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Car Stalls Randomly, Only Code is P0129 and have already replaced the MAP sensor

9K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  optimus124 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello Everyone,

So this is one that I can't get my head around. The ride started randomly shutting off (usually during idle). In all cases it's just a simple restart and the car comes back without any issue (until it stalls again). Randomly the only code the car has every thrown is P0129. This is what I have done so far:

  1. Replaced the MAP Sensor
  2. Cleaned TB
  3. Cleaned Air Sensor

My car had it's gas tank replaced years ago so I wasn't thinking it would be round 2 of that issue. I have also checked the Barometric readings from the sensor in torque and all appear to be OK and operating in normal ranges. I am honestly at a loss here.

Edit May 2019 - Ultimately swapping the PCM that fixed the issue. Please see the last post for additional info
 
#3 ·
Haven't looked at that one yet. This afternoon the car stalls again. I was in a safe location so instead of doing the key turn trick for stored codes, I just waited and had Torque running and did a scan. U0100 was a pending fault. It immediately disappeared once the car was restarted (as it always does). Hopefully it's not the PCM and just a short somewhere along the wiring.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
My car does the same thing, just once a day or so. Last night I had the IPM flipped up and it was worse, it wouldn't stay running 2 minutes with it flipped up. I'm guessing theres a loose wire under there somewhere. I tried wiggling each connector and wire to see what one would make it stall with no luck. I pushed all the fuses, relays, and harness connectors in while wiggling them around and couldn't get it to stall after that. Then put it back together and close the hood and it stalled once :banghead:

In the next few days I'm going to disconnect the battery and pull all the connectors out and clean them if needed and check for loose/bent/corroded pins, etc.
What's the IPM?

Thanks everyone for the responses. I haven't driven the car in a few days. Swapped out the ignition coils and it idles better, but no fix with the main issue. This time I briefly got the P0700 code when doing a scan. I can try the Cam Sensor as well. This car did have an engine swap about 3 years ago (worst swap ever) and I rather replace everything possible before jumpimg to the PCM. Surprisingly if it is the TCM, it's covered under the Lifetime service warranty.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Do you get the code every time it stalls?

The manual states this for the p0129 code, but the cam sensor seems to be a common cause, so it might not hurt to replace that anyway first.

P0129 Possible Causes
(F856) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
(F856) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN
(F856) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(K1) MAP SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
(K1) MAP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(K1) MAP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (K900) SENSOR GROUND
MAP SENSOR
PCM
 
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#10 ·
Check the transmission stuff. There seems to be a very very slow leak around the transmission cooling line so it may be lower than normal. I jiggle the MAP harness and no issues there. Is there a location map for all the ground locations on this car?

As far as parameters go, it's pretty much random.
 
#11 ·
I don't know about ground question. I think everything in the engine eventually makes it to the Integrated Power Distribution Module.

Here's what the manual says about start and stall troubleshooting

*START AND STALL CONDITION
For the Engine circuit diagram (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SCHEMATICS AND DIAGRAMS).
For a complete wiring diagram Refer to Section 8W.
Possible Causes
CURRENT PCM DTCS
CURRENT SKIM DTCS
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR SWEEP
TP SENSOR NO.1 VOLTAGE GREATER THAN 0.92 VOLTS WITH THROTTLE CLOSED
ECT SENSOR
OTHER POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR START AND STALL CONDITION
FUEL CONTAMINATION
Diagnostic Test
1. CHECKING DTCS
Ignition on, engine not running.
With a scan tool, read DTCs.
Are any DTCs present?
Yes >> Refer to the appropriate Diagnostic Procedure.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 2
2. CHECKING SKIM DTCS
NOTE: If you are unable to communicate with the SKIM/SKREEM, refer to the VEHICLE THEFT AND SECU-
RITY ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS in Section 8 and perform the appropriate diagnostics.
With the scan tool, read the SKIM codes.
Are there any SKIM DTCs?
Yes >> Refer to the Sentry Key Vehicle Theft Security Electrical Diagnostics in Section 8.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 3
3. TP SENSOR SWEEP
Ignition on, engine not running.
Using a scan tool, perform the pedal follower test and monitor both TP Sensor voltage readings.
Was the voltage change smooth for both sensors?
Yes >> Go To 4
No >> Replace the Throttle Body Assembly.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
4. TP SENSOR NO.1 VOLTAGE GREATER THAN 0.92 VOLTS WITH THROTTLE CLOSED
With the scan tool, read Throttle Position Sensor No.1 voltage.
Throttle must be against its stop.
Is the voltage 0.92 or less with the Throttle closed?
Yes >> Go To 5
No >> Check for a binding throttle condition. If OK, replace the Throttle Body Assembly.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
5. ECT SENSOR OPERATION
NOTE: For this test to be valid, the thermostat must be operating correctly.
NOTE: This test works best if performed on a cold engine (cold soaked).
NOTE: If the vehicle was allowed to sit over night with no engine start, coolant temperature should be near
ambient temperatures.
Ignition on, engine not running.
With the scan tool, read the ECT value.
NOTE: If engine coolant temperature is above 82° C (180° F), allow the engine to cool until 65° C (150° F) is
reached.
Start the engine.
During engine warm-up, monitor the Engine Coolant Temperature value. The temperature value change should be a
smooth transition from start up to normal operating temp 82° C (180° F). The value should reach at least 82° C
(180° F).
Did the Engine Temperature value increase smoothly and did it reach at least 82° C (180° F)?
Yes >> Go To 6
No >> Replace the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
6. OTHER POSSIBLE CAUSES OF START AND STALL CONDITION
The following additional items should be checked as a possible cause for a start and stall condition.
Refer to any Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) that may apply to the symptom.
The exhaust system must be free of any restrictions.
The engine compression must be within specifications.
The engine valve timing must be within specifications.
The engine must be free from vacuum leaks.
The throttle body must be free of carbon buildup and dirt.
Do any of the above conditions exist?
Yes >> Repair as necessary.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 7
7. FUEL PUMP DELIVERY
Verify that the Fuel tank is not empty before continuing.
Follow the diagnostics for Checking Fuel Delivery in this manual.
Was the No Start condition solved after following the above diagnostic test?
Yes >> Test Complete.
No >> Check for contamination/water in the fuel. Ensure the fuel being used in this vehicle meets OEM Fuel
Requirement, refer to the service manual.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
 
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#14 ·
Man. That sucks. Did you do all the throttle position sensor checks? Have you scanned the transmission codes?

2007 Charger R/T, Supercharged
 
#15 ·
This is going to sound weird, but was also an issue with a family truck, till I found the ground wire not hooked up to the battery (negative terminal). Give that a check? Truck kept stalling all the time even when lights would turn on, came to find the fix within 5 min.


Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums
 
#18 ·
Glad you got it fixed.
 
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#21 · (Edited)
Glad to do it. I think it's a crime to state you have a problem, want people to urgently respond, fix it, and just leave the thread cold.

My 05 RT has occasionally shut off while idling in drive ever since I bought it new. Gas tank replacement had no effect. Before the gas tank replacement, I had to fill the tank very slowly to keep the pump from shutting off and that issue no longer exists. It may be getting worse now. I have never tried to fix it. Perhaps I should replace the cam and crank sensors to see if that will fix it? It's probably the PCM.
To give you a rundown of what I did in order

Crank Positioning Sensor
Cam Positioning Sensor
All of the ignition coilpacks
PCM - Final Fix

Also, there was a thread on one of the other forums where someone referenced doing something with the ASD Relay. DO NOT DO THIS! It will kill the PCM and you will not be able to drive the car at all. The damage will occur at the O2 sensor relay within the PCM making the car sputter and stall. If you have tried all of the things that I have done and it's still giving you issues, I'm confident it is the PCM. It added another $250 to the bill for the dealer to do an electrical diagnostic check to be safe from the apparent issue with the O2 sensor codes.
 
#20 ·
My 05 RT has occasionally shut off while idling in drive ever since I bought it new. Gas tank replacement had no effect. Before the gas tank replacement, I had to fill the tank very slowly to keep the pump from shutting off and that issue no longer exists. It may be getting worse now. I have never tried to fix it. Perhaps I should replace the cam and crank sensors to see if that will fix it? It's probably the PCM.
 
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