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View Full Version : Axle install.....also applies to swapping 6.1 rear into 5.7



Hemi31
04-28-2008, 10:07 AM
I don't have any pics yet, but as soon as the next install comes in I will get them.

Tools Needed:

Strong 3/8" Ratchet and breaker bar
21mm short socket
18mm short socket
15 mm deep socket
13mm deep socket
1 1/4" socket and 1/2" ratchet for axle nut
18" 3/8 drive extension
3/8 drive swivel
12 point 3/8" socket,3/8 drive
5/16" allen key or socket
18mm box wrench
T-60 Torx socket
large flat blade screwdriver or small prybar.
small flat blade screwdriver
small hammer
small piece of soft pine.
4 Jack stands and a good Jack......2-3 ton is preferable.


OK.......take a deep breath cause it's not as scary as it looks....a second set of hands is helpful....but not imperative.

Start by getting the car in the air.I like to put the first two jack stands in the rear pockets on the rocker panels.Get it up as high as possible.
Next the exhaust needs to come off(in one piece).Loosen the forward clamps,remove the center brace,use a little wd-40 on the center rubbers and pry them off the exhaust hooks,then remove the four 13mm bolts holding the rear hangers while someone holds the tips up.If your by your self you can let them down.....just put some cardboard under the tips and polished parts.
Now wiggle the exhaust back and forth till it slides off the cat pipes and pull it out from under the car and out of the way.

Ok.......get the rear wheels off.Set the E-Brake.Using the 1 1/4 socket remove the axle nuts.
Now jack up the control arms slowly so they are horizontal to the ground and stick the jackstands under them.....this needs to be done to make room for the axles to swing.

Put the transmission in neutral so you can turn the driveshaft.Release E-brake.

So now that your completely committed(or should be)......grab the T-60 Torx and the 18mm box wrench and take out the four driveshaft bolts on the differential side of the yolk(silver ones).....you will need to pry the driveshaft back from the pinion.Move the shaft out of the way.
Place the jack under the differential and bring the pad up so it just makes contact.
Using the 5/16 allen socket remove the allen bolt from the front of the differential.
Now get the 21mm ratchet and the breaker bar.The two remaining bolts are in the cradle right in front of the spare tire well......there is only enough room to barely get the ratchet in.You need to take 3-4 pulls and switch sides......work it back and forth like this walking the diferential forward till both bolts are out(this is the biggest PITA both removal and replacement).
Once the differential is free you want to lower the jack slowly,The differential will want to go forward as it goes down so walk the jack with it.Stop the jack about halfway down.You should now be ready to use the prybar to pop the axle out of the differential.You only need to move it about a half inch with the prybar.pry on the axle flange not the seal flange.Do the drivers side first.Once the axle is sliding freely you need to wiggle the differential around till you can move the axle out far enough to angle completely out of the differential,then slide it out of the hub.Now you can do the passanger side easily.
Lower the differential to the floor.


If you are installing heavy duty halfshafts see note 1.
Now......if your doing DSS halfshafts and need to change the tone rings see note 2.

Installation:Check differential seals,replace if necessary.
EDIT:This is important and I just ran into it.Get a micrometer or dial caliper and check the dimensions of the old axle to the new axle.I ran into an issue with the machining being off a couple of thousandths on a set of 5.7 HD axles.It wasn't much but it kept them from going in the differential.


(Read this if doing 5.7/6.1 swap:You must grind down the side of the emergency brake cable braket flush with the ridge on the knuckle or the CV loint won't clear.)
Slide halfshafts into the hubs(Oil or anti-sieze the splines) and install and tighten axle nuts.(157 LbFt)Remember,left side is short.


Raise the differential to the removal height.Oil the Splines and slide the passanger side axle into the differential and seat it.Carefully work the drivers side axle in(watch the seal) and raise the jack till axle is all the way in.Make sure it's seated.

Raise the differential back into position and carefully get the 21mm bolts started(I use antiseze here).Make sure you don't cross thread these.....if your unsure STOP!!

Tighten the 21mm bolts(162 lbft) and then replace the allen bolt(48lbft)
Next reinstall the driveshaft and tighten bolts(43lbft)
remove the jackstands under the control arms.
Slide the exhaust back under the car.Hold the front of the system up and put the brace back on......this will help if your alone.I will use a strap and tie the rear of the exhaust up so I can get it back on the cat pips......once in place put the center rubbers back on the pipes,remove strap,then install the 4 rear mounts,and finally retighten the forward clamps.
Put your wheels back on and let the car down.



Note 1:
_______

Replacing the hubs for heavy duty halfshafts:
Make sure you have the studs pressed into the hubs before installation on car.

While the axles are out of the car using an 18mm socket remove the caliper and hang out of the way with wire.Remove the rotor.Using the 18" extension,12point 3/8" socket and swivel remove the four bolts holding the hub on from the backside of the knuckle.......remove stock hub and replace with heavy duty hub.Reinstall bolts and torque to 50 lbft.
Reinstall rotor and caliper.(70lbft)

Note 2:
______

If installing DSS halfshafts you will need to transfer the tone rings from your stock halfshafts.

This is not difficult but you need to be very careful as replacement Tone rings are not available and you will be buying another axle to get one!

Do this one shaft at a time and do not mix up sides.The driver side shaft is the shorter of the two.

Make a note of where the ring seats on the old shaft.....notice there is a small gap.....make sure you match that on the new shaft.....if it's off you'll get codes.

Using a small flat blade screwdriver pry gently on the ring working slowly around a little at a time till it pops off......be very careful not to damage the magnetic material....Or you will get codes.

Place it on the new shaft and work it on with your fingers slowly till you can't get it any further.From there I use a small hammer and a piece of very soft pine and tap it evenly around the ring till it is seated.......again....be very careful not to damage the ring......or you will get codes.


Note 3:If installing 6.1 rear into 5.7 then you will need to swap the rear of the driveshaft......which is as simple as sliding the old off and the new 6.1 on.Line up the spline ans it goes right on.

Note 4:Check the axle splines and sleeves with a micrometer or dial caliper to make sure they are the same size.

Good Luck and hope this helps.

Jaak
05-17-2008, 10:55 PM
Yes, Erik, it helps a lot and Token, Hemiwagn and I used it as a guide today, thanks!

Nuts on the upgraded axles I have are a different size than the stock ones, so I'll need to pick up what appears to be a 36 mm socket to torque them.

Brake caliper torque spec for the SRT8 is 96 ft-lbs according to the 06 LX service manual.

I don't have a press, so I pulled the studs in by tightening the nuts through a wheel. Lube them well before doing this and walk go around all five in steps to pull them as straight as possible.

Diff oil according to the service manual is Mopar Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant 75W- 140. You won't spill any. But have some handy for what you do spill. ;-)

The 21 mm bolts, if you have two 21 mm sockets and ratchets, just leave them on when you pull the diff, it's easier to switch back and forth, or if you have help, you can both loosen and tighten at the same time.

The allen bolt on the front of the diff, may have the part with the nut in it, spin. If you can't get the weight of the diff to pull down enough to stop it from spinning, you can pry down on the diff with the 21mm's loose to put enough pressure on it.

Erik, your guide is fantastic and we referenced it many times.

Again, thanks!

Definately Beans....

Jaak
05-17-2008, 10:57 PM
Oh, and we screwed up and didn't take pictures either, except for Hemiwagn at the very end... Oops.

The Corsa exhaust was a bit easier, we disconnected each pipe just in front of the diff, so the cross brace and muffler didn't have to be moved.

Diff seals are cheap, just do them. It's easy.

We did the DSS half shafts, so we did it all...

razman131
05-18-2008, 02:35 AM
the Aug 08 MOPAR Action (09 Chally on cover) has a pretty indepth article about swapping out the rear axels on a MSRT8 using new parts from The Driveshaft Shop (DSS).

wonder if it was yall they profiled in that article???

STAGE 3 R/T
05-18-2008, 03:06 AM
Dayum great right up Erik!!!

fnkychkn
05-18-2008, 09:19 AM
great write up, Erik.
i'd like to add that you should chock the front wheels before lifting the rear off the ground.

