Manton Pushrods

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  1. #16
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    Sep 2004
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    Old Hickory, TN
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    If you are running that hot, I suspect that your variance may be related to intake temps. I don't understand why you are pumping the brakes after the 330. If you let the car shift itself, it will be more consistent and the car is always more consistent than your brake action. Just dial to what the car wants to run.



  2. #17
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    Jan 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by done View Post
    If you are running that hot, I suspect that your variance may be related to intake temps. I don't understand why you are pumping the brakes after the 330. If you let the car shift itself, it will be more consistent and the car is always more consistent than your brake action. Just dial to what the car wants to run.
    You can scrub ET by braking or lifting on an off the gas. Most street cars are not in high gear as they cross the finish. If you lift the gas the car will upshift. Stabbing the brake with the gas floored won't allow the car to prematurely upshift. The car is always in D and allow to shift itself. There is no way to safely scrub .09 if you wait the the mph cone. I run the car hot because near the end of the race the last 3 or so rounds are very quick double quick if running 2 classes. Lets say for the sake of argument that the DA and all other variables are constant. Air temp, wind, track, etc. In time shots you went 13.31, 13.26, then 13.37. First round and your up against the current points leader dialed in at 12.55, You have a inconsistent car. What would you dial and do to get a win this round? I would set up for a .020 RT, dial 13.44 then if I felt like I hit the tree drive the stripe and take a .019 - .010 MOV, If I felt like to really missed the tree then back in as usual then dump hard (never lock the brakes up) inside the MPH cone (on brakes and lift off the gas) giving the stripe and getting behind my opponent as much as possible. I look at the middle of my opponents windshield pillar to judge distance. That spot is good for most races. If my shoulder is even with the middle of the pillar as we cross then I am in front by an acceptable MOV, Yes I'm looking at my opponent as we cross and most of the time going down the track. One eye looking forward and one eye on the other car. Takes practice lol. The hitters can see a .005 MOV or less.
    Likes Niner, HeyBurton liked this post

  3. #18
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    Sep 2004
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    kazman,

    I think you make your life way to complicated.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by done View Post
    kazman, I think you make your life way to complicated.
    Bracket racing is extremely complicated. A lot more than dialing hard, cutting a .000 light and running it out the back door. If that's all you have in your tool box then that's what you are forced to use. I'm not saying its right or wrong just giving the OP another option. Its pretty hard to get a win light when your guessing at the dial. I usually had the slower car so setting up for a "safe" .020 (first car red is dead) and holding a bunch was my best option. There were rounds when I switched up and set for a .00X and dialed to go dead on with a little change but only when I felt that I had to do so. Dialing on 5 numbers. Spot dropping is another option and used when necessary. A great option for an opponent know for sand bagging and driving the strip. Yep its complicated.

  5. #20
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    Sep 2004
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    Kazman,

    Show me the money!

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by done View Post
    Kazman, Show me the money!
    As soon as I get my very first round #1 win I will let you know. Last time out the announcer on the PA system said I was only a heartbeat away.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by kazman View Post
    As soon as I get my very first round #1 win I will let you know. Last time out the announcer on the PA system said I was only a heartbeat away.
    In all seriousness, I want to know if the methods you describe actually produce wins. I am skeptical, based on my experiences. Show me your winnings and I will show you mine.

  8. #23
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    Dec 2012
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    Ajax Ontario Canada
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    I want to see some time slips of where its inconsistent.

    We can debate tactics but it does not answer the question.

    To me the burnout is way too short 1-2 sec won't dry the tires from rolling through the water. I always got big wheel speed real quick.

    I never cooled the car down between passes, never had an issue with too hot, usually ran around 190-200f. First pass of the day was always slow when trans and rear were cold.

  9. #24
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    Jan 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glen440 View Post
    I want to see some time slips of where its inconsistent. We can debate tactics but it does not answer the question. To me the burnout is way too short 1-2 sec won't dry the tires from rolling through the water. I always got big wheel speed real quick. I never cooled the car down between passes, never had an issue with too hot, usually ran around 190-200f. First pass of the day was always slow when trans and rear were cold.
    For the burnout I would spin the tires until I felt the car "squat" then let off the brake as let the car spin forward. Anyone have input on installing a 160 degree thermostat? Anyone have input on changing spark plugs brand, gap, and perhaps a heat range cooler? Done: can you please post more about the battery voltage? i never thought of that but can see how that may effect sensor readings. OP: can you post a set of time slips for a days race? we can then try to figure out where and when the car drops and picks up. keeping track of each run's DA and all the cars temps (water, oil, trans) for the run.

  10. #25
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    Sep 2004
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    Battery voltage is above 13V when the car is running, always. For those running fans with the motor off, my car will start with the voltage is as low as 11.7 Volts.

