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RobsSXT
12-01-2009, 10:44 PM
EDIT AS OF SEPTEMBER 2014- I wrote this in late 2009. While nothing has changed in the install, I've had my suspension out a few times for cleaning (yes, I'm "that guy") and adjustments. The only change I made was how I do the rears. I remove the lower shock bolt and then the two bolts to drop the entire rear cradle on one side. It's MUCH easier, and MUCH quicker than how I did it the first time and shown here. Try it.

Here they are!


http://rotopax.com/automotive/kit.jpg




With that, lets get to the install.



Jack up your car and remove your wheel. Secure the jackstands and ensure you are working safely. I'd also take the removed wheel and put it under the car...

Don't tap on threads with a hammer to push these balljoints out. Use a puller. You can rent them for free at most quality auto parts stores.








http://rotopax.com/automotive/outer_tierod.jpg



Start by removing the outer tierod. Remove the bolt and use a puller to push it out. Don't tap the top with a hammer, you will damage the threads. Remove either the top or bottom of the stabilizer link. We remove the top. You'll also probably need a 3-jaw puller to push it out






http://rotopax.com/automotive/stabilizer_link.jpg



http://rotopax.com/automotive/lower_shock_assembly_1.jpg




Now we need to continue by removing the lower shock assembly. Start by removing this nut and the bolt that tightens down around the strut. Next, remove the bottom bolt from the lower shock assembly and the lower control arm.




http://rotopax.com/automotive/lower_shock_assembly_2.jpg




http://rotopax.com/automotive/lower_shock_assembly_3.jpg



With the outer tierod out of it's way, push the bolt out. You'll notice that the shaft is knurled just below the head. You can't twist it out, it has to be pushed out. Once the above steps are completed, you can pull down on the lower shock assembly and remove it from the car.



http://rotopax.com/automotive/lower_shock_assembly_4.jpg




http://rotopax.com/automotivent/upper_shock_assembly.jpg


The strut is now just being held in place by the three bolts up top on the strut tower. Have someone hold the shock to prevent it from falling out, then remove the three bolts. Your strut will now come out the bottom. Installation of the new strut is the reverse of removing it. Here is a photo of it installed.



http://rotopax.com/automotive/front_installed.jpg

RobsSXT
12-01-2009, 10:45 PM
EDIT AS OF SEPTEMBER 2014- I wrote this in late 2009. While nothing has changed in the install, I've had my suspension out a few times for cleaning (yes, I'm "that guy") and adjustments. The only change I made was how I do the rears. I remove the lower shock bolt and then the two bolts to drop the entire rear cradle on one side. It's MUCH easier, and MUCH quicker than how I did it the first time and shown here. Try it.

THE REAR

Now that the front is done, lets tackle the rear. It's only fair to let you know that the rear is more difficult to do than the front. Even though there is less to undo, the lower control arm is tricky to get back in and get the bolt through. Having two jacks helped a lot.



Jack up your car and remove your wheel. Secure the jackstands and ensure you are working safely. I'd also take the removed wheel and put it under the car...

Don't tap on threads with a hammer to push these balljoints out. Use a puller. You can rent them for free at most quality auto parts stores.






http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/rear_shock_top.jpg



Start by removing two upper bolts for the rear shock.
The bottom of the shock is held in place by a single bolt. Once you remove it, the entire shock can be removed.



http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/rear_shock_bottom.jpg



http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/control_arm_bolt.jpg


Next, we need to start removing the bolt that holds the end of the lower control arm to the rear cradle. You'll only be able to get it out so far before...


You run into this- the rear exhaust is in the way. So we'll need to either drop it, or do what we did- raise it just enough for the bolt to *almost* clear. This is where the second jack came in handy. We simply raised the exhaust enough for the bolt to come out. It's still tight, but a bit easier getting the bolt out than dropping the exhaust.




http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/exhaust.jpg



http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/control_arm_lowered.jpg


This picture doesn't show it too well, but the top arrow shows how the lower control arm is separated from the cradle, the the lower arrow shows how the control arm is actually dangling down. Once it is down, you can remove your old spring in preparation for your new one.
Remove the old lower spring rubber. In this photo, we used some spray lubricant and ran the new spring inside it. It was a bit easier getting it on this way.



http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/spring_bottom_rubber.jpg



http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/spring_top.jpg


Now install the upper collar into the spring, and then the spring into the car. With this kit, there was also a rubber gasket that goes between the collar and the body. You'll need to remove the rubber spacer that the stock spring was sitting in because you won't need it.
With the spring installed, you can install the rear shock.


http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/rear_shock_top_bolting_in.jpg



http://www.rotopax.com/automotive/installed.jpg


Now that the spring and shock are installed, you can install the lower control arm.




Some tips on installing the lower control arm.


It might be easier to put back into place without the shock installed. It can go in last if needed.
Using two jacks may help. In our case, we kept the exhaust raised up for the bolt to be pushed back through the lower control arm.
You might need a pry bar to help maneuver the control arm in place. Just be careful, remember you are probably on jackstands.
Use a screwdriver or something to put through the hole, so if you need to lower and re-position the jack, you won't have to start from scratch.

RobsSXT
12-01-2009, 10:46 PM
Interested in knowing how to adjust the coilovers? Lets start with the front.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_adjustment/front1.jpg




Using the supplied spanner, loosen the lower tightening ring (1). The idea is to thread up (2), the bottom adjuster part of the strut. This will shorten the length of the strut, lowering the car. If you want to raise the car- thread it down, to lengthen the strut and make the strut longer.





http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_adjustment/front2.jpg



I took all three rings and locked them together. This made it easy to use the spanner and turn the entire strut in the direction I needed it to go to extend or shorten it.




http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_adjustment/front3.jpg



Here is the strut in it's lowest position. Take the bottom ring and lock it down to the lower mount.



http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p53/94eg/SHOCK.jpg

To explain this another way-
- upper gold collar adjusts preload
- lower gold collar locks upper preload collar
- lower mount in blue adjusts ride height
- collar in red locks blue lower mount in place.

Ideally you just want the gold collars barely snug against the spring. If you add preload and start to compress the spring, you will have a very very tough time adjusting ride height while the shock is on the car. This is because you are supposed to spin the shock body up or down in the blue lower mount. If the gold collars are pushing too hard against the spring, they won't let the shock body spin, and you won't be able to adjust ride height.



What about using the rings to lower the car by bringing the spring down? That's not how this system is designed. The two top rings used for the spring are to pre-load the springs. Lowering the car by adjusting the springs will damage the system. In simplest terms, it may allow the dampers to bottom out- exactly why we paid money for a high performance suspension system versus using factory parts- so it doesn't bottom out. Don't do it!



What is pre-loading and how do you do it? Loosen the lock rings and take all the preload off the springs till they hang loose and you can move them up and down between the perches. Then move the spring perch up, turning with just your thumb and index finger till you feel some resistance and cannot turn any more easily. Secure the lock ring and that should be a good starting point. This would be 0 preload.



Setting a higher preload gives the Magnum less of an initial dive/pitch under braking or acceleration. This is good to have as you want to keep the car as even as possible. You don't want to take weight off the wheels that you want to keep down during heavy acceleration or braking.



