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  1. #1
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    Cooling System Purge Valve...

    Here's a nifty device that will do away with the 1/4" NPT HEX plug that can be very difficult to remove from the upper / front face of the water pump housing;



    They are manufactured by Swagelok, cost approximately 12 bucks, and can be ordered and / or purchased from a local Swageloc dealer. The part number for the unit you see is; S-4P-4M (carbon steel, 1/4" male NPT, steel check ball).

    Here's the catalog page; http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/we...n/MS-01-62.pdf

    I almost bought the B-series, S-BVM-4 version which has a T- handle and spigot to attach a drain hose. But at approximately 40 bucks it was serious overkill. What I like about the S-series unit I did buy is it can be hand-tightened, which is indeed adequate. But if you're concerned, you can tweak it with a 5/8" open end.

    If you look closely at the above pic, you can see the small drain hole just to the left of the righthand HEX next to the knurled portion on the cap. That cap is never removed (it's swaged onto the base), you simply unscrew the cap slightly and out comes the air. Another nice thing about the size of that bleed hole is that air comes out very quickly, but once coolant is present it barely dribbles out. No mess to speak of.

    Finally where it counts - racing; either road course or the drag strip, you can actually bleed while the system is hot without fear of scoulding.

    Important; always (without exception) use TEFLON tape on any NPT thread structure prior to install.

    Although both styles are available in 316 stainless steel, it would be prudent to choose the carbon steel version. Because there is galvanic action present between the valve itself, the coolant and the aluminum water pump housing, carbon steel offers the least amount of electrolysis;



    The above is a very simplified version of the galvanic scale, but you get the idea. The closer alloys are together on the galvanic scale, in this case steel is to aluminum compared to stainless steel the less galvanic action.

    Why is this so important you ask; in simple terms its the ongoing minute electrical conductivity (galvanic action) between unlike metals that causes them to physically react and seize together. With coolant present, this action is magnitudes worse, hence why it's so difficult at times to get that pesky HEX drive NPT plug out to properly bleed the coolant system of air.

    Addendum;
    Prior to refill the proper(!) way to remove trapped air from the cooling system on these platforms is to first remove the NPT plug located on the upper / front water pump housing which is the highest point in the cooling system.
    Otherwise, air trapped within the engine will cause immediate overheating and boilover. The factory installs the NPT plug during system fill for the first time, after which there is no requirement to purge again.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 01-13-2020 at 01:36 AM.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

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  2. #2
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    I decided I am taking my 2010 Police Charger to mechanic for coolant flush, and printed him the instructions you so kindly linked for me. I take it you would recommend I bring him this part too? Things have to be dummied down for me, lol. Thanks.

  3. #3
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    Forgot the installed pic;


  4. #4
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    Found the stainless version on eBay, but couldn't find the carbon steel anywhere online (other than Swagelok themselves) - so I just placed an order for 4 of them with my local dealer; about a week for stocking. $12.44/ea. No minimum order but I figured if she's gonna bother, I'll get a couple extra.

    Thanks for the tip!

    Richard
    06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChargerPursuit View Post
    I decided I am taking my 2010 Police Charger to mechanic for coolant flush, and printed him the instructions you so kindly linked for me. I take it you would recommend I bring him this part too? Things have to be dummied down for me, lol. Thanks.
    Your welcome, personal choice I suggest :^)

    I can tell you the OEM NPT pipe tapered thread structure the water pumps / plug use was originally designed as a one-time installation process for other things (like water / natural gas piping), in other words anything other than periodic removal / retightening (as in recommended coolant service intervals and the odd hose failure) is not wise.

    By installing this P-series purge valve, you no longer mess with the NPT thread structure but rather loosen / tighten machine threaded structures that are actually designed for just this purpose.

    Note: here's a tip for removing the OEM NPT HEX plug. Make sure to use a 1/4" ALLEN key that is not rounded. After ensuring the ALLEN key is fully inserted into the NPT plug, use a small hammer and rap the long arm of the ALLEN key to initially break the plug loose. Like I mentioned previously, if proper lubricant Like TEFLON tape was not used prior to installation the plug and aluminum thread structures may have begun the process of marrying each other...with the coolant ordaining the act :^)
    Last edited by Hemissary; 09-06-2015 at 01:00 PM.

  6. #6
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    Nice find Simon. I had a laugh when you said $ 40 was overkill then you post your engine bay.

    inTune 91 CAI, 180 stat, BB 6dB reso delete,Tranzformer, MDS indicator, ESP/BAS switch. Wire mesh grille, smoked and flashing side markers, 9005 2400k 65W fogs, rear fogs, debadged and demolded, 245/45/20 and 295/40/20 Continental DW's on 9"/10" F/R Viper Replicas, BCR Coilovers, Drake strut brace. Interior accent LED 's. 55/35 tint, BT catch can. LED interior lighting. BT bling, front parking sensors. Rear seat heaters. Color matched tails "MoPar" puddle lights. Custom front lip.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montreal300 View Post
    Nice find Simon. I had a laugh when you said $ 40 was overkill then you post your engine bay.
    <grin> but but...ah never mind


    Anyone notice another mod I did during the engine build that removes a useless eyesore?
    Last edited by Hemissary; 09-02-2015 at 11:30 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Your welcome, personal choice I suggest :^)

    I can tell you the OEM NPT pipe tapered thread structure the water pumps / plug use was originally designed as a one-time installation process, in other words anything other than periodic removal / retightening (as in recommended coolant service intervals and the odd hose failure) is not wise.

    By installing this P-series purge valve, you no longer mess with the NPT thread structure but rather loosen / tighten machine threaded structures that are actually designed for just this purpose.

    Note: here's a tip for removing the OEM NPT HEX plug. Make sure to use a 1/4" ALLEN key that is not rounded. After ensuring the ALLEN key is fully inserted into the NPT plug, use a small hammer and rap the long arm of the ALLEN key to initially break the plug loose. Like I mentioned previously, if proper lubricant Like TEFLON tape was not used prior to installation the plug and aluminum thread structures may have begun the process of marrying each other...with the coolant ordaining the act :^)
    Excellent info, thank you. Sounds like it's a "must do" for me!
    Last edited by ChargerPursuit; 09-02-2015 at 08:11 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Here's a nifty device that will do away with the 1/4" NPT HEX plug that can be very difficult to remove from the upper / front face of the water pump housing;



    They are manufactured by Swageloc, cost approximately 12 bucks, and can be ordered and / or purchased from a local Swageloc dealer. The part number for the unit you see is; S-4P-4M (carbon steel, 1/4" male NPT, steel check ball).

    Here's the catalog page; http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/we...n/MS-01-62.pdf

    I almost bought the B-series, S-BVM-4 version which has a T- handle and spigot to attach a drain hose. But at approximately 40 bucks it was serious overkill. What I like about the S-series unit I did buy is you can hand-tighten it, which is indeed adequate. But if you're concerned you can tweak it with a 5/8" open end.

    If you look closely at the above pic, you can see the small drain hole just to the left of the righthand HEX next to the knurled portion on the cap. That cap is never removed (it's swaged onto the base), you simply unscrew the cap slightly and out comes the air. Another nice thing about the size of that bleed hole is that air comes out very quickly, but once coolant is present it barely dribbles out. No mess to speak of.

    Finally where it counts - racing; either road course or the drag strip, you can actually bleed while the system is hot without fear of scoulding.

    Important; always (without exception) use TEFLON tape on any NPT thread structure prior to install.

    Although both styles are available in 316 stainless steel, it would be prudent to choose the carbon steel version. Because there is galvanic action present between the valve itself, the coolant and the aluminum water pump housing, carbon steel offers the least amount of electrolysis;



    The above is a very simplified version of the galvanic scale, but you get the idea. The closer alloys are together, in this case carbon or stainless steel verses aluminum, the less galvanic action.