  11. #26
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    Dec 2013
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    Northern California
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    Gentlemen, sorry for disappearing. I was interested in seeing what Done and Kazman had to say in the back and forth, and also was just on vacation and off of the computer for most of it. At the last race I watched the engine temp (had to look it up to see how to access the "secret" Evic menu for that reading). Temps stayed between 195 and 199 with occasional blips into the 194 or 200 range. It will be interesting to see how it looks over the course of a warm day but may need to wait until next year for that info. Battery voltage hovered around 13.9 for the most part, never dipping much below that and not going much higher - occasionally hit 14.1

    Kazman you're being sarcastic with the not winning a round yet line right? Because if you can set yourself up for a .020 light and are even sort of decent at the stripe, you should be winning events, not just rounds.

    Glen440: I can try and dig up some time slips that show an inconsistency of a tenth or more, but the problem that plagues me more often is when the car should pick up .03 based on weather, time between runs, etc., and instead slows down .03, leaving me .06 off my number and a high likelihood of losing the round. And in all honesty, I'm not good enough at the stripe in a slow 13.5-second car to always be intentionally holding against 10-second cars with 20-30 mph on me.

    I make note in my log book of the burnout and if it was good or if switched to a one-wheel burnout, etc. I also track weather elements (wind speed/direction, DA, humidity and temp), but not as much about car temps. I'll start paying more attention.

    Thanks for all of the input/discussion so far!
    I'm Chris. Most people call me Burton.

    Current: '13 Challenger R/T; Auto; Factory Limited Slip; LMI True CAI; Diablosport DCX (tuned by Johan); Flowmaster 40 Series; Hurst Roll Control
    Past: '08 Charger R/T; Auto; LMI True CAI; Diablosport In-Tune (tuned by Johan); Flowmaster 60 Series; SLP Line Lock


  12. #27
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    Dec 2012
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    Ajax Ontario Canada
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    Sounds like an open rear, near impossible for a consistent 60'.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glen440 View Post
    Sounds like an open rear, near impossible for a consistent 60'.
    Factory limited slip, it was one of the requirements for me when I bought the car because I had already struggled with an open diff at the track in my 06 charger.

  14. #29
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    Jan 2015
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    Were all here trying to help but without the time slips and date we are all guessing. I assume you are using a weather station to predict ET. Are you keeping track of dew point? When the outside air reached the dew point (car windows fog up) the car won't run any quicker. What rear tires and how old are they? I like Mickey Thompson ET Streets. Did you notice what the other racers are dialing ? Zero in on 1 -3 of the hitters and record their time runs and dial and win/losses. Bracket races tend to pack up right after a loss. Stick around and watch if you can and get as much education as possible. As far as holding you really need to decide which is the best strategy for that round to get a win. If you feel you cant hold then DON'T. Holding takes practice and be sure to hold at least 6 or more. Holding 3-4 is the worst thing you can do because you don't know if your braking out, running dead on, or not making the dial. I had a 14 second car and could judge up to a 10.0 car. Not at first but with enough passes was able to do that. In a 12 second car a 9.0 was no problem. The main problem I would have is racing a slower car. Yes still have a hard time chasing and now in in a high 9 second car. Your are judging speed and distance all the time you drive on the street. Making a right turn on red with a 40 mph speed limit. You are stopped and they are coming towards you at 40mph. You can judge that and know when to pull out. Again when you are entering and interstate from the onramp. Your doing 40 and speeding up and the traffic is doing 70mph. We judge that every day with no problem. OP if you want make a new thread about bracket racing strategy. As I was reminded this is about your cars consistency.

  15. #30
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    Oct 2010
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    I don't know if i'm just lucky but i've been pretty fortunate with a very forgiving car in the sense of my staging, temps, etc. i make a pretty half asses effort to keep it the same every time...half asses being the key word here. i'm usually within a .010 tolerance being as reckless as i am at times. 1/4 mile racing
    Show some slips though... that would be the best place to start in my opinion.
    Are you running the car in your signature? i don't believe they made a factory LSD in 2007
    I got away the MT S/S and went to a full slick or the MT ET street R - i had a hard time getting the S/S to hook up and needed to do big nasty burnouts to have any luck

    I used to have issues with shift points varying (even in auto...made no sense to me) so i got a TCM from AJ. tuned shift points and what not with the auto up-shift in the slap stick mode. helped me a ton. Now i also know that i'm leaving in 1st...sometimes it would leave in 2nd otherwise.
    2006 Dodge Magnum - 6.1 w/ PWR ported Apache heads, Comp 273, 4000 TC, 3.73 Getrag, Headlight CAI, Hemituner TCM

    11.32x @ 119.xx

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