Are these of any real performance value or just a case of trying to make yourself feel better? I've searched here and elsewhere for a dyno sheet/time slip to verify this mod. It's a lot of tedious work, fraught with peril, (broken studs), if all it yields is 3 HP.
If you can find 6.4 manifolds and mid pipes they are a direct bolt on for a 16 5.7 R/T. I needed new bolts and went with 6.4 gaskets but my dipstick bolted up and all 4 O2 sensors reached and worked perfectly. Here in Maryland we use California emissions standards and my car recently passed its emissions testing too. Long tubes here can be a problem in this department as well as the road hazzard issues. Took me 8 hours to install them in my garage laying on the floor. Bring help, my arms were rubber when almost done.
Me... I stay away from the welded up exhaust as I have a tendency to have to remove the whole exhaust or parts to do some other mod or maintenance. I also use the good quality band clamps form my slip joints.
Example.. Had a rattle on my 10 Challenger after about 6 months. Started at the manifolds and loosened up all the nuts, bolts, clamps etc and move the exhaust around and got rid of the rattle.
I say it every time, spend the extra and get head gaskets and pull the heads. Exhaust done in half the time and your not working under the car and can actually torque the exhaust headers to spec.
I say it every time, spend the extra and get head gaskets and pull the heads. Exhaust done in half the time and your not working under the car and can actually torque the exhaust headers to spec.
Tuned length would need to measure the exhaust gas velocity vs the exhaust timing and calculate the length of head pipe to create a vacuum and pull exhaust gasses from the cylinder, I doubt the 6-8” header inside a srt manifold would be sufficient length to do so or we wouldn’t have long tubes.
Tuned length would need to measure the exhaust gas velocity vs the exhaust timing and calculate the length of head pipe to create a vacuum and pull exhaust gasses from the cylinder, I doubt the 6-8" header inside a srt manifold would be sufficient length to do so or we wouldn't have long tubes.
You guys have me thinking as intimidating as it sounds maybe I'll just remove the heads to do the SRT header/mids install. Seems like a major PITA doing the job w the heads still on.
As long as the heads are off maybe I'll put a new cam in at the same time.
Does anyone happen to know if there is an upgraded cam that wouldn't require headwork (springs or lifters or whatever) and is CA emissions ok?
You guys have me thinking as intimidating as it sounds maybe I'll just remove the heads to do the SRT header/mids install. Seems like a major PITA doing the job w the heads still on.
As long as the heads are off maybe I'll put a new cam in at the same time.
Does anyone happen to know if there is an upgraded cam that wouldn't require headwork (springs or lifters or whatever) and is CA emissions ok?
From looking at the intake duration @.050 the 270 Comp Cam looks like it should have about a 2200-2500 stall converter. Unless duration figures work differently for HEMI engines as opposed to Chevy and real Pontiac engines. I was considering the 270 myself but the intake duration @.050 has me worried. I think to stay on the safe side I'm going to go with the 268 grind from Comp Cams. The duration @.050 on the intake side being a few degrees less then the 270 should mean it won't want/need a stall converter.
Has anyone experience with the 270 cam and no stall converter? It's getting 3.07 gears here in a few weeks but I'd rather not run a stall on my daily driver. Too much heat for the transmission in the stop and go traffic around Baltimore and DC.
I'm a newb to all this hemi header talk. I can't seem to find Kook style long tube headers for the 05 and up - 5.7L on eBay, just JBA and BBK and I think both fall short on equal length IMHO. I just looked for headers on FastHemis and they seem to have an incredible selection of headers, but wow are they expensive. Just a FYI...
Wishful thinking, I was hoping to buy a set of 6.1L 'Kook style" headers and install them on my 5.7L with the idea that they would swap over in the future, if I ever upgrade my heads to the 6.1's for better air flow (vs porting and machining).
I don't believe Kooks (directly) sell their products by-way of eBay. There may be some Vendors though that do. Also look at the Vendor Forum on here for those who sell Kooks.
Kooks indeed are expensive units; FWIW, no one builds higher quality units for the Hemi. There are certainly other Manufacturers who produce similar headers that cost less. The key / minimum desirable requirements do not change; equal length primaries, proper flange shape to match exhaust ports with minimum flange thickness for stability / durability, cone exit fairings, quality collector flanges and last but not least - properly sized for engine displacement (very important - bigger not better) and existing / future PWR adders.
The amount of labor involved versus actual HP / TQ gains, on NA engines longtube headers are by-far preferable :^)
You can put 6.1 headers/exhaust manifolds on your pre eagle 5.7 relatively easily. You'll pretty much need 6.1 mids though, and then you need to think about a 3" cat-back or go with a way to reduce it to the stock cat-back. If you are thinking a possible head swap at some point I would highly recommend saving up and doing headers, heads, and a cam all at the same time. You will save yourself a ton of time and money in the long run if you do it all at the same time.
If thinking 6.1 heads you can do 5.7 eagle heads/intake for less money at about the same performance level (although that's maybe debatable). A lot of people have done that swap so there is a lot of info out there about it.
It's a slippery slope !
2006 Magnum RT, eagle heads, 6.1 cam, 6.4 intake, SRT headers, Magnaflow catback, custom tune, SRT rims... and more
I bet you have always wondered about those eBay headers
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