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  1. #46
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    Jun 2019
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    Alexandria, VA
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    Just bought a hellcat lower airbox and grill air tube for my ‘16 R/T. I’ll report back once installed. Steve white parts is selling the items as a kit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums
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  2. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    3,181
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16PCRT View Post
    Just bought a hellcat lower airbox and grill air tube for my ‘16 R/T. I’ll report back once installed. Steve white parts is selling the items as a kit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums
    How much did you pay ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
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    There are two options and to be honest I’m not sure of the difference. I asked Josh which would fit
    my car and he sent me the link below. All in with a discount it was around $130.00

    Charger Hellcat Intake Ram Inlet Cold Air Intake Box & Duct Functional OEM Mopar (SWMHCCHARGERINBOX) | Steve White Parts
    Last edited by 16PCRT; 08-23-2019 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Spelling

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Posts
    128
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    Hellcat lower box and airtube here as well. I also got mine for a similar price from Steve White.
    Paul
    16 Charger Scat Pack
    HC airbox/tube, catch can, 19 grille, Ikon Rear Diffuser, Vertini RF 1.3 20x10/20x11, Tazer


  5. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    13
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    Just finished the hellcat lower intake box and ram air tube. Overall, the install was relatively easy but required some light trimming to get the radiator cover piece to clear the R/T grill and allow the bumper to sit flush. The interior of the box is so much smoother and appears to allow better flow. I can’t really feel a difference, but I am still running the standard mopar air filter. I plan to order the much better flowing hellcat filter and install next week.



    IMG_0981.JPGIMG_0982.JPGIMG_0984.JPG


    16 PCRT

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Riverside, California
    Posts
    4,438
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16PCRT View Post
    Just finished the hellcat lower intake box and ram air tube. Overall, the install was relatively easy but required some light trimming to get the radiator cover piece to clear the R/T grill and allow the bumper to sit flush. The interior of the box is so much smoother and appears to allow better flow. I can’t really feel a difference, but I am still running the standard mopar air filter. I plan to order the much better flowing hellcat filter and install next week.



    IMG_0981.JPGIMG_0982.JPGIMG_0984.JPG


    16 PCRT
    Here's one if the best filters, for that airbox:

    Green Filter - Part #7139


    Bob
    LuX Technologies - Custom Interior Light Mods for Chrysler / Dodge / Jeep Platforms [LX/LC/WK]
    I spend my time modding your lights and developing new products, not being your FaceBook friend.

    http://www.luxte.ch
    Lux Technologies

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  7. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    South Jersey
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    For those that have the hellcat intake...what temps are you recording...specifically when outside temps are running 70+.

    I'm noticing on my stock intake, with the dropin k&n filter, temps are running about 15 deg hotter. I know that the ground is probly a bit warmer. Dont know why its pulling up that much heat. Correct me if I'm wrong but the default air intake location is by the front driver wheel?

    Former owner of a Ram 1500, Current owner of a Dodge charger scat pack, possible future owner of a jeep gladiator.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    50
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    Quote Originally Posted by arod412 View Post
    For those that have the hellcat intake...what temps are you recording...specifically when outside temps are running 70+.

    I'm noticing on my stock intake, with the dropin k&n filter, temps are running about 15 deg hotter. I know that the ground is probly a bit warmer. Dont know why its pulling up that much heat. Correct me if I'm wrong but the default air intake location is by the front driver wheel?

    Former owner of a Ram 1500, Current owner of a Dodge charger scat pack, possible future owner of a jeep gladiator.
    Anytime I'm at 40mph or higher, I think the best I'm able to get is 4-5 degrees above ambient (after I've reached operating temps).

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    South Jersey
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    What cold air intake is everyone running?

    Quote Originally Posted by jcthome View Post
    Anytime I'm at 40mph or higher, I think the best I'm able to get is 4-5 degrees above ambient (after I've reached operating temps).

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    Thanks. I’m just doing a comparison to see when it comes to a Cai, what is more important, how much air it brings into the engine, or air temp.

    I’m going to guess that for us non turbo/supercharged engine, the air temp is more important..so filter placement where the air is getting sucked in )is import. You would think that having the air intake on the lower, bottom side of the car is key, but you are also sucking in warmer air...especially if your on a asphalt ground where the ground air is probly 20 degrees hotter.

    Just food for thought.


    16 Dodge Charger scat pack

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Lillington, NC
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    210
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    Quote Originally Posted by arod412 View Post
    Thanks. I’m just doing a comparison to see when it comes to a Cai, what is more important, how much air it brings into the engine, or air temp.

    I’m going to guess that for us non turbo/supercharged engine, the air temp is more important..so filter placement where the air is getting sucked in )is import. You would think that having the air intake on the lower, bottom side of the car is key, but you are also sucking in warmer air...especially if your on a asphalt ground where the ground air is probly 20 degrees hotter.

