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Hemi Family
12-27-2009, 09:13 PM
I completed my install and put in some time on them on the road and at the track...here are my experiences and thoughts with some ride height adjustment info. (this thread is work in progress, I'll update as time allows)

In this thread I will concentrate on the front and rear installation, extender installation and ride height settings for my car and my thoughts of the performance and ride. If you tackle this install on your own I think you will find these settings very useful in helping achieve the desired ride height for your ride without multiple adjustment sessions. Additional information is available in this thread (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=194631) by RobsSXT and is covered very well for an AWD application, but the information and installation methods are worth the read. The front struts and ride height information will vary accordingly.



Product;
21103
These things are absolute eye candy, too bad you can't see them after installation. The all black look with brass fittings really does have a classy look compared to the typical flash of after market red. To each his own, I like the Black as is obvious from our car selection. My chosen purpose for these coilovers is primarily track use so I chose stiffer springs for my application - 14k/16k. I also requested the optional extenders since I have already installed sub-woofers which would have been in the way for a typical quick adjustment.

Pre-Install;
Start by adjusting all your spring preloads and shock lengths according to your ride height requirements. Keep in mind that your spring sizing (14k in this installation) will vary how much your suspension compresses. Using my settings with lighter springs will net you a lower final stance.
Front;
Preload = 0
Mount to spring perch = 8" (this could vary based upon spring length)
Mount to lower strut base = 15-1/8"
21105
Rear;
Spring perch to end of threads = 1-1/8"
Edit: With springs removed install rear shock and compress suspension fully. Check for contact of rear axle to cradle, adjust shock length to prevent contact of axle. Leave at leat 1/4" to 1/2" to prevent contact under heavy load compression.
21104

With these settings I achieved a 1-1/8" drop all the way around when measuring from the ground to top of fender. Starting ride height was 29-5/8" front, 29-7/8" rear, final ride height 28-1/2" front, 28-3/4" rear. These measurements are taken using a staggered Goodyear F1 245/45/20 front 255/45/20 rear. The numbers I was aiming for were published in this thread (http://forums.peddersusa.com/showthread.php?t=655) by Pedders. Since they have the only testing I'm aware of on the LX platform aimed at performance. Something to be aware of, your numbers from ground to fender will vary based upon the tires. The best meaurement is taken from spindle center or bottom edge of rim to bottom of fender.

When measuring from the fender to bottom lip of rim here were my target numbers;
Front = 667mm (26-1/4")
Rear = 660mm (26")
I ended at 1/8" less than the target numbers...

UPDATE: I have lowered another 1/4" in the rear and 3/8" up front when I changed the front springs to 12k. The rear end had sagged 1/4" from the initial install and changing to lighter springs up front naturally lowered the front 1/8", I took the mount to spring base dimension to 14-7/8" for an overall 3/8" drop in the front.

Here is some more good information on ride height stock vs. post install, all dimensions are from fender to spindle center;

STOCK SUSPENSION:
On Ground Rear= 16-1/4"
Off Ground Rear= 20-1/2"
On Ground Front= 16-1/4"
Off Ground Front= 21"

BCRacing Coilovers
On Ground Rear= 15-1/8"
Off Ground Rear= 19"
On Ground Front= 15-1/8"
Off Ground Front= 18""

Hemi Family
12-27-2009, 09:14 PM
Installation Rear Spring and Shocks;
First off, there are many ways to accomplish the spring and shock removal. One is to remove the single bolt attaching the lower rocker arm as adequately shown and described in the thread (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=194631) by RobsSXT. Many people including myself have had troubles realigning the lower arm once the spring is reinstalled. For this reason I am including an alternate method of spring and shock removal...drop the rear cradle. If you are doing sway bars at the same time this is manditory and is the only way to remove/install the rear sway bar.

First start by raising the rear of the car onto jack stands, remove wheels from both sides. Locate and remove the 10mm bolt holding the brake line bracket on both sides of the car.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/Brakelinemount.jpg


Next remove lower shock 18mm nut/16mm bolt on both sides, break the upper 15mm bolts loose but do not remove yet.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/DSC01645.jpg

Next locate and remove the exhaust mounting bolts (4) total, (2) 10mm and (2) 13mm at the rear of the car. You should also remove the rubber mounts holding the exhaust forward of the rearend, these are flexible and will allow for the movement nescessary for the drop but it is recommended to remove them for better clearance, especially if you are doing the sway bars too. Then place a floor jack on the center of your rearend.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/DSC01659.jpg

Locate and remove the (4) cradle bolts, (2) each side and slowly lower the rear cradle. Stop to check both sides periodically to be sure there is nothing caught or binding. You will need 3" - 5" total to remove the springs and shock.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/Cradlearmfront.jpg
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/Cradlearmrear.jpg

Now remove the upper shock bolts and remove shock;
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/Removerearshock.jpg

Next remove the rear springs;
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/RemoveSpring-1.jpg

Remove the upper rubber spring seat, leave the lower one in place. Apply lube to the lower seat prior to installing your new springs.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/Springremoved-1.jpg

Now reverse the order for installation of springs and shock. Be sure you have made the height adjustments and locked the collars in place. Refer to the next post for the installation of extenders if used...if not refer to this post (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=2636751&postcount=4) for access hole.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/DSC01652.jpg

Hemi Family
12-27-2009, 09:15 PM
Installation Rear Extenders;
Extenders - First I drilled a 3/8" pilot hole through the insulation, plastic interior fender cover and into the sub-woofer box. Then I continued with a long 5/16" drill bit to make the final hole at the top of the sub-box. Post drilling, attach the extender to the adjustment knob and feed the cable through the extender housing. In the next pic I show how I kept the housing stationary as I fed the cable through.
21120
Once the shock top is boted into place the cable should protrude through the housing. Attach adjuster knob and installation is complete.
21121
Here is the finished product. I had planned on shortening the extender cable and housing, after further review the cable is compressed (squared) at the end for the adjuster knob attachment. I felt the additional fabrication time was not worth the effort and could lead to failure of the adjuster knob engagement.
21122

Hemi Family
12-27-2009, 09:16 PM
Installation Front Struts;
The front struts are the easiest part of the install and easiest to adjust. Again be sure you have made all the height and spring adjustments prior to installation. I made my own strut compressor with a simple tie down strap shown here after the shock was removed. An alternate to this method is described is this thread (http://forums.peddersusa.com/showthread.php?t=868) and agian here (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=72444) in the KB by disconnecting the upper ball joint. The .pdf directions provided by the previous thread are complete enough for the entire installation and vary only in methodology. This is the primary reason for my thread here, to offer alternate methods.

Assuming you have raised the car and removed your wheels, start by loosening the sway bar link and lower strut bolt. Leave the strut bolt in place and disconnect the sway bar link.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/FrontStrutlowerbolts.jpg

Begin compressing your suspension with a floor jack until the strut link or lower strut bolt becomes loose, both should be loose if both wheels are raised. Continue to compress your suspension until just before all the corner's wheel weight is supported by the jack. Using a stap as I have secure the strut in the compressed position.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/Coilover%20Install/DSC01729.jpg

Then continue by removing the three nuts at the top of your strut. Then slowly lower your jack while holding onto your strut. Remove the lower strut bolt and remove entire strut to the rear and install your new strut (after spring and height adjustments).
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/DSC01685.jpg
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/DSC01686.jpg
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu333/Michaelfine/DSC01727.jpg

Put your car back on the ground and check all four corners. A quick drive down the block will help all four corners to settle a bit, so your final numbers should be lower than when it first comes off the jack. Take this time to listen for any rattles or loose parts before you take it out for the real test drive. Start with the dampening at full negative or '0' setting and adjust them out from there. You'll begin to feel the difference and find the ride you like best.

Hemi Family
12-27-2009, 09:55 PM
Review and comments;
First off, the instructions that come with the struts and shocks leave little to be desired. Read the information found on the forum for better guidance, reading the supplied information will only leave you saying, huh?

As stated early on, my intent for these shocks and struts was track performance so I chose a much stiffer setup than most would desire. This said, the recommendation of Circuit Motorsports was 14k/16k springs over the more common 12k/14k track setup. Being a believer in spring as the primary support when corner loading (compression only slows the reaction, spring supports) I chose this recommendation. Once the parts arrived and installation had begun I found that I had received a 14k/14k setup??? On a Saturday morning I called Tristan at Circuit Motorsports to confirm my findings. He in turned called the owner of BCR on his cell for the answer. After their conversation Tristan called me back right away…it turns out that BCR has concerns about using the adjustable spring perch with springs as strong as the 16k setup. BCR also felt that the 14k/14k setup would still be valid for this car, so with reservations I continued my installation.

Once completed, I took the car on several test runs in my country road backyard. I started with the adjustment to full negative or “0” setting. The car was running my complete track setup with aggressive ST-43 brake pads, Pirelli PZero tires and newly installed suspension (including newly installed Hotchkis Sways). I spent most of the time bedding the brakes and listening for loose parts. On country roads at a brisk pace the car seemed flawless and even a little intimidating on how well it reacted to steering input.

