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Car died while driving and wouldn't turn over

5K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  SPRBEE 
#1 ·
First Gen lx. I was driving for maybe 5 minutes and then the car just started dinging and a bunch of dash lights went on. Engine, brake, abs, etc. Felt like the car wasn't responding to throttle any more. Shut car off and then it wouldn't even try to crank. Voltage read fine. Then I had to push the car off the road. Before I left it, I tried one more time and it started. But it was acting funny and wouldn't respond to throttle. I let it idle as I checked under the hood. Was about to leave it again and all the lights except for the engine light extinguished and it let me drive it home and felt normal.

Any ideas?

My first thought is that against my better judgment, I took the car to get detailed less than a week ago. They cleaned the engine bay, although I didn't ask them to. I've driven it for 5 days since then and no issues until today.

I'm about to go pull the codes.

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#2 ·
...I took the car to get detailed less than a week ago. They cleaned the engine bay, although I didn't ask them to...
My guess is your alternator got wet when they cleaned your engine bay.
 
#3 ·
Hate to even guess without the codes, but I would think it was the alternator before i saw you had it detailed.

Sounds like it went into limp mode
 
#4 ·
Here are the codes that showed up:

P0481
P0513
P0645
U0121
U1110
U1120

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#5 ·
alternator shorted out, recall for 2012 chargers and more, almost caused a fire. Dead battery and burnt wires. check recall.
 
#6 ·
Mine is a first Gen lx and doesn't have any outstanding recalls. Also I replaced the alternator 9 months ago so it's not the factory one any more. Would getting the alternator wet cause these problems? I've replaced the alternator twice since I bought the car in 2007 and both times the symptoms were much different. Those times I just noticed the voltage being too low when running.

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#7 ·
Definitely on 1st Generation LX's and likely all platforms since; getting the alternator wet has zero effect on performance / output (blast it at the car wash all you like).
 
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#8 ·
Simon, you are thinking it's an issue with the alternator as well?

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#10 ·
Well it's the weirdest thing. I drove it around my neighborhood for a while and it seemed fine. I thought maybe they got the fuse box or something wet. Pulled some fuses and they were all good. [emoji37]

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#11 ·
My original alternator took a shiet within a week of having washed the engine bay just recently. At first I thought it was because of getting it wet, but then I remembered seeing the voltage go low while running a few times, then going back to normal, about a month prior to washing it. so in addition to that, plus having washed the engine bay at least 5 times prior to this made me realize it wasn't getting it wet that did it. It was just a coincidence.
 
#12 ·
It is/was almost certainly alternator or battery related nothing to do with getting washed. When the alternator goes the dash will light up like vegas and the car will start to die. Ask me how I know...
Just today I had to replace my alternator. Yesterday my girlfriend and I spent all day driving in my car shopping. We go to a movie later. Come out of the movies and car drives fine. Start pulling into the garage dash lights up, park assist off, traction control off, etc. The lights start dimming car starts surging. Get it parked and shut down. Try to crank and just get clicking. Next morning starts fine and runs then dies again.
Replaced alternator and now all is well.
Only difference in cases is I got no codes (at least on my ****y $20 scanner). Battery checked out as fine but needed a charge. I pulled my old alternator to have it checked and it was confirmed bad.

Either your battery is going or your alternator is. How old is your battery?


2013 Challenger R/T, 270 comp cam, BES p&p heads, OCPerformance dual plane, NX gemini plate, JBA longtubes, DSS one piece aluminum driveshaft, SHR transmission, 3000 stall, 88mm fastman throttle body, meizere electric water pump, 3.91 rear, lakewood drag shocks A2speed front coilovers...too much to list
 
#13 · (Edited)
When I pulled over and shut her off I was reading 12.4 volts. That's what I would expect with the car off. If the alternator cuts out when driving then would it drain the battery? Battery is about 1.5 years old and is the big H8 cop sized version and the alternator is 9 months old.

My other thought is that when they cleaned under the hood, they may have got some water in the PCM since it's located under the hood. Planning to pull that tonight to inspect and put a fan on. I was reading some random Ford service bulletin about a certain model that was prone to the PCM getting wet and it said "Symptoms may include various diagnostic trouble codes, harsh or delayed transmission shifts or engagements, no reverse engagement, engine overheat, engine lean conditions causing a misfire (possibly leading to melted electrodes on the spark plugs) and rough idle."

That could explain the wide assortment of diagnostic codes that don't appear related.

P0481: Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0513: Incorrect Immobilizer Key
P0645: A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
U0121: Lost Communication with ABS Module
U1110: Lost Vehicle Speed Message
U1120: Lost Wheel Distance Message
 
#14 ·
It would run the battery down some. When I had mine tested it was fine but needed charged. But it still turned over the next morning after sitting all night. It sounds like one of the two is on its way out.
These modern engines are weather packed. Short of taking a pressure washer to the engine, water sprayed on it is not going to harm anything. I’ve sprayed down my engine probably hundreds of times over the years.


2013 Challenger R/T, 270 comp cam, BES p&p heads, OCPerformance dual plane, NX gemini plate, JBA longtubes, DSS one piece aluminum driveshaft, SHR transmission, 3000 stall, 88mm fastman throttle body, meizere electric water pump, 3.91 rear, lakewood drag shocks A2speed front coilovers...too much to list
 
#15 · (Edited)
When the electrical / charging system is functioning correctly, the alternator provides 100% of the current supply (at least on OEM vehicles without ancillaries). If the alternator can not meet current requirements (the alternator operating at 100% duty cycle) vehicle current consumption will be shared with the battery.

Rarely does an alternator itself and / or the PCM's internal current / voltage regulation (duty cycle) fail outright. Rather the alternator's ability to produce current and / or the electronics begin to fail.

The end result is the battery takes on the duty of supplying current. At some point, the battery voltage drops to the point that the vehicle will not remain running, thus the PCM begins to shut down resulting in the instrument binnacle lighting up like a Xmas tree.

Unlike older vehicles, ours will not run on the alternator output alone. The battery must be part of the circuit for the vehicle to remain running...
 
#16 ·
When the electrical / charging system is functioning correctly, the alternator provides 100% of the current supply (at least on OEM vehicles without ancillaries). If the alternator can not meet current requirements (the alternator operating at 100% duty cycle) vehicle current consumption will be shared with the battery.

Rarely does an alternator itself and / or the PCM's internal current / voltage regulation (duty cycle) fail outright. Rather the alternator's ability to produce current and / or the electronics begin to fail.

The end result is the battery takes on the duty of supplying current. At some point, the battery voltage drops to the point that the vehicle will not remain running, thus the PCM begins to shut down resulting in the instrument binnacle lighting up like a Xmas tree.

Unlike older vehicles, ours will not run on the alternator output alone. The battery must be part of the circuit for the vehicle to remain running...
This has me further thinking it's not the alternator because once I pulled over, shut it down, and tried to restart it made absolutely no attempt to start. No noise, no click, nothing. Battery read 12.4v. After it sat for 20 minutes or so and I pushed it off the road then it eventually started up. If it was battery or alternator then I would think it would at least try to start and fail but not start up after sitting for a while. I'll keep an eye on my voltages while driving and pull the PCM tonight.
 
#20 ·
Just thinking you should load check that battery. If it has a bad cell, it can show 14v at static, but drop to 6 or 8V under load - depending on which cell is bad.
 
#23 ·
Speaking of the battery, I was checking my connections and noticed that the nut on the positive side needed a couple complete rotations to tighten...
 
#24 ·
Actually Dan, it could be that simple :^)
 
#25 ·
Hey Dan, how’s it running now? A few months ago, car ran great. 2007 Charger Road&Track.... >200,000 miles. Parked it at the neighbors house and let it sit for an hour... Dead as a door nail. After a charge, fired right up. Drove a mile away and the dash lit up, car shuddered and quit. 11.9 Volts on Easter Egg dash display. Checked the alternator, only a month old and found it good. Battery checked out at Auto Zone..... Until I picked it up and bounced it off the counter.... Battery Fail. (Piece of crap Interstate) After a new Odyssey, the car was golden. Bad plates, done deal....


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#26 ·
Hey Dan.

Just wondering what you ended up doing to fix it?I am having the same issue right now as well.

:beerchug:
 
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