Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    2,256
    Post Thanks / Like

    Check Engine Light...P0456

    I drove my Charger all day yesterday and the car ran great. Today I go to turn the car on and I see the CEL (Check Engine Light) come on. I check for the code using the key method and it tells me (P0456).

    P0456-EVAP PURGE SYSTEM SMALL LEAK

    Can someone tell me what this is? Thanks.

    FreebirdSRT
    2007 Dodge Charger SRT Super Bee 993/1000
    2012 Chrysler 300S

    SOLD
    2006 Chrysler 300 SRT
    2006 Dodge Magnum SRT



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Lorain Oh
    Posts
    34,690
    Post Thanks / Like
    check your gas cap
    BFNY Performance
    9515 Detroit Rd,Cleveland Ohio 44102
    440-787-7235 8am- 5pm

    [email protected]
    RIP NHDave
    RIP LOU1355

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Braintree, Massachusetts
    Posts
    4,166
    Post Thanks / Like

    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by Hemi31 View Post
    check your gas cap
    You would get P0457 for a loose gas cap and would see "Gas Cap" in the odometer. Look closely at the hoses you can see. Make absolutely sure the purge solenoid holds vacuum when testing it for at least 45 seconds and check it twice. I had a purge solenoid that tested good initially but failed the next time. Here's the diagnostic procedure. They seperated the test procedure for the evap. system from the DTC test, but I'll put the test below the DTC test. Stupid Block Chrysler's got on 2007 up service info!!! Well at least the 2006 stuff is the same. Please note the 2007 and newer models have the ESIM switch instead of the NVLD switch/solenoid used 2006 and older. It is mounted directly to the canister rather than seperately like the NVLD is.

    P0456-EVAP SYSTEM SMALL LEAK
    For a complete wiring diagram Refer to Section 8W.

    • When Monitored:

    • With the ignition off, fuel level less than 88%, ambient temperature between 4░ C and 43░ C (39░ F and 109░ F).
    • Set Condition: As temperatures change, a vacuum is created in the fuel tank and EVAP system. With the EVAP system sealed, the PCM monitors the ESM switch. If the ESM switch does not close within a calibrated time, an error is detected by the PCM. One Trip Fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.
    Possible Causes
    INTERMITTENT DTC
    EVAP PURGE SOLENOID
    VACUUM SUPPLY
    EVAP PURGE HOSE/TUBE OBSTRUCTION
    EVAP SYSTEM LEAK
    Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
    1. EVAP SYSTEM INSPECTION
    Inspect the Evap System for any of the following conditions:
    - Holes or cracks
    - Loose seal points
    - Damaged or missing components
    - Incorrect routing of hoses and tubes
    - Loose or missing fuel cap
    - Damaged or missing fuel cap seal
    - Improper installation of the fuel cap
    - Damaged locking tabs on the fuel cap and/or filler tube
    - Damaged seal points on the fuel cap and/or filler tube
    Were any problems found?
    Yes
    No
    • Go to 2
    2. EVAP PURGE SOLENOID
    Disconnect the purge lines at the Evap Purge Solenoid.
    Using a hand vacuum pump, apply 10 inHg of vacuum to the "CAN" side of the Evap Purge Solenoid.
    NOTE: The solenoid should hold vacuum for a minimum of 15 seconds.
    Turn the ignition on.
    With the scan tool, actuate the Evap Purge Solenoid to the ON position.
    NOTE: The vacuum should drop when the solenoid is actuated.
    Does the solenoid function as described above?
    Yes
    • Go to 3
    No
    3. EVAP PURGE HOSE/TUBE OBSTRUCTION
    Inspect the Evap Purge hose/tube between the Evap Purge Solenoid and the Fuel Tank and between the Fuel Tank and the Evap Purge Canister for proper routing and installation.
    Make sure the hoses and tubes are not damaged, kinked, or blocked.
    Were any problems found?
    Yes
    No
    • Go to 4
    4. CHECKING THE EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
    Perform the diagnostic procedure for *CHECKING THE EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM FOR LEAKS.
    Were any problems found?
    Yes
    No
    See next post for leak test.
    2017 Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack - Go Mango
    2011 Dodge Charger R/T Plus AWD- Redline - 5.7L Hemi Registry #1650 Tbird100636

    2006 Dodge Charger R/T- Inferno Red - Gone - 5.7L Hemi Registry # 00696 Tbird100636


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Braintree, Massachusetts
    Posts
    4,166
    Post Thanks / Like

    Exclamation

    *CHECKING THE EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
    For a complete wiring diagram Refer to Section 8W.
    Diagnostic Test
    1. EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM INSPECTION
    Turn the ignition off.
    Raise the vehicle as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
    Perform a thorough inspection on the evaporative/fuel system. Check for the following conditions:
    - Holes or cracks
    - Loose seal points
    - Evidence of damaged components
    - Incorrect routing of hoses or tubes
    - Loose or missing fuel filler cap
    - Improper installation of the fuel filler cap
    - Damaged locking tabs on cap and/or fill tube
    - Damaged seal points on cap and/or fill tube
    - Fuel cap gasket seal missing or damaged
    Were any problems found?
    Yes
    No
    • Go to 2
    2. EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM LEAK
    To test the evaporative system for leaks you will need Miller Tool #8404A Evaporative Emission Leak Detector (EELD).
    WARNING: Keep lit cigarettes, sparks, flames, and other ignition sources away from the test area to prevent the ignition of explosive gases. Keep the test area well ventilated. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.
    NOTE: The fuel tank should have between 20% and 80% of fuel tank capacity to properly test the EVAP system.
    Connect the red power lead of the EELD to the battery positive terminal and the black ground lead to battery negative terminal.
    Connect shop air to the EELD.
    Set the smoke/air control switch to AIR.
    Insert the tester's AIR supply tip (clear hose) into the appropriate calibration orifice on the tester's control panel (based on DTC leak size).
    Press the remote smoke/air start button.
    Position the red flag on the air flow meter so it is aligned with the indicator ball.
    When the calibration is complete, release the remote button. The EELD flow meter is now calibrated in liters per minute to the size leak indicated by the DTC set in the PCM.
    Install the service port adapter #8404-14 on the vehicle's service port and block the vent hose of the EVAP canister (if equipped) or install the #8404-ADP service adapter into the filter line.
    Connect the AIR supply hose from the EELD to the service port (if equipped) or to the #8404-ADP adapter.
    Press the remote button to activate AIR flow.
    NOTE: Vehicles with large volume fuel tanks, lower fuel levels, or vehicles equipped with a flow management valve may indicate high flow and will require 4 to 5 minutes to fill.
    Compare the flow meter indicator ball reading to the red flag.
    ABOVE the red flag indicates that a leak present.
    BELOW the red flag indicates that the system is sealed.
    Is the indicator ball above the red flag?
    Yes
    • Go to 3
    No
    • Refer to the Freeze Frame data, if applicable. If the Freeze Frame data indicates that the vehicle was in motion when the DTC was set, verify that all hoses are connected properly.
    • Perform the PCM Verification Test.(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
    3. EVAPORATIVE EMISSION LEAK DETECTION
    NOTE: A thorough inspection of the EVAP system hoses, tubes, and connections may save time in diagnosis. Look for physical damage or signs of wetness at connections. The strong smell of fuel vapors may aid diagnosis also.
    To continue testing, you will need Miller Tool #8404A Evaporative Emissions Leak Detector (EELD).
    Remove the AIR supply hose from the service port (if equipped) or from the #8404-ADP adapter.
    Connect the SMOKE supply tip (black hose) to the service port (if equipped) or to the #8404-ADP adapter.
    Set the smoke/air control switch to SMOKE.
    NOTE: The flow meter indicator ball will not move in the smoke mode.
    Press the remote smoke/air start button.
    NOTE: Make sure that smoke has filled the EVAP system by continuing to press the remote smoke/air start button, remove the vehicle fuel cap, and wait for the smoke to exit. Once smoke is detected, reinstall the fuel cap.
    NOTE: For the best results, introduce smoke into the system for an additional 60 seconds and continue introducing smoke at 15 second intervals, as necessary.
    While still holding the remote smoke/air start button, use the white light (#8404-CLL) to follow the EVAP system path, and look for the source of the leak as indicated by exiting smoke.
    If a leak is concealed from view (at the top of the fuel tank, for example), release the remote smoke/air start button, and use the ultraviolet (UV) black light #8404-UVL and the yellow goggles 8404-20 to look for residual traces of dye that is left behind by the smoke.
    The exiting smoke deposits a residual fluid that is either bright green or bright yellow when viewed with a UV light.
    Were any problems found?
    Yes
    No
    • Go to 4
    4. CHECKING THE GAS CAP AND FUEL FILLER TUBE
    Thoroughly check the gas cap and filler tube area for leaks.
    Was a leak found at the gas cap or filler tube?
    Yes
    • Go to 5
    No
    • Go to 6
    5. GAS CAP OR FUEL FILLER TUBE
    Remove the SMOKE supply tip (black hose) from the service port (if equipped) or from the #8404ľADP adapter.
    Install gas cap adapter, Miller Tool #8382 (1/4 turn cap) or #6922 (screw cap) and #8399* (secondary seal depressor) and repeat test 4.
    Was a leak found at the gas cap adapter?
    Yes
    No
    6. CHECKING FOR EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM LEAKS IN ZONE 1


    NOTE: For testing purposes, the EVAP System is divided into three zones. A leak from any of these zones can cause a DTC to set. The lists in the following steps below specify possible leak points in one of the specific zones.
    Using the list below, check each of the components in Zone 1 of the evaporative system for leaks:
    1 Fuel Cap.
    2 Recirculation Check Valve.
    3 Vapor Recirculation Line.
    4 Signal Vapor Line for FVM.
    5 Flow Management Valve.
    6 Fuel Tank to Canister Vapor Line.
    7 Fuel Tank Vent (Check Valve).
    8 Vapor Line to Canister.
    9 Flow Control Orifice.
    10 Control Valve.
    11 Liquid Trap.
    12 Fuel Tank.
    13 Check Valve.
    14 Fuel Fill Tube to Tank connector.
    15 Fuel Fill Tube.
    Damaged or disconnected components.
    Were any problems found?
    Yes
    No
    • Go to 7
    7. CHECKING FOR EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM LEAKS IN ZONE 2


    NOTE: For testing purposes, the EVAP System is divided into three zones. A leak from any of these zones can cause a DTC to set. The lists in the following steps below specify possible leak points in one of the specific zones.
    Using the list below, check each of the components in Zone 2 of the evaporative system for leaks:
    1 Filter.
    2 ESM.
    3 Canister Vent Line.
    4 Evap Canister.
    5 Chassis Purge Valve.
    6 Fuel Tank to Canister Vapor Line connection.
    7 Evap Purge connection.
    Were any problems found?
    Yes
    No
    • Go to 8
    8. CHECKING FOR EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM LEAKS IN ZONE 3


    NOTE: For testing purposes, the EVAP System is divided into three zones. A leak from any of these zones can cause a DTC to set. The lists in the following steps below specify possible leak points in one of the specific zones.
    Using the list below, check each of the components in Zone 3 of the evaporative system for leaks:
    1 Evap Purge Vacuum Line.
    2 Connection to Chassis Line.
    3 Connection to Canister.
    4 Chassis Purge Line.
    5 Evap Purge Vacuum Line.
    6 Connection to Evap Purge Harness.
    7 Chassis Evap Purge Line connection to Engine Vacuum.
    8 Evap Purge Valve.
    9 Service Port.
    Were any problems found?
    Yes
    No
    • Test complete.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Spring TX
    Posts
    4,236
    Post Thanks / Like
    TBird, could you please be a bit more detailed in your response?

    Thanks
    2007 Road&Track Charger
    Billet Technology*AMG paddles*AFE II*Jina SSE
    Eibach&Koni*FR wheels*SRT8 hood #993*Predator
    Danko*Hurst paint & body*Wings West

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Lorain Oh
    Posts
    34,690
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by stroguy View Post
    TBird, could you please be a bit more detailed in your response?

    Thanks
    LMAO!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Spring TX
    Posts
    4,236
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemi31 View Post
    LMAO!
    Crimmany, the only thing he could have done better was to go to FreeBird's place and do the work for him. This may be the best reply I have ever seen on here. Totally awesome.

    Kudos TBird.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Braintree, Massachusetts
    Posts
    4,166
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cool

    Always willing to help.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Upstate, New York
    Posts
    1,813
    Post Thanks / Like
    This is why I am into this forum, you never know what you will learn from other members.




    "Heimes Oppugnamus Et Montes Superamus"

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    2,256
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thank you very much TBird. I will print out what you posted and take it with me to the dealer this week.

    That is what I love about this forums.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    greasy cardboard box
    Posts
    23,373
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by FreebirdSRT View Post
    Thank you very much TBird. I will print out what you posted and take it with me to the dealer this week.

    That is what I love about this forums.
    i would recommend against that. they already have access to the same info and TBird might get into trouble for posting CW material.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2
    Post Thanks / Like

    Engine Light 2006 Hemi will not go off

    I have read your postings regarading the engine light.
    Well, Something is wrong with the 2006 Dodge RT. We purchased the car only a week ago from a Honda Dealer. The 2006 was originally purchased through our local Dodge Dealership.

