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View Full Version : How To: Dodge OEM Daytona/SRT8 spoiler install



Samoan Tsunami
12-30-2007, 06:50 PM
Finally was able to pick one up. most of the write ups show a before and after of what it looks like. just trying to make one a bit more detailed with locationsa and measurements.
Just to note, this is for the OEM DODGE spoiler. this may or may not work with the "OEM STYLE" spoilers sold elsewhere. but this is EXACTLY what i did a few hours ago to install the dodge daytona spoiler.
tools used:
Painters Tape
Measuring Tape
straight edge
1/8 drill bit.
13/64 drill bit (optional)
7/32 drill bit (semi - optional)
1/4 drill bit (Semi - optional)
center punch - i used a non spring loaded.
drill
blue painters masking tape
10mm socket regular or deep, deep preferred and/or extension.
slight bit of courage, or an "eat bullets, sh*t icecream mindset

*also to note in said pics are the measurements i recieved from X E Ryder, so the measurements credits goes to him.*
1) First thing i did was lay down a 4.5 strip of tape right at the edge of the trunk.
2) Next measure about 3 inches above (closer to the rear window) the tape and lay down another 3 inches worth of strip for the second set of holes.
http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/Charger/Spoiler/Picture_004.jpg
3) Measure the width of the trunk. if i remember correctly, the points i measured with tape were about 47 above (closer to window) the lights and 43 right around the lights (tail lights)
4) determine the center line of the trunk. you can also use the center line of the heated window element. there is one part of it that runs directly down the middle of the car window.
5) mark the center line on both strips of tape.
http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/Charger/Spoiler/Picture_006.jpg
6) on the lower (closer to the end of the trunk and tail lights) use the measuring tape to tape and mark 30 inches with the centerline being the 15th inch.
so basically if you start at the centerline, measure 15 inches in both directions and mark at the top and bottom of the lower strip of tape. this way you can use the straight edge to connect both marks and form a line at the end of the terminal 15 inch lines on both sides. (15 x 2 = 30)
7) at the outer edge of the 15 inch mark, measure 3/4 of an inch from the edge/end of the car. THESE WILL BE THE HOLES TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE SPOILER.
8) since the painters tape is there already, i removed the tape from the threads of the spoiler. put the rear screws on the marks where the rear holes should be drilled. dont drill YET, just set the spoiler on top of the holes to make sure you measured correctly. you may have to shift the spoiler a smidgen (1/16th or less) to the right or left.
#9 has two ways, i did both to make sure
HARDER MORE TEDIOUS WAY
9a) if correct, remove spoiler for a sec, and repeat steps 4 through 6, but meausre a total of 15 and 9/1ths from the centerline on the "UPPER" (closest to the window) strip of tape that you laid down in the beginning.
When you get the 31 and 1/8th inch distance measured and marked, from the outer most line at the end of the 15 and 9/16th line, make sure the distance from the location of the first holes measure 5 and 1/8th inches between the upper and lower holes.
EASIER AND JUST AS ACCURATE WAY
9b) if correct, leave spoiler sitting on both strips of tape. press on the front half of the spoiler to where the screws make contact with the tape. simply use a marker, pencil, blood, etc to draw a close circle around where the front screw studs touch the tape.
then measure all the distances in 9a and included diagram to make sure.
http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/Charger/Spoiler/Picture_005.jpg

10) make small adjustments as needed. if everything matches up, start out with a center punch. i never used one before, so i just balled up a fist and beat the top of it 3-5 times till it made a divet on top of the measured points located on the tape.
11) man up and drill locations. I started with a 1/8th drill bit, then set the spoiler on top to make sure the holes i JUST drilled were still in synch with the spoiler studs.
then a 13/64th bit, after this point i did another test fit. the beginning of the studs should sink into the 13/64 holes. the threads however will not. so remove the spoiler again.
then went to the 7/32. once the 7/32 went through i just wiggled the drill around a bit to slightly enlarge the hole. i could have simply just gone up one size from 7/32 which would be the 1/4 drill bit and called it a day, but since i had already been working on this in light rain for the past 40 minutes, i really didnt feel like walking back in once again to get another drill bit.

12) once holes are drilled insert spoiler studs into the holes and pop the trunk. while holding the spoiler with the trunk open (or have someone help out by holding the spoiler in the holse while you wrench, thread on the upper (closest to window) washer and nut for the spoiler. do the same for the holes toward the rear (will be through a small opening in the sheet metal. its slightly deeper than the holes closest to the window, hence you might need the deep well socket, or an extension.

once done, close trunk, admire, drive.
http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/Charger/Spoiler/Picture_007.jpg
it really isnt as hard or as bad as it may seem. as most of the posts already say...take your time, measure, and "Do Work", brah!:grin: