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  1. #1
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    Apr 2009
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    Tips on removing the rear differential

    Any tips? Almost seems like I'll need to grind down a shallow socket to get to the bolts facing the spare tire well. Even with that, just by looking at it, it seems like the bolts are longer than the space available.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    Pueblo West, Colorado
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    What year? I did my 2005 a few months ago, no need to grind anything. Get 2 socket wrenches, one on each bolt and back them out evenly. The whole swap took me about 3.5 hours by myself. The hardest part for me was getting it situated properly to get the axles out.

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  3. #3
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    Apr 2009
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    2008 Magnum. I'm a little confused. The bolts seem to be recessed in the I guess I'd call it a bushing. Also, its a big bolt 13/16 is the SAE equivalent which I'm trying to use on a 1/2" drive ratchet. Just seems like there is zero room.

  4. #4
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    Aug 2012
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    iowa
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    One side you have to use a RATCHETING WRENCH you can start both with a socket but on go so far.

    The bolts will not come out as it hits the tire well do as stated and go a little on esch side.
    As stated hardest part is getting the axles out. You have to drop it down and contort it.

    If you are reusing the diff get ne axle seals and then you can mangle them up to help getting the axles out and not have to worry about messing up a seal

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  5. #5
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    Dec 2016
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    You have to take out the vertical bolt first so the diff can move forward as you loosen the other two.

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  6. #6
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    Jan 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by us1champ View Post
    One side you have to use a RATCHETING WRENCH you can start both with a socket but on go so far.

    The bolts will not come out as it hits the tire well do as stated and go a little on esch side.
    As stated hardest part is getting the axles out. You have to drop it down and contort it.

    If you are reusing the diff get ne axle seals and then you can mangle them up to help getting the axles out and not have to worry about messing up a seal

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    I do recall actually using a ratcheting wrench on one side now that you mention it.

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Springfield, MO
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    It's a shallow socket 3\8s drive 21mm you use. Others are correct where it's a pain in the ass to get it out for the axles without undoing anything at the hub sides. Also a bitch getting it back up in there and lined up to not cross thread the bolts.best of luck. Use a tranny jack with a strap when getting it back up. Taking it down I wouldn't use the jack cause you need that clearance if all you're using is jack stands like I was when I did this job on my 08 rwd. You can get the socket from O'Reilly's. Might want to get the lowest profile socket wrench you can while you're there otherwise it'll probably get stuck in one of the wells after backing out the bolts some.
    Last edited by Ultimagic5; 09-09-2019 at 04:27 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    NH
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    I cheated and drilled two holes through my spare tire well so I could use a socket and ratchet. Put two thin aluminum patches over the holes with black silicon and hasn't leaked in years.
    2006 Charger Brilliant Black R/T w/R&T Package, 6.1 Arrington based 426 Hemi @ 13:1 compression 2016 Hellcat Charger rear cradle and brakes swap, DSS 4" custom driveshaft, 3.09 Scat Pack rear diff.
    Likes Jay Z, bednar1320, Ultimagic5 liked this post

  9. #9
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    Jan 2018
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    Pueblo West, Colorado
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    This is the one I used. I got lucky and they had a full set at work so I didn't have to buy one.

    https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Fl...75021975&psc=1

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Remove driveshaft and axles. Support rear. Remove front Allen bolt. Then take both back bolts out at the same time, the rear will move forward as the bolts are removed. That’s how I did it on my awd. Hope this helps.


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  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    You will need shallow sockets2 and have to put the sockets on the bolts first then attach the ratchets2.


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    Likes Ultimagic5 liked this post

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Charlotte NC
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    Frankly the sheet metal for the spare tire well is the thinnest metal on the whole car. You literally can push it out of your way for clearance with your hand. When you are finished pop the trunk....take out the tire and push the tire well back into shape. But even with that said you are going to remove the front pinion bolt first and the carrier will walk forward as you remove the two rear bolts anyways some. When I did my GETRAG swap the biggest pain for me was removing the front pinion bolt and installing the new bolt and upper bushing.
    [/SIGPIC]2005 Chrysler 300C SBE, ported big valved heads, Hellcat lifters, SRT 6.1 intake manifold, SRT shorties, custom grind Billy Drakeford cam, SLP LM1, MTCM and GETRAG 3.06 swap.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckWagon View Post
    I cheated and drilled two holes through my spare tire well so I could use a socket and ratchet. Put two thin aluminum patches over the holes with black silicon and hasn't leaked in years.
    This is exactly what I was thinking about doing.

  14. #14
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    Jun 2013
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    Just posting as a guide if need be this sat when my 3.91 goes in

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    I just did this 3 weeks ago. It seems some cars might have the cradle mounted further back than others. Theres no way I could fit anything in there to get the two back bolts. And I don't remember having any room to get to the nut for the allen bolt.

    So I followed the FSM and dropped the rear of the cradle, leaving the front bolts alone so it stayed aligned.

    To get the axles out without ruining the steel dust shields on the axle side, I clamped a big C-Clamp on the CV O.D. and pried on that.

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