The next day I switched back to stock brake pads and took her out for some real world driving. The car was very stiff but not as bad as I expected. It was a very tight ride but still absorbed bumps and road dips. Once on the highway I realized the shocks were not dampened enough as the ride had a springy feeling. First I started with 10 clicks out, while better I still prefer a more dampened ride. Next I went to 15 clicks and stayed there for the rest of the drive.

Next I headed to Laguna Seca for some track testing on the new setup. The ride to the track was good with a loaded rear and two passengers, no negative traits and within reasonable expectations for a comfortable 3 hour ride. Once the car hit the track I turned the dampening up to 20 clicks and stayed there for the day. While the heavier sways contributed to the flat cornering the springs definitely reduced brake dive and gave the tires increased bite.

Next due to the spring weight confusion I will be trying out a 12k spring in the front to see how much of a difference this makes on my setup…stay tuned for an update into the new year.

UPDATE: 12k spring have been installed in the front, the ride is slightly less harsh and probably more livable than the 14k. I did run Willow Springs Raceway and the performance was certainly still adequate with no noticable effects on handling. Since I didn't test both on the same track it is really hard to do a direct comparison but, based upon feel I would recommend the 12k/14k combination for track and road use. If you do not intend to track your car I wouldn't recommend going this stiff for daily driving.

So far I’d give the BCR Coilovers a thumbs up for looks, thumbs up for adjustability, thumbs up for performance, thumbs down for installation instructions. I really like that the adjuster controls compression as well as rebound. The service at Circuit Motorsports has been second to none and from what I’ve heard BCR is on par as well.

Here is the starting ride height;
21115
Here is the final ride height;
21116
Not a huge difference but enough to tighten up the track performance of the car. You can see the biggest difference in the body line behind the rear tire.

420SRT8
12-27-2009, 10:23 PM
Damm, that looks good!

Hemi Family
12-27-2009, 10:30 PM
Reserved;

OK, I think I'm done...man the install was easier than posting this thread. Wrentching is by far less fustrating than waiting for uploads and downloads!

Hemi Family
12-27-2009, 11:40 PM
Damm, that looks good!

Thanks, still working on the finishing touches!

NYC_SRT8
12-27-2009, 11:56 PM
Nice wite up...

Subscribing.

srt8-in-largo
12-28-2009, 04:45 AM
Coolness, how's the ride?

Gotta love that rear adjuster.

EDIT: And yeah, looks tons better!

Hemi Family
12-28-2009, 10:42 PM
Coolness, how's the ride?

Gotta love that rear adjuster.

EDIT: And yeah, looks tons better!


The ride is firm! Although not as stiff as I expected from the 14k/14k spring combination. I'll be trying out some 12k for the front next week. I'll update once I have an opportunity to review. I'm shooting for some track time later in January to evaluate the 12k vs 14k front spring.

I started out lower and it looked awesome, but performance was my goal and suspension travel is critical for proper tracking.

srt8-in-largo
12-28-2009, 11:55 PM
Sounds like a pretty positive experience.

I'm pretty sure I have no idea what this 12k stuff is about; that something like spring rate?

One more thing, you buy those F1's on purpose? :mrgreen: What's your experience with those on the track?

rsmeanie
12-29-2009, 12:06 AM
Great writeup!! I just installed my BCR coilovers yesterday as well. It sure would have been nice to have this writeup ahead of time!! I have some height adjustments to make but I'm pretty happy with mine too.

NYC_SRT8
12-29-2009, 12:16 AM
Sounds like a pretty positive experience.

I'm pretty sure I have no idea what this 12k stuff is about; that something like spring rate?

One more thing, you buy those F1's on purpose? :mrgreen: What's your experience with those on the track?

12kg/mm = 674lbs/in(pounds per square inch)

14kg/mm = 787lbs/in

Hemi Family
12-29-2009, 12:25 AM
Sounds like a pretty positive experience.

I'm pretty sure I have no idea what this 12k stuff is about; that something like spring rate?

One more thing, you buy those F1's on purpose? :mrgreen: What's your experience with those on the track?

Yeah, spring rates...as so well described by NYC_SRT8.

I picked up the F1's along with a new set of SRT rims on Ebay, great deal I couldn't pass it up. I used the F1's at Infineon, while the grip was adequate they did wander a bit. I switched to 255/40/20 Pirelli PZero's for Laguna, they were far more predictable. The GY are quieter and more comfortable than the PZero's for daily driving. The only other tires I've run are the RSA's, while slightly quieter they did not offer the grip of the F1's.

srt8-in-largo
12-29-2009, 12:32 AM
We need to get on the metric system... seriously. Thanks for the explo tho.

GY's don't get much love. I'm not a fan but I don't track with them either. I hate 'em on the street and was just wondering about people's track experience.

EDIT: I should SAY ride is a little stiffer. Stock front rates are only about 200 lb/in!

CircuitMotorsports
12-30-2009, 03:39 PM
Hey AWESOME write-up , very detailed.

Car looks great BTW, perfect drop. I am glad you are liking the setup so much and that they are performing well for you.

:thumbs_u:

Simans82
12-30-2009, 03:43 PM
Lookin' good!

SMosher
12-30-2009, 03:46 PM
Great writeup!! I just installed my BCR coilovers yesterday as well. It sure would have been nice to have this writeup ahead of time!! I have some height adjustments to make but I'm pretty happy with mine too.

You did!? :)

Halif-LX
01-01-2010, 12:55 AM
My BC'S are in transit. I appreciate your efforts posting this topic.
Timely indeed.

Hemi Family
01-01-2010, 02:18 AM
My BC'S are in transit. I appreciate your efforts posting this topic.
Timely indeed.

Check back when you get them, I plan on adding a few details next week. Pretty straight forward install but the readjustments can be a pain, the pre-adjustment settings are probably the biggest help you'll get from all of this.

CircuitMotorsports
01-01-2010, 01:02 PM
Defintiely the longest amount of time is getting your intital ride height settings where you want them. Once that's done it's cake from there. The damper settings can be fine tuned with just a trun of the knobs on top.

SMosher
01-01-2010, 09:34 PM
Defintiely the longest amount of time is getting your intital ride height settings where you want them. Once that's done it's cake from there. The damper settings can be fine tuned with just a trun of the knobs on top.

Very true. With all the cars we did swaps like this we have learned where the height is before they hit the car. Makes for about an hour and a half for a complete install.

srt8-in-largo
01-02-2010, 12:15 AM
I don't mind the ride or performance of the stock setup but man am I tired of looking at my fender gap.

Hemi Family
01-02-2010, 12:45 AM
I don't mind the ride or performance of the stock setup but man am I tired of looking at my fender gap.

Ironically when I first bought the SRT I felt it was stiffer than I was looking for. But once I got used to it, it seemed normal. Now it is at a whole different level of firm and I'm getting used to it. But it is nescessary for my current goals for the car.

You can go with lighter spring weights to keep the stock ride and get the drop your looking for with these and you'll gain more ride adjustability as well.

rsmeanie
01-02-2010, 01:28 AM
You did!? :)

Hey! I helped! :thumbs_u:

Meech
01-03-2010, 10:48 AM
Great Write-up. My car will get done in the spring, no pun intended! Beans and subscribed!

Grimlock
01-03-2010, 07:07 PM
I don't see it posted in the thread, so I figured I'd mention that these are identical to the Pedders Xa coil-overs. Clearly they are the same product with possibly different spring rates and black paint.

CircuitMotorsports
01-04-2010, 03:58 PM
Similar but different ;)

The BCR coilovers have a few different design features, and a lower locking ring, a few thigns that are nicer to have. And the prices are significantly different as well, with the BCR's coming in for less:)

MattRobertson
01-04-2010, 04:40 PM
Great thread. Moving to Knowledge Base...

http://foohbar.com/ul/modhat.gif

Hemi Family
01-08-2010, 11:36 PM
I don't see it posted in the thread, so I figured I'd mention that these are identical to the Pedders Xa coil-overs. Clearly they are the same product with possibly different spring rates and black paint.

Ahhh, you've discovered the reason I chose the BCR's...but, that said with all the other changes I've made the Pedders Track II kit would have been more cost effective. But, the combination of Pedders bushings, BCR Coilovers and Hoschkis sways is still a lethal combination!

RobsSXT
01-09-2010, 01:29 AM
Wow, incredible write up!! Good job on that. I am really happy with my BCR's. My ride quality is incredible (I'm not a track guy with my 3.5 AWD) and I'm so stoked they gave us AWD guys the chance to have a great suspension kit. When I am at my low, I set my fronts at 15 and max soft in the rear. While I'm not as performance oriented as some of you guys, I do demand a nice stance on my AWD.

Anyhow, great write up.

Halif-LX
01-29-2010, 10:54 AM
Would the measurements posted pre and post install, be the same for my '06 300 C SRT8?

To my eyes the ride height you have manages to attain on your magnum, is pretty much where I might like to be with my 300C. That being said I have to communicate that to my Tech with numbers he can relate to, along with pictures.

Thnx
R

Hemi Family
01-29-2010, 11:18 PM
Would the measurements posted pre and post install, be the same for my '06 300 C SRT8?