When you put the weight of a corner of a car (probably around 700lbs) over your spring it compresses to absorb that weight. With 400lb spring, it will compress about 1 3/4". So, if you start with the lower collar so that it is just tight enough to hold the top of the spring against the upper perch this would be 0 preload. Raise the collar 1 3/4", and you now have 700lb's of preload. (arbitrary #'s for the sake of illustration.) Since you have preloaded the spring, the same weight as the car's corner, when you put the car on that spring, it will not compress at all, and will simply sit on top of the spring. If you were to hit a bump, the force would still compress the spring the same amount it normally would if you had set the spring to 0 preload. Now if you set the spring to say 900lbs of preload, when you hit the bump (say its a bump that generates around 250lbs of upward force), the spring will compress much less b/c the spring is already beyond the load specified to absorb the bump. Since there is only 50lbs beyond the preload, the spring will only compress about 1/8th inch, and the car will likely be launched over the bump.

You will likely never ever preload a spring beyond the weight of the corner of the car it is on for that exact reason. Springs are there to absorb bumps, if there are any bumps at all, this is a bad idea.




What good is preloading the spring then?

It can provide you with more suspension travel in certain situations. In the ideal world, having the spring at 0 preload would place the piston inside the shock exactly halfway through it's stroke (middle of shock) once the car's weight is resting on the spring. This is almost never the case. By preloading the spring, you can adjust the amount of rebound, or compression travel you have in the shock. If you preload like 200lbs, this will give you more compression travel, and will help keep your Magnum from bottoming out when cornering. You have to be careful though, b/c you don't want to sacrifice too much rebound travel, or you could cause all sorts of other problems.




Almost everyone recommends a preload of 0 for general street use.





Now lets look at the rear.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_adjustment/rear1.jpg



1: Remove the shock. Two bolts up top, one in the bottom.

2: Loosen the upper locking ring.

3: The lower ring will be the one that is moved to raise or lower.

4: Move the lower ring in this direction to lower the car. Move it in the opposite to raise it.

5: Install the shock again. Adjust it so there is no slack- meaning that once the bottom bolt is put through, adjust it so the top is already sitting up with the shock tower. You shouldn't need to use the bolts to suck it all together.




Remember to take measurements of how one side is done, then duplicate this on the other side. Make sure both sides are equal in everything you do.




How to adjust the firmness of the ride.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_other/adjusters.jpg




Each shock and strut comes with these handy dial adjusters. They are pretty self explanatory. Set them hard for the track or soft for the street. They have 30 different adjustments. Whatever you set it as, just make sure you count them off and make them the same on the front and the same on the rear. Each axle needs to be the same.




How do I have my suspension set up?




http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_adjustment/lowest_height.jpg




1: I have my lower mount adjusted as far up as it will go. This is the shortest position for the strut, so the lowest my front will go.

2: I have a distance of exactly 2 " between the very bottom of the spring, and the very top of the lower mount. This preloaded my spring to a 0 at least, because I can still turn it with my hands, although it's pretty stiff.

3: For driving around town, having my dampness set at the softest was ok. When I took my car on the freeway, it bottomed out on a couple of bridges. I played with the settings, and right now I have them set at this- start at the softest- and I turned them 13 clicks to the hard side- both fronts.This stiffened up the ride a bit, and we're still playing with these settings.




http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_adjustment/front_measurement.jpg




The distance between the ground and the wheel well (top, tires at 35PSI, 275/40/20" tires) is 28", exactly for both front wheels.





The Rear:




http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_adjustment/rear_measurement_spring.jpg




In my car, I have the rear set up like this. I have a 1" space between the bottom of the bottom ring to the bottom of the rear collar.




http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_adjustment/rear_height.jpg



The distance between the ground and the wheel well (top, tires at 35PSI, 275/40/20" tires) is 28", exactly for both rear wheels.

The above measurements are only to reference MY ride height.

RobsSXT
12-01-2009, 10:46 PM
Here is the car at it's maximum height.



http://rotopax.com/automotive/coilovers_other/max_height1.jpg




Here it is at it's minimum height.

http://rotopax.com/automotive/min_height1.jpg


Measurements from the center of the hub to the top of the wheelwell.
STOCK SUSPENSION:
On Ground Rear= 17.5"
Off Ground Rear= 21.75"
On Ground Front= 17.75"
Off Ground Front= 21.75"

BCRacing Coilovers (MAXIMUM HEIGHT)
On Ground Rear= 16"
Off Ground Rear= 20.5"
On Ground Front= 18"
Off Ground Front= 21"

BCRacing Coilovers (MINIMUM HEIGHT)
On Ground Rear= 13.5
Off Ground Rear= 18.5
On Ground Front= 15"
Off Ground Front= 18"


Now we needed to find way to get at the adjusters in the rear. When we had the shocks out, we drilled a small pilot hole up through the top shock mount. It put a small hole in the plastic in the back. Then we took a 1 1/4" hole saw and made two holes. Then we took some sandpaper and cleaned it up. Now we can make adjustments to the rear shock dampness when we need to from soft to hard. Then we bought some 1 1/4" metal plugs to put in the holes for a cleaner look.




http://rotopax.com/automotive/holesaw1.jpg

http://rotopax.com/automotive/holesaw2.jpg




http://rotopax.com/automotive/holesaw3.jpg

http://rotopax.com/automotive/holesaw4.jpg

http://rotopax.com/automotive/holesaw5.jpg






With all of that, here is the final stance.





http://rotopax.com/automotive/stance.jpg

RobsSXT
12-01-2009, 10:47 PM
If you felt these posts were helpful, feel free to send some rep points. A lot of work went into this and it's still not done.

BCR is changing the rears on my recommendation to allow for the car to go higher in the rear to match the front.

Now for my official review of what we have so far. Ready?



The fit and finish of the parts are great. This was the first time they were put in a car (these are the prototypes) and everything went in smoothly. The black and brass theme that BCR uses looks great. It looks more performance oriented than flash and show.

I've been able to put some drive time under this suspension. I just wanted to give everyone a quick update on my feelings on them.

Let me explain it in one word- SMOOTH. My car glides along the road and it feels like I'm just gliding along. Bumps in the road don't bother me anymore like they did with springs only. Same with coming on and off bridges on the freeway. I have the rear set at max soft and the fronts either at max soft, or at 15 clicks in (which is right between max soft and hard). It just feels like it "should". I have a performance suspension, and can make it feel "performance" with a few clicks of the dampers. But I don't have a Hemi, (and AWD no less) so I'm not much of a performance oriented guy (although I have a new Diablo enroute- YAY!). I'm for comfort and cruisability. My car is a joy to drive again, because I can put my wife in, and my 5 and 7 year old in, and cruise, without worrying about bounce, harshness, and wondering if my wife is secretly complaining about driving the Magnum instead of the Envoy or the kids can't nap in the car without getting jarred around. I don't feel sketchy and worry about people wondering if my car is on hydraulics because it's bouncing up and down the road. I don't feel like I'm hammering the snot out of my car with a harsh spring-only ride. We took the car on an errand today, and my wife even commented on how smooth it is now. That made me feel good, because she's not really a car girl (more of a comfy SUV girl), so when she makes a comment like that, it's substantial. These BCRacing coilovers have bridged the gap for us AWD guys and put us in line with the RWD crowd. We finally have options. I have no idea what KW's are like, I've never been in a car with them. But I can and will vouch for the BCR Coilovers. I would recommend them any day for anyone looking at AWD suspension.


