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  1. #1
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    Cam/Head Install Library thread

    Well, I'll start this and edit as necessary. As I've searched, researched, and searched some more, I've read a ton of great informative threads on cam/head installs.

    For those making search your friend you quickly realize titles make it tough to get all the great resources....so....here it is, an attempt to put all the forum brainpower, pics and information in one in easy to find place.

    Post any other threads and I'll gladly add them.

    thanks,

    PaCharger

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    Disassembly Video

    Assembly Video

    Supplies:

    1) new oil and filter
    2) antifreeze and distilled water (+ Zerex additive for certain 6.1s)
    3) windshield washer fluid if you have a 300 with headlight squirters
    4) motor assembly lube (can use motor oil too)
    5) magnets for holding the lifters back - not needed if pulling heads too(we used Craftsman screw starters which were perfect, but pricey at $6 a piece x 16)
    6) new crankshaft bolt
    7) new cam bolt (can re-use the old one, but I figured since I was putting in a new cam, why not a new bolt too)

    If doing head swap too, you'll also need:
    1) Long head bolts or studs - (20)
    2) Short head bolts or studs - (10)
    3) Exhaust manifold/header bolts
    4) Head gaskets (2)
    5) Exhaust gaskets (2)
    6) Intake manifold gaskets (2) - may be able to re-use the old ones, but they often tear.

    TOOLS:
    Full set of metric sockets (10mm - 15mm mostly)
    Screwdrivers for clips, clamps, etc..
    Torque wrench for proper specs
    Coolant Pan
    Oil Pan & Oil filter wrench
    3/8" and 1/4" ratchets, with plenty of various extension lengths
    5/8" swivel spark plug socket
    Harmonic Balancer puller (can rent for free from auto parts stores)
    Valve Spring Compressor (can rent for free from auto parts stores)
    Plenty of Rags
    Mechanics gloves

    Parts and Part numbers
    6.1L Head Gasket (2)- 5037 592AA
    6.1L Intake Manifold Gasket (2) - 5037 503AA
    6.1L Head to block bolt primary (20) - 6506 694AA
    6.1L Head to block bolt secondary (10) - 6506 334AA
    Crank bolt (1) - 6506 340AA
    OEM 6.1L Header bolt (16) - 6503 131; Hex flange head M8x1 bolt


    TORQUE CHART 5.7L ENGINE
    DESCRIPTION Nm Ft. In.
    Lbs. Lbs.
    Block Pipe Plugs
    (1/4 NPT)
    20 — 177
    (3/8 NPT) 27 — 240
    Camshaft Sprocket—Bolt 122 90 —
    Camshaft Tensioner Plate—Bolts 28 — 250
    Timing Chain Case Cover—Bolts 28 — 250
    Lifting Stud 55 40 —
    Connecting Rod Cap—Bolts 21
    plus 90 Turn
    15
    plus 90 Turn

    Main Bearing Cap—Bolts
    M-12
    27
    plus 90 Turn
    — —
    Crossbolts
    M-8
    28 — —
    Cylinder Head—Bolts
    M-12 Bolts
    Step 1 34 25 —
    Step 2 54 40 —
    Step 3 Turn 90 Turn 90 —
    M-8 Bolts —
    Step 1 20 15 —
    Step 2 34 25 —
    Cylinder Head Cover—Bolts 8 — 70
    Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head 25 — 220
    Flexplate to crankshaft—Bolts 95 70 —
    Flywheel to crankshaft—Bolts 75 55 —
    Front Insulator—Through bolt/nut 95 70 —
    Front Insulator to Block—Bolts 95 70 —
    Generator—Mounting Bolt 55 40 —

    9 - 1530 ENGINE - 5.7L SERVICE INFORMATION
    LX

    DESCRIPTION Nm Ft. In.
    Intake Manifold—Bolts Refer to Procedure
    Lifter Guide Holder 12 — 106
    Oil Pan Bolts 12 - 105
    Oil Dipstick Tube 12 — 105
    Oil Pan—Drain Plug 27 20 —
    Oil Pump—Attaching Bolts 28 — 250
    Oil Pump Pickup Tube – Bolt and Nut 28 — 250
    Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts 15 — 132
    Rear Insulator to Bracket— 68 50 —
    Rear Insulator to Crossmember 41 30 —
    Rear Insulator to Transmission— 68 50 —
    Rear Insulator Bracket—Bolts 68 50 —
    Rocker Arm—Bolts 22 (nm)— 195 (In.lbs)
    Spark Plugs — — —
    Thermostat Housing—Bolts 28 — 250
    Throttle Body—Bolts 12 — 105
    Vibration Damper—Bolt 176 129 —
    Water Pump to Timing Chain 28 — 250
    Case Cover—Bolts

    also the downloadable Service Manual (courtesy of Factory D): https://www.lxforums.com/board/general-lx-discussion-1st-gen-2005-to-2010-/24486-service-manual-download-link.html
    Last edited by PaCharger; 11-12-2008 at 03:04 PM.
    **No Longer an LX Owner - just a crazy lurker with sign on priveleges
    Thanks fnkychkn thanked for this post
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  2. #2
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    updated first post

  3. #3
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    Seriously, one year, over 3k views, and that's the first reply? Weird. But I know it's been a huge help to folks, and I guess there's not much to say, except thanks for putting it together, Doug.

    - Click above for my HEMI Registry page -

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    hmmm, something got borked Jr...this had TONS of other stuff too. Wierd....

  5. #5
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    Yeah......missing about 50 or so posts.
    BFNY Performance
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  6. #6
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    Maybe you originally posted it in another section, and then it got copied to the KB - and that other instance is still there, and that's the one that folks have been replying to?

    That's my guess.

    EDIT: Yessir. Here's the other one: https://www.lxforums.com/board/engine-trans-and-exhaust/91603-cam-head-install-library-thread.html
    Last edited by Junior; 11-12-2008 at 03:33 PM.

  7. #7
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    This post is a big help! Thanks for posting Doug!, I hope I'm in the mid 12's this race season!
    CAM ONLY RECORD HOLDER 12.34 @108.89 & 1.66 60'
    Email mailed tuned by [email protected]Comp268cam,

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the info! I do have a question about keeping the lifters from falling on a cam only install, no head work. You said you used magnets, is there another tool that can be used? A friend of mine that messes with bowties says there is a tool that slides in to hold the lifters up while the cam is out....is he crazy?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mopar Morris View Post
    Thanks for the info! I do have a question about keeping the lifters from falling on a cam only install, no head work. You said you used magnets, is there another tool that can be used? A friend of mine that messes with bowties says there is a tool that slides in to hold the lifters up while the cam is out....is he crazy?
    Not that I heard of . But a set of magnets is cheap. So why the need for a tool? And to be honest if your quick about it you dont even need the magnets. I actually attach a drill to the cam bolt and fling the lifters up..

    But the magnets are a good safe guard..

  10. #10
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    To prevent lifters from falling u have to be quick and gentle. Once ur ready to pull cam rotate it a few times to force lifters up. (At this point push rods should be removed) Then pull cam be gentle but fast u don't wanna nick a cam bearing. Then reinstall new cam. Have new cam all oiled up and ready to go before u rotate old cam and remove. . Install at a steady speed. I use a 6 inch flat stock with a hole in it for the cam bolt to make it easier to pivot cam in place while sliding it in
    Jon
    Afterhours Mopar Performance
    *NYINSTALLER*

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  11. #11
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    Jan 2014
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    Reviving, Given a cam install, Can one set timing before removing the old cam?

    Set timing with old cam,
    remove said cam,
    install new cam,
    install (new) timing set with timing correct on it onto the engine

    Without issues? I mean, in theory it should work but in actuality, does it?
    http://www.youtube.com/c/yachtlife
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    Catless LongTubes, Mopar Exhaust, SRT MAX Cam, 20" 3-piece Adventus AVS-4, Eibach Sportline Springs, Dipped, Painted, Tinted, Decaled


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