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  1. #1
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    Break in oil recommendation and procedure

    I'm just about to finish installing a 6.2 hc short block onto my 2015 scat pack along with a new comp cam, ati pulley, edelbrock intake, mds delete, gasket matched ported heads, long tube headers, catless mids and d1x procharger. Really would like to know thoughts on break in oil and procedure.20190206_094753.jpg

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  2. #2
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    I have a similar build . HC short block,Ray Barton cam, D1X etc. changed oil after it came off dyno and again at 1,000 mile. still using Pennzoil 0W40 but thinking of using a 5W40 on next change.
    Last edited by MXS67454; 02-11-2019 at 12:11 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MXS67454 View Post
    I have a similar build . HC short block,Ray Barton cam, D1X etc. changed oil after it came off dyno and again at 1,000 mile. still using Pennzoil 0W40 but thinking of using a 5W40 on next change.
    So how many lbs of boost are you running and what kinda power are you getting? And no issue with breaking in running a synthetic oil with no zinc?

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4doormopar View Post
    So how many lbs of boost are you running and what kinda power are you getting? And no issue with breaking in running a synthetic oil with no zinc?

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    No issues.. these engines come with/break in with synthetic when new (as do many others ) limited zinc in current oils is an issue for flat tappets but not rollers. I'm at 11.7 PSI @6400 made 765 whp with stock fuel system and BAP .was out of fuel at that point. doing a Fore system and smaller pulley and a built HP70 over winter so whp will go up some.
    Last edited by MXS67454; 02-11-2019 at 12:36 AM.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MXS67454 View Post
    No issues.. these engines come with/break in with synthetic when new (as do many others ) limited zinc in current oils is an issue for flat tappets but not rollers. I'm at 11.7 PSI @6400 made 765 whp with stock fuel system and BAP .was out of fuel at that point. doing a Fore system and smaller pulley and a built HP70 over winter so whp will go up some.
    Is it cheaper to build a 70 as opposed to buying a 90?

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunwalker12 View Post
    Is it cheaper to build a 70 as opposed to buying a 90?

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    Yes , the built 70 was a little over 2k cheaper than the 90 conversion plus my current DSS driveshaft would not fit so add another 1k for that. my car should end up 800-825 whp and I was prepared to get the 90 but Chuck at Hell Raiser said it's not needed until about 950whp. He has a built 70 behind a 1350whp boost/spray 6.4 as a test car and it's still alive..
    Last edited by MXS67454; 02-11-2019 at 09:39 AM.

  7. #7
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    How much does a built 70 run? Does it change the feeling of the trans when driving?

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  8. #8
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    Let's not hijack OP's thread further. start a thread or PM me.

  9. #9
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    When I did my engine I used break in oil. Was it a waist. Who knows. I read more and more about zinc content is low in oils due to api certain unless you buy a none api oil

    It won’t hurt let’s put it that way. Personally I would do it run a couple hundred miles and drain it


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4doormopar View Post
    I'm just about to finish installing a 6.2 hc short block onto my 2015 scat pack along with a new comp cam, ati pulley, edelbrock intake, mds delete, gasket matched ported heads, long tube headers, catless mids and d1x procharger. Really would like to know thoughts on break in oil and procedure.20190206_094753.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    If the rings are new, use conventional 10W30, NOT a synthetic!! You want the rings to conform to the cylind4ers walls as quickly as possible. They will find their own point of equilibrium as a result. Using a synthetic interferes with this process to the point that the rings and the walls polish each other without achieving proper sealing. This is one of the most important aspects of a newly-built engine start-up.

    If the rings / cylinders have not been touched, use your regular replacement oil. Avoid break-in oil...its a gimmick. Especially those touting high zinc content which has nothing to do with our engines and everything to do with the SM Chevy camshaft / lifter (inherent) interface design issue (especially when flat tappets have been installed).

    Essentially, you have no need for any sort of break-in process given the Hemi employs roller-based lifters.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    If the rings are new, use conventional 10W30, NOT a synthetic!! You want the rings to conform to the cylind4ers walls as quickly as possible. They will find their own point of equilibrium as a result. Using a synthetic interferes with this process to the point that the rings and the walls polish each other without achieving proper sealing. This is one of the most important aspects of a newly-built engine start-up.

    If the rings / cylinders have not been touched, use your regular replacement oil. Avoid break-in oil...its a gimmick. Especially those touting high zinc content which has nothing to do with our engines and everything to do with the SM Chevy camshaft / lifter (inherent) interface design issue (especially when flat tappets have been installed).

    Essentially, you have no need for any sort of break-in process given the Hemi employs roller-based lifters.
    Would this possibly lead to excessive oil consumption? Among other issues obviously.

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tikibeast View Post
    Would this possibly lead to excessive oil consumption? Among other issues obviously.

    Galactus hungers...
    Very much so if the rings have not properly seated themselves.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Very much so if the rings have not properly seated themselves.
    How is it that so many of today's engines are born with Synthetic oil but don't use oil when new ? what is different ?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MXS67454 View Post
    How is it that so many of today's engines are born with Synthetic oil but don't use oil when new ? what is different ?
    See if you can guess :^)


  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    See if you can guess :^)

    Well in the case of the OP's 6.2 short block it's not the rings..unless it's an aftermarket short block. don't play guess the number...explain.

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