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Lift / Jack Pads for Front Pinch Welds

22K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  JETBLU392 
#1 ·
Found 2 different ones on the ZL1addons site....one magnetic metal used on jack....
and one attaches permanently to pinch weld on underside of car.
Looks like a good idea....except for the Note: "Some 2017+ Chargers will require the bolt-on pad to be move forward to have 100% contact with the pinch weld. This will require cutting of the underside of the rocker panel so the jack would have clearance."
Anyone have them?

 
#5 ·
I'm curious; what's wrong with using the OEM jacking points just inside the flange?
 
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#6 · (Edited)
During my newbness last year with these cars, I purchased the ZL1 jack pad adapter and it gets "sketchy" when lifting on the pinch weld if you're not careful/paying attention. There is a curved, raised/ribbed part of the metal near the pinch weld and therefore the pad doesn't sit flat and wants to turn a little. And when you lift up it wants to buck out even more, and "could" slide off IMO.

I "confronted" ZL1 with the issue and showed them pictures and they said that it's not an issue with the pad bending out sideways and refused to take them back even though they had a warranty/guarantee or something. Way to stand behind their (unsafe) product.

PICS:
zl1-2 by snobrdrdan, on Flickr

zl1 by snobrdrdan, on Flickr

zl1-3 by snobrdrdan, on Flickr

zl1-5 by snobrdrdan, on Flickr

zl1-4 by snobrdrdan, on Flickr

Use the OEM lifting/jack points instead, like Simon suggested, BUT you'll need a long jack to reach under there....something like this, for example:


https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton...sional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-green-64785.html
 
#8 · (Edited)
Guys; there's no requirement for a deep floor jack. The pockets you see in the image below are jacking points. The protruding pucks molded into the plastic covers are also secure jack points. In the pic below, the hoist arms are actually using the rearward plastic pucks:



Regular hockey pucks can be used that sit on top of the jack pad to reach up into those hard points. The lower body seams (pinch weld) were never designed to be used as hard points on our platforms.
 
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#16 ·
No hockey puck currently, but I use something similar shape/size - a heavy duty plastic caster wheel pirated from a Go-Jak. Sometimes it will wedge itself in the pocket but it's easy to pop it out by hand; slight interference fit. One of these days I'll pick up another hockey puck as I do feel better about a more solid object for this purpose.

Richard
 
#9 · (Edited)
My car does not have any of those points on them. What year is the car you used in that image? There are no plastic covers in the underside of my vehicle. I do have pucks in the rear mounted to the car but not in the front.

From the Factory Service Manual:

HOISTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING

1 - FRAME CONTACT LIFT (SINGLE POST)
1 - CHASSIS LIFT (DUAL LIFT)
1 - OUTBOARD LIFT (DUAL LIFT)
1 - FLOOR JACK
2 - DRIVE ON HOIST

Refer to Owner's Manual provided with vehicle for proper emergency jacking procedures.

WARNING:
The hoisting and jack lifting points provided are for a complete vehicle. When the engine or rear suspension is removed from a vehicle, the center of gravity is altered making some hoisting conditions unstable. Properly support or secure
vehicle to hoisting device when these conditions exist. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious or fatal injury.

CAUTION:
Do not position hoisting device on any suspension component, including the front or rear suspension crossmembers. Do not hoist on the front and rear bumpers, the lower radiator cross member, or the front engine mount.
Do not attempt to raise one entire side of the vehicle by placing a floor jack midway between the front and rear wheels. This practice may result in permanent damage to the body. When properly positioned, a floor jack can be used to lift the vehicle and support the raised vehicle with jack stands. A floor jack or any lifting device must never be used on any part of the underbody other than the described areas.
 
#10 · (Edited)
No idea what year; looks like an 09'+ LC 6spd but still sporting a Getrag. My point is - those same pockets are on all platforms, regardless of plastic shields or not.

Those caution statements are no-brainers - not really relevant to this discussion (I surely hope) of the multiple locations that are jacking point friendly. Logic tells us there's many more hard points - if one knows / understands what they are looking at. For example:
- frame pockets - just inside lower body molding
- front K member in front of the inner swaybar mounts
- front K member - anywhere along the center / lower beam
- anywhere along the front / lower control arms
- differential (anywhere)
- rear spring links (anywhere)
- anywhere along that mid / forward lower rail as shown in the pic I posted (the forward hoist position)

Over the years, I've used all of the above at one time or another. Mainly I use those frame pockets that reside just inside - front and rear with aluminum 3" pucks I machined that sandwich between the body and the floor jack saddle. I would never consider using the body seams on these platforms. This is not the olden days of GM / Ford; just because some entity offers them for sale - does not mean they should be used.
 
#11 ·
I have the permanent install ZL1 pads on my 06, had to trim the opening in the side skirt to fit my car as they were designed for 2015+ models

They work good and are hidden from view unless you are really looking for them, my advise is just be sure to Loctite on the set screws
 
#12 · (Edited)
So there's some issues with what you said when it comes to 2015+ cars.

1. That mount point does not exist in the front for me, evidence (photo of underneath of my front):



As you can see the owner prior to me tried using the pinch weld with a jack...

2. The triangle is the correct location for any jack on these cars. Anything else has the potential to damage the body. Hence the need for a low profile long arm jack.



3. Can't speak for anyone but me, but in my rear there is already a nice peg provided from the factory, why use a hockey puck on the red circle in the rear?:





4. Jacking from a diff with aluminum fins is a no no as well. Do you really want to risk the chance of bending them? This was on the hellcat, challenger and charger forums. A cast diff, sure but not this one.

Well I've said what I've wanted to, good luck op, PM me if you have more questions. Also taking these photos made me wish I didn't scrape on the god awful Maryland speed bumps improperly installed everywhere...
 
#14 ·
Jacking from a diff with aluminum fins is a no no
The point should be to exercise common sense; one could pile a bunch of cars on top...the aluminum diff housing would not even know the difference...let alone bend the cast fin structure.
 
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#13 ·
That plate in your first pic is more than thick enough to lift from with your floor jack. It's what I've used for 3 years (3 sets of wheels, 6.5 sets of tires) lol

Now, one side had been removed on my car to route the fuel lines, but even my little Harbor Freight aluminum jack can reach the triangle mark...and it's a stubby little jack.


Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
even my little Harbor Freight aluminum jack can reach the triangle mark...and it's a stubby little jack
I have the HF low profile 3 ton jack, not the long reach jack, and it comes close to contacting the side skirts is my issue...when trying to reach the triangle mark.
Now if I drive up on some blocks, under the front wheels, then it'll clear okay.
 
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