Jaak
05-19-2008, 07:51 AM
I emailed the Drive Shaft Shop on the axle nut torque spec. Damn, I need another torque wrench! I also asked about the dust cover over the seal, since theirs doesn't have one.


Hi
the nut should be torque 250lbs, as for the tin shield please leave it off as they come loose and rattle under the car.

Jaak
05-19-2008, 04:42 PM
Since I don't have a torque wrench for 250 ft/lbs ( and I truly wonder if that's necessary ) think the stock torque spec of 157 ft/lbs is fine?

Jaak
05-19-2008, 06:59 PM
Since I don't have a torque wrench for 250 ft/lbs ( and I truly wonder if that's necessary ) think the stock torque spec of 157 ft/lbs is fine?

Tried it. ROTFLMFAO!!!! Not a chance. Took it up higher with breaker bar. You can definately feel when it's stopped tightening and 157 isn't it.

Used the old calibrated hand, but kept it shy of 250 by a bit, I'm sure.

Hemi31
05-19-2008, 07:03 PM
Jaak I put them on with a 300lb ft Impact gun.

Jaak
05-19-2008, 08:02 PM
I believe it. They need it. Thanks Erik!

Cam
05-19-2008, 08:17 PM
Great write-up E.

Hey Jack and who ever else: If you take a 21mm 1/2" drive shallow socket and cut or grind it down to the point that the depth of the socket is equal to the thickness of the head of the bolt. It works like a champ and you can get it in and out. Also, I purchased a 14mm X 1.5mm tap for running the threads in the housing. Makes it ten times easier to install the bolts.

madmanadam
02-23-2009, 03:39 PM
Hats off to the ones that change these at the track or by themselves. Thanks for the write up!:not_worth
http://www.chargerforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=9742&size=1

Is my tone ring broke?
This how it came out.
Is it best to do one side at a time?
This has not been one of fun mods but a pain for me.
Has anyone done this on a lift?

Hemi31
02-23-2009, 03:56 PM
Tone ring looks fine.When you reinstall them put the pass side axle in first then the drivers.

madmanadam
02-23-2009, 04:07 PM
first off thanks,
Could you tell me if the tone ring came in two pieces? or is the thin ring the ring?

torRed #1169
02-23-2009, 06:57 PM
That thin ring just hanging there is NOT the tone ring.

Tone ring is behind it still on the shaft.
1/2 inch wide in the picture.
It has little notches on it.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x232/chrisjnc/feb09_040.jpg

Hemi31
02-23-2009, 07:03 PM
^^^^^^ the tone ring is the ring that feels like a refrigerator magnet.

madmanadam
02-24-2009, 02:14 PM
Thanks, still trying to get the little buggers off. Boy will I be glad when I'm done. not the funnest mod.

madmanadam
02-25-2009, 08:52 AM
I got the rings off, but I have a question on what to do with the thin washer thing that will not fit over the new shaft. Do I need this?
Thanks

Hemi31
02-26-2009, 01:58 PM
I got the rings off, but I have a question on what to do with the thin washer thing that will not fit over the new shaft. Do I need this?
Thanks
The thin washer does not get used with the 1000hp axles.

PaCharger
02-28-2009, 04:36 PM
So for my 3rd install, i decided to pick up a $6 3/8 gearless drive ratchet - THAT was the right tool for the two bolts back on the frame. Holy smokes it was just sooo much easier - really didnt even have to go back and forth between the bolts btw.

Great right up Erik - never saw it till I came home to double check some tq specs....by now I should have this memorized! Oh well, time to out and enjoy the new toys for a drive :)

madmanadam
03-02-2009, 09:01 AM
All done, went pretty well. removing was a issue, had a battle with the bottom side of the trunk. Them little tabs that point down and the bolts from my bottle had a issue with my head being there, I now have 2 staples in my head and blood on the floor.

Great write up Erik and thanks for the reply's.

Adam:beerchug::modding:

rodneyiii
04-05-2009, 09:44 PM
Yep, I finally got my rear end changed out to an SRT diff and axles. I got the setup from 03HDFB who has an '08 Challenger. It took me and a friend about 6 hrs in my garage to do the swap. We took our time and he had to keep an eye on his 2 year old while we worked.