To my eyes the ride height you have manages to attain on your magnum, is pretty much where I might like to be with my 300C. That being said I have to communicate that to my Tech with numbers he can relate to, along with pictures.

Thnx
R

Should be relatively the same, start with your pre-install measurements if there is any difference from my numbers use that as a base line and deduct/add from there. Keep in mind spring rates, if you are using a lighter spring rate you'll want to adjust the pre-install length of the shock (longer) accordingly.

My wife has a 300C SRTDesign, the ride height of her car was higher than the Magnum SRT8 but the measurement from floor to fender was the same 1/4" variance front to back. Also, as a point of reference the final numbers I used were from a Pedderized Track II 300C as measured from bottom lip of rim to fender;
Front = 667mm (26-1/4")
Rear = 660mm (26")

Have fun!

SoCalSRT300
01-31-2010, 07:23 PM
nice write-up!

flpaul
01-31-2010, 08:05 PM
i have the same ones but mine make alot of noise in the rear

i have redone the pre load a few time and cant get it better

Hemi Family
02-01-2010, 02:05 PM
i have the same ones but mine make alot of noise in the rear

i have redone the pre load a few time and cant get it better

Did you lube the spring seats and perch grommets? There has been talk of noise in colder climates (35 and below) but I haven't heard of anyone else having any issues.

Halif-LX
02-02-2010, 02:52 PM
Hemi Family... What is the lube of choice for spring seats and perches?

RobsSXT
02-02-2010, 11:25 PM
I complained of some noise also. BCR send me a revised rear perch with a different urethane and I haven't heard it squeak yet.

Sevenernine
02-03-2010, 12:09 AM
Yep. Sent me replacement too. Havent had a chance to swap it out yet.

Gonna do it when I have my car on stands doing headers.

Posted via LXFMobile

Hemi Family
02-03-2010, 12:53 AM
Hemi Family... What is the lube of choice for spring seats and perches?

I used the left over poly lube supplied by Hotchkis, any poly lube or water resistant silicone based grease should do the trick.

Here is a link to one option http://www.hotchkis.net/14_oz_super_grease.html

NYC_SRT8
02-03-2010, 09:30 AM
I used the left over poly lube supplied by Hotchkis, any poly lube or water resistant silicone based grease should do the trick.

Here is a link to one option http://www.hotchkis.net/14_oz_super_grease.html

If that's the case use Marine Grade Bearing Lube. Thats the stuff they put on boats and boat trailers that sit in salt water. The stuff Hotchkis sells is garbage, I know 1st hand.

rance
02-03-2010, 02:45 PM
Excellent writeup. Thanks for all the time and effort to help the rest of us out. Cool idea for the spring compressor. What did you do for the new (BCR) strut?

Hemi Family
02-24-2010, 01:01 AM
Excellent writeup. Thanks for all the time and effort to help the rest of us out. Cool idea for the spring compressor. What did you do for the new (BCR) strut?

It is shorter than the stock so it slides right in...

Hemi Family
02-24-2010, 01:20 AM
Post #1 & #5 updated...

Ev0lv3
03-12-2010, 10:32 PM
K, I believe I understand pre-load on the front.

However, I'm not to sure about the back. Is it the shock that you adjust pre-load with? Is that why its adjustable?

Hemi Family
03-12-2010, 11:55 PM
K, I believe I understand pre-load on the front.

However, I'm not to sure about the back. Is it the shock that you adjust pre-load with? Is that why its adjustable?

That one had me too, I hear a lot about rear pre-load...basically shock length and final shock travel are the key elements, make sure both sides are the same length. Follow the...ummm, wait a minute...I didn't give you the rear shock length. Stay tuned, I'll check my notes and update the thread...

Ev0lv3
03-13-2010, 12:04 AM
So when you throw the suspension back together, you install the shock. Have the shock touch the mount at the top without any force on it? That would be Zero load? And if you put load on it you're "pre-loading" it, correct?

Ev0lv3
03-19-2010, 12:03 PM
bump! :)

Hemi Family
03-19-2010, 05:24 PM
So when you throw the suspension back together, you install the shock. Have the shock touch the mount at the top without any force on it? That would be Zero load? And if you put load on it you're "pre-loading" it, correct?

For the front the answer is yes, but it pertains to the spring tention prior to install. Be sure both sides are the same, measure from top of spring to bottom spring perch. Each spring should rotate when given a firm twist for '0' preload.

The rear shocks do not really have a "preload". They are gas charged though so make sure they are the same length on each side otherwise you may get a slightly higher ride hieght from one side to the other. Also make sure you have enough remaining shock travel for full compression of the suspension.

argentmag
05-05-2010, 11:04 AM
I'm attempting to do the install - but can't see how to get to the 8" measurement for the fronts. I'm at 9"and the unit spins when I use the included wrench to tighten the spring. How did you do it?
Thanks

well, I guess I'll just stay at 8 something...

06BlackR/T
05-05-2010, 10:00 PM
I'm attempting to do the install - but can't see how to get to the 8" measurement for the fronts. I'm at 9"and the unit spins when I use the included wrench to tighten the spring. How did you do it?
Thanks

well, I guess I'll just stay at 8 something...
Do you have RWD or AWD as they are different. Also the OP ordered his with different spring rates which could effect the length. I believe mine were longer than 8" from spring perch to the top but don't have a measurement for you to compare.

argentmag
05-06-2010, 10:02 AM
rear wheel drive - and I agree, I'm staying at 8 something for now. I'm having a hard time compressing the front strut enough to clear to pull the bottom out. '09 chally srt by the way.
Thank you

MORGAN82
05-06-2010, 10:06 AM
looks good it has a nice stance to it

Hemi Family
05-06-2010, 01:33 PM
I'm attempting to do the install - but can't see how to get to the 8" measurement for the fronts. I'm at 9"and the unit spins when I use the included wrench to tighten the spring. How did you do it?
Thanks

well, I guess I'll just stay at 8 something...

Measure your springs without any preload, this will be the dimension you are shooting for when you snug up the collars. I have 12k and 14k springs and both are different length.

argentmag
05-06-2010, 04:42 PM
I'm ok on the spring, now I'm struggling to remove the strut.

Hemi Family
05-06-2010, 05:58 PM
I'm ok on the spring, now I'm struggling to remove the strut.


Try removing the upper ball joint if you are having difficulty keeping the strut compressed as discribed in this thread http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=72444

argentmag
05-07-2010, 12:35 PM
still trying your way, but on the challenger srt, you've REALLY got to compress the strut!

argentmag
05-07-2010, 04:41 PM
ok, I went looking for a puller and ended up with a pickle fork. worked pretty good, just have to be careful what you hit! 2 days for the first strut, 10 min for the second.
How do I tighten those upper ball joints/a arms?

argentmag
05-11-2010, 09:51 AM
Thanks to Hemi Family's write up and '06 blk r/t, I finished the install. For me, the rears were easier than the fronts. Could be inexperience on my part. I'm a first timer. Once I decided to open the upper ball joints, I was able to wrangle the struts out. I did the rear just like HF said lowering the exhaust and cradle. I had to pay close attention to the pictures because I didn't even know what the cradle was!, but that gave me plenty room - one spring just fell out on it's own.Anyone else do the install on an '09 chally srt? I also installed the extenders for easy adjusts, and that was alittle tricky finding the spot to cut. Those plastic buttons holding the mat in are like steel! Anyway I'm doing the easy test ride today. I don't have any track plans other than the srt track experience, I just love a high performance car.
If the car doesn't fall apart when I drive down the street, I'll be pretty psyched to have done it myself.
Thanks again, couldn't/Wouldn't have done it without this thread!!

Hemi Family
05-11-2010, 01:28 PM
Congrats, how about some pics?


Thanks to Hemi Family's write up and '06 blk r/t, I finished the install. For me, the rears were easier than the fronts. Could be inexperience on my part. I'm a first timer. Once I decided to open the upper ball joints, I was able to wrangle the struts out. I did the rear just like HF said lowering the exhaust and cradle. I had to pay close attention to the pictures because I didn't even know what the cradle was!, but that gave me plenty room - one spring just fell out on it's own.Anyone else do the install on an '09 chally srt? I also installed the extenders for easy adjusts, and that was alittle tricky finding the spot to cut. Those plastic buttons holding the mat in are like steel! Anyway I'm doing the easy test ride today. I don't have any track plans other than the srt track experience, I just love a high performance car.
If the car doesn't fall apart when I drive down the street, I'll be pretty psyched to have done it myself.
Thanks again, couldn't/Wouldn't have done it without this thread!!

06BlackR/T
05-11-2010, 01:31 PM
Thanks to Hemi Family's write up and '06 blk r/t, I finished the install. For me, the rears were easier than the fronts. Could be inexperience on my part. I'm a first timer. Once I decided to open the upper ball joints, I was able to wrangle the struts out. I did the rear just like HF said lowering the exhaust and cradle. I had to pay close attention to the pictures because I didn't even know what the cradle was!, but that gave me plenty room - one spring just fell out on it's own.Anyone else do the install on an '09 chally srt? I also installed the extenders for easy adjusts, and that was alittle tricky finding the spot to cut. Those plastic buttons holding the mat in are like steel! Anyway I'm doing the easy test ride today. I don't have any track plans other than the srt track experience, I just love a high performance car.
If the car doesn't fall apart when I drive down the street, I'll be pretty psyched to have done it myself.
Thanks again, couldn't/Wouldn't have done it without this thread!!
Glad you got everything working, +1 on the pics!

argentmag
05-13-2010, 06:31 PM
Ok will do

argentmag
05-29-2010, 03:21 PM
Some pics
Before BC suspension
After BC suspension
Painted wheels

Hemi Family
05-30-2010, 09:36 AM
Some pics
Before BC suspension
After BC suspension
Painted wheels

The wheels and stance look great!

argentmag
05-30-2010, 06:04 PM
thank you sir!

Tx_Bandit
02-04-2011, 03:23 PM
Reviving an older thread. This may be a stupid question, but couldn't you mount the adjustable rear spring perches on the bottom of the spring? Seems like it would make future adjustments easier to do.
FYI did a search and found that some people have done this:

Camaro install
http://www.crystalridge.net/cars/images/installs/suspension/rear%20spring%20perch.jpg

Vette:
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics3/Allstar1.JPG

Also found out that Bimmers do it like this too.

Ev0lv3
02-04-2011, 03:30 PM
I dont believe so. I'm sure they could design it that way.


Either way you have to take the weight off the spring to adjust them cause they won't budge otherwise.

Tx_Bandit
02-04-2011, 04:03 PM
I dont believe so. I'm sure they could design it that way.


Either way you have to take the weight off the spring to adjust them cause they won't budge otherwise.

True, you have to take the weight off, adjusting them with weight on them will often strip the adjuster,
but it sure lookes easier to do with the perch on the bottom rather than up where you can hardly see them, much less reach them.

EDIT: Checked with Circuit Motorsports and was told that they see no problem with mounting the adjusters on the bottom. That is if they fit, but I believe the top and bottom spring retainers are shaped the same

fastrt09
04-21-2012, 06:32 AM
Do you have the rear cradle torque specs? I keep finding 2 different numbers

BoostedHemi
06-28-2012, 01:55 AM
About how long an hard would you say this is ?

iceysole12345
06-28-2012, 04:07 AM
Do you have the rear cradle torque specs? I keep finding 2 different numbers

Yea can some one add ALLthe torque specs for the whole install

Pale Rider
06-28-2012, 02:57 PM
EDIT: Checked with Circuit Motorsports and was told that they see no problem with mounting the adjusters on the bottom. That is if they fit, but I believe the top and bottom spring retainers are shaped the same

They can NOT be installed upside down. At all. I tried. The pockets are not allowing one to do that.

Pale Rider
06-28-2012, 02:59 PM
Yea can some one add ALLthe torque specs for the whole install

http://www.silverbulletpartners.com/pedders_pdfs/160059.pdf

iceysole12345
06-28-2012, 05:51 PM
http://www.silverbulletpartners.com/pedders_pdfs/160059.pdf



thankyou!

Meech
06-28-2012, 05:59 PM
Do you have the rear cradle torque specs? I keep finding 2 different numbers

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/Meech355/LXFFrontTorquespecs-1.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/Meech355/LXFRWDRearTorquespecs.jpg


This is my install:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/f116/major-install-pics-thank-you-speedlogix-circuitmotorsports-jays-hot-rods-295347/index6.html (http://www.lxforums.com/board/f116/major-install-pics-thank-you-speedlogix-circuitmotorsports-jays-hot-rods-295347/index6.html)

netnathan
07-04-2013, 01:26 AM
Subscribed..

Ivanzoz
01-13-2014, 08:57 AM
I know I am reviving an old thread...but I am interested in purchasing some BCR coilovers

So how are these things holding up? It has been more than 4 years since the install

Thanks for the great write up by the way

Blacktopcop
01-17-2014, 09:10 PM
I just bought them today and will be installing tonight. I hope this thread will lead the way lol

srt8-in-largo
01-17-2014, 09:20 PM
Cool. If you don't mind, share your impressions of the ride quality.

Blacktopcop
01-18-2014, 12:05 AM
Will do! Im going for more low than the OP but this provides a great starting point. I am bout to tackle the beast now. Ill be sure to take pics along the way. ( I work nights.. Reason for the midnight project lol, im wide awake)

Blacktopcop
01-19-2014, 02:30 AM
I dont believe so. I'm sure they could design it that way.


