Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 21
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Gaithersburg, MD
    Posts
    360
    Post Thanks / Like

    5.7 PCV Valve Replacement

    I am coming up on 30k miles and one of the maintenance items to to chack and replace the PCV valve if neccessary. I took mine out and checked it last night. It's looks like just a plastic tibe with a piece of metal in it. The metal ball or pin or whatever, was just kinda rattling around. Is that normal, and how do you know that it needs to be replaced. I would have thought there might be a spring in there and that the crank case has to overcome the spring pressure to vent. I am thinking about just spending the $24 that I have seen it for and replacing it, but if I can get a good answer on this I'll save it for later. I already did the spark plugs, so this is the only other thing I need to do.
    2010 Nissan Xterra S
    Sold:2006 R/T: JBA catback & headers, K&N Aircharger CAI, Diablo Predator 91CAI Tune, 180* Tstat, Cabin Filter Kit, hood struts, Daytona grill and emblem,Daytona rear R/T badge, Daytona Chin Spoiler,BT catch can, BT MOPAR hood emblem, BT R/T Engraved shift bezel, BT Shift Stick. - 305 RWHP & 344 RWTQ - pre shorties.
    1/4 Mi. 13.57 @ 102.73mph



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    11,769
    Post Thanks / Like
    if you use Mobil 1 or any synthetic ...save your money....as long as you hear the rattle it is working fine.
    with cenventional oils you might get a stuck one after so many miles....will never happen with synthetic....period...from experience

    12.869 @ 102.02 Stock 5.7 w/ C&L, Predator, JBA Cats, Volant catback, 3.06 Getrag, DRs & skinnies www.hemirace.com
    Currently 12.26 @ 111+MPH with a completely Stock 6.1 4,250 lbs.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Gaithersburg, MD
    Posts
    360
    Post Thanks / Like
    I was using Castrol full sythetic and am now using Royal Purple.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    11,769
    Post Thanks / Like
    then you're good..save the greens

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1
    Post Thanks / Like
    Where is the PCV on the 300C and how do you remove it?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    greasy cardboard box
    Posts
    23,373
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by jimj View Post
    Where is the PCV on the 300C and how do you remove it?
    from FSM:
    5.7L


    The PCV valve (3) is mounted into the top/right side of the intake manifold (2).


    1.The PCV valve (1) is sealed to the intake manifold with two O-rings (2).
    2.Remove PCV valve by rotating counter-clockwise 90 degrees until locating tabs (3) have been freed. After tabs have cleared, pull valve straight up from intake manifold.3.After valve is removed, check condition of two valve O-rings (2).

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    Posts
    946
    Post Thanks / Like
    You got to be kidding? I have only had 8 cars in my life and that is the easiest I've ever had for a PCV!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Edmonds, WA
    Posts
    6,794
    Post Thanks / Like
    You can put a little seafoam or throttlebody cleaner in there to make sure no gunk buildup, then put her back in. I replaced mine at 80k, just for the heck of it.
    2008 Magnum BB R/T Hemi Registry # 1584 PPP Stage 2 Cam, JBA Shorty Headers, JBA High Flow cats, Heartthrob Exhaust, Eagle Intake, LMI Intake, MTCM, Blue Tops, ProTorque Converter, SRT Rear, Techo Strut Brace, lowered, Tuned by Diablotoona SOLD--2005 Mineral Gray AWD Hemi Registry # 1154

    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    For the work being performed, length is far more important than diameter :^)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    Posts
    946
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mine just had the worst gunk on it than any vehicle I have owned! The bottom part of my K/N was covered in oil. I'm 300 miles from my oil change. Not leaking from anywhere so where in the [email protected]&$ is it coming from.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Bainsville Ontario
    Posts
    6,228
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you want to know if your PVC valve is working, at idle, remove the tube on the oher side of the manifold (the one that goes to your K&N from near the oil fill cap) and see if there is vacuum there. Put your thumb over the tube opening and you should feel it. Get someone to blip the throttle wide open for you and you shoud feel a VERY low pressure. No vacuum, PVC system plugged up somewhere. Alot of pressure at WOT, cylinder blowby excessive.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    N Florida
    Posts
    862
    Post Thanks / Like
    I clean mine with brake cleaner about once a year. As long as the check-ball moves freely, it should be good.

    '06 300C in Cool Vanilla
    Bentley Grill
    VentShades
    Splash Guards
    aFe Stage II CAI
    Bell 995 (bought one day too late )

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    15,130
    Post Thanks / Like
    the 5.7L PCV is like $55

    get a catch can.. 114K on my 300c when traded, 95K of that with a catch can, never changed the PCV..

    PCV every 30K @ $55 = 4 for me $220

    Catch Catch from Billet Tech $175 for all the trimmings..


    it's a wash..
    I'm only responsible for what I say, not for what you fail to understand.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    N Florida
    Posts
    862
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by JetBlack300c View Post
    the 5.7L PCV is like $55

    get a catch can.. 114K on my 300c when traded, 95K of that with a catch can, never changed the PCV..

    PCV every 30K @ $55 = 4 for me $220

    Catch Catch from Billet Tech $175 for all the trimmings..


    it's a wash..
    PCV valves are likely good for 100K or so. If you paid $55 for one, I have some ocean-front property in Wyoming you might like.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    15,130
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeHTally View Post
    PCV valves are likely good for 100K or so. If you paid $55 for one, I have some ocean-front property in Wyoming you might like.

    owners manual states check and if needed replace every 30K, like I said I had a catch can so i never did, but the 5.7L PCV is not designed for more than about 30K and it is $55 at the dealer.

    it is not available aftermarket as it is not a standard PCV, pep-boys, auto-zone, napa, etc will all tell you that..

    the 6.1L is different, but the MDS 5.7L is $55 and yeah sure it might last until 100K but if you fail to follow the manufacturers recommended maintenance, you void your warranty or service contract.

    and we all know how wonderful Chrysler is with denying warranty service..

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    N Florida
    Posts
    862
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by JetBlack300c View Post
    owners manual states check and if needed replace every 30K, like I said I had a catch can so i never did, but the 5.7L PCV is not designed for more than about 30K and it is $55 at the dealer.

    it is not available aftermarket as it is not a standard PCV, pep-boys, auto-zone, napa, etc will all tell you that..

    the 6.1L is different, but the MDS 5.7L is $55 and yeah sure it might last until 100K but if you fail to follow the manufacturers recommended maintenance, you void your warranty or service contract.

    and we all know how wonderful Chrysler is with denying warranty service..
    NAPA has 'em for $32. I bought mine at the dealer for $27. Haven't used it yet.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •