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joseph
10-24-2006, 02:30 PM
This will take care of the leaking O-rings, filter and fluid change, and water intake issue at the base of the filler tube.

FYI: This is for my 05 Rt (Hemi) built 10/04, I don't know how the V-6 tranny is, and you need to verify the quantity of ATF needed for servicing, before working on yours, it's your car, it's your responsibility.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this due to lack of mechanical ability, take it to the dealer, if you still have the warranty it's ok, if not they'll charge you about $250 for the following work.

You'll need:

T-30 star socket and basic tools.
5.3Qts of AFT4 (syn) ($3.49/qt at Checker)
long neck funnel
Ramps
Jack or Jacktstand
Large container
Black silicone
1 large O-ring, DCX dealer part# 68001278AA ($1.98) UPDATE: It's preferable to use the O-rings from the Mercedes Benz dealer, they fix the problem better, so I've heard, $3 each + tax, they call them seal rings, parts#: MBN 026997404828 and # MBN 026997414828.
1 small O-ring, DCX dealer part# 68001279AA ($2.30)
1 Transmissiom filter, dealer part# 52108325AA ($11.62)Click on picture to make them bigger.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1145.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1145.jpg)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1141.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1141.jpg)

To start:

Put the car on ramps, set parking brake
support transmission with jack or jackstand
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1147.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1147.jpg)
Remove the 2 middle bolts (15mm)of the crossmember
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1148.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1148.jpg)
Remove crossmember by removing the 4 bolts (1/2")
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1146.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1146.jpg)
Place large container under tranny pan and remove bolts with T-30 star socket (start from the rear first to let it drain as much as possible before removing the pan) (remove filler plug also)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1149.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1149.jpg)
Remove pan, clean pan, re-usable gasket and magnetic plug
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1152.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1152.jpg)
Pull down on filter to remove it
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1151.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1151.jpg)
Make O-ring of new filter wet with ATF4 and install new filter after all fluid has drained, just push it in making sure tab is in hole.Now let's work on the 2 O-rings:

Turn bayonnet lock counterclock wise (use large pliers if needed) and remove connector
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1157.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1157.jpg)
Remove plug with a 7mm wrench
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1160.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1160.jpg)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1158.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1158.jpg)
Make the 2 O-rings wet with ATF4 and replace them after cleaning the plug well (Update: Read post #11 and #18 regarding tab removal, if present, there wasn't one on mine)
(picture of tab here, post # 17: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=46471&page=2 )
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1159.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1159.jpg)
Put plug back in, tighten it with 7mm wrench, put connector back in, turn bayonnet lock clockwise until it clicks (make sure it cliks or will come out over time)
Put tranny pan back in and make bolts tight (you cannot overtighten pan and crush the gasket because the bolts have stops on them, you'll see what I mean when you remove them)Now let's seal the base of the filler tube with silicone to prevent water from going into tranny:

Clean base of filler tube and put silicone
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1163.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1163.jpg)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1162.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1162.jpg)Now let's put everything back:

Replace crossmember (put the 2 15mm bolts first to center it)
Remove jack
Put 5.3 Qts of ATF4 slowly (double check fluid quantity for servicing) (also check how much came out to verify quantity) (4.5 Qts came out of mine, meaning it was .8 Qt low, it was leaking more and more every day at the connector)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1164.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1164.jpg)
Screw plug back in filler tube (make sure it's tight)
Start up the car, let it run for a minute, put it in D & R a few times, put it in P, and check under the car with the engine running to make sure there are no leaks (everything was ok on mine)
Hopefully you didn't forget anything and now you're done.Check again in a few days to make sure it's all good, and next time you change the oil or work under the car, double check the pan bolts to make sure they're all tight, and that nothing is leaking.

joseph
10-29-2006, 07:41 AM
I'm working on checking the tranny fluid level with the dipstick DCX use, temp/level chart and digital thermometer, I'll keep you posted.

JonzMgnm
10-29-2006, 07:46 AM
Beans to you, Joseph! Great write up.

BBMagnumRTAJ
11-08-2006, 10:42 PM
Beans to you!

But sad to see no mopar products :(...

how much did that atf+4 cost?

joseph
11-08-2006, 10:51 PM
Delete/remove thread.

Bubba's Dragon
11-09-2006, 10:32 AM
Great write up !!!!

Meister
11-26-2006, 02:22 AM
Great write up !!!!Concur. Very nice job. :thumbs_u:

Beans awarded.

Suggest you update post #1 to include the part #s for the superior Mercedes Benz O-rings, which are reported to be an effective and permanent fix.

With kudos to funky, here those are:

o-ring part numbers:

mopar# = 68001279AA
MB# = A 015 997 06 45

mopar# = 68001278AA
MB# = A 015 997 05 45

joseph
11-26-2006, 03:11 AM
Delete/remove thread.

BrilliantBlackHemi
11-26-2006, 03:56 AM
Great writeup. Beans to you. I had the dealer fix my 5.7L and it was a pain in the butt to schedule that trip. This makes it look so easy, I could of done it myself on a Sunday. Kudos.

Meister
11-26-2006, 04:09 AM
It's leaking again, very, very little, and I 'm going next week to the MB dealer to get those new, better o-rings, and it will hopefully take care of it for at least 1 year, I'll update post #1 once I know the prices.
FYI, I also got the dispstick to check the tranny fluid level, and I did a write up for the KB that is waiting to be approved, so be on the look out for "how to check your transmission fluid (NAG1)"Great, Joseph. :thumbs_u:

I, too, have one of the tranny dipsticks but have long since forgotten all the particulars of its use. Reviewing your write-up will be much easier than digging the procedure out of the service manual again.

fnkychkn
11-26-2006, 09:35 AM
It's leaking again, very, very little, and I 'm going next week to the MB dealer to get those new, better o-rings, and it will hopefully take care of it for at least 1 year, I'll update post #1 once I know the prices.
FYI, I also got the dispstick to check the tranny fluid level, and I did a write up for the KB that is waiting to be approved, so be on the look out for "how to check your transmission fluid (NAG1)"there are no "new, better o-rings". MB & mopar parts are the same. did you follow the TSB instructions (http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/LX/TSB/TSB_2100205.pdf)? specifically step #7.

fnkychkn
11-26-2006, 05:42 PM
sorry for the confusion i may have caused with my last post.

the first time i had to replace these o-rings (almost 2 years ago), we did not have them in stock and no other local dealer stocked them. since the vehicle was from out of town and the customer needed to get back on the road, we got the o-rings from the MB dealer down the street. when i replaced them, they were identical in size and composition.

i have since replaced quite a few, always using the mopar part number and they were bagged and tagged as MB parts inside a mopar bag and tag. it has been a few months since i've had to replace any so they may not be bagged and tagged the same way now.

i got the MB part numbers from chrysler dealerconnect, where some shared parts have alternate part numbers. this is one of those shared parts.

i have seen a few high milers that did not leak but i am not sure if they have been previously repaired.

joseph
11-26-2006, 06:18 PM
Delete/remove thread.

stroguy
11-26-2006, 08:56 PM
Why did they have to put a damn plug down there anyway, wasn't it obvious right from the drawing board it could be a problem.

I can comment but I've said a fill about this issue. My demand letter for repayment has been sent to DCX. If they don't pay then I go to court and let a judge hear mine and many others miseries about this tranny. There are just to many leak issues...Mags, 300's, Chargers and Jeeps. Worst part is your tranny may be leaking and you won't know it. It weeps and the fluid hangs on the bottom of the pan. Oh well. Good luck and check your tranny fluid levels regularly. Ooops, I mean have the dealer do it for you.

Randy

cadzilla74
11-27-2006, 06:10 AM
Thanks for clearing up the MB vs DCX shared part thingie on the O-Rings fnkychkn. Are the current rings identical to the ones from 2 years ago? My service guy told me they had been changed some from the originals. I was in no position to disagree, I was just glad they changed them out without fanfare on my car.

joseph
11-27-2006, 06:31 AM
Delete/remove thread.

fnkychkn
11-27-2006, 07:08 AM
Thanks for clearing up the MB vs DCX shared part thingie on the O-Rings fnkychkn. Are the current rings identical to the ones from 2 years ago? My service guy told me they had been changed some from the originals. I was in no position to disagree, I was just glad they changed them out without fanfare on my car.i never really noticed any difference. they could be different from the old ones. i just never noticed.

fnkychkn
11-27-2006, 07:10 AM
There was no tab on mine, so I didn't mention it. (even if there was, I don't see how it would change anything anyway)

the locator tab can affect the alignment of the plug and cause a leak.

joseph
11-27-2006, 07:55 PM
Delete/remove thread.

joseph
11-28-2006, 03:12 AM
Delete/remove thread.

