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  1. #46
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    Oct 2017
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    So I confirmed the 2009-2014 5.7 awd driveshaft front half slides right into the rear half of the 05-08 AWD driveshaft. Once the output shaft on the transmission is cut down, everything should fit together with a few shorter transfer case bolts. Then I have to figure out the 5V switched setup to activate it.

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefo View Post
    So I confirmed the 2009-2014 5.7 awd driveshaft front half slides right into the rear half of the 05-08 AWD driveshaft. Once the output shaft on the transmission is cut down, everything should fit together with a few shorter transfer case bolts. Then I have to figure out the 5V switched setup to activate it.
    Any chance you could manufacture a spacer?


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  3. #48
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    Oct 2017
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    Just completed the swap. Using a switch with 12V to turn the clutch on and off. Tested it on jack stands, and so far so good!

    So total parts needed: Front half of rear 2009-2014 awd 5.7 driveshaft (slip onto rear portion of your current driveshaft), 2009-2014 5.7 transfer case, extra transfer case to trans bolts, cut ~1" off the end of the transmission output shaft, and a way to switch the clutch on and off (I chose a 12v on-off switch).

    I'd also recommended to check the gear on the trans that slides into the transfer case for wear/play. The nut was loose on mine and the splines/gear was worn, so I swapped on a lower mile gear and torqued it to spec with sealer on the splines and restaked the nut.
    Likes Lowlife44 liked this post

  4. #49
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    Nov 2017
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    Have you taken a test drive?
    Any binding when the transfer case is inactive? Or active?

    Did you machine the trans shaft?

    Any issue using the oe front shaft?






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  5. #50
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    Oct 2017
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    I will have to drive it soon. It wont chatter in 2wd as I can turn the driveshaft by hand, but I'm sure it will chatter just like a 4wd setup with the 12v switched on.

    I used a cutoff wheel to cut the end of the shaft off.

    The front driveshaft is the same from 2005-2014.

  6. #51
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    Any pics or videos would be much appreciated. Full time 05-08 to part time 09-up t case swap?


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  7. #52
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    Any updates???


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  8. #53
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    Everything works. The tires chatter around turns when it's turned on of course. This forum won't let me post photos for some reason.

  9. #54
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    Full time 05-08 to part time 09-up t case swap?

    Maybe an adjustable regulator will help with the chatter. I have no idea what I’m talking about.... Diablo help!! I would think reducing the voltage to the E clutch would allow the clutch(es?) to slip.
    Im struggle to find much info on the E clutch operations.


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  10. #55
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    Oct 2017
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    I'm going to stick with 0V or 12V for racing. I'm sure you could use a variable voltage regulator to adjust the clutch grab... but nothing will mimic how the 09+ awd controller adjusts voltage.

  11. #56
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    An update: So far so good. 2wd results in massive wheelspin, 4wd hooks and books

  12. #57
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    Nov 2017
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    Any chance of a video?


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  13. #58
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Saskatoon, Sask.
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    Apparently beware of sharp turns with the 09+ transfer case (when it's engaged). This was a new axle 50km ago.

    Since the transfer case is like a locked diff when it's engaged, it will shudder around corners. Didn't expect this though


    20210503_172819.jpg - Google Drive

    2008 Dodge Magnum SXT AWD - Daily Driver
    2005 Dodge Magnum R/T AWD - Weekend Toy
    2012 Dodge Avenger R/T - Daily Driver

    Performance mods: Edge 3200 Stall, HP Tuners, SLP LM2, Custom Dual CAI, BCRacing Coilovers, R1 Concepts brakes, Tranzformer, HemiTuner TCM, Paramount Stage 2 Valve Body, Borg Warner Transfer Case
    Other: 2008 SRT Fascia, Road and Track Seats

    60' - 1.95
    1/4 - 13.97 @ 99.7MPH




  14. #59
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Saskatoon, Sask.
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    So we did some research in this today to see what the issue is, here's what we found out:

    At stock ride height, the axle is at about 80-90% extension, when it should be about 50% extension (in regards to the in/out movement in the inner cup). This means that the boot is extended further than it should be, and the rollers on the axle are almost at the end of the inner cup. When you take into account that lowering the car makes it extend a little bit further, that explains why this can happen. This also explains why inner boots are common to go bad on a lowered AWD (mine was annually)

    When the front end is fully assembled, with the axle nut removed, there is a little over 0.9" of play from pushing in the axle to being bottomed out, to where it would be when the nut is on and tight.

    So our next step is to take a scrap old axle I kept, and cut/extend it by 3/4". This should put it at the proper fitment it SHOULD have been at from the factory. So ideally, this would mean even a lowered AWD will not go through inner CV boots more frequently. Assuming that works, I'm gonna have the Driveshaft shop make me a custom set of axles.

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