Rather than using jack stands, I put all 4 wheels up on ramps so the suspension would stay compressed. I just popped the center cap out of the rear wheels and removed the axle nut to get the axles out. I used this write-up to guide me through the swap. The whole thread had great info about the tools needed (socket sizes, types, torques, etc.) to do the job.http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif

The car definitely has more grunt off the line and will spin the tires effortlessly. I just need to get to the track to see what the numbers say.

1fastsedan
04-11-2009, 11:53 AM
For those that have swapped hubs while doing axles, the hub bolts require an E (external Torx) socket, right? At least Cam's did (but only God knows if those are the original bolts or not on his car :wink:). What size E socket do you need? Thanks.

torRed #1169
04-11-2009, 12:09 PM
I think you can use a 12 point 3/8 socket.

I have to double check but I'm pretty sure.......Eric can confirm.

1fastsedan
04-11-2009, 02:41 PM
I know that you can use a 12-point 3/8 socket, but I'd like to get the correct E socket in case something ever goes wrong and I need to change them again.

1fastsedan
04-28-2009, 11:35 AM
Did the job yesterday. The correct tool to remove the hub bolts is an E12 socket. Thanks for the good write up Erik!

Someguy
05-01-2009, 12:36 AM
i just finished doing mine. and this is not for the faint of heart. im a heavy duty mechanic by trade. and even i officially vowed, to never do any more work on this car, that requires me lying on my back in the garage. definitely used up every swear word i know, and even created a few new ones.

the one thing i didnt like about these axles. is it doesnt seem like they clip into the diff properly. you can just pull them out by hand. but on the stock axles, you need to use a pry bar to get them out of the diff. i even looked inside, from the opposite side that did not have an axle installed yet. and the new axle was pressed up against that bar in the center of the diff. so the axles could not go in any farther. i know that there is no way, the axles could just pop out while driving. but it is still a bit weird.

wbglider
05-01-2009, 12:48 AM
Excellant write up Erik, & congrats Adam on the successful shafting... maybe you can give me a hand with my getrag install?

prican_2000
05-01-2009, 01:25 PM
AWESOME WRITE-UP!

Will come in really handy whenever I get my hands on an SRT8 Rear end.

THANKS

Junior
06-02-2009, 06:43 PM
Bump for awesome.

Cam
06-02-2009, 06:44 PM
Bump for awesome.

Suck up ^^ :roll:

Junior
06-02-2009, 06:45 PM
^^ He is kinda cuddly. :mrgreen:

sergeo'shemi
06-02-2009, 09:01 PM
thanks for the write up

Hemi31
06-02-2009, 09:01 PM
^^ He is kinda cuddly. :mrgreen:Ok....thats just wrong:doh:

Junior
06-09-2009, 06:58 PM
I think I'll be tearing into this on Sunday. :thumbs_u:

If I'm swapping pumpkins but not halfshafts, you mentioned in my other thread that I should leave the shafts in the hubs, and just swing the pumpkin down like you describe here? I assume I still need to remove the rear axle nuts so they can travel some, but maybe leave the nuts on the ends? Or what keeps the halfshafts from wanting to fall out of the hubs once they're not in the pumpkin?

Hemi31
06-09-2009, 07:02 PM
you don't need to touch the axle nuts Mike.....the biggest thing is to keep the full weight of the car on the control arms so they are level.....this will give you extra clearance to swing the axles,and that will give you more room to work them out of and into the differential.

Junior
06-09-2009, 07:04 PM
you don't need to touch the axle nuts Mike.....the biggest thing is to keep the full weight of the car on the control arms so they are level.....this will give you extra clearance to swing the axles,and that will give you more room to work them out of and into the differential.

OH! Bitchin'. So I could back up onto ramps, leave the wheels on, and go from there, eh?

Assuming I can back up onto ramps. :)

Hemi31
06-09-2009, 07:06 PM
Actually if you have tall ramps thats a good way......don't try to work around the exhaust....just remove it.

