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Lowering an AWD 300

13K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  Slickawd 
#1 ·
Are there any long-term drivetrain problems associated with lowering an AWD LX car?
 
#2 ·
Aside for going through front axles faster, none. But I'm trying to fix that issue on mine. Looks like the axles are about 3/4" to 1" too short, as the boots are almost fully extended (even at stock height) which causes the inner boot to prematurely fail.
 
#3 ·
I would like the look of the tire just touching the fender well, and the benefit of of a coilover system providing less body roll, but the more I research into dropping an AWD I get a bit gun-shy with the driveline stress.
My idea was to go with the Scale coilovers, or the BC coilovers at a close second. I wanted to do 2" drop, but I have ZERO accounts of how these 3rd gen platforms react to the axle geometry, and camber changes.
 
#4 ·
Here's mine on BC racing coilovers with stock RWD 18" wheels. Only added a rear camber kit.

FB_IMG_1596337567146.jpg - Google Drive

Aside for the CV Boot failing much sooner like I mentioned above, there's no other issues I have found (if you stay with the factory transfer case. I upgraded to the 09+ transfer case and that's only good for straight line since I blew out an axle turning since it's a locked transfer case when engaged). But no issues with the stock transfer case, and mine gets raced a lot
 
#5 ·
Nice!
You are definitely giving me more confidence in this decision.
How many degrees of camber correction can the stock control arms handle? Should I think about a set of adjustable arms and just do it all at once, or am I over-thinking a couple of inches of drop?
 
#7 ·
i think it was 3 degrees before, and 1.5 degrees with the bushings. Can't remember what brand makes them, it's been a long time since I installed them.

Woah pump the brakes, we aren't going to zoom past the transfer case thing, mind explaining how?

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I put a 09+ transfer case in my car, which has an electronically controlled clutch. When it's engaged, it's fully locked like a truck transfer case. So when turning, it will shudder in the front. Normally it's computer controlled and I believe there's a front axle disconnect in the front diff. There's 4 wires coming out of the transfer case, a +/- for both a sensor and engaging the clutch. I ran the clutch wires to the ignition switched 12v outlet in the dash, and added a switch so I have AWD on demand and RWD when I don't want it.

The transfer case bolts up just fine (I think you might have to grind a certain part down on a 05-08 but I have a 2010 nag1 since my stock one failed). Aside for the transfer case, all you need is the front half of a 09+ rear driveshaft, and the back half of your current one (unless you swap in a 09+ rear diff as well, then just use the whole new driveshaft). The front driveshaft is the same.

I installed it mainly for drag racing as traction was already starting to become an issue with street tires and a stall converter.

The first time I engaged it and did a u turn, it blew out the axle:

20210503_172819.jpg - Google Drive

Upon further inspection, the inner joint is nearly fully extended when the suspension is at stock height. Normally it should be at half extension. Lowering the car makes this a little worse since the boot is not only extended, but at an angle all the time.

When you add the pressure from a locked transfer case, the inner joint slides apart.

If you undo the axle nut, there is about 1" of slack (the entire length of the threads on the axle). So to test out the theory, I'm having a local guy extend an old axle about 3/4". Will try it with that and see if that fixes it. It should fix the issue of the axle blowing apart, and it should also fix the issue of the boot prematurely failing on a lowered AWD.

After that just have to find someone to make it properly since I'm looking at installing a 6.4 next year possibly.

All this is a non-issue with the stock transfer case. Just expect to go through axles more frequently (it was 1 set per summer when I was driving it more)
 
#9 ·
My lowered Magnum AWD did blow right side inner boot and joint after 10km drive... :D New cv axle is coming, but damn that cv axle angle... inner is like 2" lower than outer. Also my front is too low now, even its KW min height. Front sway bar is hitting everything. Have to raise front like inch.
 
#13 ·
Most of my problems are mostly because 160k miles and nothing changed on drivetrain, but that cv-axle angle looks rly deep. My bad, didnt check how they did look in stock height.Not sure if new engine mounts would help? Is front end solid connected to frame or engine? Havent check those yet.
 
#14 ·
Well test drive after front cv-axle swap end shortly... got like 10 miles and inner joint of axle popped out... AWD my ass... there i did stand at lights waiting tow truck.:doh:
Well after some 2x4" and 6lbs hammer, i was sure inner joint was seated correctly now :D
And had to raise front like inch. So front sway bar wont hit all speed bumbs etc. And its not even close, how low KW says you can lower it.
But the rear end.... started to work again with that stuck lower shock bolt... nothing moves its solid. 6ft cheater bar, Big Milwaukee M18, heat, etc...
Well time for angle grinder, die grinder and big ass crowbar.
 
#16 ·
My dad and I figured out that the factory axle is about 3/4" too short, even at stock ride height. That's why these cars eat through inner boots. At stock height, the axle is at almost full extension, it should be at half or less than that. If it was longer then all of our lowered issues would likely be gone.
 
#17 ·
Just get the lifetime Warranty axles from Advance. with the 25% off coupon.
They are local = no wait, and they have no problem swapping used for new. Only had to replace the passenger 1 x in 2 years.
they are not that hard to pop out and back in.
 
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