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  1. #1
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    Jun 2012
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    LX MY Supercharged 3.5l Chrysler 300 (4.0L STROKER)

    ~~~WARNING POST IS PICTURE HEAVY~~~
    (Consolidating all threads into one build log. Also adding some new stuff)



    First off thank you for taking a look at my thread, hope you
    like what you see.

    SO I've got a Supercharged 3.5l Chrysler 300. Performance Mods are as follows:


    PERFORMANCE

    o JBA Shorty Headers
    o Custom Mandrel Bent True Dual Exhaust
    o Straight Piped Converters
    o SRT 4 Injectors (577)
    o 3-Bar Map Sensor
    o Platinum NKG Spark Plugs
    o Ported Throttle body
    o True Cold Air Intake (Mounted in Bumper area)
    o Custom FMIC (Front Mounted Intercooler) Setup
    o Upgraded PowerDyne Supercharger (The Super-PowerDyne rebuild by 928 Motorsports raises impeller speeds to 46,000 from 36,000. Its' supposed produce 20% more power across the board from stock).
    o Sur-Grip Coated Supercharger Pulley (dropped from 3" to 2.75").
    o GT500 Belt Tensioner
    o GT500 SuperCharger Idler Pulley
    o Gates RPM Micro-V Belt
    o Custom Transmission Oil Cooler Setup
    o Dual BT Catch Can Setup
    o 3.91 Gears
    o 42RLE to NAG1 (W5A580) Transmission Swap
    o FTI Performance ESRT8300 Stall Converter
    o Mopar Performance Transmission Contol Module

    SUSPENSION & HANDLING
    o Billet Tech Strut Tower Cover
    o Mopar Performance Sway Bars
    o Mopar Performance Track Pack Suspension
    o Mopar Performance Strut Tower Brace
    o Pursuit Big Brake Conversion (14.3"/13.8" rotors. Dual Piston Calipers)

    AUDIO
    o Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
    o Fully Upgraded 10” DC Audio M2 XL Subwoofer
    o DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
    o Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
    o Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
    o Oversized CCA SkyHigh Car Audio Speaker wire
    o Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box (Tuned to 32hz)
    o Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
    o MechMan 240a High Output Alternator
    o Upgraded Electrical With oversized 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
    o XS Power D3400 (with 6 Spot SHCA Battery Terminals)
    EXTERIOR
    o Paint Job (Cool Vanilla with Copper Pearl)
    o 2008 SRT8 300 Front Fascia
    o Grip Grille with (Custom Modded 2010 Chrysler 300 "s" Wing Emblem)
    o 20" Brass Monkey HellCat Rims with Toyo Proxes 4 Plus (Staggered 315/35 & 275/40)
    o Custom TruFiber Challanger Style Hood (Custom added mad eyes)
    o Custom 2010 GT500 Style Rear Spoiler
    o Custom 2014 SRT8 300 Rear Diffuse
    o Custom Rear Roof Spoiler
    o Chrome OEM Handles
    o Chrome OEM Mirrors
    o 2014 300 Style Chrome Head Lights
    o

    INTERIOR
    o 2006 Chrysler 300 Heritage Front Seats
    o Diablosport Tinity T2 EX
    o 2008 Chrysler 300 SRT8 Cluster Swap
    o Mopar Analong Boost Gauge (Custom Mounted to Clock Area)
    o AEM AFR Digital Gauge


    A ton of money over the years... LOL I don't really care at this point. BUT basically I'm going for the vehicle to some of have the best options available with out going over board. Meaning i wanted to go with a single 10" sub not 2 15's. I went with staggered 20's not 24's. Anyways I'm trying to explain how I'm not going overboard with this re-build? While at the same time listing a list of parts on a V6 that is CLEARLY over killed.

    Current mods that are being done are as follows:

    o Inertia Motorsports 3.5l HO 1.2v Camshafts
    o Inertia Motorsports 3.5l HO V6 Premium Big Valve Performance Heads
    o Inertia Motorsports 3.5l HO V6 Ported Lower Intake
    o 2008 4.0L Dodge Nitro Engine Swap
    o Custom EGR Delete
    o Custom CNCd Lower Intake Manifold Spacer
    o TranZformer Shift Kit
    o NoWeeds Exhaust Diverter System





    • GT500 Belt Tensioner
    • Gates RPM Micro-V Belt
    • Custom Transmission Oil Cooler Setup
    • Dual BT Catch Can Setup
    • 3.91 Gears
    • 42RLE VLP to NAG1 (W5A580) Transmission Swap
    • 2015 Charger Pursuit package BIG BRAKE Upgrade. (Dual Piston Calipers vented 14.5" front rotors and 13.8" rear rotors)



    AUDIO

    • Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
    • Fully Upgraded 10” DC Audio M2 XL Subwoofer
    • DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp ) Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
    • Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
    • Oversized CCA SkyHigh Car Audio Speaker wire
    • Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box (Tuned to 32hz). Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
    • Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
    • MechMan 240a High Output Alternator
    • Upgraded Electrical With oversized 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
    • PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery
    • XS Power D3400 (with 6 Spot SHCA Battery Terminals)


    EXTERIOR

    • 2008 SRT8 300 Front Fascia
    • Grip Grille with (Custom Modded 2010 Chrysler 300 "s" Wing Emblem)
    • 20” Chrome SRT8 Challanger Replicas
    • Custom TruFiber Challanger Style Hood (added mad eyes)
    • Custom 2010 GT500 Style Rear Spoiler
    • Custom 2014 SRT8 300 Rear Diffuser
    • Custom Rear Roof Spoiler
    • Chrome OEM Handles
    • Chrome OEM Mirrors
    • 2014 300 Style Chrome Head Lights
    • Billet Tech Strut Tower Cover
    • Mopar Performance Sway Bars
    • Mopar Performance Track Pack Suspension
    • Mopar Performance Strut Tower Brace



    Currently Pending Mods


    • Mopar Performance TCM
    • FTI 3000 Stall Converter
    • Inertia Motorsports 3.5L HO V1.2 Camshaft


    • Inertia Motorsports 3.5L HO V6 Premium Big Valve Performance Heads
    • Inertia Motorsports 3.5L HO V6 Ported Lower Intake
    • 2008 4.0L Dodge Nitro Engine
    • Custom CNC'd Lower Intake Manifold Spacer
    • Custom EGR Delete
    • New Style LED Bar Tail Lights
    • TranZformer Shift Kit
    • NoWeeds Exhaust Diverter System



    ~~~NEWEST UPDATE ON PAGE 3; POSTS #39 & #40~~~










    Last edited by sojiaraggs9000; 02-12-2020 at 01:23 PM.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Texas
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    OK so I have a 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited which I bought back
    in December of 2011.

    Here are a few pics of it at the dealership







    It has a really nice tan leather interior with a light wood
    grain. Which Im told is apparently rare and no one can tell me the name of the
    color.







    Here are a few up close pictures of the woodgrain










    Then came the mods. tasteful, not over the top. Its not 100%
    done yet but Im going for a beefy / sporty look. All I lack is a SRT 8 front
    lip, trunk lip and AAC Halos. MAYBE some stripes. The mods consist of: Grip
    Grille with a custom modded 2010 Chrysler 300 "s" Wing Emblem (silver Chrysler
    ribbons rather than the OEM gold ones, 20" Chrome Challenger rims, Chrome
    Handles, Chrome Mirrors, Darker window tint.


















    Then I finnal got my exhaust done. Custom mandrel bent dual
    exhaust consisting of single FlowMaster Super 40 and 2 4" chrome resonated tips.
    I'll get some underbody pictures next time I lift it up on the rack at work.





    Last edited by sojiaraggs9000; 07-02-2019 at 04:33 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Texas
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    A few minor mods where added. WeatherTech FloorLiner floor
    mats. These things are great. I live in west Texas... dust, dirt rocks and all
    kinds of wild **** get tracked into my car on a daily basis. These mats help
    protect my carpet as well and make clean up a snap. Not to mention these mats
    looks great as well. There are only 2 down sides... One, they only come in 3
    colors (Beige , Light Grey and Black). And Two, they cost $99 per set
    (pair)


    Front






    Rear






    Anyway, I finally got my car back and my car audio build kicked
    up again. Im going for more of a SQL build this time around. The setup is one DC
    XL m2 10" on a DC 2.0k (1 ohm final load) It has an 8 speaker bose factory
    system ,u-connect and sirrus radio. That being said, I didn't want to mess with
    the factory speakers just yet. Add a RF BLD (3Sixty.2) to beable to add the sub
    stage for now. Anyway, this is what I came up with;





    The reason for the baffle being that way is so that it can be
    flush mounted to the mini-wall. Which will seal it all off from the trunk area.
    Here are the specs: (inches)


    Volume
    12" H * 10" W * 29.5" D = 1.44618� ft


    Port
    10.5" H * 2" W = 21in� with a port length of 33.625" (which is
    about 33hz)


    Sub will only get rated power @ 1 ohm off the DC 2.0k so with
    the Volume of 1.44618� ft - .13402� ft of 45s and port displacement - .18� ft of
    sub displacement. The sub should be seeing 1.13216� ft after displacement.


    Sorry that I didn't take any pics of actual "building" but I got
    in the zone and didn't stop. Plus my camera was with my relatives that when on
    vacation BUT it turned out better than I expected.
    Upgraded all the stock wires with Knu Flex 1/0. I need to
    upgrade the stock battery eventually.





    Added a run of Knu Flex 1/0 from the alt to the battery.






    I found a stock grommet that allowed me access to the engine
    bay.





    Haha finally got my DC XL m2 10" with all the fixin's in. Rusty
    even signed it for me. I couldn't wait to slap it in!!. Took these pics whith my
    cell phone while at work.







    So then I got my DC 2.0k in finally. And It looked sick!






    Last edited by sojiaraggs9000; 07-02-2019 at 04:38 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    I added a plexi glass back to the DC 2.0K.
















    I then added holes for air flow.












    Then I added 2 PC fans to the plexi-glass back for even more
    airflow.











    I was going to go this route with the trunk but I eneded up not
    liking the over all look. Plus I wanted to show off the plexi back.








    I also scratched the red port idea.








    This ended up being a much better route. It gave the trunk some
    much needed sex appeal.








    Added a plexiglass back, drilled holes and added 2 70 mm fans
    for better airflow.





    The left fuse goes from the XS D3100 to the DC 2.0k. The right
    fuse goes from the XS D3100 to stock battery. (I even left room for dual inputs
    in the future)





    With the way I mounted the XS D3100 I can still gain access to
    the stock battery with ease.




    Last edited by sojiaraggs9000; 07-02-2019 at 04:39 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Orland Park IL
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    sounds cool, what are the 1/4 mile times?
    bill

    2007 BB Charger SRT8
    Airaid CAI, 180 Tstat, BT Catch Can, D1S HID headlight conversion, red led interior swap, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, MTCM, 3.73 getrag, six speed motor mounts, Lakewood 70/30 front shocks w/ V6 springs and 50/50s in back, SRT Max Plus, Paramount 55series Nag1 and torque converter, CTP solid cradle bushings
    285/35 R20 Michelin Pilot Supersports all 4 wheels
    28" hoosier slicks, MH racemaster skinnies.
    Tuned by Tim @ MPH. 403 RWHP, 402 TQ.
    [email protected], 1.762 60' 620 DA

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Texas
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    Little bit of an update. added a few more mods. ( SRT8 Front
    Fascia, SRT8 Style Trunk Lip, Show-n-Go License Plate Bracket, Red Fender
    Stripes and Painted the Calipers to match. ) Tell me what you guys think of the
    stripes.






























  7. #7
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    Jun 2012
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    And now the box which is sealed off from the trunk. I hate rattling trunks. (the flash makes the carpet's color more dramatic than it really is)









    Here are some pics without flash in the sun light.





    Oh yeah and here is what it looks like behind the trunk wall. there is another wall right behind it with 2 x 4's spacing it apart. the amp fits right in between them 2 x 4's. I recycled a 1/4" "pecans for sale" sign to make my trunk wall.. its good wood so sue me haha.....






