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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Magnum AWD Lower Control Arm Replacement

    So both my lower ball joints on my 06 Magnum AWD are bad, and it looks like the entire lower control arm needs to be replaced. I've seen write ups and videos for people doing front lower ball joints on RWD cars, anyone have some good info on doing the job for a AWD?

    Thanks,
    Dan
    2006 Black Magnum AWD R/T
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Rosemount, MN
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    I dont, but wish you luck.
    2014 Dodge Charger R/T Hemi AWD - Whipple Supercharged 9psi - Diablo I3 tune by Johan - Getrag LSD. BC Racing Coilovers.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Southport, CT
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    Yes, lower control arm has to be replaced because ball joint not serviceable separately. Couple of years ago I replaced pretty much all of the front suspension and it wasn't that bad.
    2006 Black Magnum RT AWD - Sidewinder Cam * Ported Heads * Edelbrock Shorty Headers * Cherry Bomb Vortex Cat Back * SLP Dual-Wall tips * Volant CAI * Diablo Trinity * Johan Tune * KW V2 * 2013 Dodge Charger 19" AWD Wheels *

    2010 Black Jeep Commander Limited

  4. #4
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    Aug 2016
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    where's a good place to get them? I fear cheap chinese crap.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 View Post
    where's a good place to get them? I fear cheap chinese crap.
    RockAuto.com

    They have a 5% discount coupn, in their subforum, or on the web.

    Bob

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  6. #6
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by dw8649 View Post
    So both my lower ball joints on my 06 Magnum AWD are bad, and it looks like the entire lower control arm needs to be replaced. I've seen write ups and videos for people doing front lower ball joints on RWD cars, anyone have some good info on doing the job for a AWD?

    Thanks,
    Dan
    Download your workshop and parts manuals:

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    Bob

    Lux Technologies - LuX Technologies - Custom Interior Light Mods for Chrysler / Dodge / Jeep Platforms [LX/LC/WK]

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 View Post
    where's a good place to get them? I fear cheap chinese crap.
    I'm pretty sure they're all made in China, but I went with the Mevotech control arms because their ball joint has a grease fitting. So far they are holding up fine.



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Minneapolis
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    You've probably already replaced your LCA, but I just did mine this weekend and figured I'd post here for others to use the info.

    The LCA is much easier to replace than the upper control arm. Basic steps are:

    1. Jack up vehicle and secure on jackstands
    2. Remove the 2 aero trays under the vehicle
    3. Undo the inner tie rod boot and unscrew the inner tie rod (you have do to this to gain access to the 18mm bolt for the rear bushing)
    4. Remove the caliper bracket, with caliper attached, and brake rotor. Zip tie the caliper bracket to the upper control arm so the brake line isn't stressed.
    5. Undo the pinch bolt on the strut arm. The bolt has knurls under the head of it, so the bolt head itself won't want to spin easily (though it will if you have an impact gun or a breaker bar).
    6. Undo the lower ball joint nut. Whack the knuckle at the ball joint area hard with a big hammer, took 3 or 4 swing and mine separated from the knuckle (this is the only reason the brake rotor had to be removed, to allow you to swing a hammer and hit the knuckle). A pickle fork would probably work too, but I don't have one.
    7. Use an 18mm socket to remove the 2 bolts that go thru the front and rear lower control arm bushings. An impact makes this quick work. My 2006, 130k mile MN car had no rust in these areas and the bolts spun right out, so thank Chrysler for not using cheap metal for the bolts or bushing material.
    8. Remove the arm. You may need to use a long pry bar to pry the arm UP to get the ball joint out, then pry it DOWN to remove the arm from the car.

    Replacing is the opposite of removal. Quick note:

    1. Before tightening the 3 bushing bolts (the pinch bolt and the front/rear bushing bolts) put the full weight of the car on the suspension on BOTH SIDES of the car. The sway bar is still connected, so if the opposite side of the car is in the air, unsupported, the sway bar will be in complete droop, pushing the control arm down, and you won't be cinching down the bushings at their 'neutral' position, which will lead to premature wear. I left the other side of the car completely assembled and set the car/tire down on one of my oil changing ramps to load it up, then I jacked up on the wheel bearing surface to load the side I was working on to compress the suspension to its neutral position. Then torque the pinch bolt and 2 bushing bolts.
    2. You have an AWD car, which probably means you live in the rust belt. I reassembled everything with a coating of copper antiseize so I can take this apart easily in the future, if need be.
    Last edited by bust0023; 07-18-2019 at 08:12 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Minneapolis
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    I revise my instructions above. You can remove the 3 bolts holding the steering rack and drop the rack a bit to access the rear LCA bolts. That's easier than removing the 2 inner tie rods.

    I didn't think you could drop the rack, mine was hung up while I tried it. I didn't realize there was a third bolt holding it... Whoops!

    I replaced my steering rack bushings this weekend, realizing how easy it is to drop the rack in the process. I would do that over loosening the inner tie rods anytime.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Rosemount, MN
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    Right on. Thx for the update!

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