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How much hp with a 5.7 and bolt ons?

7K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  gapi 
#1 ·
My car is completely stock. CAI I don't count because aside from the noise it made it didn't pick up sqwat. I ran a 13.89 @ 105mph with it at the track. Went there to help a friend out on a rental day and the guy running the day said I could take it for a run if I wanted to. My question is, what is the most you can extract from the 5.7 without going internal? I am curious to see what the cut off is before you have to dig internally to do cam and heads. Please list the mods you did with the dyno numbers showing your results. I'm not interested in adding NOS to the car, so please leave that off the table. This is my daily driver, so I want reliable proven mods that yield the best results. I have my alter ego on the other side of the garage if I want to jump into a 1,000hp car that runs in the 8's.
 
#2 ·
Without going internal:

15% underdrive pulley
Long tube headers
3-3200 stall converter
Custom TCM
Upgraded valve body
LSD with lower gears
Custom tune

Freeing up hp you have i.e. pulley/LTs then ta taking advantage of it i.e. higher stall/lower gears. Car will perform totally different and still be able to daily. Wheel hp 370-90 give or take.

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#3 · (Edited)
Arrington heads and cam solo x exhaust tune 387HP, 391 TQ, added a magnuson supercharger got 481 hp, 495 tq. PS that's not enough.:pepper:Hellcat block, smaller pulley, jba shorties, retune, 601 RWHP, 696 tq, with new aggressive 93 tune 645 RWHP, 735tq, with race gas tune i never got a chance to dyno it.:blam:

you can read my PB's below, all on 93 gas, no race tune or race gas.
 
#4 ·
First things first optimize your brakes.

And get a base line before mods Dyno run $75.00-100.00 so you don't have to BS yourself. Use the same dyno for after mod comparisons.

Long tube headers = 0 HP, in some cases a negative gain, unless complementing other mods like cam, head work or turbo/supercharger. I've seen before and after dyno graphs.
Under drive pulley, Dyno before and after and see. Not worth the trouble.
High stall converter = 0 HP but will launch harder and you will hate it as a daily driver and at the gas pumps.
Upgraded valve body "without" other advanced mods is a waste of cash. Your current TB is capable of flowing more than the current engine is now.
LSD with lower gears will launch harder and stay in the power better between gears. Show me dyno graphs of before and after a gear change.
CatBack exhaust, Maybe 3HP
CAI, Maybe 1 hp.

Non-bolt on?
Custom tune, Maybe 15HP max, but........ it will feel like more.
They will require a 180°F thermostat, re-calibrate your spark advance and air-fuel ratio to optimize all for 93 octane.
Also raise your current shift points to wind out higher before shifting.
Make your shifts happen faster, and firmer.
And make your throttle more responsive to foot movement.
Some torque management will be modified.
And possibly more depending on the tuner.

Argue and flame all you want but show me legit dyno graphs.
 
#5 ·
Best bang for the buck if you can do the install is a supercharger kit. You save 5 to 6K $ on the labor. I just did an Edelbrock kit, without tune, installed and Dyno tuned for7K. An honest 100HP gain that is VERY daily drivable.
I chose the Edelbrock because of the kit quality and no blower whine noise. I have a Magnuson on a truck with the whine since 2006 and like it there. Most want the whine.
There is also Whipple and Magnuson that have full kits.

Good luck
 
#6 ·
If I'm going to spend that kind of coin it would be on a turbo kit rather than a supercharger one. I have made numerous turbo kits for myself and customers on multiple platforms over the years. I can fab up everything in house. I just don't want to......lol
Having 2 money pits is a recipe for disaster. Been down that road before and trying not to play that game again. It's a losing proposition.
 
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