Conclusion:

Great product. Finally, something for the AWD crowd that won't break the bank. The estimated price for this full set should be around $1200 and will (should) be available for the consumer market in February 2010. It's such a HUGE improvement over springs alone for us AWD guys who want to bring it down like the RWD guys. It's truly like night and day in terms of the ride quality compared to springs alone.

Coopers_Dad
12-01-2009, 11:15 PM
Awsome writeup beans for all the hard work!!

Nickrt
12-02-2009, 12:19 AM
Great post!

How long did it take for the install? Did you leave the fronts at full low and raise the rears a bit to even her out? I assume that you got an alignment post install. Were they able to dial in the proper caster, camber and toe?

RobsSXT
12-02-2009, 12:33 AM
Great post!

How long did it take for the install? Did you leave the fronts at full low and raise the rears a bit to even her out? I assume that you got an alignment post install. Were they able to dial in the proper caster, camber and toe?

Yes, the front are full low and I raised up the rear. I haven't gotten the alignment yet. I have it sitting at the same height as I had it with springs, and I had that aligned. I'll be getting this aligned soon.

I need to obtain these-

http://www.iapdirect.com/product.php?productid=42066

I have a bit of negative camber in the rear. These will get that squared away. But before I can do that, I have to roll my fenders.

The initial install was about 4 hours because I was taking my time, photographing and stuff. But I'm getting quicker! I removed a rear spring in 15 minutes the other day!

420SRT8
12-02-2009, 12:35 AM
Veddy nice....your car looks great sittn low!

MattRobertson
12-02-2009, 12:54 AM
Wow. What a fantastic writeup. RobsSXT, let me know when you have the writeup where you like it and I will move this into the Knowledge Base.

I was wondering about the front end as its different than mine. I see you have an AWD... that explains that :-).

Fantastic to see that the AWDs got some love on suspension. I believe only KW had AWD coilovers until now.

RobsSXT
12-02-2009, 03:04 AM
Wow. What a fantastic writeup. RobsSXT, let me know when you have the writeup where you like it and I will move this into the Knowledge Base.

I was wondering about the front end as its different than mine. I see you have an AWD... that explains that :-).

Fantastic to see that the AWDs got some love on suspension. I believe only KW had AWD coilovers until now.

Thanks man, you can move it. I made some edits and formatting.

Tyrant
12-02-2009, 04:44 AM
Excellent write up Rob.

btw your camber looks pretty good from the pics, which alignment kit did you use?

CT-MSRT
12-02-2009, 08:16 AM
Looks like i wasn't the only one with rear ride height issues. The Xa's i got were the same deal with the rear of my magnum being not so high and quite a bit up in front. Since these are seemingly identical in design i am curious to see what comes through for the rear suspension. I'd bet that whatever works to bring the rear of your magnum up will bolt right into mine and give me a proper range of adjust ability without using a spacer.

CircuitMotorsports
12-02-2009, 11:56 AM
Hey great writeup Rob, lots of good info here on install and adjustments!

Car looks good too.

We defintiely have to thank Rob for helpiung us test these and giving us his feedback. He's played a pivotal role in bringing these to market.

THANKS ROB!


I know you're all asking....So when will these be ready? SOON!

We are just waiting to see if the height adjustment fixes we make will give the range we feel is acceptable and then it's on to production :)

jay2g1
12-02-2009, 12:17 PM
Great write up!!!

Ron380
12-02-2009, 12:20 PM
Great writeup Rob! :thumbs_u:

Looking forward to more feedback on these! :pepper:

cleary524
12-02-2009, 12:50 PM
For sure! Nice job with the write up and the quality of your work. Easy to understand and thorough. Beans to you!

AWDJohn
12-02-2009, 01:32 PM
Very nice write up and glad to see them on the road. I appreciate all the time you have invested in the write up and review. I do have some questions/requests if possible:

At the lowest setting how much ground clearance does the belly pan have?

Is it possible for you to drive around with the height settings it between the lowest and highest settings. While the lowest looks great, the ground clearance would be an issue for me.

Is it still pretty tight adjusting the shock valving in the rear? Perhaps a knob with a hex key in the center would make adjusting it easier. The access hole is nice, but it still looks like quite a challenge to get in there to turn the knob.

Thanks again.

CoolFlo
12-02-2009, 01:40 PM
wow .. awesome write-up .. green beans for you man!

CircuitMotorsports
12-02-2009, 02:07 PM
Very nice write up and glad to see them on the road. I appreciate all the time you have invested in the write up and review. I do have some questions/requests if possible:

At the lowest setting how much ground clearance does the belly pan have?

Is it possible for you to drive around with the height settings it between the lowest and highest settings. While the lowest looks great, the ground clearance would be an issue for me.

Is it still pretty tight adjusting the shock valving in the rear? Perhaps a knob with a hex key in the center would make adjusting it easier. The access hole is nice, but it still looks like quite a challenge to get in there to turn the knob.

Thanks again.

Yes, you can set the height anywherte you want it.

And yes, we have extenders that go on the rear for easier adjusting, they are basically a cable with an adjuster on top, so it would stick out through a small hole drilled over the coilover.

:thumbs_u:

MattRMagnum
12-02-2009, 05:20 PM
And yes, we have extenders that go on the rear for easier adjusting, they are basically a cable with an adjuster on top, so it would stick out through a small hole drilled over the coilover.
That sounds just about like what I was planning to do for the backs. :thumbs_u:

Hemi Family
12-02-2009, 05:44 PM
Great write up! Silly me, I thought you had four wheel steering from the first pic :) not used to seeing the axle there.
What spring rates did you use?
Rubber or pillowball mounts?
I can't wait until mine arrive!

RobsSXT
12-02-2009, 06:35 PM
Excellent write up Rob.

btw your camber looks pretty good from the pics, which alignment kit did you use?

I haven't used any kit (yet), just a regular 4 wheel alignment from Les Shwab.



Very nice write up and glad to see them on the road. I appreciate all the time you have invested in the write up and review. I do have some questions/requests if possible:

At the lowest setting how much ground clearance does the belly pan have?

Is it possible for you to drive around with the height settings it between the lowest and highest settings. While the lowest looks great, the ground clearance would be an issue for me.

Is it still pretty tight adjusting the shock valving in the rear? Perhaps a knob with a hex key in the center would make adjusting it easier. The access hole is nice, but it still looks like quite a challenge to get in there to turn the knob.

Thanks again.

I'll have to measure the distance between the ground and belly pan. Lemme get back to you.

The issue with the rear being too low was also an issue with me. I couldn't keep it like that.

It's not too bad getting my fingers in to adjust the rears. Keep in mind, thats just how I set it up, and not a recommendation from BCR or Circuitmotorsports. Tristian said he was going to ship out the extenders for me to try, and when he does, I have a plan on how to use them with those existing holes I drilled.



What spring rates did you use? Rubber or pillowball mounts? I can't wait until mine arrive!

Tristian, can you help with this? I'm not sure what I have.

Also, here are updated pics from today with my final stance that I drive on.

http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_all/stance1.jpg


http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_all/stance2.jpg


http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_all/stance3.jpg

http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/coilovers_all/stance4.jpg

CircuitMotorsports
12-02-2009, 07:49 PM
Man, that's a good lookin' AWD Magnum :)

And you have the standard rubber mounts, Rob.

nen2001
12-02-2009, 10:14 PM
wow looks good rob and great write up

cleary524
12-03-2009, 12:25 AM
Rob,

Love your website man! Good for you! "Praise the Lowered" LOL, I nearly fell out of the chair!

Have you discovered Billet Technology yet? Your car would snap if you added some billet bling on the inside and underhood! Check them out...http://www.custombilletstore.com/default.asp You won't be dissapointed.

RobsSXT
12-03-2009, 06:35 PM
^ Thanks! I know I need to do some performance tweaks to it, but it will come in due time. I'm just glad I have my suspension squared away. But I'm not done! Sways and rear camber kit are next.

I like the Billet stuff- top quality!

MattRobertson
12-03-2009, 06:50 PM
Thanks man, you can move it. I made some edits and formatting.
Done. Retitled it a little so its more clear in case someone is searching. There is a redirect from the original location that will last a month in case anyone visits the old forum and wonders where the thread went.

LouZ
12-03-2009, 07:12 PM
Do you have any tips on adjustment for drag racing??????

I want the front to stay down and the rear to stay up....

Gabe
12-03-2009, 08:05 PM
Do you have any tips on adjustment for drag racing??????

I want the front to stay down and the rear to stay up....

"lower the front and raise the rear" :mrgreen:









:Na_Na_Na_Na:

LouZ
12-03-2009, 08:28 PM
"lower the front and raise the rear" :mrgreen:









:Na_Na_Na_Na:

LOL...Actually Gabe I'm correct in what I want......I dont car about the stance.....I've done this with lowering springs.......

I want more resistance for the front to lift and the same resistance for the rear to squat.......

You obviously dont know what I'm talking about......
























J/K

Gabe
12-03-2009, 08:33 PM
LOL...Actually Gabe I'm correct in what I want......I dont car about the stance.....I've done this with lowering springs.......

I want more resistance for the front to lift and the same resistance for the rear to squat.......

...


Well, I'm thinking that lowering the front and raising the rear (probably not to their extreme settings) and then setting the stiffness to max, would be the preferred set-up.

Stuff that nose into the pavement (which also transfers some weight to the front), raise that rear to give it more to compress, and stiffen it up all around.


What do you think ?

Hemi Family
12-03-2009, 09:06 PM
Do you have any tips on adjustment for drag racing??????

I want the front to stay down and the rear to stay up....

I'm by far no expert but...I would think you would want to increase the front rebound and the rear compression to max. This would slow the rotation of the vehicle...You may want to ask Tristan at Circuit Motor Sports for a better answer regarding the capability of the BCR Coilovers.

LouZ
12-04-2009, 09:03 AM
Well, I'm thinking that lowering the front and raising the rear (probably not to their extreme settings) and then setting the stiffness to max, would be the preferred set-up.

Stuff that nose into the pavement (which also transfers some weight to the front), raise that rear to give it more to compress, and stiffen it up all around.


What do you think ?

I tried using only front lowering springs. The front still lifted and actually felt dangerous to drive. Thank experiment lasted less than a week.

CircuitMotorsports
12-04-2009, 02:35 PM
I'll be honest....I'm not a big drag racer...so I am not sure what the ideal setup is for the coilovers for pure drag.

However, with all of the adjustability all you have to do is tinker with it to find the right setting.

-You can stiffen the rear or soften it with the damping
-You can preload the springs on the rear more or less to help with weight transfer
-You can set ride height independatly of spring pre-laod to promote more or less weight transfer
-Same goes for the fronts.

So you guys should be able to find the sweet spot for drag racing with reduced front lift :)

LowGo
12-05-2009, 09:55 PM
Great write-up, Rob. Thanks for going into so much detail. I'm looking forward to seeing how these will work with my air bags.

Jweezy
12-08-2009, 09:53 PM
I am having trouble putting the lower control arm back using the jack. I cant get it to line up.

RobsSXT
12-09-2009, 01:22 AM
Try to get one side in and shove a screwdriver in there to keep the control arm from falling back down. Then try to re-position the jack and get the arm back up, and if you can line up at least one side, ram the bolt in and tap it back in with a hammer. Thats what I did.

I also put the pivot bolt in backwards. It was too tough with that exhaust in the way putting it back in. Now the nut is towards the back of the car.

LouZ
12-21-2009, 11:15 AM
Hey Rob,

Ya think you could try a raked setup to see how that feels/reacts?

I don't mean front to lowest and rear to max :) ... a street able driving raked stance

LouZ
12-21-2009, 03:13 PM
Measurements from the center of the hub to the top of the wheelwell.
STOCK SUSPENSION:
On Ground Rear= 17.5"
Off Ground Rear= 21.75"
On Ground Front= 17.75"
Off Ground Front= 21.75"

BCRacing Coilovers (MAXIMUM HEIGHT)
On Ground Rear= 16"
Off Ground Rear= 20.5"
On Ground Front= 18"
Off Ground Front= 21"

BCRacing Coilovers (MINIMUM HEIGHT)
On Ground Rear= 13.5
Off Ground Rear= 18.5
On Ground Front= 15"
Off Ground Front= 18"




I would like to see the measurements for the final product .......Please

RobsSXT
12-22-2009, 07:58 PM
Hey Rob,

Ya think you could try a raked setup to see how that feels/reacts?

I don't mean front to lowest and rear to max :) ... a street able driving raked stance

To be honest, I've had my wheels on and off every other day it seems for the last three weeks tweaking this, adjusting that, installing this and measuring that for BCR. I just installed the new fronts, raised them, measured and lowered and measured, then put to my ride height. I'm really not feeling like tearing into it again for a while. I'm not sure what to say anyways on steering and handling when it's raked. I could say it feels good or it feels bad- I don't really know what I'm looking for. Do I set it hard? Soft? I don't know where to go for this. It's a half day for one scenario and I'm not sure I'm up to it. I know it's an unpopular answer, but especially this time of year I have too much going on. Sorry LouZ.

RobsSXT
12-22-2009, 08:05 PM
I would like to see the measurements for the final product .......Please

BCR is getting this data from what I'm sending them through Circuitmotorsports.

SoCalSRT300
01-24-2010, 03:01 AM
awesome write-up Rob!!!

RobsSXT
01-25-2010, 02:00 AM
^^ Thanks!!

300cAMG
02-07-2010, 02:48 AM
great write up and pics Rob. BIG THANKS

FlatEric
03-19-2010, 11:58 AM
Great thread, car looks really good.

Can you tell us the measurements of your final setup?

I went to 15.5 inches from center of hub to fender with the KWs, but I was scraping going into my driveway and hitting every speed bump, so I had it raised to a hair under 16 and that made it much more drivable, only scrapes on the wide speed bumps going into the secure areas at work. Looked better down low though, just could not keep it there.

RobsSXT
04-04-2010, 08:36 PM
Ok, I have made some changes to the setup.


In February 2010, We decided to finally install our rear shock adjusters. The BCR coilovers have adjusters to firm up or soften the ride by turning the knob on the top of the shock. It has 30 levels of adjustment from nice and soft for the street to rock hard for the track.

