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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    Alternator shorted out

    I was driving my 2007 Charger R/T when we heard a pop then the battery light came on and the gauges started messing up we barely made home and the car died in the driveway we pushed it in the gate, when I was able to check it turns out the alternator shorted out! I replaced it & the battery will only charge to 10.5 volts the car will start and idle great but once I get it up on the road and accelerate the car stumbles and has no power if I ease into the gas I can get it to accelerate some it will idle great but not accelerate I don’t know if it’s because of the battery or the fuel pump got damaged when the alternator shorted out? Any ideas would be appreciated before I spend $150 on a new fuel pump and $150 on a new battery! The car does have 130,000 miles on it

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    If the battery is disconnected from the car and it will only charge to 10.5 volts, it's definitely defective.

    Is the voltage regulator built into the computer or is it old style and in the alternator?

    Update: I looked in the manual and it's in the computer it appears
    Last edited by 2005rtmag; 09-10-2019 at 12:36 AM.

  3. #3
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    With the battery disconnected it will only charge to 10.5 volts so I have a dead or shorted cell, I know I have to buy a new battery but I’m wondering about the possibility the fuel pump got damaged when the alternator shorted out?

  4. #4
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    It's more likely the PCM took the hit from the short, not the fuel pump.

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
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  5. #5
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    Jan 2011
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    there was a recall for alternators on the 2012 chargers, wife's car did the same thing that your car did. battery and some wires had to be replaced with the alternator.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    Does the car have the thermo fuse on battery POS lead?
    2013 Chrysler 300S, 6.4 BGE with 6.4 SRT cam, AIT 18% OD pulley, E-force with 2.75 pulley(11.4 lbs boost), fastman 84+4 mm throttle body, 1 7/8 kooks long tubes w/hi-flow cats, Magnaflow Cat-back, FTI 2800 stall, Trans built by Hellraiser, Dings Racing valve body and tune, Getrag 3.73, Walbro 400LPH, DW 65# inj. LG aluminum rad. Dual SRT fans. Complete 4 piston Brembo upgrade. Stage one MOPAR springs, XIX X39 22x9 +15 - 22x10.5 +22 with NITTO 420 265/35R22 - 295/30R22

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    I would think the voltage regulator was working properly, when I hook my scan tool to the car it show 10.5 volts before starting and 14.2 after starting & I have also verified this at the battery with a multi meter & battery tester

  8. #8
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    Apr 2015
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    I put in a new battery and that fixed everything! The 10.5 volts wasn’t enough to make everything work properly even though the alternator was charging at 14.2 volts! I’m not use to these newer cars & how everything works thru the computer I’m more use to my 70 Charger! Even if the battery was bad as long as you could get it started it would run off the alternator!
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  9. #9
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    Mar 2017
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    New cars are a delicate balancing act between Alt and Battery. It's crazy

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Houston TX
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    How old is the battery? Did you try charging it outside the car with a battery charger?

    Richard
    06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8



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