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  1. #1
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    How to wire a secondhand MSRT8 Kicker sub into an R/T

    I recently purchased a used OEM MSRT8 Kicker sub. I have a Magnum R/T with the Boston Acoustics 6 speaker system. As you may (or may not) know, there is no wiring in place for a sub with the BA system, nor is there wiring for power or ground for a sub. After hours upon hours of searching for the factory plug, using part numbers from the original paperwork, using part numbers from other people's posts, digging through Kicker documentation, only to find that it doesn't exists "in the wild" - only as part of the entire Kicker package - I decided to build my own adapter. Granted, this isn't a fully enclosed adapter for the factory plug, but I bet with a little more creativity (maybe a piece of milled aluminum and a drill press) you could easily make it truly "plug-n-play". I had some parts lying around the house from other installs, but with just some basic tools, you should be able to do this project for less than $30. The MOPAR sub install PDF is a good reference for how to obtain the audio signal for the sub, and I’ll refer to it later, so here’s the link: http://www.moparsupercenter.com/pdfs/77KICK03.pdf.

    What you'll need:
    Four (4) 1/8” fully insulated Quick Disconnects (female) - $4
    Two (2) wire taps - usually come in a larger pack – $2
    Two (2) ring terminal connectors – usually come in a larger pack – $2
    One (1) 14 gauge butt splice connector – usually come in a larger pack – $2
    14 gauge insulated wire (~12 ft), red, power - $5
    14 gauge insulated wire (~12 ft), black, ground - $5
    14 gauge speaker wire (~15 ft) - $8
    Inline fuse holder – 20A - $2
    10A fuses - $2
    12mm (or ½” coarse thread wing nut) – necessary if you didn’t get one with your sub - $2
    Wire Stippers
    Wire Crimpers


    You can get 14 gauge insulated wire from almost anywhere. You’ll usually see it in a roll of 25ft. You should be able to find insulated wire at Radio Shack, Walmart, any electronics store or your local Autozone/Napa/Advanced Auto Parts store.

    I bought my fully insulated Quick Disconnects from Radio Shack – they came in a pack of 6 of all female quick disconnects, in three sizes, 1/8”, 3/16”, and 1/4". You’ll need two packages to get four 1/8” connectors, unless you can find another shop that will sell them in their own pack, or in bulk. At Radio Shack, they were about $2/bag.


    Fig 1.


    Once home, I realized I had to “open then up” a bit so that they would slide onto the factory Kicker pins smoothly, but a small jeweler’s screwdriver did just that – they’re extremely stiff to get onto the pins otherwise, so much so that I was afraid of breaking the factory pins.


    Fig 2.

    While you’re at Radio Shack, shop for anything else on the list that you do not already have. I picked up an inline blade fuse holder (rated for 20A) while I was there for around $2. I could have bought the 30A fuse holder, but it’s overkill for this setup... I’ve seen a few posts on what fuse should be used with the stock sub. An electrician friend (verified by some Google searching to make sure he wasn't blowing smoke) led me down this path:
    Amps needed can easily be determined if you know the watts and the voltage. Since we know the stock Kicker sub is 100W (max) and the voltage is at minimum 12V, divide the watts by the voltage to get the amps, or in this case, 100W/12V = 8.33A. A good rule of thumb is to never use more than 80% of an amperage rating, but since they don’t make an 11A fuse, a 10A fuse should handle this load nicely. Furthermore, when it comes to wiring, 14 gauge wiring is rated for 17 amps (http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Wire-Gauge_Ampacity). I would never run 17 amps through such thin wire for risk of burning the insulation and starting a fire, but remembering the 80% rule, we should be able to safely run 13.6 amps through it, and since our fuse is 10A, we’ll never run more than 10A (or *pop*!). Also, 14 gauge wire was the largest diameter wire the connectors would handle, so it’s a good thing the wire could handle the amps!


    So, once you’re gathered all of your parts, it’s time to get to work! First, take out everything in the back of your Magnum so that you’re down to the spare tire. Put your rear seats down (the driver’s side is mandatory, the passenger side is optional, but will help if it’s down) and unvelcro and unbutton those weird seat flaps.



    Fig 3.

    Then run both the red and black 14 gauge wires from the driver’s side backseat upright lock (where the sub’s side arm will hook on to) down to where your “latch system” hooks are in the seat bottom, and then over to the passenger side.


    Fig 4.

    Once on the passenger side, you’ll find a main wiring channel. Feed the wire through the wiring channel, past the battery, to the fuse box main lug.


    Fig 5.


    Fig 6.


    Once at the fuse box main lug and you’ve routed the wiring you way you want (up and down and over and around), cut and strip the ends. For the red (power) wire, strip and connect with a butt splice one end of your inline fuse holder. Then strip the other end of the fuse holder and attach a ring terminal connector. This will later be attached to your fuse box main lug. For your black (ground) wire, attach a ring terminal connector. This will later be attached to one of the two factory ground points next to the battery (your choice).


    Fig 7.


    Fig 8.

    Next, we’ll wire the audio. The MOPAR sub install PDF has a good write-up on this, so I won’t cover it. Mainly, get the wire tapped into your existing front driver’s side door audio and run the wiring under the trim, under the back seat to the same spot where your power and ground wires terminate.

    Once all wires are in place (power, ground, speaker +, speaker -) we’ll add the insulated quick disconnects. Strip all four wires and crimp the connectors in place.


    Fig 9.

    Lastly, we’ll make our final power and ground connections. Unscrew the nut on the fuse box main lug and attach the ring terminal, reconnecting the nut afterwards. Do the same for your grounding point with the ground wire. Make sure to tighten them both snugly so they do not loosen.

    (Refer to Fig 7 & Fig 8 for where these connections are made)


    Now you should be set for a test. Set the Kicker sub on the back of the backseat while it’s down and hook up your connections, working from the outside in. Match red to red (+), black to black (-), speaker positive, then speaker negative. The last one might be a little snug getting into place, but once in, they won’t budge.


    Fig 10.

    Turn you car on Acc, turn on the stereo (softly), make sure the bass is set somewhere between 6-9 and check the subs functionality. You should hear some sound coming from it. Once you know it’s working, shut everything off, put the back of your car back together, tape up the new grouping of four wires you ran, mount the sub behind the seat so the factory mounts line up on the locking latch on the side and the bolt under seat (don’t forget the wing nut, the sub will rattle tremendously if you don’t have it bolted down). Return the seatback to its upright position and go for a loud drive!


    Fig 11.


    Fig 12.


    Fig 13.


    Fig 14.


    Fig 15.
    Last edited by Tenacious[B]; 12-31-2010 at 02:17 PM.

    2005 Inferno Red Magnum RT
    Thanks fnkychkn thanked for this post



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    So I finally installed my srt8 kicker sub in my r/t magnum. But it's making like a bump sound or single pop sound while I'm in the car . Anyone have this issue or know how to fix this? I've tried to switch the speaker wires around but still does the same thing . And all my connections are nice and tight . Any suggestions?and there is sound coming out of it .
    06 dodge magnum srt8 :Lmi true cai - bbk power plus ported 85mm tb - 180 degree thermostat - magna flow cat back -Custome tune 400rwhp ad 430 ft lbs tq

  3. #3
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    Anyone got a clue? I don't know much when it comes to sound systems

  4. #4
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    I would start with your ground. Make sure that your ground connection is secure and sitting tight to metal. Unhook your ground connection at the point where it touches the car and rub some sandpaper on it, or a wire brush, to clean it up a bit and re-seat the ground connection. Where did you hook your ground to from the sub?

  5. #5
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    Exactly like figure 7 did. I wire brushed everything still the same problem

  6. #6
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    What about figure 8? That's where the ground connection terminates to the frame of the car.

  7. #7
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    Sorry ment figure 8 . Figure 7 is the same as well thoe . Maybe the factory amp? Or maybe I connected the speaker wires wrong . The speaker wires was the only one I wasnt 100% sure on since I couldn't get a clear color picture to connect it too. Ill take a picture of it tomorrow where and how I have everything connected .thanx btw for taking ur time to help me out. I appreciate it.

  8. #8
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    Sep 2012
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    is it better to wire the power cable to the fuse box or straight to the battery

  9. #9
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    Dec 2010
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    Can I run the speaker wire to the speakers in the rear or do I have to run it to the front speaker?

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