WIMP
11-28-2006, 03:34 AM
Nice write up but I was wondering doesn't DCX charge the fuid in the torque convertor too?

joseph
11-29-2006, 06:54 AM
Delete/remove thread.

joseph
12-01-2006, 01:25 PM
Delete/remove thread.

joseph
12-12-2006, 01:13 AM
Delete/remove thread.

Meister
12-13-2006, 08:48 PM
...my level is at 70mm when hot and it's good enough, now if someone wants to have the level check at the dealer or if someone had the rings done, then you're more than welcome to get the dipstick and let the rest of us know what it reads.Joseph, I did have the dealer verify the tranny fluid level in my ride at twenty-some thousand miles, about a year ago. I'd just purchased the fluid measuring dip stick (cable) and it seemed to be telling me that my trans was over-filled.

Sure enough it had been overfilled either at the factory or during dealer prep, so they drained all the fluid while they were at it and refilled it per spec. I measured it at the time with my own tool when I got it home and I recall that it read very nearly full, so, in looking at my "tranny dip stick" today I can see that that was most likely at the 70mm point that you're seeing. The fact that the 70mm hash mark has a fluid retention hole punched or drilled right at 70mm is further indication to me that that is the desired level.

I measured mine today after two 25-minute driving sessions, both of which involved fast freeway travel as well as county roads and city surface streets. Tranny fluid temp at completion of driving was 160* f, just under mid-scale on my AutoMeter NV-series tranny temp gauge. Mine read exactly full, which is the 80mm hash mark (something less than a quarter-inch above the 70mm mark & hole).

I've added about a half-pint of additive since the tranny was serviced, and the tranny has no leaks. So my SOTP tells me that my ride would be reading @ 75mm had I not myself added some fluid.

Meaning that the "correct" setting for my car, per my dealer, would have the fluid level at 75mm with the tranny nicely warmed up (160* f). Which would likely have it right around 70mm with the tranny simply warmed up the average amount that 15 or 20 minutes of city driving would do.

All that to say it sounds to me like your present 70mm level is right where the dealer would put it as well, hence is perfect.

Looks like you've hit yet another home run. :thumbs_u:

joseph
12-13-2006, 11:51 PM
Delete/remove thread.

Meister
12-14-2006, 12:07 AM
They're also available from forum vendor Wyckoff Chrysler, but for a buck something more:

http://store.yahoo.com/wyckoff-chrys...oillechto.html

BMWDON
02-03-2007, 10:37 PM
Subscribing to this thread for future use and make it easier to find....good info!!!! :)

MrHemi2U
02-03-2007, 11:32 PM
I just had the O rings changed today ($78 thank you very much). I was with the Tech when he checked the level and he showed me the chart they use. My oil was at 130 degrees F the level should be 55mm.

joseph
02-04-2007, 12:08 AM
Delete/remove thread.

joseph
02-15-2007, 08:58 PM
Delete/remove thread.

Eric Fischer
05-03-2008, 11:26 AM
Any change you can fix the pics in the OP? The pics are no longer working.

Thanks.

MuscleMan305
01-05-2009, 10:10 PM
Any change you can fix the pics in the OP? The pics are no longer working.

Thanks.

Yea I would love to see some pics also, would make it a hell of a lot more comforting when I finally get around to doing this for the first time.

BuilderBill
01-06-2009, 12:00 AM
Yea I would love to see some pics also, would make it a hell of a lot more comforting when I finally get around to doing this for the first time.
Guys...
The latest "O" rings are BLACK.
MB only sells as an assembly now, NOT as individual "O" rings.
Bill

plcman
01-06-2009, 12:11 AM
Hey guys, did you notice that the guy that posted this is Banned!!

Nightshade
01-06-2009, 12:15 AM
Yeah.. pretty funny...

good thing he didn't change the images to something else.. should be policy to remove KB articles create by users that get banned.. or rehost the images..

Could get nasty real quick.. hotlinking can be bad news..

done
01-06-2009, 11:05 AM
Hey guys, did you notice that the guy that posted this is Banned!!

He was banned for an attitude problem, not because he was stupid.

plcman
01-06-2009, 11:51 AM
Never said he was stupid, just he was banned. Also I was just responding to the fact that they wanted the pictures back.

Peter Parker
01-06-2009, 02:07 PM
It would be helpful to others if someone updated this thread with the latest parts and pictures even though I just had the plug leak twice - covered under warranty though so I haven't personally needed it.

UnderTaker
01-20-2011, 06:07 PM
Is there a more recent thread that still has the pics?

Does the 05 RT come with synth fluid? I just got back from the store, with non-synth. ugh.

fnkychkn
01-20-2011, 09:47 PM
Is there a more recent thread that still has the pics?

Does the 05 RT come with synth fluid? I just got back from the store, with non-synth. ugh.
ATF+4 is the only recommended fluid for this transmission.

quarky42
05-05-2011, 11:09 PM
ATF+4 is the only recommended fluid for this transmission.

I've never been afraid to beat a dead horse or beat a dead thread for that matter... There are synth transmission fluids that meet or beat the ATF+4 specification.

Amsoil ATF is going into my MSRT8 which meets the requirements for ATF+4.

Sure wish there were some pics to reference, though. The service manual is a bit vague. It's odd that the service manual doesn't say anything about supporting the tranny and dropping the cross member. Hmmm.

OLJustice
12-29-2011, 12:59 PM
Ummm... Hate to keep beating a dead horse, but can anyone re-add pics to this thread? Personally I dont care if the OP was banned or not. This is good info. I'm over 100k miles and due for a transmission service and I'll be damned if I'm paying my dealer $500+ bucks for something they probably do in less than an hour.

BMWDON
12-29-2011, 05:19 PM
Drain trans fluid out trans pan (I think you'll have to drop the pan unless you have one with a drain plug already, probably not), while the pan is off, replace trans filter ($15 napa part), put trans pan back on. refill transmission with ATF+4 fluid....herein lies the problem, you need to get the transmission up to operating temp to take measurements, and without the appropriate dipstick which costs $90+, you could also use a 2' zip tie with a mark I think around 2" from the tip to determine if you're at the right fluid level. Somebody with more knowledge than me can clarify on exact distance needed to mark the zip tie. It's not hard, but potentially messy.

Tomsriv1
08-12-2012, 04:50 PM
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z3dvos70gu976gt/alu3_UbmsE/LXForums/transLeak.gif (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z3dvos70gu976gt/alu3_UbmsE/LXForums/transLeak.gif)

More pictures aren't really necessary, it is pretty straightforward and easy. I included a picture of the new part and the old part. The old part has gray o-rings. The new upgraded part should be black. I paid $10 for the part at the Dodge Dealer.

The Mercedes dealer didn't know what I was talking about and asked for a VIN. I told him it was for a Dodge and showed him my VIN of the registration "Oh, this doesn't help me" Like I said, its a Dodge. A lot of parts people have no knowledge outside the computer.

Alfa Charger
08-12-2012, 06:55 PM
I found this thread on the Jeep forum very helpful in figuring out my own means of measuring.

Poor Man's NAG1 Transmission Service/Check - JeepForum.com (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/poor-mans-nag1-transmission-service-check-1135591/)

I used a 4 ft. zip tie and a Digital Multi Meter that came with a 3 ft. long thermocoupler. I took the wire from the thermocoupler and inserted it into clear plastic tubing so it would not touch the very hot pan (Converters are right next to the pan). Like the Jeep guy my fluid temp was around 140 on an 80 degree day. Once I knew the tranny temp I inserted the zip tie till it bottomed out. Removed the tie and measured the level with a tape measure.

Very easy.

ZC3000
10-03-2012, 02:00 PM
I picked up the parts necessary from the stealership this morning.
1) Transmission pan gasket - part# 52108332AA
2) Transmission filter - part# 52108325AA
3) Transmission plug adapter - part#68021352AA

They seem to be sourced straight from Mercedes.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc227/ZCharger/20121003_120205.jpghttp://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc227/ZCharger/20121003_120124.jpghttp://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc227/ZCharger/20121003_120112.jpghttp://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc227/ZCharger/20121003_120003.jpghttp://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc227/ZCharger/20121003_120029.jpg

karnage
01-01-2015, 06:27 PM
I am reading that the 2005 magnums had an issue with water getting in the tranny via the cooling lines. Is this true. The fix is a new radiator.

fnkychkn
01-01-2015, 06:29 PM
I am reading that the 2005 magnums had an issue with water getting in the tranny via the cooling lines. Is this true. The fix is a new radiator.
Water ingestion issue was from dipstick tube seal.

karnage
01-01-2015, 06:35 PM
Cool. Seems easy enough. I read all this stuff and it scares me. Car only has 44k on the clock.

Jaamrace
01-20-2015, 04:26 PM
When you check the fluid level do you have the engine running? If so what gear do you put the trans in while checking. My older cars you had to check while idling in park.