Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 69

Thread: getrag swap

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Some road North of Nashville
    Posts
    573
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    My point I'm trying to make goes back to the misnomer if a little is good a lot must be better.

    The required specification...IS the required specification. The system was designed by a bunch of Engineers - around that spec.

    Reminds me of the touchie-feelie who think a higher viscosity engine oil is somehow better for their engine...even worse if they wrongly believe a higher oil pressure reading on a gauge is somehow also(!) better protecting their pride and joy...it ain't.
    LOL Simon! I never mind a clutch style rear letting me know that it 'is what it is'. I'd rather that than adding friction modifier to a noisy diff just to waste the clutches. As for the 115 I'm not using it, I just mentioned it was out there.
    Likes Hemissary liked this post



  2. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    15,395
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by thor363 View Post
    LOL Simon! I never mind a clutch style rear letting me know that it 'is what it is'. I'd rather that than adding friction modifier to a noisy diff just to waste the clutches. As for the 115 I'm not using it, I just mentioned it was out there.
    Did I miss something?? :^)

    To clairify; no friction modifier required for 210 / 215mm cast iron non-LSD diffs. I'm stating no friction modifier is required for Getrag units cause its an NVH issue.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  3. #48
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    532
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Z View Post

    Side note.... Putting 75-140 Royal Purple w friction mod additive in after new diff is installed but feel dumb bc if this fluid already has Friction mod, Do i really need to buy OEM friction mod?
    Why the 75-140? I'm running straight 75W-90 without any added friction modifier in my GETRAG swap. Also fill it before you get it up into the car....much easier.
    2005 Chrysler 300C 5.7 SBE, ported big valved heads, 784ac lifters, SRT 6.1 intake manifold, SRT shorties, custom grind Billy Drakeford cam, SLP LM1, MTCM and GETRAG 3.06 swap.
    Thanks Jay Z thanked for this post
    Likes Hemissary liked this post

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    15,395
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by 4DoorMuscle View Post
    Why the 75-140? I'm running straight 75W-90 without any added friction modifier in my GETRAG swap. Also fill it before you get it up into the car....much easier.
    ^^^This is what I'm say'in :^)

    Important; matches specs. Friction modifier satisfies only those who want to believe that the noise - if they ever heard it - which in this case harmless - is tantamount to some sort of serious problem. It ain't...in fact it adds to clutch pack failure when deliberately trying, for whatever reason, to break the rear tires loose :^)

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Whoaaaaaaa. Thank you Simon for the correction. I got 75-140 by spec but then again I was thinking my stock 3.06 was 75-140. And also use RP ONLY in the diff bc it has served me well with current car and previous 2 car's with no rear end issues. Returning these to oreillys as we speak
    Likes Hemissary liked this post

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ok everyone, swap was successful and posted a TRIED 0-60ish from a dead stop and umm had to lose the phone to actually drive it lol. See if this works from my phone

    0-60ish 3.91 Getrag - YouTube

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Some road North of Nashville
    Posts
    573
    Post Thanks / Like
    Haha! Story of my life. I borrow the Daytona from time to time, and my phone is often forgotten.

    Did you have to 'massage' the e-brake cable on yours to get the axle to clear?

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    No, only brakes I had to mess with was rotors/calipers. My exhaust was and IS the worst part. Got a plan 4 that though.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    8
    Post Thanks / Like
    i just installed a 3.73 Getrag into my 2006 Charger. i wanted to report that i had to add a washer to the front support bolt to prevent the unit from contacting the frame of the car. i had seen some mention that a washer MAY be needed to prevent the unit from touching the frame. i thought this possible contact would be at the front of the unit near the front support bolt. when i installed the unit into my car i slowly tightened the front bolt and found that i was able to fully tighten the front bolt without a washer and it was not touching the frame in this bolt area. thankfully i had the car on a lift. i decided to take a moment after securing the three bolts to look around the unit to make sure everything looked good. i was surprised to find that the top of the Getrag was contacting the top of the frame of the car. this contact was significant. i was surprised that the unit actually bolted up. i loosened the front bolt and after trying several different size washers, found that a washer around 3/16 thick would allow the unit to just clear the frame. i finished the install and took the car for a drive. i had seen others post that the Getrag was noisey. i was hoping that the noise from my unit would be bearable. to my surprise i found that my unit was not noisey. it was actually completely quiet. not a sound. so, if you have installed a Getrag and have noise, you may want to be sure that the top of your unit is not contacting the frame. if the unit is touching the frame then you can be sure that you will have noise transfering into the body of the car. if you added a thin washer thinking that you only needed to clear the frame at the front where the bolt is, you may just need to add a thicker washer. if i had done this job on the ground, i would have never noticed the top of the unit contacting the frame. and i would have probably lived with the noise thinking it was just the way they are.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    8
    Post Thanks / Like
    i also wanted to mention that when i added the 392 coupler and the pink bolts to my drive shaft i found that the pink bolts just cleared the front of the Getrag. they are everything but touching. i don't thing you could get a dime between the bolts and the carrier housing. i do believe that if you use the pink bolts with the standard thickness coupler, the bolts may possibly contact the Getrag housing. i also noticed that with the Getrag and the thicker 392 coupler, all of the slack is taken out of the slip joint in the center of the drive shaft. i was concerned about this at first but after getting the car back together, i did not feel any pressure turning the driveshaft by hand. with the differential bolted to the frame, you do not have any up and down movement like you would find in a differential that was attached to leaf springs. that said, i just thought i would mention this as i have not heard anyone comment on this. i, myself would have been a little more at ease about it if i had been expecting it to be a tight fit. i have been driving the car a couple of weeks now and everything is great. i love the 3.73 gears. it has made my car something totally different. Chrysler should have offered 3.73 gears from the factory. it is a HUGE performance improvement. if you have been thinking about upgrading to a Getrag, do it! you will not be disappointed.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Some road North of Nashville
    Posts
    573
    Post Thanks / Like
    We did our Getrag upgrade locally, and all told including every possible part the swap went perfectly into our 2007 Daytona. BFNY's instructions took all the guesswork out of it. We did our homework and stacked a total of 4 washers for a perfect fit. Funny thing, the washers OD exactly matched the machining on the Getrag where the pinion bolt passes through the front of the housing. Car is perfectly smooth, though I would add that if you have a catback from Magnaflow, you may have to move your exhaust a bit (spread it) near the 392 coupler to avoid occasional interference. All in all momma's happy and can get out of the driveway without flinging gravel and it's a bit faster now and much smoother.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    660
    Post Thanks / Like
    Backlash43, thanks for the info. I just did my Getrag 3.06 swap a few weeks ago. Heard they were noisy, but learned about the 3/16”-1/4” spacer after the fact,
    when you say rubbing on the the “frame”, do you mean front crossmember of rear subframe where pinion bushing mounts 2) rear crossmember of rear subframe where 2 bolts mount to back of differential? 3) Actual body of the car? 4) something else? I am in the road but need to crawl under my car on jackstands when I get home and know what I am looking for.
    Hemissary, thanks for your usual voice of reason.
    Last edited by 07RT; 11-15-2019 at 11:36 PM. Reason: Typo
    Eibach Pro-kit springs and sway bars, Koni dampeners, K&N Intake, Predator tune by Stu, 180 T-stat, BT park lock replacement, catch can, and dipstick handle Pedders tension strut bushings & bump-steer kit, Blastin' Bob's 4db resonator kit, Inertia Super Spartan cam,6.1 springs & pushrods, JBA shorties, 6.1 pulley, '08 Charger 18's with Yokohama YK580's 235/55/18 front 255/55/18 rear, R1 Concepts premium front & rear rotors,B&M trans dipstick, Mercedes trans pan, Energy Suspension diff and subframe bushings, 3.06 Getrag
    Thanks Hemissary thanked for this post

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    660
    Post Thanks / Like
    I, too was surprised that I had to collapse all the travel from the driveshaft yoke and it was still tight! Yes this fixed position of the IRS makes this much less critical than a complete axle housing suspended by leaf of or coil springs like the old-skool muscle cars I grew up on.

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    660
    Post Thanks / Like
    The 5.7 guibo is thinner, but the built-in sleeves for the bolts are too small of an ID for the Getrag yoke. It will work for a short time, but will get weird with time. Glad I ordered a 6.4 guibo.

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    15,395
    Post Thanks / Like
    You must use the proper guibo; if needed - I can post pics of the resulting (driveshaft) damage when using the original guibos that came mounted to the Mercedes cast iron 215mm differentials - and wrongly mated to a Getrag pinion yoke.

    I put a red star on this inverted 2015 rear cradle where a Getrag differential's front / upper cooling fin structure might touch the rear / lower edge of the cross member:



    After installation, do not install washers right away. If it does touch, tightening the front M10 pinion attachment bolt is only going to compress the upper rubber bushing (buried under the plastic cap on top of the cradle cross member). At which point - its pretty simple to reach up and run a feeler gauge into the area in question (use an inspection mirror).

    If you don't need the washers to drop the front of the differential to create a gap, do not install them. The ideal scenario is that there is zero degrees of alignment deviation from the transmission O/P shaft - all the way to the pinion shaft.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 11-18-2019 at 01:07 AM.

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •