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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by robstorredr/t View Post
    I got a guy works at dealership and quoted me 28 or $2900. Can’t remember now. Seems pricey but I really would like to do something like this if there’s good feedback about doing this.


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    Major cost difference between the two; the 3.92 being significantly less money. Someone on here a while back bought a pallet full of 226mm's from a dealership closure.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Major cost difference between the two; the 3.92 being significantly less money. Someone on here a while back bought a pallet full of 226mm's from a dealership closure.
    That is probably the member MT 426 300. I think he has one left. I bought mine from him and it is arriving tomorrow.

    I am going from a 3.55 to the 3.92 to get some more torque to the ground without touching the engine. Remember your torque that actually hits the pavement is the engine output x transmission gear x read end ratio. The higher the ratio, the more torque in every gear. As long as you can put down the power, more is better for a fun daily driver.

    With improved technology, manufacturers have gone crazy with this concept. Engines have gotten smaller but awd and transmission tech has gotten better. Some of these newer sport SUVs have 1st gear ratios in the 5's and rear end ratios in the 3-3.5 range. When you have 8-10 gears that shift quickly, you can easily have super low gears for awesome acceleration but a very low overdrive gear for comfortable and efficient cruising.

    We are not so lucky with only 5 speeds in the nag1. A lower rear end ratio puts out more power but with less transmission gears to choose from, that comes at the cost of a lower top speed for each gear and different transmission kick down points. I notice that the Nag1 does not downshift if the destination gear will result in an rpm of 5000 or higher. If you are used to kicking down into 2nd at 65 mph with the 3.06, the 3.55 or higher will only go into 3rd. 3rd will have more pull due to the higher ratio but in some setups, depending on engine output and cam profile, there could be a dead spot at a speed which otherwise was fine with a different ratio. If you have a 440 like Hemissary, there would be no dead spots.

    I can send anyone an excel sheet that will compare two ratios and show you exactly what mph and rpm you be in to simulate a new gear before you make a decision. Just PM me if interested.

    If you are running a 1/4 mile race, there are other considerations but for a daily driver that doesn't hit the highway too much, I don't see any downsides.

    After I went with the 3.55, I was having traction issues until I widened my wheels and used only very good tires. I also switched to a cam that provided some more top end at the expense of a bit of low end. That turned out to be a good combo with a steeper gear by balancing out low end power to actually gain traction and use the gearing on the bottom end to do the work, then once the cam's optimal rpm was reached, the top end pull continues. Unlike an engine mod that has a certain peak power increase, the torque benefit from gearing is felt at every rpm.
    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by BM_SRT; 01-11-2019 at 06:34 AM.
    2006 300c SRT8
    PWR Ported Heads | HHP Stage 2R Cam | 3.91 Getrag | GTP Ported Intake Manifold | Kooks Longtubes | Corsa Sport / SRT Resonators | AMG 8 Piston Brake Calipers | Hemituner 6,800 TCM | BT Catch Can | LMI True CAI V2 | Tranzformer | MM 87mm TB | Johan Tuned | REM Adjustable Endlinks & Front/Rear Shock Braces | 33/22mm Front/Rear Sway Bars | Michelin Pilot Sport 4 315/35/20 & 275/40/20 | 10" Widened Oem Wheels | LC-2 Wideband Analog Output to Trinity | Mishimoto Full Aluminum Radiator

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  3. #18
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    Your first gear will be fine with shorter gears (numerically higher). There are cars with way more torque than ours running old ass torqflites and 727s with 4.10s or more and they hook up.

    The people who say "first gear will be useless" are full of it. They can't drive. Don't listen to those grannies.

    The 15+ 6.4s have both more torque AND more first gear than your car, and they hook up. Traction is a function of driver mod first, and tires second. I can hook up first gear in my 70 Charger with a 580" big block, a hemi four speed, and 4.10s out back (that's 11.5x gear multiplication being turned by 700ft/lbs of torque).

    I just put 3.91s in my heads/cam RT, and the only thing I wish I had now is MORE TORQUE! Don't fear the gear.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    2006 Dodge Charger Daytona TorRed #1354, SRT Heads/Intake - ARH Long Tubes - Spartan Plus Cam - Magnaflow - 3.91s - 411rwhp/410rwtq
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beach Goat View Post
    Your first gear will be fine with shorter gears (numerically higher). There are cars with way more torque than ours running old ass torqflites and 727s with 4.10s or more and they hook up.

    The people who say "first gear will be useless" are full of it. They can't drive. Don't listen to those grannies.

    The 15+ 6.4s have both more torque AND more first gear than your car, and they hook up. Traction is a function of driver mod first, and tires second. I can hook up first gear in my 70 Charger with a 580" big block, a hemi four speed, and 4.10s out back (that's 11.5x gear multiplication being turned by 700ft/lbs of torque).

    I just put 3.91s in my heads/cam RT, and the only thing I wish I had now is MORE TORQUE! Don't fear the gear.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    Two things that helped drastically with 1st gear, other than better tires:

    1. If you have throttle boost enabled on your tuner, turn it back to zero. That will give your more "resolution" to be able to modulate the throttle better, versus having the booster setting multiply your input.

    2. Hit the traction control button to turn it off. Maybe its just my vehicle but the traction control initiates an artificial loss off traction when I get into the throttle a bit in 1st. It felt like I hit some ice but its the middle of summer in Florida. Turning it off by just hitting the button once helped a lot. The rear end still gets a bit loose but at least it stays straight and power is delivered properly.
    Last edited by BM_SRT; 01-11-2019 at 09:49 AM.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BM_SRT View Post
    Two things that helped drastically with 1st gear, other than better tires:

    1. If you have throttle boost enabled on your tuner, turn it back to zero. That will give your more "resolution" to be able to modulate the throttle better, versus having the booster setting multiply your input.

    2. Hit the traction control button to turn it off. Maybe its just my vehicle but the traction control initiates an artificial loss off traction when I get into the throttle a bit in 1st. It felt like I hit some ice but its the middle of summer in Florida. Turning it off by just hitting the button once helped a lot. The rear end still gets a bit loose but at least it stays straight and power is delivered properly.
    Very good points! I forgot about that, I have the throttle boost actually set to negative half a percent after the heads/cam and 3.91s. It gives me much more throttle control. Anither positive byproduct is the engine actually feels more responsive, and like it always has more power to give.

    It's kind of hard to explain....but I'll try.

    With the throttle boost way up, it felt like I would reach WOT, and therfore maximum acceleration, at like half throttle. Then even if I pushed the pedal more, I didn't get more power. Now, every single little movement of the pedal equates to more and more power, all the way up to 100% WOT.

    And I've also noticed that the ESP is a little out of its league with all the torque hitting the tires now. It'll pull back power to regain traction, but then it'll throw it all back in making the tires spin again. I prefer turning it off now and sorting the traction out myself.

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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BM_SRT View Post
    That is probably the member MT 426 300. I think he has one left. I bought mine from him and it is arriving tomorrow.

    I am going from a 3.55 to the 3.92 to get some more torque to the ground without touching the engine. Remember your torque that actually hits the pavement is the engine output x transmission gear x read end ratio. The higher the ratio, the more torque in every gear. As long as you can put down the power, more is better for a fun daily driver.

    With improved technology, manufacturers have gone crazy with this concept. Engines have gotten smaller but awd and transmission tech has gotten better. Some of these newer sport SUVs have 1st gear ratios in the 5's and rear end ratios in the 3-3.5 range. When you have 8-10 gears that shift quickly, you can easily have super low gears for awesome acceleration but a very low overdrive gear for comfortable and efficient cruising.

    We are not so lucky with only 5 speeds in the nag1. A lower rear end ratio puts out more power but with less transmission gears to choose from, that comes at the cost of a lower top speed for each gear and different transmission kick down points. I notice that the Nag1 does not downshift if the destination gear will result in an rpm of 5000 or higher. If you are used to kicking down into 2nd at 65 mph with the 3.06, the 3.55 or higher will only go into 3rd. 3rd will have more pull due to the higher ratio but in some setups, depending on engine output and cam profile, there could be a dead spot at a speed which otherwise was fine with a different ratio. If you have a 440 like Hemissary, there would be no dead spots.

    I can send anyone an excel sheet that will compare two ratios and show you exactly what mph and rpm you be in to simulate a new gear before you make a decision. Just PM me if interested.

    If you are running a 1/4 mile race, there are other considerations but for a daily driver that doesn't hit the highway too much, I don't see any downsides.

    After I went with the 3.55, I was having traction issues until I widened my wheels and used only very good tires. I also switched to a cam that provided some more top end at the expense of a bit of low end. That turned out to be a good combo with a steeper gear by balancing out low end power to actually gain traction and use the gearing on the bottom end to do the work, then once the cam's optimal rpm was reached, the top end pull continues. Unlike an engine mod that has a certain peak power increase, the torque benefit from gearing is felt at every rpm.
    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    I’d like that excel sheet
    Rob


    Current Ride - 2012 Dodge Charger 392 SuperBee - Yellow
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by robstorredr/t View Post
    I’d like that excel sheet
    Ok PM me you email, thanks.

  8. #23
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    Given different rear gear ratios available, max rpm and applied tire diameter (need to enter your specifics), here's a Gear Ratio Calculator.

    NAG1 transmission ratios to enter:
    1st: 3.59
    2nd: 2.19
    3rd: 1.41
    4th: 1.00
    5th: 0.83

  9. #24
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    Yes. my Challenger had the 3.06. Big difference coming from the 3.06 to the 3.73.






  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by BM_SRT View Post
    Ok PM me you email, thanks.
    I’d love to see it too. Can you load as a snapshot on this post?
    SCOTT57RT
    2007 RT Charger 5.7L - Black Crystal Pearl
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Who are "they"?

    "They" are the same worry-warts I was referring to above...emotionally driven that the engine is somehow being "over-revved" :^)
    Just people on forums and such.....


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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCOTT57RT View Post
    I’d love to see it too. Can you load as a snapshot on this post?
    Sure, what two gears do you want to see compared?

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  13. #28
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    Here are a few comparisons:












  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by BM_SRT View Post
    That is probably the member MT 426 300. I think he has one left. I bought mine from him and it is arriving tomorrow.

    I am going from a 3.55 to the 3.92 to get some more torque to the ground without touching the engine. Remember your torque that actually hits the pavement is the engine output x transmission gear x read end ratio. The higher the ratio, the more torque in every gear. As long as you can put down the power, more is better for a fun daily driver.

    With improved technology, manufacturers have gone crazy with this concept. Engines have gotten smaller but awd and transmission tech has gotten better. Some of these newer sport SUVs have 1st gear ratios in the 5's and rear end ratios in the 3-3.5 range. When you have 8-10 gears that shift quickly, you can easily have super low gears for awesome acceleration but a very low overdrive gear for comfortable and efficient cruising.

    We are not so lucky with only 5 speeds in the nag1. A lower rear end ratio puts out more power but with less transmission gears to choose from, that comes at the cost of a lower top speed for each gear and different transmission kick down points. I notice that the Nag1 does not downshift if the destination gear will result in an rpm of 5000 or higher. If you are used to kicking down into 2nd at 65 mph with the 3.06, the 3.55 or higher will only go into 3rd. 3rd will have more pull due to the higher ratio but in some setups, depending on engine output and cam profile, there could be a dead spot at a speed which otherwise was fine with a different ratio. If you have a 440 like Hemissary, there would be no dead spots.

    I can send anyone an excel sheet that will compare two ratios and show you exactly what mph and rpm you be in to simulate a new gear before you make a decision. Just PM me if interested.

    If you are running a 1/4 mile race, there are other considerations but for a daily driver that doesn't hit the highway too much, I don't see any downsides.

    After I went with the 3.55, I was having traction issues until I widened my wheels and used only very good tires. I also switched to a cam that provided some more top end at the expense of a bit of low end. That turned out to be a good combo with a steeper gear by balancing out low end power to actually gain traction and use the gearing on the bottom end to do the work, then once the cam's optimal rpm was reached, the top end pull continues. Unlike an engine mod that has a certain peak power increase, the torque benefit from gearing is felt at every rpm.
    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Since my dreams of a ZF8 swap are completely unrealistic the 3.55 is exactly where I want to be. I can't imagine running a 3.92 even around town...

    Galactus hungers...
    Current
    His: 2006 MSRT8, K&N CAI, built and tuned by MPR Motorsports (WhiteHemi), forged pistons and a HHP Stg 2r cam, HHP HEMITUNER TCM, Paramount Stg 2 valve body, Mopar Performance high stall converter, Flowmaster Super 10s, 180° t-stat, Tranzformer, Street Edge coilovers, 275/35/20 Continental ExtremeContact DW (square), otherwise bone stock.
    397rwhp/399rwtq
    Personal best 8.473 in the 1/8 and spinning like a fool, on old Toyos, pre Tranzformer, old suspension, and old stock engine, new times to come.

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    MOPAR360

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tikibeast View Post
    Since my dreams of a ZF8 swap are completely unrealistic the 3.55 is exactly where I want to be. I can't imagine running a 3.92 even around town...

    Galactus hungers...
    It's badass. I love hearing the Hemi scream up the tach with purpose, instead of lazily climbing up. With 3.91s it revs like a small block should.

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