    Why is this so important you ask; in simple terms its the minute electrical conduction ( galvanic action) between unlike metals that causes them to physically react and seize together. With coolant present, this action is magnitudes worse, hence why it's so difficult at times to get that pesky HEX drive NPT plug out to properly bleed the coolant system of air.

    Addendum;
    Prior to refill the proper(!) way to remove trapped air from the cooling system on these platforms is to first remove the NPT plug located on the upper / front water pump housing which is the highest point in the cooling system.
    Otherwise, air trapped within the engine will cause immediate overheating and boilover. The factory installs the NPT plug during system fill for the first time, after which there is no requirement to purge again.
    This is perfect. Just today i was thinking that i needed a good plug so i could bleed the system easier when ill get around to changing the coolant.

    Then you show up with the perfect solution and explain it in details. You rock man!

    Now i have to find how to get one of these without having to drive like 8 hours to get to the nearest dealer.
    Last edited by Bacfire; 09-02-2015 at 10:37 PM.
    2006 Chrysler 300c Awdsome, Intune I-1000 - Johan Custom Tooned - Afe StageII CAI - 180t stat - Corsa Sport Catback - JBA Catted Mids - NoEsp - Coolit - Tranzformer - Blue Tops - KillerGlass - BT Catch Can - Egr Delete - Triple Pod (2x AFR, 1 Trans temp) - HID (Low,High,Fogs,Reverse) - DGS Stage 4 Grounding Kit. And many more to come!

  10. #10
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    My nearest dealer is about 3 hours away. I am going to call tomorrow and see if they'll ship If I buy a few.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChargerPursuit View Post
    Excellent info, thank you. Sounds like it's a "must do" for me!
    I think it depends on how often the cooling system will be diddled with; but from the POV of having to remove those NPT plugs and it seems people somehow stripping the HEX, this device would be valuable.

    Those who race, especially road course like me, this purge valve would be very valuable.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bacfire View Post
    This is perfect. Just today i was thinking that i needed a good plug so i could bleed the system easier when ill get around to changing the coolant.

    Then you show up with the perfect solution and explain it in details. You rock man!

    Now i have to find how to get one of these without having to drive like 8 hours to get to the nearest dealer.
    Well thanks :^)
    Last edited by Hemissary; 01-02-2020 at 08:02 PM.

  12. #12
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    Nice, and being that my mother works for them I guess it will be free! You guys should check out the other things they make fitting wise, they have the best stuff period.

    Also its Swagelok with a k.
    Likes Hemissary liked this post

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post



    Anyone notice another mod I did during the engine build that removes a useless eyesore?
    Yep Simon. Nice job on removing the structure behind and above the water pump that has the bolt that BT's oil catch can mounts to. What was that used for, anyway?
    Cheers.

    When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
    My friends call me JONN (usually).


  14. #14
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    An attachment point to lift the engine. I like your temp gauge too!
    2005 MAGNUM R/T
    JBA headers, Blastin Bobs 9db pipes,, Stack Performance strut brace, Stack performance chubby sway bars ,SRT springs ,Bilstein struts & shocks, Getrag 3.91,, Cams solid rear cradle bushings, Blue Tops, BT Catch Can. Other BT goodies.
    2012 Challenger 392 SRT (Wife)

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAGFX View Post
    Yep Simon. Nice job on removing the structure behind and above the water pump that has the bolt that BT's oil catch can mounts to. What was that used for, anyway?
    Cheers.
    Quote Originally Posted by m37ral View Post
    An attachment point to lift the engine. I like your temp gauge too!
    You and Jonn are right, I think Jonn (thanks) noticed the mod last time I mentioned it :^D That engine extraction flange is butt-ugly IMO...

    Those adhesive-based temperature strips are pretty handy :^)
    Last edited by Hemissary; 09-08-2015 at 12:55 AM.

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