    When we picked up the car from the Honda for delievery, we were told everything was o.k. As we left the Honda dealership, the engine light went on. Yes, we were told that it was fix. However, it still is on. Naturally we took it back not to Honda but to the Dodge dealership to see what was up with this. We actually went in to have the Plusgs change along with a oil change and a check up. Well, the story goes like this, Brought it in Monday morning, still do not have it back. Yes, I took the first suggestion in purchasing a new gas cap..The service manager said that did not work, nor did they get the evac code...I went in yesterday, Tuesday, nothing yet...called in the afternoon, only to be told it is still not ready and they order a oil sensor...and to be patient...Well, Wednesday morning is here and I do have a real bad feeling regarding this. I was told yesterday by the Honda place that they gave Dodge permission to fix the problem. However, the other shoe fell. I was told that the eletrical wires were replaced due to rodents chewing them..

    I do feel at this stage I am getting the round around. I plan on leaving the car at the Dodge place today...I cannot imagine that it would take three days to locate the problem..WE love the look and the drive..However, I now feel that something is more then what they say.

    We might go back to ask for a full refund from Honda. Considering the car has been at the Dodge place longer then we owned the car.

    Bottom line: Does this board think I have the right to ask for our money back.? I tried to prevent all of this by going to the Dodge dealership beforehand to ask for reports or the car. They would not do it until I was the owner.

    Please help prevent this headace with good advice.
    Mango34

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    5,014
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yeah TBird, less is better. what's a matter with you?

    LOL!!! J/K. Good info.
    2012 Dodge Charger

    PB 1/8 run: 7.92 @ 86.92 * 1.76 60' on street tires with DA at 1786 - All Stock

    Current mods:

    Custom tune by Lxmodguy, Stage II VB, Corsa Extreme Exhaust and LMI true CAI



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Braintree, Massachusetts
    Posts
    4,166
    Post Thanks / Like

    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by Mango34 View Post
    I have read your postings regarading the engine light.
    Well, Something is wrong with the 2006 Dodge RT. We purchased the car only a week ago from a Honda Dealer. The 2006 was originally purchased through our local Dodge Dealership.

    When we picked up the car from the Honda for delievery, we were told everything was o.k. As we left the Honda dealership, the engine light went on. Yes, we were told that it was fix. However, it still is on. Naturally we took it back not to Honda but to the Dodge dealership to see what was up with this. We actually went in to have the Plusgs change along with a oil change and a check up. Well, the story goes like this, Brought it in Monday morning, still do not have it back. Yes, I took the first suggestion in purchasing a new gas cap..The service manager said that did not work, nor did they get the evac code...I went in yesterday, Tuesday, nothing yet...called in the afternoon, only to be told it is still not ready and they order a oil sensor...and to be patient...Well, Wednesday morning is here and I do have a real bad feeling regarding this. I was told yesterday by the Honda place that they gave Dodge permission to fix the problem. However, the other shoe fell. I was told that the eletrical wires were replaced due to rodents chewing them..

    I do feel at this stage I am getting the round around. I plan on leaving the car at the Dodge place today...I cannot imagine that it would take three days to locate the problem..WE love the look and the drive..However, I now feel that something is more then what they say.

    We might go back to ask for a full refund from Honda. Considering the car has been at the Dodge place longer then we owned the car.

    Bottom line: Does this board think I have the right to ask for our money back.? I tried to prevent all of this by going to the Dodge dealership beforehand to ask for reports or the car. They would not do it until I was the owner.

    Please help prevent this headace with good advice.
    Mango34
    There's 2 different oil sensors. The oil pressure and the oil temperature. If the pressure sensor leaked through the connector the it will turn on the MIL. Your Honda dealer probably didn't look into the problem. They probably just cleared it before delivery and hoped it would last for a while. If it was the oil pressure switch did you get an oil pressure light on??? Rodents can chew on wires quite a bit. As long as the wires are repaired correctly and the light doesn't come back on your good. And depending on how many wires are chewed and where they are, it potentially could take some time to fix them all.
    Last edited by Tbird100636; 06-26-2008 at 12:17 AM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2
    Post Thanks / Like
    Once again thank you for the replies. It appears to be working now. Only took three days for them to go through it. It appeared to be the oil sensored..Hopefully the Dodge people did it right...

    Wow. We were able to see the Dodge Challenger...what a beautiful car, inside and out.

    Thank you once again.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •