Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 24 of 24
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Salem, N.J.
    Posts
    154
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK, please confirm what I have found. I don’t have possession of the replacement Steering Column yet but did some investigating. It seems Fuse 5 (Slow Blow 30 amp) keeps blowing (expensive little suckers). Looking at the Wiring Diagram (I do not have Heated Seats) it appears the only load on this Fuse is the downstream 10 amp Fuse 30, which isn’t blowing. So am I right to think the problem (short) must exist in the Fuse Box itself between those two Fuses? Of course there’s that Grounding Diode, could a Diode Fail in a way to create a short?



  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ALPO View Post
    Of course there’s that Grounding Diode, could a Diode Fail in a way to create a short?
    It could be in backwards or you could remove it and see if fuse 5 still blows. If it still blows it could be a bad diode or something else on that fuse.

    I would just unplug everything on that circuit, it's all in the doors. If the fuse stops blowing then it's one of those modules, if it still blows it's the wiring.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Salem, N.J.
    Posts
    154
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by 69RT View Post
    It could be in backwards or you could remove it and see if fuse 5 still blows. If it still blows it could be a bad diode or something else on that fuse.

    I would just unplug everything on that circuit, it's all in the doors. If the fuse stops blowing then it's one of those modules, if it still blows it's the wiring.
    If the 10 Amp fuse to the be Door and Steering Column Modules aren’t blowing how could it be anywhere on that circuit? The problem must be between those two fuses - I do not have Power Seats so the only thing in there is the Diode (or the Distribution Center itself). Which brings me to my next question, how can I be sure the Diode is installed correctly, is it obvious? I have read where others have installed it backwards causing the fuse to blow.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    The diode arrow points away from ground. So you would take a DVOM and see what terminal is ground and plug the diode into it accordingly.
    I'm assuming you don't have a DVOM with a diode tester? I have one, it'll tell you if it's bad or not.

    I just went out and looked at mine. The big diode points to the rear of the car and the two smaller ones point to the drivers side.

    I also have every inch of wire out of a parts car. If I remember correctly the wiring is there even if you don't have power, or heated seats. I replaced the carpet in my other car and do know there is one unused wire plug under each seat and it has driver power seat, not heated, and it's not for the SRS as that works.

    So your wiring could be damaged still.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Salem, N.J.
    Posts
    154
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by 69RT View Post
    The diode arrow points away from ground. So you would take a DVOM and see what terminal is ground and plug the diode into it accordingly.
    I'm assuming you don't have a DVOM with a diode tester? I have one, it'll tell you if it's bad or not.

    I just went out and looked at mine. The big diode points to the rear of the car and the two smaller ones point to the drivers side.

    I also have every inch of wire out of a parts car. If I remember correctly the wiring is there even if you don't have power, or heated seats. I replaced the carpet in my other car and do know there is one unused wire plug under each seat and it has driver power seat, not heated, and it's not for the SRS as that works.

    So your wiring could be damaged still.
    EXACTLY the type feedback I wanted, thanks! I plan on looking at the car again tomorrow and have an idea of what to do. First I think I’ll remove the Ground Diode and 10 Amp Fuse (eliminating the Door and SCCM Modules) and see if the Fuse Blows again. “IF” it Blows my problem will most likely be the Wiring associated with Heated Seats (although not installed on this car I understand the wiring is still there). Checking that wiring for shorts will not be an easy task, the wiring diagram looks FAR more simple than reality. I assume the wiring from the Fuse somehow runs first up behind the Dash to where the Switches would be and from there under the seats (or could be the other way around). I had entertained the thought of simply cutting and capping the associated wires right there at the fuse box (after all I don’t even have Heated Seats), but hate Bastardized Cars. We’ll see. I do pickup the Steering Column tomorrow and although I most likely don’t need the SCCM, the Cruise Control Stalk does need replacing so not a total waste. Thanks again for the added information!!!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Salem, N.J.
    Posts
    154
    Post Thanks / Like
    Oh, I did check the Diodes, and they’re are installed the same as yours (69RT). Thanks for that tidbit as well. It would have been nice if it were that simple.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Salem, N.J.
    Posts
    154
    Post Thanks / Like
    Pulled the fuses and Diodes, reinstalled them and they seem to be holding. I also swapped the Steering Column Mounted Turn and Cruise Stalks/Switches, the SCCM, and Clockspring out with the Used Spare. The 110a Code is now clear (all codes are Clear) and I now seem to have restored Full Functions of the Steering Column. However the ESP/BAS and Brake Lights are still Lit and the Radio is still not working. I am thinking each of those issues might be unique issues Unto themselves. I have another Radio from my earlier 07 Magnum that I will swap out, we’ll see how that goes. According to other Forum posts The ESP/BAS and Antilock Brake Light issues might reset after a Full Cycle of the Wheel Reset Process, or my even reset themselves after enough time, probably not though. Any thoughts out there? At least “it appears” I have made forward process.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yes, every time I reconnect my battery I turn the steering wheel to the right, left, center, and key off. Wait a minute and start it back up.

    Even one time I forgot to do that the lights went out in less than a mile of driving.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Salem, N.J.
    Posts
    154
    Post Thanks / Like
    Update - All the Alarms have been cleared!!!! The Radio is Working!!!! The only remaining issues are the Inoperable Tachometer (replaceable through exchange on EBay for $100) Tire Pressure Sensors (easy enough) and the Drivers Seat Front adjusters seem to be broken (seat front springs up and down). The Car cleaned up “pretty good” as it appeared it was a Unruly Child and animal transport for many years. For what I paid I guess I’m OK with it. Thanks for all the help.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •