Manton Pushrods

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  1. #1
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    Wheels size to help 60'

    I went drag racing with a buddy for the first time this last weekend. My car is a 2006 300c srt8 with an SRT max plus cam, 1 3/4" longtubes, catless mids, 180° thermostat, and Johan tune. I was running 275/40r20 street tires and could not get this car out of the hole at all. My best 60' was a 2.07. I've been looking at a set of either 17" or 18" wheels with a drag radial and was wondering what sizes you guys have had luck with. I was hoping to keep the tire dimensions the same and drop the wheel height. Like a 275/40r17 or 285/40r18. That should help with the effective gear ratio and get this car to 60' better but I was wondering if the abs will have a fit trying to run that much shorter of a tire in the rear versus the front. Any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
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    275/45/17 or 275/50/17


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  3. #3
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    my EVIC usually tells me that all four wheels have fallen off the car after the 3rd pass of the night. I use a 28" slick on a 17" wheel. My 60' are low 1.7s. Same cam as you, but with a TC and trans. Before the TC I had a pair of 275 DRs on 17" wheels and had low 1.8s 60's. not relevant to your situation, but it makes me smile to type...on a 150 shot I pull 1.5s.

    bill

    2007 BB Charger SRT8
    Airaid CAI, 180 Tstat, BT Catch Can, D1S HID headlight conversion, red led interior swap, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, MTCM, 3.73 getrag, six speed motor mounts, Lakewood 70/30 front shocks w/ V6 springs and 50/50s in back, SRT Max Plus, Paramount 55series Nag1 and torque converter, CTP solid cradle bushings
    285/35 R20 Michelin Pilot Supersports all 4 wheels
    28" hoosier slicks, MH racemaster skinnies.
    Tuned by Tim @ MPH. 403 RWHP, 402 TQ.
    [email protected], 1.762 60' 620 DA

  4. #4
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    Aug 2016
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    If you’re interested, I have a set of 18x10’s with 305/40/18(27.6”) MT et SS. I ran consistent 1.6x 60’ with the same setup only a 555r nittos. I’m currently running a 17x10 w/ 315/50 on them , but I’m also running a 3.70 with an A8. Anyhow , there’s a number of different sizes that will work for your application, what gear are you running, assuming you’re a nag1


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  5. #5
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    Wheels size to help 60'

    Are you hooking or no?
    If you aren’t hooking then tire side wall and width will certainly help. Changing the final drive ratio will certainly help but from my experience, will not cut the 60’ that dramatically.
    If you are hooking then changing the final drive ratio will help but definitely wont cut your 60’ THAT dramatically. Consider a stall converter that matches the power curve of the car. That will cut 60’ better than a set of wheels and tires.

    Now back to your actual questions. I’ve ran 28” fronts and 26-30” rears on my 13’ Challenger RT with no issues at the track. I ran 17x9.5 racestars with 305/45r17 Mickeys and now run 15x10s with 325/50r15s. Street Rs and Street SS tires are both very effective. Tire sidewall is just as important, if not more so, than width. So don’t cut the rear tire too short just to try and get more gear.

    Of course power level is a determining factor with what you should go with tire wise.


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    Last edited by Newoldchallenger; 07-09-2019 at 11:24 PM.

  6. #6
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    I wasnt spinning at all, but I also didnt stall the car up over 1100 rpm because I was nervous I was going to red light lol. I'm running the factory 3.06 rear gear and would prefer to leave them because I drive this car every day. It is a stock nag1 trans as well. A 1.8x 60' would make me extremely happy lol.

  7. #7
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    While drag radials and wheels to match are definitely a good investment (the first thing I do to any car before power mods), I don’t think you are going to get what you are after with them alone.
    They will shave some rotational weight and definitely give a better hook but if you aren’t spinning, it’s not going to be that helpful. Gearing the car down with a shorter tire will help some but I don’t think that will get you that 1.8x 60’ if that’s all you do.

    I still think a stall converter that matches the power curve of the car is the most cost effective means at getting that 60’ down. I’m not familiar with the cam so I cannot point you in the correct stall speed direction (probably something between 2800-3300). A good converter will run you $500-800 depending.
    But then you may have traction issues that arise from the new stall so drag wheels/tires may be in order anyway.


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  8. #8
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    Mar 2017
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    I just re-read your original post. With a 6.1, even a stock one, you should be roasting street tires off the line even at a well prepared track... especially running 275's.

    Turn off the traction control, raise the launch RPM's to ~1200-1300 and when the last yellow light lights up, let off the brake and mash the skinny pedal.

    Before you spend money on DRs or gears, practice launching. Hit the track as often as you can (maybe even a back road somewhere). Launch harder each time. You're going to (or should be anyhow) roast the tires a few times, and that's ok. You'll get the feel of it as you progress and your 60' times will improve accordingly.

    Launching on street tires is a balancing act between spinning and hooking. It's one you have learn from trial and error, by practicing. It can't be taught by reading about it.

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  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the info guys. Think I'm gunna get a higher stall converter and then the drag radials. Like I said before I've only gone racing the one time and had a blast. My car didnt run as well as I would have expected it too. But now I wanna get the car running as fast as I can and that's where I'm stuck at now lol. I'm gunna practice launching the car more and see if I can get the launch down better. Like I said I didnt stall it up that much and likely was the reason I wasnt running like I thought I should have.

  10. #10
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    if you get a higher stall converter you will see a huge difference at the track. I had to get a MTCM soon after my converter to make it play nice for normal street driving, but your situation might be different.

    bill



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