Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 53

Thread: getrag swap

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Some road North of Nashville
    Posts
    543
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ENUF PWR View Post
    I have a few specs..
    From the 2009 Service Manual

    DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs.
    BOLT/NUT - SHAFT COUPLER-TO-TRANSMISSION 91 67
    BOLT/NUT - SHAFT COUPLER-TO-REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY 122 89
    BOLT/NUT - COUPLER/DAMPER-TO-PROPELLER SHAFT (REAR) 91 67
    BOLT - CENTER BEARING-TO-BODY (REAR) 27 20

    Rear Axle Front Mount 65 48
    Axle-to-Crossmember Bolts 220 162
    Noting these specs, if you use 6 pink bolts rather than the 3 bolts that come with 392 coupler and 3 pink bolts, looks like 6 pinks at spec of 89ft lbs. Does that sound right for the overkill crowd?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,362
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ENUF PWR View Post
    I would have liked to do the subframe bushings and diff bushings but the added cost would have put me over $1k for the install. + The added noise of polyurethane mounts on the rear cradle is something I wasn't sure of. I may add cradle inserts that BMR carry. They can be installed w/o removal of the OEM bushings.
    How did yours look when you removed subframe? How do you feel about doing that job again if you add those bushings? I'm right there with ya. I'm at 12 or 1300 with my getrag but I only went used getrag and driveshaft. Everything thing else is OEM NEW

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    1,016
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Z View Post
    How did yours look when you removed subframe? How do you feel about doing that job again if you add those bushings? I'm right there with ya. I'm at 12 or 1300 with my getrag but I only went used getrag and driveshaft. Everything thing else is OEM NEW
    The cost of the bushings $200 + $500 to install them was my decision factor.
    Being I daily mine I really wouldn't want to deal with the added noise of poly mounts. I have a full rear adj. Arm kit that has delerin bushings and it was noisy. It's finally broken in after about 2yrs and the noise has decreased dramatically. I would only use Pedders poly as I've used it before on previous cars with no increase in noise. My car is a southern car so the bushings still looked good. But the subframe is the achilles heel of the rear suspension and will definitely show improvements in handling if upgrading. If you replace use really good bushing lube. Also if I'm going that far in I would get a 09+ subframe to replace the 1st Gen one.
    Last edited by ENUF PWR; 09-02-2019 at 10:49 AM.

    06 SRTC
    - SPC - Hellwig/Police Sways - BC Coils/Swift Springs - Drake FSB - LMI CF CAI - Corsa Extreme - 08+ Black Leather Int. Conv. - 2010 SRT Charger Interior - Hurst - 91 Tune - MTCM - SRT Night 20X9/10 Wheels - JBA high flow cats - 3.91 Getrag - HC 6 Pot - LED OEM Tail Conv. - Sponh Arms - BT Bling - Chrome Delete -
    Likes Jay Z liked this post

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,362
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow that's really an interesting point. Buy 09 cradle and install the bushings myself regardless of time. Then drop one out and one better in. I like it. I guess it's a direct swap from what I've read somewhere before...?
    Likes hotrod1 liked this post

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    1,016
    Post Thanks / Like
    The 09-13 cradle is reinforced better than the 05-08. It's a direct swap. I think in 14+ is when they switched to the zf trans so the getrag was no longer used. (it might be 15 but I would play it safe and get no newer than a 13 rear cradle just to be safe)

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Colorado Springs Colorado
    Posts
    1,330
    Post Thanks / Like
    The 15+ cradles themselves are also a direct swap, but the ZF diff has different mounting points and will not work with the Getrag components. ZFs are closed units and do not have the ability to change gears... The whole diff must be swapped and ratios are very limited.

    Sent from my LG-G710 using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    MODS: AIRAID cai, Heartthrob cat back, Diablo 91 CAI, 180 T-stat, BT Catch can
    Thanks Jay Z thanked for this post
    Likes ENUF PWR liked this post

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    14,164
    Post Thanks / Like
    The two sub frame bushings that support the differentials are hard to compromise. Inspect them; insert a HD screw and flex them looking for rubber degradation.



