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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    Door lock woes 2008 Charger R/T

    Door locks stopped working.

    You can unlock the drivers door with the key fob. No other door unlocks with key fob or door switches.

    You cant lock anydoor with key fob or switch.

    Seems totally broken except drivers door unlocks, this is the only part that functions.

    Dealer looked at it for about 20min and said they would have to bill me to keep going but they suspect it's a bad BCM.

    Any suggestions?



  2. #2
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    Oct 2016
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    If you haven't already done so, check the fuses and relays.

  3. #3
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    Mar 2010
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    Also check the wires between the Driver's door and the body.

  4. #4
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    Oct 2015
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    I replaced the relay I could find related to the door locks and I replaced 2 fuses.

    I don't see any broken wires in the door looms.

    This is a great car other than the door lock issues, driving me nuts. Now we have a kid so having to manually unlock the doors is a hassle, first world problems.

    Part of my issue is I can't really get a clear idea of all the parts involved. I know there is a BCM, where is this? I know there is at least 2 fuses and 1 relay in the trunk fuse box, I replaced those.

    Any help is appreciated.

  5. #5
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    Oct 2015
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    I've just been dealing with having no power door locks but its getting tiresome.

    New research says there is a Drive Door Control Module in the door and a Passenger one in the other door.

    I can't find any readings I can use to test with. Like Resistance readings or anything. The modules are ~$120 each so would love to test before I throw parts at this.

    Thanks.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Sedalia, Missouri
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    As I said before - check the wires between the driver's door and the body.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
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    Given there is zero chance all electrical leads going to the doors will have failed, it points to the BCM.

    YOu won't get anywhere without first reading the Factory Service Manuals we all have the luxury of downloading here at LX.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    I actually double checked the wires again last weekend. This time instead of pulling the rubber boot out of the car side I just cut it open. All the wires were clean, no chaffing, no splits and for sure all connected. I taped the boot up with electrical tape as I had cut the boot open.


    I can't get any links to the Service Manuals to work, I couldn't a year ago either, bummer.

    My car just goes everywhere unlocked at this point. Nothing of value in it. If its gets stolen, Ill cross that bridge then.

  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Oct 2015
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    Thank you for the link. I'll start looking at it this weekend.

    I have a generic bluetooth scanner to see trouble codes trough the ODB2 port.

    Which do I need to see the communication between the body modules or lack thereof?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by kott0n View Post
    Thank you for the link. I'll start looking at it this weekend.

    I have a generic bluetooth scanner to see trouble codes trough the ODB2 port.

    Which do I need to see the communication between the body modules or lack thereof?
    Spend some time familiarizing yourself with how the Service Manual is laid out. Then go the Trouble Shooting section for door locks. From there, it will guide you through typical Boolean logic diagnostic paths to determine root cause(s).


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Wires can be broken, inside the vinyl insulation.

    You need to ohm out the relevant wires, through the pillar (the boot you cut open).

    On my 06 Charger, in my trunk harness, I found 4 wires broken, internally. The inside trunk light failed and the 3rd brake light crapped out. When I ohmed between the light and brake light and the car side harness, I found the problem.

    You need to ohm out the wires, for continuity.

    Go between the module in the door and the inside quarter panel. No need to slice open the boot, again.

    Another member had an issue, recently, where his passenger side mirror stopped responding. IIRC, he found bad wires, in the drivers side pillar boot.

    Worth a shot...

    Hope this helps.




    Bob
    LuX Technologies - Custom Interior Light Mods for Chrysler / Dodge / Jeep Platforms [LX/LC/WK]
    I spend my time modding your lights and developing new products, not being your FaceBook friend.

    http://www.luxte.ch
    Lux Technologies

    Likes Hemissary liked this post

  13. #13
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    Sep 2006
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    Diboblo will agree, if you do find broken leads, how you elect to repair them will be just as important as finding them.

    The reason they failed, more often than not is cold climates where the insulating jacket has been work-hardened to the point it fractures. The inner stranded lead is still fine at this point. But the point of insulation fracture now(!) focuses the lead to bend only at that point, as opposed to flexing along its entire length.

    Soon, the strands themselves begin to fail one-by-one until it becomes an open circuit. While repairing broken leads, look at the rest of the bundle and you're likely to find more with cracked insulation - but a still intact lead.

    The problem is, any of the typical repairs such as soldering, quik-connects simply refocuses the points of failure to (now) either side of the stiff solder joint or the quik-connector. With the quik-connectors, you've simply created two points of failure.

    Without replacing the harness (note they are designed for this as a service item), the trick is to shoot for the smallest solder joint as possible. Unless you know how to properly solder, its very likely you'll apply too much heat and worse - too much solder. If you keep feeding solder into the work...it'll keep right on absorbing it and moving quickly(!) down the inside of the insulation jacket turning what was(!) a stranded (many individual small gauge copper wires bundled together) lead into the worst scenario...a solid lead. The result is that lead will again - simply break either side of the solder.

    Get someone who knows what they are doing to do the soldering. Unfortunately, once leads begin to fail at a flexible interface...expect more and more to follow suit.

    If you've got a hobby shop nearby, go buy some ultra-flexible / very high strand count / silicone-jacketed lead. We use it for very high current electrical power (flight systems for example) applications. Removed ~2" of the broken lead. Again make extremely small (1/8" stripped jacket - definitely no more) solder joints using a 2-3" section of the new flexible lead. The repair, when performed correctly, will outlast the rest of the vehicle...

    Pet peeve: a wire is a single strand of copper; a lead is multiple strands of copper twisted together and jacketed; a cable is two or more leads bundled and usually twisted together (to reduce voltage differences from one lead to another due to EMI / RFI).
    Last edited by Hemissary; 03-14-2019 at 09:50 PM.

  14. #14
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    Mar 2017
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    If these work as well as advertised, they'd be the best thing since sliced bread!!

    https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Wa...a-625119906911

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Likes Pandora, Hemissary liked this post

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by punisher69 View Post
    If these work as well as advertised, they'd be the best thing since sliced bread!!

    https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Wa...a-625119906911

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Do-able; but be aware that just outside of the insulation is where bending will be concentrated. The other concern is the low temp solder used and its actual durability...

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