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View Full Version : SRT8 Brembo Brake Calipers Breakdown Front and Rear



Manicmechanic
01-09-2014, 11:39 PM
The will cover what you will encounter when you tear open the SRT8 Brembo brake caliper from the front and rear of an SRT8. I recently transplanted these brakes onto my 06 Daytona and I got these pieces used and in somewhat rough shape so I decided to strip and prep them for new coats of Paint/Powder Coating and Here's what I learned. First up will be the Front Brembo Caliper:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/frontbreakdown_zpsd44c69eb.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/frontbreakdown_zpsd44c69eb.jpg.html)
Since the unit is mirrored you will see the same thing on both halves. Now lets look at some piston failure pictures that could lead to failure of the caliper itself. The coating is starting to come off these pistons and could get into the bore seizing the piston in place.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/chipped_zps11998a48.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/chipped_zps11998a48.jpg.html)
If you let your piston get to that point, your work just got tougher, if you catch it in time it's not so bad. Here are a few breakdown pics for the 44mm piston in the front calipers.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/boot1-Copy_zps830efd4a.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/boot1-Copy_zps830efd4a.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/chip2_zps438409a5.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/chip2_zps438409a5.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0450_zps6d19c41d.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0450_zps6d19c41d.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/brembohalf_zps24f09174.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/brembohalf_zps24f09174.jpg.html)
So at this point we have removed the Dust Boot, Piston and Piston Seal from the Caliper. You do not need to break the halves down to accomplish this, but I recommend you do if you plan to strip and Powder Coat you assemblies. I have seen post where people have powder coated the unit assembled only to melt seal and O-rings in the process. There are 2 O-rings on each side of the front caliper that connect the fluid path thru the center mounting housing to the inner and outer assemblies. as seen here:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMAG1264_1_zpsydni4btw.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMAG1264_1_zpsydni4btw.jpg.html)
I started stripping my calipers as a whole unit as I was using bead blast to do so, but the blasting would not cut through the outer coating without some help so Aircraft Stripper was employed for that task. The inner and outer shells seem to be powder coated and the center mounting housing does not as do the inner area of the caliper where the pistons are. This seems to be some kind of paint as it would come right off when blasted. Upon my clean up of the outer areas I broke the units down by removing the E-18 External Star Bolts from the units,(these are not removed to perform a basic brake job) and finished cleaning up the painted areas. Be advised that you do not want to remove any of the coatings in the piston bores, for this area I just did the best I could and using the old seals as masking repainted the area W/ Dupli-Color engine ceramic paint with a slight heating in the oven @ 175* for about 15-20 min.
Now for the Rear Calipers, these are held together with 4 Metric SHCS that require @ #6 Metric Hex Key Wrench to remove, be advised these and the front E-18 Stars are TIGHT and require a good way to clamp the Calipers down or these need to be loosened while they are still on the car. Here is the Rear Caliper Breakdown Picture:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/rearhalves3_zpsef63082c.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/rearhalves3_zpsef63082c.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/Rearhalves1_zpsc963d2c0.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/Rearhalves1_zpsc963d2c0.jpg.html)
Notice there are two different size pistons in the rear units and they are also mirrored in each halve. 32mm pistons (Centric P/N 146.32009) and 28mm pistons (Centric P/N 146.28001) make up the rear caliper. There are no internal seals other than the Dust Seal and Bore Seals in the rear units. The fluid is moved between the two halves by the metal tubing on one end of the unit. Once again these needed Aircraft Stripper to remove the powder coating from the housing. Here are a few pics of the process.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMAG1235_zps1slysdhk.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMAG1235_zps1slysdhk.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/rearpistons_zps697ee1f0.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/rearpistons_zps697ee1f0.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/sealremoveal_zps7ea5ca4a.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/sealremoveal_zps7ea5ca4a.jpg.html)
Now it has been said that the Only one set of Pistons in the Front should corrode and fail but in my case the inner and outer pistons were failing, and no (to my knowledge) reports have been made of the rear units failing but as you can see in this pic it is starting on these pistons:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/rearpistontop_zpsf17ca629.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/rearpistontop_zpsf17ca629.jpg.html)
Here are a few shots of the process of applying paint to the non-coated areas of the calipers.
Fronts/Rears
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0505_zps466a9cd0.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0505_zps466a9cd0.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0503_zpsa633be2a.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0503_zpsa633be2a.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0497_zps3c23754b.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0497_zps3c23754b.jpg.html)
I also ordered new Brembo stickers for the Calipers and I measured out the Factory Sticker before I stripped it down and sent that into Reflective Concepts for some reflective silver stickers. Here is a measurement drawing if you want to get your someplace else. I had ordered some off eBay last summer but they turned out to be wrong in size. The same sticker goes on the front/rear.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/brembo2_zpsdb040e03.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/brembo2_zpsdb040e03.jpg.html)

Manicmechanic
01-18-2014, 10:42 PM
Ok so I got all my parts in, and we will discuss that a little bit. First off I replaced all my pistons in the front and rear calipers as you could see there were some signs of damage to most of them so I didn't want to do this work again anytime soon so I spent a little extra now and these should be good for a long time since I know what to watch for when I inspect my brakes from now on. Now the replacement parts, Ordered rear pistons from Centric P/N's 146.28001 28mm and 146.32009 32mm, these are the P/N's I found on the net from various sources. The 28mm are silver in color and the 32mm are black? I am not sure why or if it is related to the P/N or not. I also ordered the Bore Seals and Dust Seals from Centric, I will not give these numbers out since they are junk to me.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0511_zpsef9f9491.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0511_zpsef9f9491.jpg.html)

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0510_zps1fca530c.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0510_zps1fca530c.jpg.html)

Using the Wilwood Brake assembly lubricant (not as messy as Brake Fluid) I began to assemble the rear calipers, lubricating the bores, seals and pistons and putting the dust boot on the pistons I installed the pistons in their bores. On the larger 32mm pistons I didn't have any trouble at first, but the 28mm were a different story with the first Dust Boot tearing on install. Seems these boots are made from a really light weight material and are not nearly as thick as the stock Brembo boots.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0522_zpse81a02a9.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0522_zpse81a02a9.jpg.html)



I had urged that you keep your parts as you took them apart in case you had any issues upon reassembly and here was the first one. No problem I thought I will install one old boot, then the next 28mm boot failed on install. First it would not stay in place around the bore, it kept popping up off of it, then I noticed a black spec on it that turned out to be a hole. Then I noticed the 32mm seal was also coming off the bore it was on, so I searched the part numbers that were on the original boots and came across several forum posts on where to source these units. I was able to get them ordered and they will be in next week, I also ordered the Brembo one's for the front 44mm pistons as well. They are a little pricey at $9.00 each but after dealing with the centric ones I am sure that it will be worth it. I will post the final product when I get the paint work finished.
P/N's for the factory Brembo boots are:
20487240 For the 28mm
20487242 For the 32mm
20487248 For the 44mm on the fronts.
I got mine from RoadRaceStore.com

Manicmechanic
01-22-2014, 03:33 PM
Don't forget to remove and clean these as well, the bleeder valves. I almost let these get by because they looked okay on the outside since I had blasted them but on the inside they can be starting to rust from any trace of water that can get into the system. Here are just two of the 6 total from the front/rear assemblies, one looks okay but the other had started to rust. Back in the day this was a leading cause of having to replace a wheel cylinder or caliper.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMAG1313_zpsrgbgxwoj.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMAG1313_zpsrgbgxwoj.jpg.html)