    Just food for thought.


    16 Dodge Charger scat pack
    They are both equally important, too many turns the air has to make can cause turbulence which can alter MAF and IAT readings...increasing air temperature lowers air density which causes the engine to pull timing. There has to be both for an intake to perform properly.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
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    Lmi or a custom copy of lmi are the only true cold air intakes. Tried and true. This is mine :6”x9” dry filter
    4”x6” velocity stack
    4” universal air raid kit.
    all connections/transitions are butted, sanded ,and smoothed internally all the way from filter to the 88mm TB. Then wrapped in heat reflecting tape. Temps while moving or before heat soak(keep in mind I run a 6.1 ported manifold so the aluminum holds heat) are within 3* of ambient and flow is most definitely superior any other cai that I know of including the oem/hellcat lower mod.





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  12. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Old Hickory, TN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunwalker12 View Post
    They are both equally important, too many turns the air has to make can cause turbulence which can alter MAF and IAT readings...increasing air temperature lowers air density which causes the engine to pull timing. There has to be both for an intake to perform properly.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    Our engines do not use MAF.

    There are two factors in play that will affect performance as related to the air intake. Flow and Temperature.

    When the test team originally was testing CAI's back in 2005 and 2006, the focus was on flow as the stock intakes were perceived to be restrictive. In testing, they found that was the case and that some aftermarket intakes were indeed less restrictive than others, the best being the AirHammer and the AFE II. The tests did indeed show an increase in HP relative to stock. The tests were pretty well designed and the temperature factor was held constant.

    As time passed and everyone became more familiar with the LX's, it became more apparent that Intake Air Temperature was very critical to achieving maximum HP from the Hemi's. The early attempts at "true" CAI's that were tested proved to be restrictive in those early tests. As more experience has been gained and knowledge acquired, it has become clear that IAT's were more important than flow at higher ambient temps, roughly anything above 65*. The computer pulls timing as the IAT increases above 60* or so. Thus, running at 90* ambient causes a power loss and the short ram intakes don't help, typically causing a further 20* to 30* increase in IAT's. The increases are maximized in city traffic and reduced for highway driving, but you can't get IAT's below ambient.

    Now, my opinion on this situation and I think I have some reasonable credentials to express that opinion. I did the first testing of intake temperatures back in Dec 2004 and was involved with the flow testing in 2005 and 2006. I am now on my fourth intake, stock, MOPAR, AirHammer and now LMI True CAI. I am also a serious bracket racer with over 5,000 runs on my car.

    Here goes. If you are not a serious racer, buy the intake you like for looks and sound. The differences in city driving and highway driving are moot. The actual advantages of any particular intake are not found until you are WOT. Normal driving does not get any way near WOT. You are using only about 20% or less of your available horsepower in those situations. The effect of any CAI is negligible.

    Now on the dragstrip, that is different. Both flow and IAT's are important. Above roughly 60* ambient, you want to minimize IAT's, below roughly 60*, flow becomes important as the IAT's are low enough to not affect timing.

    Therefore, one could postulate that the stock airboxes with a highflow filter would be decent at high ambient temps but restrictive in really cool weather. The GIFO/MOFO test showed that early aftermarket fender pull style intakes were restrictive due to the bends in the flow and the 3 1/2 inch tubing used. It thus follows logically that a fender pull style with a larger diameter tube could be the best all around choice, especially if it also looks and sound good. Does such an intake exist? Ask the serious racers that win what they run.

    I have tried more than one, the LMI Tru works the best.






    http://www.watsoncard.com/magnum
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  13. #58
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Lillington, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by done View Post
    Our engines do not use MAF.

    There are two factors in play that will affect performance as related to the air intake. Flow and Temperature.

    When the test team originally was testing CAI's back in 2005 and 2006, the focus was on flow as the stock intakes were perceived to be restrictive. In testing, they found that was the case and that some aftermarket intakes were indeed less restrictive than others, the best being the AirHammer and the AFE II. The tests did indeed show an increase in HP relative to stock. The tests were pretty well designed and the temperature factor was held constant.

    As time passed and everyone became more familiar with the LX's, it became more apparent that Intake Air Temperature was very critical to achieving maximum HP from the Hemi's. The early attempts at "true" CAI's that were tested proved to be restrictive in those early tests. As more experience has been gained and knowledge acquired, it has become clear that IAT's were more important than flow at higher ambient temps, roughly anything above 65*. The computer pulls timing as the IAT increases above 60* or so. Thus, running at 90* ambient causes a power loss and the short ram intakes don't help, typically causing a further 20* to 30* increase in IAT's. The increases are maximized in city traffic and reduced for highway driving, but you can't get IAT's below ambient.

    Now, my opinion on this situation and I think I have some reasonable credentials to express that opinion. I did the first testing of intake temperatures back in Dec 2004 and was involved with the flow testing in 2005 and 2006. I am now on my fourth intake, stock, MOPAR, AirHammer and now LMI True CAI. I am also a serious bracket racer with over 5,000 runs on my car.

    Here goes. If you are not a serious racer, buy the intake you like for looks and sound. The differences in city driving and highway driving are moot. The actual advantages of any particular intake are not found until you are WOT. Normal driving does not get any way near WOT. You are using only about 20% or less of your available horsepower in those situations. The effect of any CAI is negligible.

    Now on the dragstrip, that is different. Both flow and IAT's are important. Above roughly 60* ambient, you want to minimize IAT's, below roughly 60*, flow becomes important as the IAT's are low enough to not affect timing.

    Therefore, one could postulate that the stock airboxes with a highflow filter would be decent at high ambient temps but restrictive in really cool weather. The GIFO/MOFO test showed that early aftermarket fender pull style intakes were restrictive due to the bends in the flow and the 3 1/2 inch tubing used. It thus follows logically that a fender pull style with a larger diameter tube could be the best all around choice, especially if it also looks and sound good. Does such an intake exist? Ask the serious racers that win what they run.

    I have tried more than one, the LMI Tru works the best.





    Forgive me, as I was speaking in general and not specifically to our vehicles...trying to sum it all up as simple as possible.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Lillington, NC
    Posts
    210
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    Quote Originally Posted by done View Post
    Our engines do not use MAF.

    There are two factors in play that will affect performance as related to the air intake. Flow and Temperature.

    When the test team originally was testing CAI's back in 2005 and 2006, the focus was on flow as the stock intakes were perceived to be restrictive. In testing, they found that was the case and that some aftermarket intakes were indeed less restrictive than others, the best being the AirHammer and the AFE II. The tests did indeed show an increase in HP relative to stock. The tests were pretty well designed and the temperature factor was held constant.

    As time passed and everyone became more familiar with the LX's, it became more apparent that Intake Air Temperature was very critical to achieving maximum HP from the Hemi's. The early attempts at "true" CAI's that were tested proved to be restrictive in those early tests. As more experience has been gained and knowledge acquired, it has become clear that IAT's were more important than flow at higher ambient temps, roughly anything above 65*. The computer pulls timing as the IAT increases above 60* or so. Thus, running at 90* ambient causes a power loss and the short ram intakes don't help, typically causing a further 20* to 30* increase in IAT's. The increases are maximized in city traffic and reduced for highway driving, but you can't get IAT's below ambient.

    Now, my opinion on this situation and I think I have some reasonable credentials to express that opinion. I did the first testing of intake temperatures back in Dec 2004 and was involved with the flow testing in 2005 and 2006. I am now on my fourth intake, stock, MOPAR, AirHammer and now LMI True CAI. I am also a serious bracket racer with over 5,000 runs on my car.

    Here goes. If you are not a serious racer, buy the intake you like for looks and sound. The differences in city driving and highway driving are moot. The actual advantages of any particular intake are not found until you are WOT. Normal driving does not get any way near WOT. You are using only about 20% or less of your available horsepower in those situations. The effect of any CAI is negligible.

    Now on the dragstrip, that is different. Both flow and IAT's are important. Above roughly 60* ambient, you want to minimize IAT's, below roughly 60*, flow becomes important as the IAT's are low enough to not affect timing.

    Therefore, one could postulate that the stock airboxes with a highflow filter would be decent at high ambient temps but restrictive in really cool weather. The GIFO/MOFO test showed that early aftermarket fender pull style intakes were restrictive due to the bends in the flow and the 3 1/2 inch tubing used. It thus follows logically that a fender pull style with a larger diameter tube could be the best all around choice, especially if it also looks and sound good. Does such an intake exist? Ask the serious racers that win what they run.

    I have tried more than one, the LMI Tru works the best.





    Ok, I re-read your thread and while I can agree with your point...i would have to say that airflow becomes a lot more complicated than just IAT and potential flow of a vehicles induction system.

    Let's start at the breather...

    With the diameter of the intake tube and the diameter of the air box inlet the factory induction set up can flow between 7-800 CFM at WOT.

    The restriction in that angle is at the air filter, a point you made in your response in regards to placing a high flow filter; however, let's say that the filter provides no restriction...the next obstacle would be the throttle body and the intake, moving along with the runners and to the intake valves.

    Exactly how much CFM the engine can consume at WOT without restriction would be my starting point. Determining that flow rating and then designing a system to accompany that flow while keeping IATs down. If the 392 cant injest 800 CFM at WOT then what would be the point in trying to improve flow beyond the capability of the factory system?

    I know my numbers aren't specific and I'm sure someone can chime in but for arguments sake I provided a figure to illustrate a point lol


    Sent from my SM-G960U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

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