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DMAG
03-26-2005, 07:21 PM
This may or may not be of interest to anyone but it was a nice day and I thought I would add something to the knowledge base. This project was 1-1/2 hours start to finish which included taking photo’s. Part numbers are 82207811 (Hitch) and 82208643 (Receiver adapter). I did this myself but it would have been nice to have someone assist in lifting the hitch in place.

Remove the air dam. It will not be reused.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/1Small.jpg

It is necessary to lower the exhaust system 3 to 4 inches to mount the receiver. I positioned floor jacks to support the exhaust.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/2Small.jpg

Next you must remove 2 bolts that support the resonators. There are 2 hangers per resonator.
Drivers side furthest rear
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/3Small.jpg

Drivers side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/4Small.jpg

Passenger side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/5Small.jpg

Passenger side furthest rear
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/6Small.jpg

Release muffler from hangers. Spray with silicone and they easily slip out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/7Small.jpg

Removed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/8Small.jpg
The exhaust will now be able to lower 3 – 4 inches.

DMAG
03-26-2005, 07:21 PM
Be careful not to lower too far. The resonators make contact with body.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/9Small.jpg

The hitch is bolted to the frame using a total of 6 bolts (3 on each side). The frame has 3 nuts already installed.
Once the exhaust has been lowered you can slide the receiver in place from the rear of the car. You must start 1 bolt on each side to support the hitch while you install the other bolts.
It is necessary to install 3 nuts inside the frame rails. See pictures below.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/10Small.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/11Small.jpg

Drivers side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/12Small.jpg

Passenger side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/13Small.jpg

These 6 bolts are then tightened to 75 ft.-lbs

Reverse the process to re-hang the exhaust system.

The anti rotation tabs on the rear most exhaust attachments must be cut off. These parts are stamped for left and right.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/14Small.jpg

DMAG
03-26-2005, 07:21 PM
Completed photos
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/15Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/16Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/17Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/18Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/ferl/19Small.jpg

BlkHemiMag
03-29-2005, 11:21 PM
Good write-up, I see this mod in my future. thanks

zonian
04-29-2005, 08:26 AM
Nice "how to" DMAG, I see this in my future as well...these are the Mopars, correct?

Would it be possible to post a few more pics of rear and side views of the hitch & adapter installed? Having a hard time (in my ameoba brain) envisioning what this will look like...

Thanks,

Paul

zonian
04-29-2005, 08:43 AM
J,


Didn't realize there were two models of adapters...thanks. I think I would need an adapter that comes back up outside the skirt as well...I think straight out would be too low.

Can you post some pics of both? Side and rear 1/4 views? I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Paul

zonian
04-29-2005, 08:52 AM
Thanks much, that would be great!

Paul

redinorange
04-29-2005, 09:30 AM
I'm not sure if the credit for this "How to" goes to DMAG or digitalebola, but this should be used as a model for anyone that submits an article. Good, clear photos, outlined details of pertinent information, in order and spelled correctly.
Very nice job!

Ferl
04-29-2005, 11:42 AM
I'm not sure if the credit for this "How to" goes to DMAG or digitalebola, but this should be used as a model for anyone that submits an article. Good, clear photos, outlined details of pertinent information, in order and spelled correctly.
Very nice job!

Thanks for the compliment. The dumbest thing I did was not taking a photo of the hitch before the installation.

redinorange
04-29-2005, 01:07 PM
Thanks for the compliment. The dumbest thing I did was not taking a photo of the hitch before the installation.
Ferl, great job, man... Tell DMAG to put your name on there somewhere. Nice work.

Ferl
04-29-2005, 07:14 PM
When we changed to the new forum the original post info was lost. Just a casualty of the upgrade. I still can't believe I was 2s2pd to take a photo of the hitch before I installed the thing. Perhaps that will be my new tag.

2S2PD

zonian
05-04-2005, 11:52 AM
Thanks EB...what is the correct DC P/N for the adapter in the middle pic...this is the one that I'll need.

Regards,

Paul

zonian
05-04-2005, 03:16 PM
All set with the ball already...thank you again for the pics...,

Paul

duncan91
05-05-2005, 04:43 PM
The dealer also has a hitch with the same description and part number, except there is an (AB) at the end - 82207811(AB). What's up with that? Can either be used?

duncan91
05-05-2005, 05:19 PM
The adapter is $33.00, but the actual hitch is $215.00, which is the same as the one without the (AB). By the way, the dealer didn't know what it stood for either. He thought maybe Dodge may have changed the hitch manufacturer???

Vaderwagon
10-31-2005, 04:18 PM
Does the hitch in the install pics have a 2.00" opening or the 1.25" opening?

fnkychkn
10-31-2005, 04:50 PM
Does the hitch in the install pics have a 2.00" opening or the 1.25" opening?
that is a mopar hitch with a 2" receiver.

Vaderwagon
10-31-2005, 05:04 PM
Got it and thanks!!

Bill in NC
12-11-2005, 09:36 PM
This was a great "how to" article, it answered all my questions about this subject. Even price.

Tabasco
03-26-2006, 01:37 AM
Part Number?
I see that MPSC has a part number of 82209575 and that Lee's has a part number of 82207811. Are they both for the vertical hitch? I want to get one for my 2005 R/T but I want to make sure I'm getting the right item since shipping is going to hurt so bad.

The wiring harness part number is the same at both locations # 82209473 for the 4 way. But I see that MPSC "For use on models without production Fog Lamps" which confuses me. Lee's says nothing about fog lights. Why would that matter anyway?

For productions Fog Lamps am I supposed to get the 7 Way Round harness # 82208926? Lee's has this part but MPSC does not.

Any help would be great.

Robins_SXT
03-26-2006, 08:02 AM
I bought the P/N 82208926 7-way harness. This includes an electric brake controller. I haven't installed it yet but have a question. There's a mystery blue wire that the instructions have you route and wire tie to a harness behind the driver's kick panel. I'm thinking this needs to be connected to the brake switch. Others who had dealers install the harness have it balled up by the battery and not connected.

Here's a link to the thread with my detailed question: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=9318&highlight=trailer+wiring

fnkychkn
03-26-2006, 08:21 AM
AFAIK, chrysler does not sell electric brake controllers. the blue wire from the 7 pin harness gets routed to the driver's side kick panel where it is connected to the electric brake controller's brake output.

Robins_SXT
03-26-2006, 10:36 PM
Well, call it what you want but it puts power to the trailer brake circuit.

My car does not have the controller or the connector for the controler behind the kick panel. I assume any without factory tow package don't have the wiring either.

The instructions do not indicate to connect the blue wire to anything; just to route it.... I'll sort this out when I do the install.



AFAIK, chrysler does not sell electric brake controllers. the blue wire from the 7 pin harness gets routed to the driver's side kick panel where it is connected to the electric brake controller's brake output.

fnkychkn
03-26-2006, 11:05 PM
Well, call it what you want but it puts power to the trailer brake circuit.

My car does not have the controller or the connector for the controler behind the kick panel. I assume any without factory tow package don't have the wiring either.

The instructions do not indicate to connect the blue wire to anything; just to route it.... I'll sort this out when I do the install.

if you're not going to use a controller (no trailer brakes), you don't need to route the blue wire to the front. just tie-wrap it next to PDC in trunk.

thewagon
03-26-2006, 11:40 PM
The OEM wiring kit you bought is the same I have. Tow package or no tow package in your car, there was never a brake controller.
The blue wire from the harness is ONLY used to connect with the brake controller in the picture below (bought from a local parts store). Which does NOT come or is sold by DCX. If you don't have or use a trailer with brakes then simply ignore this wire.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/asrstech/brakecontroller.jpg




Well, call it what you want but it puts power to the trailer brake circuit.

My car does not have the controller or the connector for the controler behind the kick panel. I assume any without factory tow package don't have the wiring either.

The instructions do not indicate to connect the blue wire to anything; just to route it.... I'll sort this out when I do the install.

Robins_SXT
03-26-2006, 11:52 PM
if you're not going to use a controller (no trailer brakes), you don't need to route the blue wire to the front. just tie-wrap it next to PDC in trunk.

But I'm an engineer! Gotta have bells & whistles! "If it's working well then it don't have enough features"

Robins_SXT
03-26-2006, 11:59 PM
The OEM wiring kit you bought is the same I have. Tow package or no tow package in your car, there was never a brake controller.
The blue wire from the harness is ONLY used to connect with the brake controller in the picture below (bought from a local parts store). Which does NOT come or is sold by DCX. If you don't have or use a trailer with brakes then simply ignore this wire.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/asrstech/brakecontroller.jpg

Okay, I'm a novice w/respect to brake controllers. I'll sort out the purpose of the big freakin relay in the harness and the blue wire.

345hemi
03-29-2006, 01:53 PM
be careful which brake controler you use - electric "timed" controllers do not work as well as proportional controllers. I use a http://www.tekonsha.com/product1.html Prodigy in my Jeep and intend to install the same in the MAgnum. I pull a variety of trailers - the Jeep i pull a 24' Jeanneau Sailboat with surge brakes, a 5x10' utility trailer with surge brakes and a 17' Trail-lite Bantam travel trailer with electric brakes. The magnum has towed the utility traielr and this summer iw ill pull the travel trailer.

The problem with the timed controllers is that it takes a lot of adjustement to get to the right timing. by the time you need it either they are on hard or too late. with the proportional it has an accelerometer that detects the deceleration and applies appropriately. the advantage is that when you gear down ( not touching the brakes) the controller will gently apply.
having owned the timed controller, (a Reese unit) will never use anything other then a prodigy style!

hope this helps

quarky42
03-29-2006, 01:56 PM
That is great info, 345hemi! Thanks!

Jaak
03-29-2006, 02:51 PM
Thanks for the compliment. The dumbest thing I did was not taking a photo of the hitch before the installation.

Some things are so easy to fix!

I'm putting on mine tonight, with hemiwagn's help!

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/hitch/06pictures021.jpg

50-GUT
06-20-2006, 10:00 AM
Hey I just threw in the Mopar Hitch and 4-pin wiring harness over the weekend. I'm not that much of a mechanic, but this KB article held my hand all the way through! Great stuff fellas... Thanks HemiWagon.. Now I'm haulin' my bass boat to the river every eveneing! .. dodge dealers in my area (Northern Virginia) were giving me sucker install labor quotes for around $350!!!

Thanks Again!

50-GUT

quarky42
08-25-2006, 11:29 PM
I found out that the mounting hardware should include:
6 mounting bolds of the same length
3 nuts with those long tabs on them
2 other bolts to replace the exhaust hanger bolts ??? (I believe.)


The 2" hitch ball that is appropriate for the hitchball receptacle (82208642 Vertical Mounted Hitch) is the:
82401103 2" diameter ball, 1" diameter shank x 2-1/8" long shank, with wrench flats.

I found some websites confusing. The vertical mounted hitch receptacle uses a ball with a 1" diameter shank.

Anyone know why the Vertical receiver says it is only good for 2000 lbs and 200 lb tongue weight when the advertising materials say 3800 lbs? The vertical receiver could handle 2 tons standing on it and wouldn't have a problem pulling 2 tons. It's solid.

dkramer3
09-06-2006, 06:38 PM
My dealer says the rear fascia needs to be removed to do the wiring, can this be true!?!

ephines
09-06-2006, 06:51 PM
No sir they are wrong, a little patiecne and couple of jack stands , blocks, or bricks and you got it. Read the tread or the knowledge base it all there. Welcome to the club.

quarky42
09-06-2006, 08:17 PM
Absolutely not. The rear facia does *not* have to be removed. Your dealer is smoking crack. They wonder why we call them stealerships.

dkramer3
09-07-2006, 11:34 AM
Thanks guys, after I had already posted the question i found the VERY detailed thread for installing the harness. Now the dealer can go do whatever to themselves, i'll be doing this myself!

ephines
09-07-2006, 08:04 PM
Glad to help

Jeepers
09-07-2006, 10:09 PM
One of the things that made the hitch install much easier for me was cutting off the resonators. I didn't have to drop the exhaust and the hitch just slipped in between the pipes with no effort. An added bonus was the sweet sound of the hemi

dkramer3
09-10-2006, 02:42 PM
I found a custom shop which will be installing 20" Boss 304 wheels in Black Chrome with the Proxes ST's, K&N CAI, Borla 125 Cat-back, Eibach Pro springs and tint for the front windows; they agreed to install the Mopar hitch and harness at no additional charge :)

quarky42
09-10-2006, 10:10 PM
I found a custom shop which will be installing [Lots of stuff including exhaust and] they agreed to install the Mopar hitch and harness at no additional charge :)

I sure as heck hope they wouldn't charge you to slap in 6 bolts, tighten them to 80 foot pounds of torque, drill 2 holes in the rear of your car that are easy to get to, and connect a positive and negative lead to the battery that is already back there since they are going to already have the stock exhaust removed and the car lifted already. The other labor is like 30 minutes or less and since you are buying so many other installation services from them already... glad you got hooked up!

2005rtmag
09-10-2006, 10:23 PM
Thanks guys, after I had already posted the question i found the VERY detailed thread for installing the harness. Now the dealer can go do whatever to themselves, i'll be doing this myself!


Where did you find the wiring harness install thread? I still need to install mine.
Thanks!

quarky42
09-10-2006, 10:41 PM
Same category of threads in the knowledgebase as the hitch install:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=14463

stanekjp
09-27-2006, 06:07 PM
I did this install as well, on an AWD Magnum RT, nice writeup! I must have had a much more difficult time, I thought it was a real pain to get the hitch into position. Finding the angle to slide the hitch into position was the toughest part for me, and I dropped the drivers side resonator down below the bumper and I still had a hard time. I couldn't get the passenger side resonator to drop more than about 2 inches. That made it extremely difficult. I thought I would have to remove the exhaust entirely. Then by the sheer grace of god, I got the right angle and managed to jam it between the bumper and exhaust without any damage! That one step added about 2 hours to my install. Has anyone else with an AWD RT have similar difficulties?

stanekjp
09-27-2006, 06:10 PM
Also, I did find a better price ($176) for the hitch from wyckoffchrysler.com I'm local in North Jersey, so it made it a very easy decision to buy it from them and pick it up on the way home. Nice folks there at Wyckoff Chrysler!

quarky42
09-27-2006, 07:43 PM
The resonators have rubber hangers that you need to unclip. (I'm sure you unclipped those)

There is a second set of rubber hangers that you unclip just behind the resonators going towards the front of the car.

ALSO, there is a third set of rubber hangers that you should unclip (using some WD40 to make it easier to pop them on and off) that are just before you get to the suitcase muffler in the center of the car. If you unclip all three sets of rubber hangers your exhaust will drop a LOT. (OF COURSE: Make sure you have your cinder blocks or jack stands in place to catch your resonators so they don't come down too far and cause major problems.

I found that third set of hangers tricky to get back in. I put the first two sets in place loosely (tightened the bolts about half way). Then I WD40'd the rubber thingy again AND was finally able to get it in place by using a screw driver to give me enough leverage. Once I got out the screwdriver it was very easy.

I had no problems getting the hitch receiver in between the exhaust and the body. There was pleanty of room. If I hadn't dropped that third set of exhaust hangers by the suit case muffler it would have been a big pain in the asscheeks!.

bguild
04-13-2007, 02:32 PM
Isnt it funny how things work out on Friday the 13th.. I didnt realize you have to lower you exhaust to get the hitch--I guess I have never really thought about it.. My hitch is in route to be delivered today and next sat I pick up my new Bassani exhaust.. Anyway I guess I will wait till next week to pimp my ride. Then I can just take the exhaust complely off and then put the hitch on then install the new exhaust all at once. Thanks for the write up.. I love this forum.

roadki1
03-29-2008, 12:36 AM
I just got my hitch and used this guide, perfect. My only issue was how much of a pain it was to get to the bolts with the exhaust hanging in my face. Took me about an hour including searching for tools and this guide made it really go smoothly. Thanks.

MidnightSXT
07-10-2008, 02:05 AM
I know this thread is well over 3 years old but I have to add something. For you v6 guys running the mopar/borla dual exhaust system, the hangers that are welded to the rearmost resonators hit on the hitch. I just found this out as I did my hitch install lastnight. You`ll hear nothing but vibrations rattlling up thru the hitch into the frame. What did I do? I found some 1/2" rubber fuel line and cut two pieces 2 inches long. Slit them down the middle and wrap around the hanger, zip tie into place. Done NO exhaust rattling on hitch. NO interior noise.

ALS57
10-23-2008, 10:37 AM
Just to add:
I bought a second hand LX mopar hitch and when just about all finished fitting it I found that on the drivers side there was no hole for the rear tailpipe mounting arm bolt. Luckily I have a bench drill so just took it off again and drilled it out but just check you have all the right holes BOTH sides before fitting. I don't why mopar would make one without the hole unless some lx's don't have dual exhausts?

MidnightSXT
10-23-2008, 02:13 PM
unless some lx's don't have dual exhausts?
You`ve never seen an sxt or an se.....?

ALS57
10-30-2008, 06:31 AM
I've only ever seen one other magnum over here in the UK!

MidnightSXT
10-31-2008, 04:47 PM
I've only ever seen one other magnum over here in the UK!
My apology. Didnt know youre in the UK!! The V6 LX`s have a single exhaust only. When you say drivers side do you mean north american drivers side or UK drivers side, our passenger side? My hitch had all the proper holes in it for bolts. Maybe you got one made on a monday and the person doing the stamping was not quite sober...

txjeff
01-18-2009, 05:01 PM
I just bought a hitch to put in and thought I'd add info based on January 2009 prices and such.

I have a 2005 Magnum RT. Besides DMAG's info, this video of a Charger hitch install I'm sure will be helpful. I like the winch strap idea to hold the exhaust up, versus stands/blocks.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2007-dodge-charger.aspx

I have a pontoon boat to drag, which weighs around 1500 lbs. So I opted for a Class II hitch.
http://www.hidden-hitch.com/p-90339.html


I found one at hidden-hitch.com, Hidden Hitch PN 90339, for $152, and $6.95 for the ball 19258 and it comes with the drawbar, so it's not an extra fee as many other are another $30 for the drawbar.

So, the total bill was $160 with free shipping. This hitch differs a bit from the OEM Mopar one in that the Mopar one has a vertical receiver for the drawbar, versus the Hidden Hitch, which uses a more typical straight back horizonatal type receiver. Either one, I'm sure, is fine.

Then, I spent a bunch of time searching for a wiring kit, when I realized what a ripoff these were. Most were more than $60. So I went with a really simple $7 adapter from Walmart that I will hook up myself (not using a surge break controller. Just a simple 4 lead for signalling and braking). A pontoon boat, thankfully, is pretty light (1500 lbs) so I won't have any problem pulling it around.

fnkychkn
01-18-2009, 10:26 PM
Then, I spent a bunch of time searching for a wiring kit, when I realized what a ripoff these were. Most were more than $60. So I went with a really simple $7 adapter from Walmart that I will hook up myself (not using a surge break controller. Just a simple 4 lead for signalling and braking). A pontoon boat, thankfully, is pretty light (1500 lbs) so I won't have any problem pulling it around.
your simple $7 adapter from Walmart may end up costing you a $300 FCM. the turn and brake lamps are powered directly by the FCM. i doubt it can handle the extra load of trailer lamps. that's why they make a special harness for trailer tow applications. this harness uses the FCM's signal to trigger a relay for the trailer lamps. you might want to research this a little more before installing it.

good luck

txjeff
01-18-2009, 11:36 PM
your simple $7 adapter from Walmart may end up costing you a $300 FCM. the turn and brake lamps are powered directly by the FCM. i doubt it can handle the extra load of trailer lamps. that's why they make a special harness for trailer tow applications. this harness uses the FCM's signal to trigger a relay for the trailer lamps. you might want to research this a little more before installing it.

good luck

Ouch! Ok. I was assuming it was no worse than my 86 Thunderbird that I wired up the same way years ago. Now that I looked at it today, I also noticed that a '3 wire' hookup would be necessary since the signal lights are independent from the stop lights.

I found a kit that is $30 that I think will work. Scroll to the second one down, Part# 118176 $29.95. Tell me if you think that will work ok. Besides the 3 way wiring, it offers independent power. http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_accessories.htm

And it's half the price of the other harness, albeit it means splicing to the existing signal/brake wiring, which doesn't bother me.

Here's the wiring diagram of the module: http://www.accessconnect.com/taillight_converter.htm

fnkychkn
01-18-2009, 11:48 PM
Ouch! Ok. I was assuming it was no worse than my 86 Thunderbird that I wired up the same way years ago. Now that I looked at it today, I also noticed that a '3 wire' hookup would be necessary since the signal lights are independent from the stop lights.

I found a kit that is $30 that I think will work. Scroll to the second one down, Part# 118176 $29.95. Tell me if you think that will work ok. Besides the 3 way wiring, it offers independent power. http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_accessories.htm

And it's half the price of the other harness, albeit it means splicing to the existing signal/brake wiring, which doesn't bother me.

Here's the wiring diagram of the module: http://www.accessconnect.com/taillight_converter.htm
yup, that'll work. any unit that isolates the vehicle's circuits from the trailer's circuits should be OK.

txjeff
01-19-2009, 12:01 AM
Thank you, as always, almighty chicken! Yeah, I feel that it will work fine as well. And I already have an inline fuse to hookup at the rear battery area. It's times like this that I wish I had a pickup!

txjeff
02-02-2009, 12:23 AM
The install:

Hidden Hitch ~$160. Magnum RT.

I printed out Dmag's pictures as a general guide, and I watched a video online of a Charger getting a similar hitch installed at a shop.

It was a rather difficult experience allowing me to just catch the beginning of the Super Bowl. Mostly because I'm so out of practice with this kind of work, and I am ill equipped with the appropriate tools.

I tried to take a short cut and back up over my drainage ditch from the driveway, and my neighbor's ditch, just to find that I still couldn't get at the center of the car where the exhaust clamps are.
Ultimately, after wasting an hour, and trying some other methods (because I didn't have ramps), I wound up borrowing my neighbors jack stands. I had to tear everything out of the rear to get the jack out. I then realized, since I never used it before, it was all jammed together, and I had to take a hammer to break apart the wrench handle from the jack, and it was so stiff from the way it's made, I had to take pliers and pull the socket part out and then oil it to make it useful. I'm glad I had to do this because I never would have got it working if I was stuck on the side of the road without pliers.

So, after jacking each side of the car up, and putting a jack stand in place on each side of the rear axle, I finally had it ready to be worked on (and stopped for a bite to eat at around 1:15 pm).

Next, I started to take off the various components. No prob with the rear ones near the tailpipes, but the center ones were a pain. Of course, using jack stands only made it a bear to access the center hangers. I ultimately, after lubing with WD40, used a pry bar to pop the rubber off the hangers.

Then, I see that there are 3 existing bolts already at the hitch area. I realized these were left there when the previous hitch was removed when I bought the car (boo!). So, I decided to try to take the nut off and fish the bolt out through the large hole. But the stupid bolt fell toward the front of the car, inside the channel. Doh! So I tried fishing it out with a stiff piece of wire. No luck. Then I taped a magnet to a piece of wire, and tried to fish it out. No luck. So I had to abandon it inside the channel and pray that it doesn't rattle too much (sigh). I decided to leave the other two bolts, on the other side in place and use them. This wasted another 30 minutes.