Manicmechanic
01-24-2014, 08:49 PM
Well all the correct parts are in and assembly can begin, my units are still in halves which makes assembly easier but they don't need to be broken down this far unless you are powder coating the parts, even then you don't have to break the rears at all for powder coat just remove the pistons, seals and boots to prevent them from melting. A little time with a wire wheel on my bench grinder got my bleeder screws back into shape:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0528_zps3fd455b2.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0528_zps3fd455b2.jpg.html)
A lot better looking now! The seals I mentioned came in from RoadRaceStore.com and look and feel a lot better than the Centric parts I had purchased. I was following an older posting of how to repair the front pistons and used the recommended parts in that post and these parts probably were not available at that time or were too expensive, but these seals are available now:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0523_zpseb2242e4.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0523_zpseb2242e4.jpg.html)
I cleaned out the bores and using the Wilwood assembly lube coated them and the bore seals as well as the pistons before I put them into place. I installed the dust boots to the pistons before assembly and then pushed the pistons down the bore into place. You will notice I left the pistons out of the bores somewhat at this point I am going to try something as far as bleeding goes and see how it works out and then I will report on it:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0531_zpsd4649dd3.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0531_zpsd4649dd3.jpg.html)
Once I got all the rear pistons in place I used a 30mm socket and a 32mm socket to help push the boots into place around the bores, on the front 44mm pistons I used a cap from a can of Nite Shades to accomplish this as I didn't have a socket big enough but just look around your work area to find something that will help push the boots down evenly. The rear boots sit flush while the front boots stick up just a little. I then assembled the rear halves together and I applied some Aluminum Anti-Seize to the bolts that hold them together:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0535_zps799a1f13.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0535_zps799a1f13.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0541_zps4509dfcb.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0541_zps4509dfcb.jpg.html)
Since these are socket heads and I don't have a 6mm socket I tightened them down real good but couldn't apply a torque wrench to them. On the front assemblies I did use a torque wrench set to 110 Ft Lbs. hopefully tomorrow I can get them coated with the paint match (TorRed) G2 paint and then apply the decals and install them and bleed them.

Manicmechanic
02-05-2014, 06:40 PM
Okay the paint work is all completed, as well as the new reflective Brembo decals. Time to get ready to install them back on the car. Here are a few things I learned doing this job, first I was unaware that there was an issue with the front pistons on these calipers until I had already started the work at hand. Had I not had any issues removing the original coating from the calipers I would have not looked at the pistons as closely as I did after finding posts about that issue. While those issues looked to come about at anytime on some owners brakes these units were 6 years old when I got them from a salvaged car and that says a lot right there for a 6 year old car to be in a salvage situation with no real body damage, and the fact it had been wrecked and repaired @ one time. There are no reports as of yet of any rear piston failures, there was some issues with mine starting to as well so I have spent a little more than I planned with replacing everything I needed but now I am good to go for a long time. Here are a few shots of them:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0553_zps73bbf2c9.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0553_zps73bbf2c9.jpg.html)
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0555_zps14856cbc.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0555_zps14856cbc.jpg.html)

This last shot shows just a little bit of the reflectiveness of the Brembo stickers I installed:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0549_zps9c9b37c2.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0549_zps9c9b37c2.jpg.html)
While I opted to paint mine with caliper coating from G2, you can do whatever you want to get the same or better results. I am surprised that no one has polished them out to a high luster and clear coated them, bottom line there is a lot of ways you can go with your units once you get to the point of needing to go through them as I have but be prepared to have some issues of your own once you start to work on these. My original intent was 3 days to strip and paint mine and that went south when I had trouble removing the original coating and then discovering the other issues and having to source parts and wait for them to come in and here I am some 2.5 months later, while I am not driving the car at the time it isn't something I would have wanted to come across on a daily driver . Bottom line inspect your units before you attempt to remove them for a quick clean up and recoating process so you can be preparred. Take your time and if you can take pictures before you start and along the way to help you keep things correctly in order. Decals install for Driver side and Passenger side differently as well as installation of bleeders and crossovers on the rear units.

Manicmechanic
02-21-2014, 11:05 PM
Installed, I was going to try to fill the outboard rear caliper with fluid and the push the pistons in to move the fluid and air to the inboard side and out the brake line hole but I passed on trying that and will just bleed them normally to keep the mess down.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0564_zps80da97e5.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0564_zps80da97e5.jpg.html)

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0557_zpsa43dbda6.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0557_zpsa43dbda6.jpg.html)

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b606/Ray_Kristi/IMG_0576_zps9ce1555b.jpg (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Ray_Kristi/media/IMG_0576_zps9ce1555b.jpg.html)

Manicmechanic
01-30-2016, 10:05 AM
Asked to price a rebuild of 2006 Brembo's and have discovered that you can now get them at Rock Auto or O'reillys in a remaned unit that is unpainted and cheaper than rebuilding your own calipers given the time involved and the possible time without a car. You could get a set of these and take the time to paint them however you wanted then swap them out with your current ones and return those for the core charger. RA offers the better price but you need to factor in shipping cost, there and back.