LX Forums Forum banner

2nd Gen (2011-2014) Charger RT AWD - Rear LSD Install complete

57K views 49 replies 11 participants last post by  drag_racer 
#1 · (Edited)
This Journey began 2 months ago while I scoured the internet for information about putting in a Limited Slip Differential in my 2014 Charger RT AWD. So much bad information exists out there because of Mopar, Aftermarket companies, and the unreliable internet of people. The simplicity of this swap was staggering after wading through vin numbers, part numbers, and taking leaps of faith. Many interchangeable parts on our rear-ends have different part numbers and without an engineer present I made educated decisions about which parts to keep.

Upon completion all I needed for the swap was the 3.06 Getrag LSD Differential (bushings and vert mnt bolt), RWD Axles, and RWD Knuckles. All could be sourced from salvage for under $1k. In addition I used 1.5" Wheel spacers to make up the +40mm offset difference between RWD and AWD wheels (until I get new wheels) currently the Wheels sit unnoticeably from stock. I also replaced Axle seals and Bushings and the Vertical Mounting Bolt.

The Rear Crossmember (cradle) is the same - The Control Arms are different part numbers for different make and models and years, but my donor part are all the same length and mounting as stock and I kept the Aluminum I-beam rather than the donor Steel Tubes. The Sway Bar mounts in the same location so I kept the stock. My Stock Driveshaft bolted right up to the new diff.

There is no cutting - no welding - no modification in anyway. Direct part swap. Took 6 hours

I though about writing a How-to but don't remember everything in exact order and don't want to be responsible for someone's garage fubar.

Things I learned:
1. The rear end assembly is held by 4 bolts, 2 Wheel Speed sensors, e-brake connector, rear brake calipers, and the driveshaft. Undo those and she drops out.
2. The e-brake is a pain and can be rusted. we had to cut one side off and will be replaced next week after its ordered.
3. The calipers can be fed up through the control arms during removal...no need to remove them.
4. The Fuel filler-neck needed to be removed to aid in caliper removal and rearend drop out. pulled drivers rear fender lining for access.
5. It was on the lift but we used a screw jack under the front crossmember so she didn't fall off the lift when we disconnected the Rear end.
6. Lower rearend from the pumpkin. pull axles and hubs and 2 guys can pick up the whole assembly and set on jackstands for carrier removal.

This was a very straightforward swap...just time. But the payoff is great. The out of corner power delivery is excellent. No more wheel spin on left turns...just fantastic.
 
See less See more
#27 ·
That i am not sure. I have read that 1st gens swap the rear crossmember and need custom driveshafts. But i dont have a 1st gen to check.
 
#32 ·
The getrag is not the same diff, even though the gear diameter and ratio are the same. The carrier is offset differently thus the axles.
 
#38 ·
There is no way they run two different gear ratios in the front and rear of the vehicle.
Can you site where you got that information from?
I didn't get it from a site. It's on the build sheets for both of my awd pursuits. There are dozens of not hundreds of examples of this where 4wd and awd vehicles have slightly different ratios. 3.54/3.55 4.10/4.11 are very common in the truck world.

Sent via Telegraph
 
#39 ·
To cite information does not mean specifically a website. It means to divulge where the information was obtained. For example, a works cited page in an MLA paper.

Anyway, I still find that hard to believe.
My 2013 AWD RT had the same front and rear gear ratios and if I so much as slipped the wheels too much, it would through all sorts of codes in the PCM and TCM.
Are you sure you are referring to the build sheet and not the window sticker?
On the window sticker, you could be seeing two gear ratios because on the V6s i believe it was an option to go to 3.07 and that would appear as a package. This would show 3.06 in the base and then a package that has 3.07, so "two" gear ratios.
 
#40 ·
It’s the build sheet. Not window sticker. Both of my cars have the DMP 3.06 rear axle ratio with the DPP 215mm rear axle codes. They also both have the DJL 175MM front axle which only comes in 3.07 ratio. The police cars are different than the V6 or RT cars in that they have the larger rear diff 215mm vs the RT and V6 198mm rear diff.


Sent via Telegraph
 
#41 ·
I have to disagree again.
My 2013 AWD RT had the 175 front and 215 rear and the final drive ratio was 3.06
https://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=2C3CDXDT2DH711588

Can you provide your build sheet using the website above?
Just replace the VIN with yours.

I'm only pushing this because of what I know of the AWD system in the Lx vehicles and how sensitive it is.
I wouldn't want anyone to damage their vehicle.
 
#42 ·
Basically the same. But I’ve done extensive research and the only ratio that the front diff comes in is 3.07 regardless of the engine size or platform.

There are no other options in any of the parts catalogs. 175mm is always 3.07

You can look it up in the Hollander interchange manual if you have access to that. Alternately you can check the available ratios on car-part.com.

4591954AF is the original part number superseded to 68437644AA in the newer cars. All 3.07 ratio.

I’m not sure what else other than pulling a front diff and finding the ratio stamped on the ring gear will convince me otherwise.


Sent via Telegraph
 
#43 ·
Awesome post and a big thank you!

How is everything running after 2 years for you RTdaddy? Sounds like the wheel spacers is the only hurdle for me after all your hard work. If anyone has recommendations for wheel spacers that would help out or if anyone has a recommendation for custom rear axles that would fit the AWD setup.

I am having problems with the pinion seal and axle seals (rear diff on both) leaking when I am hitting the pedal hard. I replaced all 3 seals oem and now the pinion seal is leaking once again (under 1k miles). This symptom is following a recent upgrade of a custom cam with my supercharger. So I'm thinking of doing this swap on my 13 AWD Charger to solve the leaking.
 
#44 ·
I have absolutely no complaints. I have the supercharger now and feel more power out of the corners as well as less of the 1 wheel wonder. I have been autoX and was a beast. Doing a Power Stop Z26 kit today to help with stopping. Love this car.
 
#46 ·
Question...

Do the Getrag axles physically work with the AWD spindles, it's just the length that's the issue? They are both the same spline count so I don't see why they wouldn't.

My dad is a mechanic and he knows someone with a machine shop that can extend the axles, and he's pretty sure he can make them strong enough for at least the stock 5.7.

If I do end up going the route of installing a 6.4, I would either try them and see if they will hold or get the Driveshaft shop to make proper custom axles to hold the power.
 
#48 ·
Does anyone know the part #'s for the AWD rear knuckles? Or is it the bearing that gives the different offset? Having trouble finding the parts needed to piece together a rear suspension for the getrag as I have a 2005 Magnum (will get custom axles made, keeping the AWD offset is more important). Wreckers are so far no help in trying to just get a complete drop-out from a car.

From everything I can find online and part # compatibility, aside for the axles, it seems like the entire rear suspension is identical from RWD to AWD. But that shouldn't be the case since the AWD axles are longer and it has a different wheel offset. Am I missing something obvious in terms of what parts are different?

East Coast Moparts site lists all the rear suspension components (knuckles, control arms, etc.) as being for both RWD, AWD, and SRT.
 
#49 ·
East Coast Moparts site lists all the rear suspension components (knuckles, control arms, etc.) as being for both RWD, AWD, and SRT.
I've come across this many times from many vendors and it isn't helpful!
Go to your local dealer with the vins of the cars with the equipt you're interested in. Get vins from auto trader etc.
Your parts person can enter the vin and print you a list that only covers that car for the parts you want.
Do this for each car and then you can make your own comparisons. Time consuming for sure but it will work.
I went in on a Saturday morning when they had time and got a nice printed copy with exploded view and part numbers.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top