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6.1 Oil Pump removal

14K views 55 replies 10 participants last post by  Hemissary 
#1 ·
Hi everyone,
I had posted earlier about timing cover removal to fix coolant leak in my SRT8.
Got the cover off and I was like might as well do a timing set since I already have it open.

Now I need to remove the oil pump, removed the 4 bolts from the pump but it's not coming out.
I really hope I don't need to remove the oil pan to get access to the pickup tube bolt.

So I'm reaching out to you guys for advice and instructions.

Thanks :D
 
#2 ·
Im just finishing up installing a Manley billet double roller and SRT MAX cam in my 06 300 SRT8 and the pan had to come down. I pulled the 2 steering racks bolts and let it hang in place it gave me more room to get at all the pan bolts and allowed for the pan to come down and rest on the cross member.

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#3 ·
Mine had a bolt and a nut on the pick up tube, one at the pump and one farther down that connects the gasket/windage tray to the block, only way to get to them was dropping the pan

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#5 ·
I don't know about the 6.1, but with the 5.7, you can remove the 4 oil pump bolts and then turn the pump clockwise. This will raise the oil pump pickup far enough out of the oil pan that you will be able to unbolt it and remove it from the pump. Then the oil pump will slide right off the crank.

But after reading Teddy's post, maybe all 6.1 have a second bolt in the pick up tube that the 5.7s do not? I guess all you can do is try.
 
#6 ·
I don't know about the 6.1, but with the 5.7, you can remove the 4 oil pump bolts and then turn the pump clockwise. This will raise the oil pump pickup far enough out of the oil pan that you will be able to unbolt it and remove it from the pump. Then the oil pump will slide right off the crank.

But after reading Teddy's post, maybe all 6.1 have a second bolt in the pick up tube that the 5.7s do not? I guess all you can do is try.
Yeah you cannot rotate to get access to the bolt.
 
#7 ·
Yes there are a total of 4 M10 bolts 15mm head that need to be removed from the transmission as well, I was dreading it too but once I did the whole thing I found it not to be too bad, there is so much room for getting at the pick up tube bolts once the pan is dropped

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#8 · (Edited)
You don't(!) have to drop the pan! Simply undo the oil pickup bolt, slightly rotate the pump clockwise, undo the pickup bolt, secure the oil pickup tube out of the way, rotate the oil pump clock-wise a bit and slide it off.

After removing the oil pan bolts that secure the pan o the front timing cover, hopefully(!) you undid 3-4 oil pan bolts on either side along the side of the oil pan to prevent damaging the oil pan gasket when dragging the timing cover off. This also assists re-installation of the timing cover.
 
#9 ·
LoL, yes you do!

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#10 ·
Hey Hemissary how did you get to nut farther down on the pick up tube after you removed the 1st bolt that connects it to the pump? Because there isn't just the one by holding it on, but I'm sure you knew that...

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#11 ·
There is actually a second connection point farther down, its a small stanchion with a stud and nut that holds the pan gasket/windage tray to block as well. If you look close at the picture, how do you think the tube is just floating there unsecured? It's because it's not! it's actually still attached to that stanchion just loosened for enough to allow it to drop down a bit so you can remove the pick up tube.

I am speaking from 1st hand experience not hearsay or a forum post I read somewhere And again speaking only for my 2006 Chrysler 300 SRT8 6.1, this may not be the case for all "Hemis" but this may be your case if you can not rotate the pump.


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#12 ·
When I did mine, I loosened the bolts towards the front and middle of the oil pan enough to drop the pan about an inch, and then I slid a wrench in there and tied a piece of string around the pickup tube bolt as I was backing it out so that it wouldn't drop into the pan.
 
#20 ·
Ok update guys.
I worked on the car for a bit today. I took off these bolts.
6 10mm bolts on each side of the pan
3 15mm bolts on each side of the pan
2 10mm bolts in the middle of the pan, back of it by the tranny

so I think I took off all the bolts to the pan...However the pan is just budging a bit not as much as I want it to. It will certainly will not/did not drop so I can have access to the bolt from the pickup tube. Scared to pry it, I don't want to break anything.
 