Naturally, we jacked up the car removed the wheel.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/clean.jpg





When we originally installed these, we didn't know there were rear adjusters. We cut a 1" hole to allow adjustment, then found out these adjusters were available. We used some steel plugs to fill in the hole. However, with these adjusters, we just drilled a hole through the plug to allow the cable to come out. If we had known about these adjusters , the large hole wouldn't have been put in.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/plain_plug.jpg



We didn't need to pull the shock right out. We just un-did the top bolts and compressed it down to install the adjuster.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/shock_out.jpg



After that, we needed to cut to size the inner cable and outer sheath. This cable is just like a brake cable on a bike, just a lot larger.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/inner_cable.jpg


http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/sheath.jpg



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/cut_sheath.jpg


http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/cut_cable.jpg



In that last picture we put the plug back in. Once that is all done, repeat for the other side. Lastly is as simple as installing the adjusting knob. Just be sure it's snug when you tighten the small hex screw in. We have checked our final sizes and are happy with the results.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/check_size.jpg





Here are the final results. Now we can make fine tune adjustments to our suspension firmness right from the trunk even easier than before.



http://www.mydodgemagnum.com/images/stories/rear_adjusters/trunk1.jpg

unsaltedkracker
04-07-2010, 02:39 PM
Hey Rob, thinking about getting a setup very similar to this. Was wondering how close to full raised in the rear you are. Im trying to get the 22 inch viper wheels and wanted to have a little bit of a raked stance (not much, just dont want it to look like the back is lower than the front). I appreciate all of the pictures and this is a great write up!

JWC
04-19-2010, 08:42 PM
Thanks for the advice! does n e body know what camber kit i would need for a 2006 rt awd? i purchased the kw variant 2's but waiting to put them on untill i know what camber kit i need exactly, I dont wanna eat through tires? n e advice would be cool, thanks!!

Dern51
05-31-2010, 05:01 PM
Hey Rob. Yesterday I used your install guide for installing the coilovers and man what an EXCELLENT writeup!!! WAYYYYY clearer than the mumbo jumbo that came in the box with them. (Very nice product which appear to have been meticulously made, but I think the manual is an example of what babblefish is NOT good for.) Additionally my set came with some spacers (not discussed in the manual) that I tried but the ride was too high and closer to stock than anything else. So I pulled the back end apart again and removed them. (Not the end I'd have preferred to do twice...)

After I was done I found that the car handled amazingly better but I was getting some scraping in the front end while driving over some large dips in the road and was concerned that it may have been wheel to fender contact :panic:, but later found that my belly pan cover had actually made contact with the pavement. I suppose the fact that there's only 2 inches of clearance has something to do with that, so up to 3" we go.

I was wondering if you or anyone else had any issues with scraping the belly pan in your car? My heights are 28.25" in the front and 29.25 in the rear.

Here's the final look before I jack the front up a bit.

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks also to Tristan at CircuitMotorsports for taking care of my purchase and getting these great coilovers to me.

goodeforu
06-07-2010, 07:54 AM
Dern,
I also had issues with the front belly pan, I just keep adjusting the ride height till I could get it to stop. But I also noticed my belly pan is warped and hangs low toward the rear. Thinking of buying some aluminum sheet and modding one up.

Dern51
06-07-2010, 02:56 PM
Thanks for the response.

I did the same as you and raised the front up a bit. I tried a bit of pre-load to limit travel a bit but was having problems getting the height right so I went with zero again. Your thought of making a new bellypan is a good one I think and I might do the same as the plastic one that I have is pretty deformed too. I'm kinda wishing now that I went with 22s as this would have given me a bit better than an additional inch of clearance on 40s. I still worry about the cradle hitting the ground and doing some real damage. Have to see how it rides over the next couple of weeks.

I'm actually thinking of readjusting it seasonally and finding a way to mark the camber adjustments for 2 different ride heights so that I don't also have to get it aligned seasonally as well. Still not sure if this is a feasible option at this point or not.

goodeforu
06-07-2010, 07:48 PM
Dern,
Rather than mark them, I would suggest when you get the settings you want to purchase some wooden dowel rod and cut to length. Then you could just put them in the glove box with the wrenches and cut your adjustment time down. Something we use at work for make sure the track adjustment is right on some military vehicles is a piece of metal to go in between the track and the wheel. This could work that same way between the fender and the tire. Only issue there is milling the metal down after you have the setting right. Have not decided yet which way I am going to do just bouncing around some ideas around.

Dern51
06-17-2010, 01:48 PM
Are you talking dowels to make adjusting height easier, or to adjust camber? I was more thinking of some kind of markers on the camber adjusting cams to assist in realigning after raising or lowering so that I don't need to actually put it on a rack to line it all up again and paying someone to do it every season. Think this is at all feasible?

RobsSXT
06-18-2010, 03:59 PM
__

DA H.N.I.C.
07-26-2011, 12:12 AM
Very good write up!
Thanks!!

riperoo
08-10-2012, 09:47 PM
Hey Rob, wondering if you are still running this setup and if so, how has it held up all these years later?

RobsSXT
08-11-2012, 02:21 PM
Hey Rob, wondering if you are still running this setup and if so, how has it held up all these years later?

Still running strong. In fact, my wife was driving me home from the hospital the other day after I had a surgery. I was thankful I had a smooth ride, and even commented to her how AWESOME the suspension is in the Mag. I would buy this brand again, for sure. I haven't had one single issue with any of the suspension parts I got from BCR.

riperoo
08-12-2012, 08:26 PM
Still running strong. In fact, my wife was driving me home from the hospital the other day after I had a surgery. I was thankful I had a smooth ride, and even commented to her how AWESOME the suspension is in the Mag. I would buy this brand again, for sure. I haven't had one single issue with any of the suspension parts I got from BCR.

Great. thanks!! Hope your surgery went well and you are recouping!!!

RobsSXT
08-13-2012, 01:02 PM
All is well. Gallbladder removal, which is weird- I'm really fit and in shape and I have no medical issues whatsoever. I'm one of those P90X guys. Anyways, all is well.

I recently took my wheels off and did some looking around underneath. I do have some surface rust, which I guess is normal for cars in my area (Utah- they dump a ton of salt on the roads in the winter) so I guess I just need to do a better job of spraying off underneath more often.

wickedillusions
09-07-2012, 10:48 AM
great thread! used this when installing mine but my only question is to raise the rears a little bit, do you have to go through the whole process of removing the shock and the lower carrier bolt again?

RobsSXT
09-08-2012, 02:18 AM
Not if you can release some tension fron the rear spring. I couldn't. I had to remove the lower carrier bolt :(

FROSTY
09-08-2012, 06:56 PM
I used your thread to do my install too. It was very helpful. I still had some trial and error while adjusting the rear ride height. To lift my ride 1 inch, I adjusted the coils 1/2". I'd like to contribute that piece of info to use as a guide. Here's my stance, about 2.5" lower than stock.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu126/MileyCyrus_016/Photo1509.jpg

srt8madness
09-15-2012, 02:29 PM
I'm in the process of adjusting my bc's now(raising). When I set the spring height in the rear, do I install the strut at the hanging point of the hub, or do I jack the hub up to a certain point, then adjust the strut in that space? It seems that if I install it with the hub hanging down(with the spring and arm bolts in) that it will compress the strut when I liwer the cwr, and I wont have full travel up when im driving because it would bottom out. Am I wrong? How does that work?

riperoo
09-28-2012, 10:05 PM
Ok, getting ready to pull the trigger on these, my one concern that I can't seem to find too much info on, what about alignment? Is there a camber kit for these, front and rear? I still plan on using this as a driver and need to make sure the alignment is solid.

haist82
01-06-2013, 08:43 PM
^^^^ me 2, just ordered mine, have you guys installed camber kit, do you need one and do you need to roll the fenders?
And one more question, do you have to take coilovers out each time you want to adjust the height of the ride?
Thanks.

RobsSXT
01-06-2013, 09:27 PM
A camber kit will depend on how low you go. I needed one but never got it. Instead I just go in every once in a while and have them flip my tires around.

I did roll my fenders because I was so low.

When I adjust, I have to un-do the rear to let tension off the spring. The front can be adjusted easier without taking it all apart.

haist82
01-06-2013, 10:18 PM
Hey thanks for the quick reply, do you know by any chance what kind of camber kit i should get for 07 r/t?

TTMR
01-06-2013, 11:49 PM
Ok, getting ready to pull the trigger on these, my one concern that I can't seem to find too much info on, what about alignment? Is there a camber kit for these, front and rear? I still plan on using this as a driver and need to make sure the alignment is solid.
One of the reasons I want to lower is to get more camber, to each there own!

RobsSXT
01-07-2013, 09:33 AM
You will need to talk to your alignment tech. There is more than one kit, depending on how far out of whack you are.

haist82
01-18-2013, 03:39 PM
so Im installing mine right now and I have a question? what are this for?http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/haist82/2013-01-18112221_zps57d25b69.jpg

Meech
01-18-2013, 04:17 PM
Great write-up!!!!!!!!

Dr. Bud
01-18-2013, 04:35 PM
Very impressive write up!!!

haist82
01-18-2013, 10:31 PM
Hey Rob I have put my front coil-overs in today and I was wondering what did you loosen outer tie-rod for? Mine went in with no issues without loosing that bolt for the outer tie-rod.

RobsSXT
01-19-2013, 05:16 AM
Hey Rob I have put my front coil-overs in today and I was wondering what did you loosen outer tie-rod for? Mine went in with no issues without loosing that bolt for the outer tie-rod.

Good on ya. I adjusted mine over Christmas and didn't need to loosen the tie rod.

pjoseph24
06-29-2013, 09:05 PM
so Im installing mine right now and I have a question? what are this for?http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/haist82/2013-01-18112221_zps57d25b69.jpg

I am trying to figure out the same thing?!

Also any idea on why i can not see any of the pictures from the first post?

drag_racer
07-17-2013, 10:04 PM
Hey your pics are gone now...may want to fix that for anyone else that wants to follow this write-up

riperoo
08-15-2013, 02:32 PM
Rob, what happened to the pictures!!! This is like the Bible of Coilover installs!!!

1FASTSOFA
11-03-2013, 04:39 PM
no PICS?

Quiknen
11-05-2013, 12:04 AM
Along with pics,
Can anyone help post vendors or suggestions on where to get BCR's?
Please PM Me with any info/pricing :)
My 05' 300c AWD has 175k stock miles and my suspension starting to sound like its going to fall out from underneath me.

1FASTSOFA
11-05-2013, 12:25 AM
Circuit Motorsports vendor isle has them! :thumbs_u:

jross239
01-25-2014, 08:56 PM
Bummer. Where are the pictures? I'm suspension dumb and I dont know what all the different parts are just from the names.

Good write up

Great if the pictures would display

I'm guessing that the album on photobucket where the pictures were was edited by the poster and this thread was never updated with the new photo locations.

netnathan
09-19-2014, 06:28 PM
I guess it is no use asking....but...
No Pics??? Arghh....

jross239
09-19-2014, 08:03 PM
LoL
Guess not

DA H.N.I.C.
09-19-2014, 08:06 PM
I may be mistaken, and I need a size reference also, but they look like the shock isolator replacements for the front that I had to have BC R send me under warranty. But mine are all plastic and came in a group of 4. Also, mine are for a 2 wheel drive.


so Im installing mine rig
ht now and I have a question? what are this for?http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/haist82/2013-01-18112221_zps57d25b69.jpg

Treehop
09-22-2014, 12:48 AM
I have these on my 2010 Charger AWD. The rears sat lower when installed right out of the box. After scraping issues and raising the rear, my front and rear now sit at 29.5" from the ground to the top of the fender. Still looks lower than stock, and looks about a stock SRT height.

My bellypan was warped and was scraping everywhere, and during my last adjustment it was taken out. The scraping is a lot better, but once in a while on ****ty speedbumps and the "mohawk" like fins on the road at bus stops, i hear the dreaded metal scraping sound.

Everytime i drive over anything, my stomach drops and i automatically cringe...

I should have the same ground clearance as a stock SRT, so if i'm scraping like this, how are the SRT's and lambos getting by? My dampening is at 12 clicks, do i need to soften or stiffen it?

RobsSXT
09-22-2014, 04:06 PM
I know, I know... Lemme look at getting the pics back up. I had them under a domain name I had but I got rid of it.

RobsSXT
09-22-2014, 04:19 PM
K, I got most of the pics back up. One thread doesn't want to let me update it for some reason, lemme look at it.

Looking at these pics... Man, my car has undergone some crazy changes since 2009. And now when I adjust the rears, I just lower the rear cradle, it's a lot easier.

RobsSXT
09-22-2014, 04:21 PM
I have these on my 2010 Charger AWD. The rears sat lower when installed right out of the box. After scraping issues and raising the rear, my front and rear now sit at 29.5" from the ground to the top of the fender. Still looks lower than stock, and looks about a stock SRT height.

My bellypan was warped and was scraping everywhere, and during my last adjustment it was taken out. The scraping is a lot better, but once in a while on ****ty speedbumps and the "mohawk" like fins on the road at bus stops, i hear the dreaded metal scraping sound.

Everytime i drive over anything, my stomach drops and i automatically cringe...

I should have the same ground clearance as a stock SRT, so if i'm scraping like this, how are the SRT's and lambos getting by? My dampening is at 12 clicks, do i need to soften or stiffen it?

Got any pics? I'd stiffen your dampers up a bit and see how that is. It sounds like you are way low.

sgnl
10-02-2014, 03:21 AM
Re: dropping the rear cradle...I'm about to raise my car back up a bit for winter, and just wanted to be clear on a couple things before I dive back in. When I first installed the coilovers I removed the lower control arm bolt to change the springs (as was done originally in this fine tutorial). I'd like to try the cradle drop method as it seems easier, and have a few questions:

1. If I'm doing the left spring, I just remove the left side cradle bolts and leave the right side bolts tight (and vice versa)? Is there enough flex in the bushings?
2. Any rear alignment issues after messing with the cradle? I imagine if I'm leaving one set of bolts tight, nothing should move fore/aft/etc...
3. The lowering jack should be placed under the diff?