    I anyone wants to save a few bucks, I have a set of rear bushings as well as an HHP solid rear pinion support bushing.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels

    Likes Jay Z, ENUF PWR liked this post

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,362
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good looking out^

    About to order me a used Subframe and was told there is a different part number for 5.7 and 6.4 options.... Any insight?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    14,164
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Z View Post
    Good looking out^

    About to order me a used Subframe and was told there is a different part number for 5.7 and 6.4 options.... Any insight?
    Can't answer Jay; I can't imagine a single difference. I had no difficulties with the unit I installed that was technically out of an Apache-equipped platform (in fact it was a Challenger).

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,362
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Can't answer Jay; I can't imagine a single difference. I had no difficulties with the unit I installed that was technically out of an Apache-equipped platform (in fact it was a Challenger).
    All i needed to hear! 6.4 challenger SRT8 subframe confirmed. Gotta make a call

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,362
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well my subframe I ordered from LKQ came in a little damaged then closer look ALL subframe bushings were cracked/busted so def not using that. Of course not another one can be found.

    Side note.... Putting 75-140 Royal Purple w friction mod additive in after new diff is installed but feel dumb bc if this fluid already has Friction mod, Do i really need to buy OEM friction mod?



  12. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Some road North of Nashville
    Posts
    543
    Post Thanks / Like
    If it's truly a Getrag, it's LSD. You can get a complete axle swap from Cleveland Power and Performance including the getrag. Just be sure it's a getrag.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    14,164
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Z View Post
    Well my subframe I ordered from LKQ came in a little damaged then closer look ALL subframe bushings were cracked/busted so def not using that. Of course not another one can be found.

    Side note.... Putting 75-140 Royal Purple w friction mod additive in after new diff is installed but feel dumb bc if this fluid already has Friction mod, Do i really need to buy OEM friction mod?
    No. In fact you don't need the friction modifier. All it is there for is to reduce chatter from the clutch assemblies during tight / low speed turns. This issue is more to do with drivers being overly concerned about the noise they hear than any sort of damage occurring as the clutch plates grab / release / grab etcetera.

    I tell folks not to put in friction modifier because it adversely affects clutch performance during, for example, burn-outs when one wheel has enough traction to overcome the LSD system and cause one wheel to spin. Once that spinning commences, the friction modifier does its job by allowing that particular assembly to continue(!) to slip!

    In very short order, one or both clutch assemblies are toasted. Don't use friction modifier in Getrag differentials. If the clutch assemblies chatter during tight turns at slow speed...so what.

    What is the reason for using Royal Purple 75-140?
    Last edited by Hemissary; 09-12-2019 at 11:14 AM.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Some road North of Nashville
    Posts
    543
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    No. In fact you don't need the friction modifier. All it is there for is to reduce chatter from the clutch assemblies during tight / low speed turns where slip[page is most prevalent. This supposed "issue" as more to do with drivers being overly concerned about the noise they hear than any sort of damage occurring as the clutch plates grab / release / grab etcetera.

    I tell folks not to put in friction modifier because it adversely affects clutch performance during, for example, burn-outs when one wheel has enough traction to overcome the LSD system and cause one wheel to spin. Once that spinning commences, the friction modifier does its job by allowing that particular assembly to continue(!) to slip!

    In very short order, one or both clutch assemblies are toasted. Don't use friction modifier in Getrag differentials. If the clutch assemblies chatter during tight turns at slow speed...so what.

    What is the reason for using Royal Purple 75-140?
    He probably (like me) initially read that was the spec somewhere, when it's supposed to be 75W90. There's folks using a 75W115 which if you give it some though would be dead nuts middle between the two.
    Likes Jay Z liked this post

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    14,164
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by thor363 View Post
    He probably (like me) initially read that was the spec somewhere, when it's supposed to be 75W90. There's folks using a 75W115 which if you give it some though would be dead nuts middle between the two.
    My point I'm trying to make goes back to the misnomer if a little is good a lot must be better.

    The required specification...IS the required specification. The system was designed by a bunch of Engineers - around that spec.

    Reminds me of the touchie-feelie who think a higher viscosity engine oil is somehow better for their engine...even worse if they wrongly believe a higher oil pressure reading on a gauge is somehow also(!) better protecting their pride and joy...it ain't.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 09-11-2019 at 03:26 PM.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •