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View Full Version : Magnum Shaved Hatch Popper How-To



SoCalRT
05-26-2007, 11:02 PM
Last summer I shaved the rear hatch on my Magnum, this is my favorite mod so far. One of the problems with it is that the stock release doesn't pop the hatch high enough to clear the latch, so it requires two hands, and a second push of the release to open it up. The fix for this is an old school door popper I picked up at the local hot rod shop. StylinConcepts also carries the similar item for $20. http://www.stylinconcepts.com/part.aspx/partid/492663/partfamilyid/303/subcategoryid/235/categoryid/25

Tools needs are a drill, 1/4" and 5/8" drill bits, 3/4" hole saw, hack saw, belt sander, file and a couple of wrenches.
Materials needed are a door popper, aluminum block, section of 3/4" angle iron, 1/8" aluminium panel for the striker panel and a few nuts and bolts...

Here are the Popper and the spacer block...

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Popper.jpghttp://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Spacer-Block.jpg

Next I found a spot where I could mount the popper. About the only place I could find that would work was on the beam that the latch is also mounted. A spacer was required to make the popper work correctly. I cut the spacer from a hunk of aluminum and it measures 1" x 2" x 7/8" thick. I used the popper to mark the hole locations and drilled the mounting holes and the hole for the popper shaft. So I trimmed back the Dynomat and drilled the holes.
Here are a couple of reference shots...

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Popper-Holes.jpghttp://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Popper-Holes2.jpg

Next I mounted the spacer and popper with the 1/4" x 1" bolts and nylox nuts. After it was mounted I eyeballed the location for the hole in the plastic panel. I first drilled a very small hole to insure that I had it centered over the popper then drilled it out with a hole saw.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Popper-Installed.jpghttp://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Popper-Hole.jpg

With the popper mounted I moved to the striker panel. The popper I bought came with a small 1" x 2" piece of metal with an adhesive backing. The pressure of the popper on the small striker started to warp the plastic interior panel after a short while. I added a billet panel that Cam made up for me after we did some work on TMagnums ride, KWv2's and rotors. I made up a brace for the back side of the hatch interior panel from some 3/4" angle. This is working out fine, no more panel warping...

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Billet-Plate.jpghttp://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Brace.jpg

Here are a couple of shots of the finished install and of the extra lift the popper gives the hatch. Now you don't need two hands to open a shaved hatch.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Finished-Popper.jpghttp://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Tech%20Stuff/Hatch%20Popper/Hatch-Gap.jpg

If you missed the how-to I did on relocating the hatch release switch here is a link. http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=35069

If you have any questions, just give me a shout....

SoCalRT
06-01-2007, 12:01 AM
I did the popper install last July, since then others have found a better way to lift the hatch.
I just installed the small Dorman "Help " brand exhaust springs #03080, I picked them up at Kragen, most other stores can also order them.
It literally took less than 10 minutes and only required a small screwdriver and a piece of PVC to hold up the hatch while I did the install. You unscrew the end of the hatch strut slide the spring on and reinstall.
It is a very tight fit, as the spring is fully compressed and you need to remove the foam pad on the strut.