Next, I had my neighbor place the hitch on my gut as I lay under the car. And he got under as well as we easily put the hitch in place and got a bolt in on each side. Then we got the rest bolted up. I only had a 3/8" ratchet kit, but my neighbor had a 1/2" ratchet, and that helped to get some extra ft/lbs to tighten the bolts.

The next step was to figure out how to get the hangers hooked back up in the center of the car. I fooled around for around 15 minutes, but found that the muffler was too low to make it easy, and I couldn't get a good enough grip on it to put it on. Being only 175 lbs, I really didn't have the edge that my 200+ lb neighbor had. So he crawled in underneath farther than I did, and we got a 1 foot piece of 2 x 4 to wedge the tail pipes up close to where the belonged. My neighbor then muscled his way in and shoved the muffler up and was able, with at fork tool, to pry the rubber onto and over the hanger nipple. And he fought even harder with the second one. It was quite an effort on his part to get them on. I really think it's foolish to do this without having the car on a lift, or being in a pit under the car. It's so much easier to get at everything that way.

Putting the last bolts on the tailpipe went smoothly. And, btw, I left the end hanger on, where Dmag's instructions showed to discard it with the OEM hitch. And I didn't have to file the anti-rotation piece off of the hanger either.

So, I figure 2 hours of wasted time, and 3 hours of actual effort to get the hitch on.

If I had to do it again, I'd gladly pay a mechanic $100 -$150 to do it, unless I had access to a lift.

MidnightSXT
02-02-2009, 02:44 AM
spend the money on the factory harness you wont be sorry. For a few buck extra get the 7 pin setup. im glad I did.

txjeff
02-02-2009, 08:12 AM
spend the money on the factory harness you wont be sorry. For a few buck extra get the 7 pin setup. im glad I did.

I appreciate that thought. I already have the one in the link below, and I only need to run a couple of wires to the battery now in the rear with an inline fuse. If I have an issue with it, I'll go the other way. Most comments I've read at the sites that sell it are that it is a good one.

http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer...ccessories.htm (http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_accessories.htm)

magnumpi1
03-09-2009, 09:23 PM
thanks for the info i'v been looking for such a hitch.

James Bruce
04-24-2009, 02:21 PM
I installed my factory Mopar hitch the other day. Really simple. The ramps I bought back in 1979 have really come in handy over the years. Backed the Mag onto the ramps and had plenty of room to remove the exh supports and set exh on jackstands. Driver side has ball joint at rear of muff or cat that allows it to be dropped quite a bit. I used a small C clamp to get the rubber exh thingys off. Worked very well.
Wifey got under the drivers side (no pics) and me under pass side then lifted pass side up first and it went right in. Cut tabs off resonator hangers with Dremel and bolted everything back up.
The hitch has a lot of play once pinned into the receiver. This is important in my application which is a large bike rack. Don't want bikes bouncing around back there. A piece of 0.1" Al works great as a shim.
Thanks to Grapevine (Tx) Dodge for their 10% discount for DFWLx club members.

scavo1
08-21-2009, 08:52 PM
I bought an aftermarket hitch, the bolts that came with seem to be to large in diameter. Does anyone know what thread size the welded nuts are?

txjeff
08-21-2009, 11:37 PM
I bought an aftermarket hitch, the bolts that came with seem to be to large in diameter. Does anyone know what thread size the welded nuts are?
I think they are pretty standard threads, like 9/16 or something. Er, welded nuts? I had the nuts with the "tangs" on them that you fed through an adjacent hole and held onto the tang. I think one of the holes was threaded though, but it had the same threading as the bolts/nuts supplied from what I remember. Give a call to Hitches Etc
8395 HWY. 80 WEST
FORT WORTH, TX 76116
(817) 560-0150
They should be able to tell you.