  8. #8
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    Jun 2012
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    I added factory trunk carpet to the trunk lid. Makes it 100 times better in my opinion.



    Little bit of an update. added a few more mods. ( SRT8 Front Fascia, SRT8 Style Trunk Lip, Show-n-Go License Plate Bracket, Red Fender Stripes and Painted the Calipers to match. )





















  9. #9
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    Jun 2012
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    West Texas
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    I ditched the DC 2.0k and replaced it with a DC 3.5k with dual inputs. Re-did the trunk wall and added Plexiglas backing to the DC 3.5k. I also added cooling fans to the wall. Mainly because I couldn't fit any fans on the DC 3.5k itself. Took out my Factory 750cca battery and but my XS D3100 in its place. As well as adding five Exide deep cycle batteries (same tech as optima just different patents)

    How the trunk usually looks with my tool kit in it



    without tool kit



    amp guts shots




    Fuse holders for the positive dual inputs leads ( close to amp )



    negative and positive dual inputs (leading to the battery bank below)



    cooling fans



    I didn't pull any punches this time around electrical wise. haha....... As you can see I added five Exide spiral tech deep cycle batteries (same tech as optima, just different patents). Each negative and positive has two 1/0 leads going to and from each post. I beat the spare tire area flat and Great Stuff foamed them into place. That black thing in between the bottom to batteries is a piece of leather. The negative and positive there are kinda close so I just put it there "just in case".



    The black wire on the Positive side of the XS D3100 is the 1/0 Knukonceptz running to the alternator. The light red one next to that is the factory 1/0 that also runs to the front of the car and splits off before the alternator. ( Don't worry about that black tape lol.. its just temporary.. The D3100 sits a little high its just for safety. I'm working on something more permanent.)



    The battery bank starts at the top right hand Exide battery (positive and negative are rand from that battery to the D3100) and ends at the bottom right battery which is also where the amp dual inputs are as well. ( I didn't fuse any of the batteries due to them being so close.. That should be fine yeah? Or should I at least fuse near the D3100 and the Exide?) There are two fuses on the alternator lol... Don't worry.





    I also replaced my Stock alternator with a MechMan 240a alternator. According to the testing paper it does "142a at low rpm speeds and 252a at high rpm speeds." I could defiantly tell the difference as soon as I started the vehicle. The alternator on my 300 is on the bottom.. No worries, I have a car lift at work at my disposal muhahahahaha.







    Also when I was re-doing the system I locked myself out of my trunk.... So I had to kick the front side of the box to get into the trunk and pop the trunk lid. Which in turn broke and I had to redo the front side of the box and the mini-wall. I'll get pictures of it later today. It needs to be re-sealed but I ran out of great stuff. Ill re-do that this weekend. Either way the single DC 10" m2 XL defiantly gets down. Quite a bit difference in loudness as well.







  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    We'll I got my hood in and been working on it. Got the custom eyelids moulded onto the hood. Did a little reshaping and test fitting last night. Seems to be coming along smoothly.


    During the first test fit their was quite a bit off. So I had to sand down a bit on the eyelids.











    Then I popped it on the hood to do a tad bit of test fitting. every thing line up pretty nicely after that.











    Then I slapped some more kitty hair on the back of the eyelids to add strength. Now to let that dry and sand it later today.











    I'm one of them type of people that over think things a lot.. lol. I have to have it perfect and I have to know how what it will look like haha.That being said I got a small update tonight. Did some more work on the eyelids.



    I got on the sander a bit too much on the passanger side. Thats' ok. fiberglass and resine to the rescue!!

    Looks ugly at the moment but don't you worry it will come around






    NOW for the Driver's side. Damn near perfect if I do say so myself.












  11. #11
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    Jun 2012
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    Did some more sanding, trimming and smoothing out over the weekend. I think I got it pretty smooth haha. only issues I noticed was the corner near the eye on the left needs smoothed out.





















    OK so yesterday after a little more smoothing things out... I cleaned the bottom side off and Degreased/DEwaxed it. Then ran a terry cloth over it to prep for paint!









    PAINT!! OH Snap... its on. Painted just the bottom side. Will do the top side today after work.









    And while I was at it I also painted some of my under the hood bling... haha...









    strut mount covers









    Modded Infinity G35 engine cover... its gunna look sick with its 100% done. It had an oil fill hole that didn't line up to my 3.5L but I took care of that by filling it in. I also filled in the Infinity emblem. Im still debating over paint the "v6 3.5" torch red or gloss black. Also Im debating over painting the raised section of the cover black. Keep in mind, the hash marks will be torch red. What are your guys thoughts??









    sexy all coolant tank!!








    Top side was painted today at lunch by my buddy. I came over and snapped a quick picture.



    I got off work a little bit late so sorry for the night time pictures... Ill get some better ones tomorrow. **** looks mean tho haha. Also I decided against painting the stripes.. just in case I ever want to take them off. Ill be getting some new vinyl stripes applied.




    I got most of my under the hood bling installed as well.





    Still need to decide if i want the factory fuse box cover painted or not.



    Eww... my coolant bottle looks terrible.

    But not to worry!! This one will be going in as soon as my stainless lines come in. Fresh coolant, new lines and new sexy coolant tank!




    Last edited by sojiaraggs9000; 07-02-2019 at 05:11 PM.

  12. #12
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    Here are a few better shots with my camera and a new video is uploading as we speak.













    I also finally finished sealing up the front of my box.













  13. #13
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    Jun 2012
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    Ok so I finally upgraded my stock speakers. I decided to go with some Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs. Fronts are TS-D1702C and the rears TS-D1702R.



    I got this powering my front and rear speakers. Its a Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 mini amp. Pretty powerful for as small as it is haha.







    Here are the fronts TS-D1702C. Pretty solid set of speakers for the price.




    Now compare them them my stock 6x9's haha...

    This is how I snaked my wire through the molex connector. Coat hangers and electrical tape ftw.



    The rears are TS-D1702R and they'r pretty nice. They're 6 3/4" as well.



    Last edited by sojiaraggs9000; 07-02-2019 at 05:37 PM.

  14. #14
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    Jun 2012
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    I got the fronts TS-D1702C wired up and mounted.











    Mounted the the tweets in the sail area on the doors.














    I mounted the Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 mini amp behind the trunk wall. Looks like a bit of a cluster but it works for now lol.














    I ditched the stock Head unit for a Nice SQ deck. Its an Eclipse CD3200. Looks sexy and works great. Tested it with my DD-1 and maxed out at 80 its gets a clean undistorted signal.












  15. #15
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    Jun 2012
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    Well i got the supercharger back from paint. I must say it does looks good all assembled. Painted it cool vanilla to match the car.





    OK I decided to go ahead and tackle this install this weekend. Im still waiting on a few other things to go with an intercooler setup but for now Ill just install the kit as intended. I already have a true cai so I didn't need to uninstall the air box assembly. So I started with taking the plenum off.






    I made sure to cover the intake with some rags so that dirt and debris wouldn't fall off into the engine. I held the plenum up and out of the way with a ratchet strap. That way I could start tackling the spark plugs and injectors.




    Got the old plugs out and for only 58k on the clock it had some nasty ass plugs!!



    Out with the old and in with the new NGK plugs! I gaped these to .032 peR what Brent Hughes suggested.



    If your worried about torque specs grab yourself one of these handy devices. I love it, no more guess work.


    Next I took out the fuel rail and got ready to swap out the injectors.



    SRT4 injectors



    I took all the old one off.....





    Then I installed the SRT4 injectors.






    I then buttoned it all back up and installed the new 3 bar map sensor.














    Once that was all done I took out the stock radiator reservoir.









    Next I installed the relocation tank and ran all the hoses.







    OK SO....... I got it all back together. Here are some pics. Only thing that is missing is a few BT goodies but that will come later on.





    Also here are a few minor additions I've made. (Plates and a couple stickers) The car was a bit dirty.. So don't mind the dirt. All the stickers are made of reflective vinyl... So at night with the light hits them they reflect. Kind of like cop car decals





    I custom made these "Chrsyler 300" logos to mimic the looks of the old script emblems.


    Last edited by sojiaraggs9000; 07-02-2019 at 05:51 PM.

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