RobsSXT
10-02-2014, 05:25 PM
Re: dropping the rear cradle...I'm about to raise my car back up a bit for winter, and just wanted to be clear on a couple things before I dive back in. When I first installed the coilovers I removed the lower control arm bolt to change the springs (as was done originally in this fine tutorial). I'd like to try the cradle drop method as it seems easier, and have a few questions:

1. If I'm doing the left spring, I just remove the left side cradle bolts and leave the right side bolts tight (and vice versa)? Is there enough flex in the bushings?
2. Any rear alignment issues after messing with the cradle? I imagine if I'm leaving one set of bolts tight, nothing should move fore/aft/etc...
3. The lowering jack should be placed under the diff?

#1: Yes, thats works fine.
#2: No alignment issues. Everything lines up.
#3: I put my jack under the cradle near the side I'm working on.

sgnl
10-02-2014, 06:11 PM
#1: Yes, thats works fine.
#2: No alignment issues. Everything lines up.
#3: I put my jack under the cradle near the side I'm working on.

Right on, thanks. Do you still have the pic of your mag at max height? The link is broken in the OP. Right now I have the rear springs extended as high as they'll go without the BC supplied spacers, I'm wondering how high it'll be if I just throw the spacers in there without adjusting the screw. I was never really sure if one inch of spring adjustment equaled one inch of ride height...

RobsSXT
10-02-2014, 06:40 PM
Right on, thanks. Do you still have the pic of your mag at max height? The link is broken in the OP. Right now I have the rear springs extended as high as they'll go without the BC supplied spacers, I'm wondering how high it'll be if I just throw the spacers in there without adjusting the screw. I was never really sure if one inch of spring adjustment equaled one inch of ride height...

My set up at max height was basically stock height. For some reason, that one post won't allow me to edit it. But when I was testing the coilovers, when they sent me the final rear perches, it was stock height.

hemi05
01-12-2015, 11:33 AM
just did my install yesterday. other than stubborn bolts the install was rather easy. beans sent your way.

Rupert
04-09-2015, 04:03 PM
Q for anyone...With the pics missing from the begining of this awsome thread, I am not sure how to adjust the height...I have BC coilovers that I installed a couple years ago, and we got the height dialed in pretty good I have some instructions that I printed form here..., and I remember the instructions that came with it suck.. I just purchased new tires and rims, and they are shorter, about 1.5"in back and 1" in front. So I figure I should raise the car 1/2 the difference in the tires as a starting point. I think from reviewing this, bangin my head and reading some other threads that the fronts wont be an issue...just make sure 2-a and 2b ( top lock ring and spring tension adjustment are tight, and looosen the lower locking ring , then turn the top two rings, making the unit longer...IS THIS CORRECT? .....But I seem to remember taking the lower part of the strut completely loose and turning it...but not sure, maybe that was the back. The front seems to be the easier of the two. .

For the back Im gathering I need to adjust both the spring and the shock? I thought the spring was set and I only need to adjust the shock height by removing the bottom mouting point and releasing the lock ring and turning the shock, making it longer. Or do I have to make the adjustment on the spring as well and if so are they to be adjusted the sme amount each?

I intend on doing one side at a time and not dropping the cradle.

Maybe it will be cap't obvious once I get the car on the lift and see everythign....but I'd appreciatte some input.

Car is in sig

thanks

RobsSXT
04-09-2015, 06:42 PM
top lock ring and spring tension adjustment are tight, and looosen the lower locking ring , then turn the top two rings, making the unit longer...IS THIS CORRECT? .....


Kind of. Yes in the sense that you can use the two locked rings to move the shock body up and down by the virtue they are locked together and not moving the spring tension. Just keep in mind the top two locking nuts are ONLY for adjusting the pre-load of the springs (which should be set to ZERO).


But I seem to remember taking the lower part of the strut completely loose and turning it...


Yup, exactly. That will raise and lower.

To learn how to set the pre-load, watch this video. I just throw it in as an FYI.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlqOA35NmAw

To make the unit longer or shorter, you only loosen the LOWER locking ring, and thread the entire assembly up or down in the lower housing. Simple enough (I hope). Mine are so well lubricated and my threads are clean I can make my adjustments by hand.




I intend on doing one side at a time and not dropping the cradle.



Drop the cradle. I'm telling you right now, I've since learned it's the EASIEST and FASTEST way. Take the bolt out for the lower shock, then it's just TWO BOLTS to lower each side of the cradle. When I do mine, I only do one side at a time, I don't drop the entire cradle.

RIDE HEIGHT- I use a micrometer to measure. I'm that precise. A half inch shorter damper up front will lower your car a half inch. And in the rear, moving the spring perches up a half inch will lower the entire car a half inch. That half inch will bring the center arch of the wheel well down a half inch. It's all relative.

RobsSXT
04-09-2015, 07:01 PM
The post that shows how to adjust... EVERY TIME I try to edit it, the WYSIWYG editor is blank. There is simply nothing there. I've tried everything. I'll keep working on it.

netnathan
04-09-2015, 07:28 PM
Are these statements true??

The rear shock adjustment has nothing to do with adjusting the height, ONLY adjusting the rear spring does this.
The rear shock is only adjusted to center its stroke with the new spring height (to prevent bottoming out).

RobsSXT
04-09-2015, 07:31 PM
Are these statements true??

The rear shock adjustment has nothing to do with adjusting the height, ONLY adjusting the rear spring does this.
The rear shock is only adjusted to center its stroke with the new spring height (to prevent bottoming out).

Both true.

In my car, I don't use the BCR rear shock anymore. It was way too creaky, no matter how tight I made it (bottom bolt) it never got quiet. I have my stock rear chocks in, and I'm totally happy with them.

netnathan
04-09-2015, 07:44 PM
That is what I thought. I had this nightmare when I had mine installed. The shop was trying to tell me they had to adjust the rear shock to get the height correct.
I told them this was not right...they had essentially bottomed out the shock.
I had to show them some of the links on this site to show them how to adjust the rear correctly. They were not happy...they had to remove the cradle 6 times to get the rear height correct.

My car is also super tight up front....making me think they also messed with the preload. Can I adjust the preload with the shock mounted and the car up on jacks?

RobsSXT
04-09-2015, 08:04 PM
Yeah, I just adjusted mine yesterday.

Sent from my SM-N900T

Rupert
04-10-2015, 10:20 AM
Thanks RobSXT, others.

I am adjusting the raiseheight up, approx 1/2" in font and 3/4 inch in back, to accomodate shorter tires..

I don't think I need be concerned with preload on the front springs, I set that when I installed the package, please school me if I'm off on this.

Fronts are realtively simple, nothing needs to come apart, just clean the threads up and raise the car and use the two top locknuts to adjust the height, after loosening the bottom locknut. Im not adjusting the top, Im using the locknuts to turn the strut and increase the length.

Rears the bottom of the shock needs to be removed from its mounting point and the cradle droppped/ relieved so the perch height can be adjusted, then unlock and turn the shock to match the perch adjustment.

Is my thinking correct that in order to maintain the current height / stance I will start by adjusting the coilovers 1/2 the difference in tire height.

current tire (R) is 265/60/18...30.5"
New tire is 285/40/20...29.0

1.5" dif, however 1/2 the differnce is above the centerline/ mounting point of the tire...Make sense?

Fronts are currently 245/60/18.....29.6
new tire 245/45/20.....28.7

.9 inch so I will raise the front just on the tight side of 1/2"

I intend to make notes on the stance/ fender height withteh"old" tires so I can make the best adjustment the first time, and then removing them. I will make the adjustments then put the new tires on and drive away happy. The new nitto 420s tires have sticker residue and debris all over the tread and that has to come off ASAP. if you know what I mean.

RobsSXT
04-10-2015, 02:29 PM
That sticker residue will cause damage to one's self esteem and ego. When I have sticker residue and debris on my tires, I'm helpless because of my AWD V6. And I cry at night because it makes me sad.

sgnl
04-12-2015, 03:02 AM
In my car, I don't use the BCR rear shock anymore. It was way too creaky, no matter how tight I made it (bottom bolt) it never got quiet. I have my stock rear chocks in, and I'm totally happy with them.

Interesting! I always thought it was my rear swaybar bushings or end links creaking, as it only shows up when there's lots of travel on just one side or the other. I think I still have my stockers kicking around somewhere, I might have to give them a try. No issues with them being too long? Are you still riding as low as in post 4?

RobsSXT
04-13-2015, 12:01 AM
Are you still riding as low as in post 4?

Yeah, even lower now. My OEM shocks have been great. I even got machine washers to take out the very tiny tolerances and it still didn't help.

Rupert
04-13-2015, 10:17 AM
Installed my new tires and wheels sat. set height as indicated above inmy prev post. , based on new tire dia/.5...I measured and recorded fender height and added or subtracted differneces into the equation.
This didn't work very well. My new front tires are 1" shorter so I went up 1/2 inch on the srut adj. the car went up 1".. etc...I figured it out from there and got the RF height close to where i wanted it. I actually wanted to raise the car some, as I bottom out, espescally at the track. So then I did the RR and it was major PITA. I found my lower shock bolt bent, IDK why exactly, but I happened ot have a new spare bolt. so I set the shock to the new spring height, and I believe i got it dialed in.. LF , I spent alot of time getting it set exaclty as the RF, then when I got to the L/R it was sitting dead nuts on to the RR. I bounced all the corners etc ..no change. I had 1/8 tank of gas so I TQ all the lugnuts and went for a ride and filled up. Once the car was warm I got all the sticker residue off of the treads. Drove back to my shop, got out the tape measure and ...DAM there all different...LOL front s are within 1/4 inch, and rear just shy of 1/2 inch differnce. I think Ill lower the RR as its higher and i had so much fun workin on it.

I also found my printout of robs orig post, with all them pictures etc. AFTER I worked on the car... Thanks again for the help!

Yeah I know pics or ....

netnathan
04-13-2015, 11:26 AM
Regrettably....there is some "settle" to be accounted for in the adjustment. After driving, the springs seem to settle to a certain height.

beirutbob
05-26-2015, 02:44 PM
After over 100k miles on my 1st set of BCRs, I installed my second set this past weekend. To avoid dealing with the rear control arms and cradle, I tried using a Mercedes spring compressor tool off that I purchased off Ebay. Long story short, don't bother, pretty much a bust. The holes in the lower control arms are not wide enough for the threaded part of the tool to fit though without a bit of grinding. Once you get the tool to fit up inside the spring, it's damn near impossible to get the new springs to compress "straight" enough to fit back in. I fought with one side for about 3 hours (boy does time fly) and decided to just drop the control arm for the other side.

However, the tool does make it quite easier to adjust the rear spring height, so I guess it's not a total loss.

RobsSXT
05-26-2015, 04:35 PM
You bought all new suspension? Did you know these are rebuildable? You just need to order a cartridge.

beirutbob
05-27-2015, 09:23 AM
Yeah, I heard they were rebuildable. Between 4 winters and the high mileage, the parts were in pretty sad shape (especially the rear springs). I haven't disposed of the old parts yet, so I may look into at least rebuilding the shocks. Can you purchase the springs separately?

RobsSXT
05-27-2015, 09:59 AM
Just contact BCRacing America directly and you can order from them. When it's time for me, I'm going to get my springs powdercoated.

Sent from my SM-N900T

604_MIKE2
07-27-2015, 09:55 PM
Is anyone running the BCRacing coilovers on the 2nd gen AWD with 22's? I've been searching for a solid week and cant seem to find much on running this setup. Im getting very close to pulling the trigger on both wheels and coilovers but it would be nice to have some confirmation prior that there will be no MAJOR issues. I plan on running a 22 x8.5 or 9 deep with a +40 offset. Im guessing I will have to roll the fenders if I want to drop it more than an 1".

604_MIKE2
08-09-2015, 12:25 PM
Well, not a lot of action on here these days. So I went ahead and got the install done of my BC's and wheels yesterday. Looks great- however the shop didn't install my rear extenders. Pretty annoyed at that but oh well, does anyone have a photo they could post on where exactly the whole needs to be drilled in the truck of a 300c 2nd gen? I am thinking I can just drill my own whole and hook them up.

Im rubbing in the back on hard turns as well, I do love the stance in the back however I think Im going to have to raise it or roll the fenders. How much more room does rolling the fenders normally give? Does it raise the plastic liner as well? That is what Im hitting.

Cheers

atwong1
04-16-2016, 11:59 PM
Great writeup Rob!! Thanks.





EDIT AS OF SEPTEMBER 2014- I wrote this in late 2009. While nothing has changed in the install, I've had my suspension out a few times for cleaning (yes, I'm "that guy") and adjustments. The only change I made was how I do the rears. I remove the lower shock bolt and then the two bolts to drop the entire rear cradle on one side. It's MUCH easier, and MUCH quicker than how I did it the first time and shown here. Try it.

Here they are!


http://rotopax.com/automotive/kit.jpg




With that, lets get to the install.



Jack up your car and remove your wheel. Secure the jackstands and ensure you are working safely. I'd also take the removed wheel and put it under the car...

Don't tap on threads with a hammer to push these balljoints out. Use a puller. You can rent them for free at most quality auto parts stores.








http://rotopax.com/automotive/outer_tierod.jpg



Start by removing the outer tierod. Remove the bolt and use a puller to push it out. Don't tap the top with a hammer, you will damage the threads. Remove either the top or bottom of the stabilizer link. We remove the top. You'll also probably need a 3-jaw puller to push it out






http://rotopax.com/automotive/stabilizer_link.jpg



http://rotopax.com/automotive/lower_shock_assembly_1.jpg




Now we need to continue by removing the lower shock assembly. Start by removing this nut and the bolt that tightens down around the strut. Next, remove the bottom bolt from the lower shock assembly and the lower control arm.




http://rotopax.com/automotive/lower_shock_assembly_2.jpg




http://rotopax.com/automotive/lower_shock_assembly_3.jpg



With the outer tierod out of it's way, push the bolt out. You'll notice that the shaft is knurled just below the head. You can't twist it out, it has to be pushed out. Once the above steps are completed, you can pull down on the lower shock assembly and remove it from the car.



http://rotopax.com/automotive/lower_shock_assembly_4.jpg




http://rotopax.com/automotivent/upper_shock_assembly.jpg


The strut is now just being held in place by the three bolts up top on the strut tower. Have someone hold the shock to prevent it from falling out, then remove the three bolts. Your strut will now come out the bottom. Installation of the new strut is the reverse of removing it. Here is a photo of it installed.



http://rotopax.com/automotive/front_installed.jpg

DeanH132
08-23-2018, 08:24 PM
How low are you?