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392 stroker kit for 5.7

6K views 30 replies 5 participants last post by  DBL.DWN 
#1 ·
Anyone bought one of these kits if so
Can i get some feedback? Also all these kits i keep seeing say come with dish pistons. I would definitely won't to use flat pistons.
I don't really won't to buy the kit would rather buy a piece at a time. one week buy a crank, later pick up a set of pistons etc. If anyone has any suggestions on how i would go about doing that.
I'm having a hard time finding it a part at a time. Thanks

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#2 ·
Why not just wait and get a whole kit that’s all perfectly match together? My Manley kit was about $2800, bearings included. That way you have the compression ratio, rod length, all that exact instead of mixed and matched parts. But Manley, K1, Molner, Eagle, they all have stroker cranks. Dished or flat top pistons depend on the final compression ratio, which also depends on what heads are being used. What year is the engine? 03-08 or 09+?
 
#4 ·
Why not just wait and get a whole kit that's all perfectly match together? My Manley kit was about $2800, bearings included. That way you have the compression ratio, rod length, all that exact instead of mixed and matched parts. But Manley, K1, Molner, Eagle, they all have stroker cranks. Dished or flat top pistons depend on the final compression ratio, which also depends on what heads are being used. What year is the engine? 03-08 or 09+?
Ya, definitely was going to use all matched parts.
Only resin would like to get the parts one at a time, cause it's going to be very hard for me to save up $$3000
I have 5 children and im a mechanic
I don't make a lot of money.
My car is 2006 charger.
I'm thanking about using set of
2010 5.7 head's and 6.4 intake that
i all ready have. Would like to use a set of 6.4 heads. But don't thank that they will work?

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#3 ·
Want or won’t?

Building a rotating assembly is fairly easy. Takes some math and decisions.
You need to figure out your main goal, and heads you plan to use. Then start putting it together.
I did the same as you, bought piece by piece. Cause I didn’t like the shelf kits. I will tell you it will be easier and cheaper to pick up a kit.


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#6 ·
If you want to build it right, you gotta expect the final cost of the engine alone to be around 5 grand. That's getting block machine work done, new replacement parts, cam, tuning, heads are pretty expensive. Trust me, it's not cheap
Yes I agree it's not cheap for sure.
I've rebuilt Chevy small blocks before. when I started looking up mopar parts I was kind of surprised started to thank must be looking at the wrong places. The last SBC I had 1800 in the lower end.
All the machine work and parts we're talking, 30 over hyper tech pistons, crank balanced, line board10/10, Cam bearings, all new ARP bolts kit just every thing besides the heads. With that being said I thank the extra money is going to be worth it.
My charger just won't keep up with the Camaros or mustangs even the BMW's in the quarter.
Hell a friend of mine has a 2010 Challenger
R/T and it screams. but a little V6 Camaro smoke's him every time. The sad part is the Challenger smoke's me every time.
I guess it's cause these cars are to heavy maybe I don't really no?
I'm thanking this (stroker kit) is going to be the best option.
Besides making payment's on a scat pack what's the fun in that? I thought about that (Torque Storm) procharger. it's like 3000 for almost every thing I
would need.
Can't do that for the same reason NOS is out of the question. Stock crank and pistons. I even consider just going 30 over, fourged pistons, steel crank, and then just NOS or procharger.
The only other thing I can do to my car now would be a Cam and maybe some gears as far as bolt on mods. Thanks for the reply

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#7 ·
There is a forum member selling forged short block with one damaged journal. My 2006 R/T had Eagle heads- medium cam -6.4 intake- could have run high 12s. No traction though. 6.4 heads wont work because of smaller bore. Eagle heads even stock are good. Cam selection seems to be key.
 
#9 ·
ha yeah mopar has always been cursed with high pricing. Supply and demand. Just dont have it like SBC.

You can find deals out there. If your not in a rush then piece a assembly together. You can find good deals on individual components.You will just have to remember that you will need to balance(and maybe machine the crank) the assembly when complete.

Check out user, Snowman7, on here. He normally has some 5.7 stuff for sale.
 
#12 · (Edited)
With a much longer stroke, the pistons have to be dished to keep the compression ratio from being too high. The only other choice is to somehow increase the combustion chamber size in the heads to make up for it.

Also, it seems to me that it would be a good idea to buy the assembly together and get the entire assembly balanced.

Story from long ago. Neighbor had a 57 chevy with the 283. He increased the bore size to 4" which increased the displacement to 302 cu in. Instead of buying the special aftermarket pistons with the height needed for the stroke length of the 283, 3", he thought he would save some money by buying 4" diameter 327 pistons. but the 327 has a longer stroke, 3 1/4", and the pistons were 1/8" shorter so his new pistons lacked 1/8" from coming to the top of the cylinder. And this guy was a mechanic at the chevy dealer.
 
#13 ·
With a much longer stroke, the pistons have to be dished to keep the compression ratio from being too high. The only other choice is to somehow increase the combustion chamber size in the heads to make up for it.

Also, it seems to me that it would be a good idea to buy the assembly together and get the entire assembly balanced.

Story from long ago. Neighbor had a 57 chevy with the 283. He increased the bore size to 4" which increased the displacement to 302 cu in. Instead of buying the special aftermarket pistons with the height needed for the stroke length of the 283, 3", he thought he would save some money by buying 4" diameter 327 pistons. but the 327 has a longer stroke, 3 1/4", and the pistons were 1/8" shorter so his new pistons lacked 1/8" from coming to the top of the cylinder. And this guy was a mechanic at the chevy dealer.
Some corrections here. With strokers (or any rotating combination really) and combo needs to be well thought out. Longer stroke leaves less room for the pistons and rod combo. You can keep the same pistons height but the rod will need to but a lot shorter, or you can keep the same rod length but you will need a lot shorter piston. Obviously this is a blanket statement to get my point across cause you there's more you have to worry about with piston and rod heights. This is where you need the big picture. What are your goals of the build. How much piston is needed to to hold the power I want. What will be the critical piston speed for the rpm i plan to turn. Is the piston going to rock too much being so short.
Dished pistons do not shorten the piston. They simply add volume to the combustion area. Height is based off pin distance to deck.
 
#15 ·
I see what your saying, I'm going to have to do some research. Cause I'm going to use a 6.4 intake for sure and I'm going to use flat top pistons.
So I will need a set of heads that will flow good with 6.4 intake. I would like to have compression ratio 10.1.
so the heads will also have to be open chambers,. I thank that means eagle heads wouldn't work right?
Well they would if I used dished pistons.
I see the logic behind the dish pistons.
just on all the Chevy motor I built that was the first they to go in the trash.
All the trouble it went throw to pull them out and I'm actually considering using them on my must expensive build.
I hope there is going to be some way around using those pistons.
I thank that 10.1 compression would be good for street use and strip?
If I'm not mistaking I thank could even run a small amount of boost?
I would like to still be able to drive this car every day.
At least back and forth to work witch is about 20 min's away. So if this set up is to radical for every day use, I'm going to have do something else.
Thank for all the advice.

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#16 ·
03-08 pre-eagle 5.7 heads have an 85cc chamber

05+ 6.1 heads have something like 74cc chamber

09+ 5.7 eagle heads have a 66cc chamber

On my 392 stroker I’m running flat top Manley pistons with pre-eagle heads. My compression ratio with a stock .027 gasket is approximately 9.6:1.

I’m currently getting a set of eagle heads ready for install. I’m planning on using a .075 thick cometic gasket and that puts me around 11:1. As far as I’ve been told that is still ok with pump 93 gas. If you know what heads you are using now, you can get lower compression pistons, I plan on changing pistons if I eventually boost it. I belive Manley has 3 different pistons available with their stroker kit. Inertia Motorsports offers a machining to open up the eagle combustion chamber some, I don’t know to what spec but I think it’s around $250 + shipping to and from. I think it might open them to around 75cc but don’t quote me.
 
#17 ·
From my research I’ve heard that the aluminum heads help you run alittle more boost on high compression then the old school thinking with cast heads. Something about the aluminum helping bleed off heat better. Please correct that if I’m wrong because I’m still trying to find solid answers. I know stock eagle motors run about 10.6 compression and they normally run upwards on 8-10 lbs of boost on stock motors.
 
#24 ·
That tool neglects the size of the combustion chamber. It divides the volume of the cylinder by the volume of the combustion chamber. I always thought you had to add the volume of the combustion chamber to the volume of the cylinder and then divide the total volume by by the volume of the combustion chamber to get the compression ratio.
 
#30 ·
Almost all stroker kits compression ratios are based on what head you are going to use. I ran stock Eagles on my 2006 R/T with forged replacement pistons. With .070 Cometics headgasket- compression was approx 11.0 to1. When I Procharged- Stu at Inertia opened up the closed chambers to 72cc- to bring down to 10.00 to 1. Many options.
 
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