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Thread: getrag swap

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ENUF PWR View Post
    I searched high and low and found the 3.92 diff used 60K out of a mopar 12' 300S for $235. The hubs I got from Detroit axle, and the misc. bolts/fluid/etc. from eastcoastmopar. I also saved $150 by not having to buy the 392 coupler as the 3.92 Getrag came with one.
    The axles I broke even on selling my spare set. Driveshaft out of an 05 300c 5.7. I've been hoarding parts since November. Brought used parts so it helped alot. My hold up was finding a shop to install for a reasonable price.
    Never heard of detroit axle but wow yea that's a good price on hubs. Dang man you're going to make me go cam & rear end



  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magnoom View Post
    Concrete floor with as much clearance the jackstands (mine ratchet up) could give me after lifting it up by the diff as high as it can go with a floor jack lol

    My other issue is that I only have a foot of clearance all around the car. I'm in a single car garage. It's a tight spot if I had to use a cheater or get leverage to brake bolts free. My impact with an extension barely fits under the car lol. And my exhaust is welded from the X pipe back. :/

    06 SRTC
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by never-enough View Post
    I’m not positive but since the manual driveshaft would be from a challenger, it is probably shorter than what you need for your car.
    Perhaps someone else can say this definitively?
    Well with some help from an awesome member here and pointed me in the right direction of a used 3.92 and 3.73, so today a 3.92 should be showing up at my shop. Still a little confused on driveshaft. But seems Challenger is too short which sucks bc of course that's the used one I found for 180$. So I need to find a charger or 300 3 bolt driveshaft, if not will just buy new

    Side note, you guys replace the sub frame bushings and diff bushings while it was out? I've read that it's not that user friendly changing those out

  4. #19
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    For the three bolt flange, you can use a driveshaft out of a 5.7 car.

    As for bushings I'm just doing the pinion bushing. I'd only do the sub-frame bushings if I was doing an entire rear cradle drop or if they were shot (not so in my case...southern car and no issues).
    Likes Jay Z liked this post

  5. #20
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    Well i ordered a driveshaft from a 5.7 14 charger I think, LKQ and I got the axles coming as well so i'm doing pretty good. All is left is hubs and the misc bolts/nuts fluid

  6. #21
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    FWIW use the manual 392 coupler 68090506AA instead of the 505AA p/n they are the same part and 506AA is around $35.00 LESS. Eastcoastmoparts will show this as the front driveshalf coupler but trust me it is the correct REAR GETRAG coupler. I use it on my car.
    Last edited by 4DoorMuscle; 08-23-2019 at 05:25 PM.
    [/SIGPIC]2005 Chrysler 300C SBE, ported big valved heads, Hellcat lifters, SRT 6.1 intake manifold, SRT shorties, custom grind Billy Drakeford cam, SLP LM1, MTCM and GETRAG 3.06 swap.
    Thanks Jay Z, thor363 thanked for this post
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Z View Post
    Well i ordered a driveshaft from a 5.7 14 charger I think, LKQ and I got the axles coming as well so i'm doing pretty good. All is left is hubs and the misc bolts/nuts fluid
    It's not a bad job. Just make sure you have ALL of the right tools lined up and ready. The 4 bolts that hold the hubs on sort of suck. And getting the front pinion bolt out from the upper bushing and the new bolt and upper bushing together wasn't the best fun I have had. And be aware you do have to grind down the tab that holds on the e-brake cable or you can't get the GETRAG axles into the hubs. At least I did when swapping my 2005 300C 5.7 car. a month ago.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4DoorMuscle View Post
    FWIW use the manual 392 coupler 68090506AA instead of the 505AA p/n they are the same part and 506AA is around $35.00 LESS. Eastcoastmoparts will show this as the front driveshalf coupler but trust me it is the correct REAR GETRAG coupler. I use it on my car.
    Simon @Hemissary posted about this a while back. I found that earlier today and thought about returning the 505AA and getting the 506AA part. Will have to see...nope not worth it for the return costs. Good call though for those that haven't got the part yet!
    Last edited by thor363; 08-23-2019 at 08:45 PM.

  9. #24
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    I have the 3.92 installed in my 6.1. I was nervous about using a used getrag (diff whine) but it so quiet. Much more so than the 215mm. 1st-3rd is amazing! Feels like a shift kit was added. Now I understand "you will not have 5th gear" comments. 4th gear just pulls. I was only able to hit 85mph but it still was pulling. The 60-75mph it will reach up 3800 rpm. Exhaust note is tolerable (I have a corsa). Downshifts when braking on the street have the trans hunting for a gear which will take some getting use too. All and all i'm pleased. A 3.73 if cost prohibits would be better as it would bring the rpm's down a tad if daily driven.

  10. #25
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    What I haven't found (and we should list in a 'sticky' tech thread), is the components we already noted, but add the recommended torque specs for each fastener.

    Maybe I'm just blind, or perhaps search challenged.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Z View Post
    Well with some help from an awesome member here and pointed me in the right direction of a used 3.92 and 3.73, so today a 3.92 should be showing up at my shop. Still a little confused on driveshaft. But seems Challenger is too short which sucks bc of course that's the used one I found for 180$. So I need to find a charger or 300 3 bolt driveshaft, if not will just buy new

    Side note, you guys replace the sub frame bushings and diff bushings while it was out? I've read that it's not that user friendly changing those out
    I would have liked to do the subframe bushings and diff bushings but the added cost would have put me over $1k for the install. + The added noise of polyurethane mounts on the rear cradle is something I wasn't sure of. I may add cradle inserts that BMR carry. They can be installed w/o removal of the OEM bushings.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ENUF PWR View Post
    I have the 3.92 installed in my 6.1. I was nervous about using a used getrag (diff whine) but it so quiet. Much more so than the 215mm. 1st-3rd is amazing! Feels like a shift kit was added. Now I understand "you will not have 5th gear" comments. 4th gear just pulls. I was only able to hit 85mph but it still was pulling. The 60-75mph it will reach up 3800 rpm. Exhaust note is tolerable (I have a corsa). Downshifts when braking on the street have the trans hunting for a gear which will take some getting use too. All and all i'm pleased. A 3.73 if cost prohibits would be better as it would bring the rpm's down a tad if daily driven.
    Speaking of 3.73's 3.73 getrag

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by thor363 View Post
    What I haven't found (and we should list in a 'sticky' tech thread), is the components we already noted, but add the recommended torque specs for each fastener.

    Maybe I'm just blind, or perhaps search challenged.
    I have a few specs..
    From the 2009 Service Manual

    DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs.
    BOLT/NUT - SHAFT COUPLER-TO-TRANSMISSION 91 67
    BOLT/NUT - SHAFT COUPLER-TO-REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY 122 89
    BOLT/NUT - COUPLER/DAMPER-TO-PROPELLER SHAFT (REAR) 91 67
    BOLT - CENTER BEARING-TO-BODY (REAR) 27 20

    Rear Axle Front Mount 65 48
    Axle-to-Crossmember Bolts 220 162

  14. #29
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    After much research and hesitation I'm going all in with a 3.92 swap for my 08 SRT8 so your comments are very encouraging. Guy I know gave me a deal on the Getrag and both axles for $300 bucks so I can get this swap done for under a grand. I am aware of higher RPMS at highway speeds but I took my last long road trip with it, Buffalo to Charlotte to Birmingham and back a couple of weeks ago.
    PHATHEMI

  15. #30
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    I switched from 3.73 to 3.92. All gains - no reason to go back. Highway driving is simply a non-issue, despite what the touchie-feelie crowd might think (engine could not care less).
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