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Thread: Battery issue

  1. #1
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    Battery issue

    My key fobs didn't work today.

    Opened the hood and put a booster on the front, and was able to open the trunk. My trusty 10 year old trickle charger was hot. Put the 10 amp on the battery and it's pulling a full 10 amps. I noticed the battery has a 02/10 date on it.
    Either the trickle charger died or the 9 year old battery did. Either way, a good run in both.
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  2. #2
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    Time for a new battery. You're lucky you're in a warmer climate, otherwise your batteries wouldn't last near that long.
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  3. #3
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    I replaced my OE battery at almost 10 yrs as preventive maintenance. It still worked. The replacement Advance Auto Parts AGM battery is now coming up on 5 yrs old.

  4. #4
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    If its a typical trickle charger that is constantly applying low current, it'll sulfate the plates.

    Sounds like a constant-current unit and the winding insulation within the drop-down transformer has failed and has begun to short to each other. On the output side to the battery, this sets up a soft short which drains the battery killing it.

    The only trickle chargers worth their salt are what are termed burst-mode. They monitor state-of-charge. When battery voltage falls below a certain threshold, the charger applies 10+A until nominal V is (again) reached, then shuts down entirely. What is bothersome is the battery charger industry knows this...and continues to peddle constant-current units. This, in-turn, drives more battery sales :^(
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    If its a typical trickle charger that is constantly applying low current, it'll sulfate the plates.

    Sounds like a constant-current unit and the winding insulation within the drop-down transformer has failed and has begun to short to each other. On the output side to the battery, this sets up a soft short which drains the battery killing it.

    The only trickle chargers worth their salt are what are termed burst-mode. They monitor state-of-charge. When battery voltage falls below a certain threshold, the charger applies 10+A until nominal V is (again) reached, then shuts down entirely. What is bothersome is the battery charger industry knows this...and continues to peddle constant-current units. This, in-turn, drives more battery sales :^(
    Are there any trickle chargers you recommend?


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHARKY 370 View Post
    Are there any trickle chargers you recommend?


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    I don't use / believe they are required, so I'd be looking same as you.

    Winter means I disconnect the battery while it remains in the vehicle (room temp garage) and I check the voltage with a DVM when I remember. If low, I connect a proper smart charger that charges at 20A that reduces as full voltage is reached. I disconnect and forget about it until I remember again. Point is, I still have the original battery in there since 2004-10-22. If the vehicle is outside and subject to sub-zero temps, the smart thing to do is remove the battery and store it at a constant temperature. This last point is important as temperature swings increase and decrease internal resistance. It is this ongoing delta that accelerates the rate of discharge.

    Vehicles that are only driven periodically, stop fretting and leave the battery alone! Average sleep mode current consumption is <30mA. Do the math...it takes a very long time to discharge.

    Oh ya; when stored for the winter; one of thee worst things one can do to their ride is to periodically start it up and let it "warm up". Really bad idea!




    Trickle charging kills lead acid batteries.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 06-11-2019 at 11:22 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post

    Oh ya; when stored for the winter; one of thee worst things one can do to their ride is to periodically start it up and let it "warm up". Really bad idea!
    I can see how the chill of Winter in cowtown can damage a vehicle if it's not driven regularly...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by richierevs View Post
    I can see how the chill of Winter in cowtown can damage a vehicle if it's not driven regularly...
    More the damage that occurs when parked / stored cars are fired up under the misnotion that its somehow "good for the engine".
    Last edited by Hemissary; 06-12-2019 at 10:25 AM.



  9. #9
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    ANYTIME I drive ANY of my vehicles, no matter where I am going, I'll drive it anywhere from 5-10 miles to make sure everything gets fully warmed up. I know it's probably a waste of fuel, time, etc., but it's a lot cheaper than the cost of maintenance to repair them. Besides, I love to drive these beasts. On the other side of this, if I lived in the snow belt, in the winter I'd probably have to rethink this philosophy. Neither of the LX's are ever out when there's snow on the ground though.

  10. #10
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    My 2008 Magnum sits outside all the time here in Missouri. In the middle of winter it will take almost thirty miles for the oil and transmission fluid to come to operating temperature. I changed the battery at nine years as I really didn't want to get stranded somewhere. It was working fine at the time.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnuman View Post
    ANYTIME I drive ANY of my vehicles, no matter where I am going, I'll drive it anywhere from 5-10 miles to make sure everything gets fully warmed up. I know it's probably a waste of fuel, time, etc., but it's a lot cheaper than the cost of maintenance to repair them. Besides, I love to drive these beasts. On the other side of this, if I lived in the snow belt, in the winter I'd probably have to rethink this philosophy. Neither of the LX's are ever out when there's snow on the ground though.
    I had a repair shop for years under the table; when I asked why-oh-why did they keep driving it their vehicles - after it became patently obvious something was wrong - the excuses were many and varied. Reading them the riot act changed little :^(

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve65301 View Post
    My 2008 Magnum sits outside all the time here in Missouri. In the middle of winter it will take almost thirty miles for the oil and transmission fluid to come to operating temperature. I changed the battery at nine years as I really didn't want to get stranded somewhere. It was working fine at the time.
    With the battery within the confines of the vehicle, as opposed to the significantly harsher environment under the hood, our batteries do last a very long time as a result. Getting a replacement battery from the Dealership, as opposed to anywhere else, means you are getting similar quality and durability that is hand's-down superior to any aftermarket battery. Note there are now only two (possibly three) flooded / lead acid battery Manufacturers on this continent, only one has sterling reputation. East Penn. East Penn supplies FCA's batteries for new vehicles.

    Always ask where the rebranded battery you are buying was made. If its anything other than East Penn (they have factories in both Canada and the US), walk away.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 06-13-2019 at 01:41 PM.

  12. #12
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    East Penn from Canada?
    I get them from the source, Pennsylvania haha


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  13. #13
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    East Penn Manufacturing | World-class battery manufacturing facilities

    East Penn Manufacturing | Contact Us

    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    If its anything other than East Penn from Canada, walk away.
    Spewing bull**** and impressing dumbasses.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay727 View Post
    Pst. They do have plants in Ontario.


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBL.DWN View Post
    Pst. They do have plants in Ontario.


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    Psst...theres nothing special aboot the canadian plant.

    PS I'm an aerospace engineer so everything I say is more right than whatever anyone else says.

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