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  1. #1
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    Sep 2017
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    Bye Bye Junk Alpine Stereo

    Decided to replace the whole stereo system. Sounds SOO much better then the stock Alpine system. All the stock beeps, chimes, Bluetooth work perfect. Very happy how this turned out. I also mounted an 8" sub in the rear deck. The sub hits very hard and makes the deck rattle very badly so I may get a box for it. Dynamat isn't cutting it...

    Here's what was installed:


    Front Doors and Rear Deck: Infinity Kappa 93IX 3-way Speakers

    Dash: JBL GX302 3.5" 2-Way Speakers (May try to fit a 4" speaker soon)

    Rear Deck Sub: Infinity Kappa 800w (8" Sub 1600w Peak) Direct fit in the rear deck no modifications!

    Amp#1:
    Kenwood Excelon XR600-6DSP (1200w Peak, 600 RMS)

    Amp#2: Alpine Monoblock MRX-M110 (1100w RMS) with Remote Bass Knob (Had this amp laying around from my old 06 SRT8 Magnum)

    iDatalink Meastro AR Replacement Module

    iDatalink HRN-AR-CH2 Harness

    4 gauge positive and negative wires


    Metra #72-6514 Speaker Adapters (doors and rear deck)

    80 amp fuse for the Kenwood Amp and 100 amp fuse for the Alpine Amp

    Made a custom speaker wire extension for the Kenwood Amp (since the amp is mounted to the rear seats)


    If anyone wants to install this kit I would highly recommend it. It sounds great and super loud! Just need to fine tune the sound since to adjust the sound its done via Bluetooth with your phone.

    Few tips for install, YOU MUST use the 18 pin extension wiring harness the Kenwood amp comes with. I tried it with the iDatalink extension harness and it didn't work. Using the iDatalink extension harness the Bluetooth, in dash sound controls and other features don't work. Using the Kenwood extension harness makes every work fine. Also the iDatalink wiring diagram has incorrect colors and pins for connecting the "A" plug to the AR Module. Diagram shows connect the White wire from the "A" plug to the Blue wire (pin # 2) and connect the Black wire from the "A" plug to the Black wire (pin # 11) THIS IS INCORRECT! When you hook these wires up the blind spot indicators don't work, says service the system, the radio shuts off and the engine high speed fan turns on. The correct wiring is to connect the White wire from the "A" plug to the Yellow wire (pin # 15) and connect the Black wire from the "A" plug to the Light Pink wire (pin # 6). Do this and everything will work perfectly!

    Here's some pics from my install:

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    2018 Scat Pack Charger, Full Carbon Fiber Body Kit, Carbon Fiber Hellcat Hood, Carbon Fiber Wing, Mopar Window Deflectors, AFE Cold Air Intake & Throttle Body Spacer, UPR Oil Catch Can, Tazer, Hellcat 6 Piston Calipers & Rotors, SpeedLogix Front & Rear Strut Tower Braces, IRS Diff Brace, Spohn Performance Rear Control Arm Kit, Bwoody Front & Rear Sway Bar Links, Eibach Front & Rear Sway Bars, Race Bullets, Resonators Deleted, JBA 3" Mid pipes with Mini Cats, Exhaust Valve Simulators
    Likes Fotunt1, A.W., Infrasonic, bgipson21, ODB and 1 others liked this post



  2. #2
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    That is just awesome...great setup...and it's something I'm just starting to plan.

    So here is my question....we're did you tap into line level that you ran into the amp? Then did you run the cables back to the same location?

    2016 Dodge Charger Scat pack
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  3. #3
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    Sep 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by arod412 View Post
    That is just awesome...great setup...and it's something I'm just starting to plan.

    So here is my question....we're did you tap into line level that you ran into the amp? Then did you run the cables back to the same location?

    2016 Dodge Charger Scat pack
    Thanks man! Its really a nice setup. Your going to love it! To answer your question is I didn't have to tap into anything. I just used the idatalink harness. It just plugs in where the stock amp wires are under the dash on the left side where the e-brake is. Just pull the two plugs out of the stock amp and plug the new harness's in to them. Then run the wires from the dash to the trunk. Very simple. Here's what the harness looks like. You don't use the OBDII harness

    [IMG][/IMG]

  4. #4
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    Jan 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by 18-SCATPACK View Post
    Thanks man! Its really a nice setup. Your going to love it! To answer your question is I didn't have to tap into anything. I just used the idatalink harness. It just plugs in where the stock amp wires are under the dash on the left side where the e-brake is. Just pull the two plugs out of the stock amp and plug the new harness's in to them. Then run the wires from the dash to the trunk. Very simple. Here's what the harness looks like. You don't use the OBDII harness

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Nice....I'm gonna need to do some research on that idatalink harness. I like plug and play. What wires do you run back to the amp? I would think you would need to run something back to send that power back .

    2016 Dodge Charger Scat pack

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by arod412 View Post
    Nice....I'm gonna need to do some research on that idatalink harness. I like plug and play. What wires do you run back to the amp? I would think you would need to run something back to send that power back .

    2016 Dodge Charger Scat pack
    Your over thinking it lol Its a very easy install. Its mostly plug and play. You just plug both harness's in to the front where the stock amp is. Kenwood comes with two extension harness to relocated the amp and Meastro AR Module. You plug the one harness to the kenwood amp and the other to the AR module. The AR module comes with a Data cable as well. So you would plug the data cable to the kenwood amp and then plug the other end in the AR Module. Then splice the white and black wires that I mentioned above on my fist post. Then just supply power to the positive side and ground wire and that's it. Very simple install. The only thing you will have to make is a speaker wiring extension harness.

  6. #6
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    Mar 2007
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    Nice setup, I am looking at getting the same Kenwood unit later this year.

    I plan on replacing my speakers first along with sound deadening the doors and rear shelf as stage 1 with the addition of my JL 10w6 and Kenwood XR600-1
    2018 F8 Challenger M6

    IG f8dragon

  7. #7
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    Sep 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daytona1445 View Post
    Nice setup, I am looking at getting the same Kenwood unit later this year.

    I plan on replacing my speakers first along with sound deadening the doors and rear shelf as stage 1 with the addition of my JL 10w6 and Kenwood XR600-1

    Thanks! Your gonna like it! I did that first and it sounded good but wasn't loud enough for me. I also thought about sound deadening the doors but after removing the panel there wasn't much room to work with. Good luck! The deck should be easy to do. I should have installed my sound deadening first before installed the rear speakers. Got impatient waiting for it to come in lol So I put it on the bottom side of the deck. It helped some but not 100%. I put some on the trunk lid and also on the back of the trunk. There is still a bad rattle on the trunk lid. I found out its coming from the wing so not sure if I can get rid of that or not?

  8. #8
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    Jan 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daytona1445 View Post
    Nice setup, I am looking at getting the same Kenwood unit later this year.

    I plan on replacing my speakers first along with sound deadening the doors and rear shelf as stage 1 with the addition of my JL 10w6 and Kenwood XR600-1
    Yup....did that last year with infinity reference speakers all around...but power is lacking. It sounded low until at about power level 20.

    2016 Dodge Charger Scat pack

  9. #9
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    Jun 2016
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    Fayetteville NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by 18-SCATPACK View Post
    Decided to replace the whole stereo system. Sounds SOO much better then the stock Alpine system. All the stock beeps, chimes, Bluetooth work perfect. Very happy how this turned out. I also mounted an 8" sub in the rear deck. The sub hits very hard and makes the deck rattle very badly so I may get a box for it. Dynamat isn't cutting it...

    Here's what was installed:


    Front Doors and Rear Deck: Infinity Kappa 93IX 3-way Speakers

    Dash: JBL GX302 3.5" 2-Way Speakers (May try to fit a 4" speaker soon)

    Rear Deck Sub: Infinity Kappa 800w (8" Sub 1600w Peak) Direct fit in the rear deck no modifications!

    Amp#1:
    Kenwood Excelon XR600-6DSP (1200w Peak, 600 RMS)

    Amp#2: Alpine Monoblock MRX-M110 (1100w RMS) with Remote Bass Knob (Had this amp laying around from my old 06 SRT8 Magnum)

    iDatalink Meastro AR Replacement Module

    iDatalink HRN-AR-CH2 Harness

    4 gauge positive and negative wires


    Metra #72-6514 Speaker Adapters (doors and rear deck)

    80 amp fuse for the Kenwood Amp and 100 amp fuse for the Alpine Amp

    Made a custom speaker wire extension for the Kenwood Amp (since the amp is mounted to the rear seats)


    If anyone wants to install this kit I would highly recommend it. It sounds great and super loud! Just need to fine tune the sound since to adjust the sound its done via Bluetooth with your phone.

    Few tips for install, YOU MUST use the 18 pin extension wiring harness the Kenwood amp comes with. I tried it with the iDatalink extension harness and it didn't work. Using the iDatalink extension harness the Bluetooth, in dash sound controls and other features don't work. Using the Kenwood extension harness makes every work fine. Also the iDatalink wiring diagram has incorrect colors and pins for connecting the "A" plug to the AR Module. Diagram shows connect the White wire from the "A" plug to the Blue wire (pin # 2) and connect the Black wire from the "A" plug to the Black wire (pin # 11) THIS IS INCORRECT! When you hook these wires up the blind spot indicators don't work, says service the system, the radio shuts off and the engine high speed fan turns on. The correct wiring is to connect the White wire from the "A" plug to the Yellow wire (pin # 15) and connect the Black wire from the "A" plug to the Light Pink wire (pin # 6). Do this and everything will work perfectly!

    Here's some pics from my install:

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]
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    Nice work, dude......very impressed. Are those 2 ohm compatible? And how was the install? (door panel and pillar speakers).... are far as labor goes? I tend to have caveman hands and get impatient and rough when i get pissed.
    Last edited by ODB; 02-21-2018 at 09:05 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    18-SCATPACK,

    I also have an 18 scat and am compiling my system as we speak. I’m going to run two JL HD Amps and use a Rockford DSR1. My question is, Does the i datalink interface process 4 separate channels for dash, front door, rear deck, and sub, or does it process the standard 3 channels for front, rear, and sub? I’m trying to determine if I can run two separate channels for the front dash and door, or if I should do a component setup and just process one signal for both.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    Sep 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by ODB View Post
    Nice work, dude......very impressed. Are those 2 ohm compatible? And how was the install? (door panel and pillar speakers).... are far as labor goes? I tend to have caveman hands and get impatient and rough when i get pissed.
    Thanks man! Yes all the speakers are 2.3 ohms. The sub has a switch on it to choose from 2 or 4 ohms. Im the same way when I get pissed lol The install was pretty simple, took a weekend to install and figure everything out. The rear deck and dash speakers were the easiest to install. The doors were a pain. Rear deck just remove the cushions where the seat belts lay on, on both sides (there is a clip on top and a lower bolt holding them in) Then remove the two push clips holding the rear deck cover on. Then just slid it out towards the front of the car and lay it outside of the passenger door. You can't remove it due to the seat belt in the way.
    The dash you just remove the door weather stripping on both sides. Then pull really hard on the top of A pillar covers this will release most of the clips. Then remove the A pillar lanyard and then just lift and pull out. Then remove the dash cover by lifting one corner and pulling up until you go to the other corner. Once all the clips are released you then pull the cover towards the back of the car and that releases the rear clips and just remove it from the car.
    For the doors you need to remove the screw behind the door handle, remove the screw under the arm rest and the screw for the rubber stopper on the side. Remove the push clip on the other side. Remove the switch panel and unplug it. Then pull out on the lower panel to release the lower clips and then pull on the sides to release the side clips. Then lift the panel off of the door frame and unplug the rest of the connectors. I didn't unhook the door pull cable. You just lay the door panel on the door while your working on it, it gives you enough room to change the speaker. Hope this helps!

  12. #12
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    Sep 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by gfertig View Post
    18-SCATPACK,

    I also have an 18 scat and am compiling my system as we speak. I’m going to run two JL HD Amps and use a Rockford DSR1. My question is, Does the i datalink interface process 4 separate channels for dash, front door, rear deck, and sub, or does it process the standard 3 channels for front, rear, and sub? I’m trying to determine if I can run two separate channels for the front dash and door, or if I should do a component setup and just process one signal for both.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Nice man! The Rockford DSR1 might be a little harder to install on our cars. The factory radio doesn't use RCA inputs on the stock amp. The iDatalink interface T harness doesn't have any RCA inputs either. The T harness actually has 12 separate channels. But 6 of them are only used for our cars. Dash left, Dash right, Front Door left, Front Door right, Rear Deck Left, Rear Deck Right. Its not group channels. Here is a wiring diagram from the T harness for you to look at. I know its says for kenwood amp (You'll be using the JL Amp) but you will be using the same T harness. Im assuming your going to wire the speakers to your JL Amp and run the RCA Cables from the JL Amp to the DSR and run RCA cables from that amp to the other JL Amp to power the sub(s)? Is the JL Amp 4 channel or 6 channel?

    [IMG][/IMG]

  13. #13
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    Question.....I really like the fact that you didn't add any subwoofer boxes, and you just added an 8 inch sub in the rear deck. Any issues with the mounting depth? It was just drop and plug in?

    I actually might do this process and save some space instead of adding a subbox.

    2016 Dodge Charger Scat pack

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by arod412 View Post
    Question.....I really like the fact that you didn't add any subwoofer boxes, and you just added an 8 inch sub in the rear deck. Any issues with the mounting depth? It was just drop and plug in?

    I actually might do this process and save some space instead of adding a subbox.

    2016 Dodge Charger Scat pack

    That's the reason why I did it in the rear deck. Didn't want to take up any trunk space. Yes this sub is a drop and plug in. The sub fits perfect in the hole and it doesn't hang too low in the trunk. The fabric cover under the rear deck has a spot / indent so you can fit it with out any issues. I have a Speedlogix arched rear strut tower brace and it just clears it by a hair. The sub depth is 5 3/4". For the bolt size its the same bolt thread as the rear deck speakers.

  15. #15
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    Nice set up man I just literally did mine this weekend changed all the interiors but I already had the subs put in the alpine was kinda crap also added a dash and rear cam video

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    Last edited by An1mal; 02-22-2018 at 08:48 PM.
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