Either way you have to take the weight off the spring to adjust them cause they won't budge otherwise.

Is there any way to take the weight off of the rear without dropping the entire rear cradle again? My fronts are on point but I need to adjust the collar and lower the rear a bit more.

Montreal300
01-19-2014, 09:22 AM
Nope. It's either drop the cradle or drop the lower A arm. I use two floor jacks, one under the car chassis and one under the arm.

Blacktopcop
01-19-2014, 03:20 PM
Oh goodie lol. Well thank you

Blacktopcop
01-19-2014, 11:08 PM
Brought the front up 1/4" its just high enough to clear the wheel well at full lock. OP used the bottom of the wheel lip to fender measurement. Hes at 26", Im at 24.25" up front. Until I can get a friend to help this week the rear is still at 26.75" fender to lower lip. I will be bringing the rear down to 24.25" as well.

TheBlack1
01-28-2014, 11:17 PM
GREAT THREAD!! Thank you all for the good info.!

Fireman2118, thank you again for the direction!!!

typan
01-28-2016, 04:13 PM
Great write up hemi family, the front is not a problem but I can’t get my head around with the adjustments required on the rear setup, you show off ground with BCR coil overs at 19” OK is that with the springs in place and using the shocks fully extended to get 19” in other words how do I get the 19" off ground adjustment from hub centre to fender lip what makes that measurements?

Hemi Family
01-29-2016, 12:56 PM
I know I am reviving an old thread...but I am interested in purchasing some BCR coilovers

So how are these things holding up? It has been more than 4 years since the install

Thanks for the great write up by the way

No problems to date, although I haven't tracked the car in 3 years and she doesn't see a lot of road time these days. I've picked up some other project cars that are taking up my time.

Hemi Family
01-29-2016, 12:58 PM
Great write up hemi family, the front is not a problem but I can’t get my head around with the adjustments required on the rear setup, you show off ground with BCR coil overs at 19” OK is that with the springs in place and using the shocks fully extended to get 19” in other words how do I get the 19" off ground adjustment from hub centre to fender lip what makes that measurements?

It's been a while but my recollection is the shock sets the suspension travel limitation, so adjust the shock length to get the numbers I was seeing.

typan
01-29-2016, 04:57 PM
Hi Hemi Family thanks for the reply, OK if I leave out the springs and set the travel limits as you say that part I get but what about the screw adjustments on the BCR rear springs how do I work out how much to screw in or out to get my ride height?

Ev0lv3
01-29-2016, 05:16 PM
The back ride height is.. Set it once.. If it's at 29" and you want it at 28.5, take half inch out of the adjustable perch in the rear spring. Yes, you'll need to loosen the lower control arm every time you do it. It should only take you twice.

As for the shock itself, you really don't need to adjust the threaded part unless you want to set a preload. Which I wouldn't do unless you know exactly what you're doing. It also puts extra stress on your upper shock mount. I personally wouldn't recommend it.

Hope that makes sense.

typan
01-29-2016, 09:11 PM
I have the rear spring adjustable perch set out all of the way and it's at 29 3/4" from ground to fender lip with 255/45/20 wheels (I require rear ground clearance because of the driveway is ****)

Hemi Family
02-01-2016, 10:07 AM
Hi Hemi Family thanks for the reply, OK if I leave out the springs and set the travel limits as you say that part I get but what about the screw adjustments on the BCR rear springs how do I work out how much to screw in or out to get my ride height?

Trial and error...as different spring rates will sag differently. Start in the middle of threads, set the car down and check your ride height. Screw the collar up or down to match the desired ride height. As someone else posted it is roughly equal to the distance desired i.e. 1/2" lower = 1/2" of thread. I found it was a ratio, not perfectly equal as the perch is further in so 3/8" - 7/16" = 1/2" at the fender.

typan
02-02-2016, 03:02 AM
Thanks guys

Becker
04-10-2019, 04:01 AM
I know, I know, this thread is a bit old, but I could use those missing attachments.

CJR300C
04-10-2019, 04:21 PM
Has anyone with the BC Coilovers upgraded to the Swift Springs? If so, to what spring rating?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ENUF PWR
04-14-2019, 04:40 PM
I did. I went with Swift springs in the front. I went with 10k springs. The rears are KW progressive spring. I liked the rears ride height and comfort so I didn't upgrade them. Plus it's such a PITA to adjust the ride height of the rear. I just added the Bc rear shocks. The Swift I chose were for ride quality. The ride quality is excellent. I had swift springs on a Lexus and that was the best ride quality in a lowered car I ever been in. Swifts are worth the upgrade depending on your needs.