs and an 18 hour trip and that car sat in the garage without being started for 3 weeks at a time for several years. Next morning, the starter would only click. In older times, I had Sears Diehard batterys in my two cars. One died after one year and the other after 3 yrs. That is when I switched to other brands that were cheaper. I splurged on the Advance auto AGM for the Magnum and it only lasted 6 1/2 yrs, same as the standard sam's club battery in my truck. I do believe in AGM batterys for my motorcycles because AGMs don't lose their charge as quickly just sitting as standard batterys.
    Not sure what you're saying here; do you know what the standby current consumption is on that 97' Lincoln - compared any / all of our 3G rides?

    What I should have stated is that resellers, every one that you mentioned, are way WAY more about marketing and advertising claims then actual over-the-counter performance (one of thee worst - Diehard). What I was trying to spell out is that buying an OEM battery from the Dealership is very VERY likely to out-perform any of the aftermarket products. As to end-user abuse; sitting listening to tunes or other activities like "trickle charging" literally rob flooded batteries of service life.

    Lead acid batteries simply do NOT like to be depleted. Each time they are, depending on how low the voltage goes, less or more(!) service life is literally removed never(!) to be replaced (don't believe the snake oil out there that somehow batteries can be "rejuvinated").

    All this is controllable by you...the end-user.

    AGM simply means Absorbed Glass Mat construction, common to most flooded battery construction...nothing special here. In fact, a / any battery sitting with no load will eventually go dead due to inherent internal resistance. This will never change. Lithium Polymer on the other hand, either primary (non-chargeable) or secondary (rechargeable) exhibit incredibly low(!) internal resistance, so therefore. Cells or packs (multiple cells connected in series and / or parallel) can sit on a shelf for years with negligible losses of either voltage or capacity as the internals age. On the other hand, its that incredible lack of internal resistance that makes them very dangerous if shorted (can be in excess of 1000A - even with smallish single cells). Your bike is holding charge because there's no standby current consumption...
    Last edited by Hemissary; 01-27-2021 at 10:09 PM.
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  12. #12
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    I was trying to say that my experience is that battery life doesn't appear to have anything to do with how I abuse the car. The lincoln battery being left unstarted in the garage for weeks at a time for years should have killed it early but it lasted 11 years. I didn't even own a battery charger until recent years. But now, I have to go down to the marina and charge my boat battery if it sits too long because it has to power the bilge pump and will go dead if I don't use the boat or charge the battery. And I do keep trickle chargers on my motorcycle batterys. My smart charger said my new Magnum battery was 90% charged at 12.6 volts and I charged it to 100% before installing it. Being retired I drive my Mag and F150 about 3k miles each annually unless I drive one of them on vacation trips which is not the best for battery life.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2005rtmag View Post
    I was trying to say that my experience is that battery life doesn't appear to have anything to do with how I abuse the car. The lincoln battery being left unstarted in the garage for weeks at a time for years should have killed it early but it lasted 11 years. I didn't even own a battery charger until recent years. But now, I have to go down to the marina and charge my boat battery if it sits too long because it has to power the bilge pump and will go dead if I don't use the boat or charge the battery. And I do keep trickle chargers on my motorcycle batterys. My smart charger said my new Magnum battery was 90% charged at 12.6 volts and I charged it to 100% before installing it. Being retired I drive my Mag and F150 about 3k miles each annually unless I drive one of them on vacation trips which is not the best for battery life.

    But that's just it; no STNBY current consumption, or a rate that is a tenth of our platforms is going to allow for significantly longer periods of down-time - without appreciable loss of starting PWR or duration (length of turnover before start). So no, what you propose wouldn't "kill it". You can also add to this the premise that indeed, the battery in your Lincoln was one that was designed and built with quality components and meant to last..as opposed to the crap we seed everywhere back then and since.

    The boat battery; different set of operating parameters so can't be used as a comparison.

    A battery that is displaying 12.6V and current is still taking current means that battery has a charge-acceptance issue...higher internal resistance!

    I'll leave everyone with this important tip; every time a flooded battery is discharged to a point of being considered dead (see my write-up), you have literally taken a significant chunk of service life away...never to be replaced! Every single time a discharge event to that degree happens...more and more service life has gone down the toilet.

    FWIW; I still have the OEM battery out of the 05' Magnum. From an OCT / 04 production date, which means the battery is significantly older than that, it still tests nominally. That is 17 years. How? Cause I look after them...which means I would never put a trickle charger on them for starters. That battery serves multiple duty; running the vehicle hoist, operating a Ford long shaft starter motor that has a spool ion it for towing up sailplanes, a field supply for charging hi-performance Li-poly batteries used as propulsion in high performance aircraft and to boost neighbors - who have not looked after their own batteries.

    Properly understanding lead acid battery technology would reduce the abuse...


    Last edited by Hemissary; 01-27-2021 at 11:17 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post

    which means I would never put a trickle charger on them for starters.
    I have a 1996 Concorde 3.5L and 2008 300 3.5L that can sit in my garage for extended times. I drive both of them occasionally, maybe once a week or two. I'm retired. I have Battery Tender Jrs hooked to both. The Concorde has an electrical short somewhere. I think it's about 75ma drain and would cause the battery to die in a couple of weeks. Unable to find the source of the drain, Battery Tender Jr has been keeping it charged for 5 - 6 years. 300 doesn't have a problem like the Concorde, but it sits for long periods.

    Are you saying the Battery Tender Jrs are not good to use for my purpose?

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    Quote Originally Posted by msmcintosh View Post
    I have a 1996 Concorde 3.5L and 2008 300 3.5L that can sit in my garage for extended times. I drive both of them occasionally, maybe once a week or two. I'm retired. I have Battery Tender Jrs hooked to both. The Concorde has an electrical short somewhere. I think it's about 75ma drain and would cause the battery to die in a couple of weeks. Unable to find the source of the drain, Battery Tender Jr has been keeping it charged for 5 - 6 years. 300 doesn't have a problem like the Concorde, but it sits for long periods.

    Are you saying the Battery Tender Jrs are not good to use for my purpose?
    The parasitic drain issue is forcing you to use a battery tender; the solution would be to find root cause - the current source :^)

    Battery tenders that constantly apply a minute current / voltage cause plate sulfation (sulfur iron crystallization). This process increases internal resistance (the propensity to self-discharge as if there was a soit short across B+/- terminals).

    Some options:
    - Use a smart charger (voltage sensing in the case of lead acid) periodically to charge at a rate of 10A or 10% or more of rated capacity is what flooded cells respond to
    - Disconnect B- at battery terminal (problem solved for a long time)
    - Purchase a smart battery tender that employs burst mode; they charge at ~10A then shut down entirely and monitor, then repeat as necessary.

    Any circumstance that deprives a lead acid battery of a full charge (<12.4V) for any length of time will remove service life; for example under-charging, over-charging, constant high or low ambient temperature. LA batteries are happiest at 25C. As temperature deviates in either direction, capacity, charge acceptance and service life decrease. At 0C, capacity (read as sustained cranking output) and charge acceptance (the ability to recharge to 100%) drops to ~60%. The same detrimental affect occurs as temperature increase above 25C.

    Given I enjoy breathing on cars, during the driving season I will check BATT V periodically if its not being driven, then charge using a smart charger, as required. When winter sets in, I disconnect the battery and still monitor periodically / charge (garage / storage temperature is a little over 20C).

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