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  1. #136
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by diboblo View Post
    Doooood... Centric rotors are $235, each! I've seen OEM rotors as much as $1500 each.Been running Brembo pads since new. I'm switching to Z26 pads, this time around. Overall, I'm skeptical about them, but we'll see. Ceramics have let me down, on my other SRT Charger, so...Those rotor hat bolts are set to a very mild torque spec. DO NOT let them tighten them. They aren't meant to be gorilla tight. I'll update this thread, with my results.BobLux Technologies - LuX Technologies - Custom Interior Light Mods for Chrysler / Dodge / Jeep Platforms [LX/LC/WK]
    cool good to know... if I need rotors... $400 vs $3000 is a no brainer lol. I did NOT let them tighten them and I did check them myself based on the specs I found around here.. I didn't loosen and then tighten them but I did check to see if they were at least as tight as the spec... perhaps they are somehow too tight from factory? Maybe next time I have the car up I'll loosen and re tighten them myself, guess it can't hurt assuming we have the right spec... any way to confirm the correct spec on that? I know it was mentioned here before would just want to be sure before i touch them that it's fully confirmed correct. worth a last try I guess
    '19 Scat Pack F8 Green; '18 Audi SQ5 Daytona Grey '18 Daytona 392; 16 Scat Pack Granite; '15 Durango R/T Blacktop '14 Volvo S60R Rebel Blue; '12 Audi Q5; '10 Mustang; '08 E90 M3; '07 335I Active Autowerks ...



  2. #137
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Riverside, California
    Posts
    4,022
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    Well, I tore into the car, yesterday.

    On the front hubs, I found the typical rust, around the center raised hub ring, and on the flat plane that the rotor sits against. I took an aggressive steel wire brush and removed the scaling and surface rust from the mating surface of each front rotor. I cleaned the back side of each rotor hat (new Centric's) and installed.

    I bedded the brakes, this morning and put almost 100 miles on the car, today. No clicking, squeaking, or adverse symptoms.

    I'll keep this thread updated with my findings. This is my daily driver, so after a week, I'll have a good amount of miles logged, at differing speeds and stopping action.

    On Saturday, I'll post my results. Keep in mind, that after 52k, with all OEM components, I had zero clicking. Just reporting in with my findings, so far.

    Bob
    I spend my time modding your lights and developing new products, not being your FaceBook friend.

    http://www.luxte.ch
    Lux Technologies


  3. #138
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    13,245
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    Quote Originally Posted by diboblo View Post
    Well, I tore into the car, yesterday.

    On the front hubs, I found the typical rust, around the center raised hub ring, and on the flat plane that the rotor sits against. I took an aggressive steel wire brush and removed the scaling and surface rust from the mating surface of each front rotor. I cleaned the back side of each rotor hat (new Centric's) and installed.

    I bedded the brakes, this morning and put almost 100 miles on the car, today. No clicking, squeaking, or adverse symptoms.

    I'll keep this thread updated with my findings. This is my daily driver, so after a week, I'll have a good amount of miles logged, at differing speeds and stopping action.

    On Saturday, I'll post my results. Keep in mind, that after 52k, with all OEM components, I had zero clicking. Just reporting in with my findings, so far.

    Bob
    This is one of those problems I read about that lingers...

    did you have clicking prior Bob (can't recall)? If so, what do you think you did that altered it?
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

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