#21 ·
Yes, definitely do not pry, there are 2 more 15MM bolts that you need to remove to drop it fully. I will take some pics when I get home.
 
#22 ·
My problem now is figuring out what is contacting the front cover after this Manley double roller timing set install. I think the cam reluctor wheel is making contact on the inside of the front cover??
 
#28 ·
I wonder if my machine shop could knock that cut path out for me real quick, I am just nervous about going through to the water pump cavity.:panic:
 
#24 ·
Hey TRQmonster! thank you for the pics and insight on the clearance issue, what did you use to remove the material on the front cover? and after that any more issues? how about the harmonic balancer any issue with that going on?
 
#30 ·
OK I will give it a shot when I pull the front cover off today
 
#31 ·
Update.
Got the Oil Pump off. Great.
Wanting to put everything back in now.
Car has 190K Miles. Oil Pump is original.
Should I go ahead and replace it?

Engine is stock 6.1 with a tune and exhaust. No plans for any power add-ons.

If it is a good idea to replace it? If it is, which brands to stay away from and how much do they run for?
Also, what replacement brands do you recommend?

Thanks.
 
#32 ·
Update.
Got the Oil Pump off. Great.
Wanting to put everything back in now.
Car has 190K Miles. Oil Pump is original.
Should I go ahead and replace it?

Engine is stock 6.1 with a tune and exhaust. No plans for any power add-ons.

If it is a good idea to replace it? If it is, which brands to stay away from and how much do they run for?
Also, what replacement brands do you recommend?

Thanks.
What was your oil pressure at hot / idle?

I always go to my Dealer to purchase critical parts - like oil pumps and tensioner plate assemblies. For example, the integrity / consistency of the spring steel (alloys, hardening / tempering) used to stamp out the stacked leafs springs is critical for longevity (failure can lead to bent / broken intake valves).
 
#37 ·
In most cases my philosophy is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. A few exceptions though are anything that is difficult to replace and has lots of years/miles on it and I am in the area, I'll sometimes replace. Good example on my 5.7 Jeep (~110K on it) when I was putting long tube headers on it (a giant PITA) I went ahead and changed the starter with a new, not rebuilt unit. Putting long tubes on a Jeep is something you only want to do once, and then once you're done, you wonder why you did it. I guess, in hindsight, it was worth it though, but I certainly won't forget it.
 
#38 · (Edited)
My point is a brand new parts have zero reliability; whereas a serviceable part that has proven itself over time is - actually reliable. There is a cultured mindset within our hobby / sport / industry to wrongly replace parts, just for the sake of it, which is driven by industry / marketing / service operations / mindsets to spend money needlessly under the guise of "better to be safe than sorry" or worse "while you're in there."
 
#40 ·
The car has 190K Miles on it.
I've never thought about checking the oil pressure before I took it apart.

I did the timing set on it and bought these from the dealership, skipped on rock auto. Important parts of the engine I'll get them from the dealership.
So If I was going to change the oil pump, I'd get a good one, maybe OEM depending on the price, but certainly won't be getting the cheapest one I wanted to go that route.
 
#41 · (Edited)
The geroter pump design is practically indestructible as long as no metallic debris has been ingested. If the pump remains intact (very likely given screen mesh size on pickups) debris will scratch the side faces, increasing tolerances that slightly reduce dynamic operating pressure. Note that minimum acceptable service pressure @ hot / idle is ~5psi.
 
#52 ·
my 2006 srt8 magnum old psi is supposed to rest at 50psi and at wot its supposed to be 64 to 70 is mines isnt my psi fully warmed is at 20psi absolutely too low im starting to hear lifter taps summers here i stay in redlands can you please help me ive dumped almost 10k at trans and engine ecu I need your help
 
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