Junior
06-09-2009, 07:06 PM
Awesome. Thanks Erik.

Junior
06-11-2009, 10:17 PM
Well, I couldn't wait until Sunday, but I might need a ride to work tomorrow. :mrgreen:

I've got the pumpkin lowered, but I was unsure of where to pry to get the axles to release. There's the stamped metal shield on the pumpkin, and inside of that, there's a softer stamped metal shield on the axle. Do I pry in between those two?

I've seen removed axles with that axle shield bent up, so I'm guessing that's par for the course?

Are those two what you refer to as the seal flange and the axle flange?

torRed #1169
06-11-2009, 10:34 PM
Pry between the stamped metal shield on the pumpkin, and the softer stamped metal shield on the axle.

You will most likely bend the protective dust shield on the axle.

Junior
06-11-2009, 11:04 PM
OK, will do - thanks man.

I'm gonna wrap it up for the evening - light's getting too low. Not a job to do on a Thursday after work in the driveway, but so far so good!

One thing to add to the discussion is to be careful not to back one of the two 21mm bolts too far out ahead of the other one - especially if you're using the gearless ratchet - since you have to remove it to reverse it, the potential to get it absolutely stuck is fairly high. You could back it right into the underside of the spare tire well, and not be able to do a damn thing about it. To get out of that, you'd have to have another working set to put on the other bolt to make some slack for the first one. Luckily this didn't happen to me, but there was a point I thought it had, and I was cursing myself pretty good. :mrgreen:

Also, the only 3/8" drive 21mm socket I could find locally was a deep socket, so I used Cam's idea of cutting it down so it was only deep enough for the bolt. Nice idea there.

And I couldn't find a 14mm male hex socket or Allen key for the plugs, but I had some straight 14mm hex stock left over from something else, so I cut about an inch off of that, and used a ratcheting box-end to turn it. That worked great too.

torRed #1169
06-11-2009, 11:57 PM
Yeah...believe it or not the hardest part of going this is having the right tools before you start.

On my 3rd time dropping the differential I had 2 ratchets with 21mm socket. One 3/8 and one 1/2 inch. Both going at the same time.

:)
Good luck.

Oh and Erik is still the Man!

concussion
06-12-2009, 12:14 AM
I'll be doing this swap (R/T to SRT pre '09) as soon as I pick up my half shafts and new seals.

Thanks for the write up.

stitchmonkey
06-12-2009, 02:01 AM
I'll be doing this swap (R/T to SRT pre '09) as soon as I pick up my half shafts and new seals.

Thanks for the write up.

I got my parts sitting in the garage waiting for when I get back from LX&B, I'm still a little hazy on the tone rings and what they look like

Junior
06-12-2009, 02:49 AM
I got my parts sitting in the garage waiting for when I get back from LX&B, I'm still a little hazy on the tone rings and what they look like

That I can help with, from having taken the hubs and knuckles off... They're on the part of the halfshaft that fits inside the knuckle. Like Erik said, they look and feel like the same material as refrigerator magnets. They shouldn't come loose when you remove the halfshaft - you'll have to carefully pry them off. That part I've never done, so others can fill you in on that.


That thin ring just hanging there is NOT the tone ring.

Tone ring is behind it still on the shaft.
1/2 inch wide in the picture.
It has little notches on it.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x232/chrisjnc/feb09_040.jpg

stitchmonkey
06-12-2009, 02:13 PM
That I can help with, from having taken the hubs and knuckles off... They're on the part of the halfshaft that fits inside the knuckle. Like Erik said, they look and feel like the same material as refrigerator magnets. They shouldn't come loose when you remove the halfshaft - you'll have to carefully pry them off. That part I've never done, so others can fill you in on that.


Thanks!

Junior
06-12-2009, 05:13 PM
How important are new circlips for reassembly, if you're using your original halfshafts?

torRed #1169
06-13-2009, 01:47 AM
I reused the old ones and no issues.

Black08Chally
04-11-2010, 03:51 PM
I've got my 8.8 sitting here, still waiting delivery on the driveshaft however. I have been surveying the job trying to get all my tools sorted out and was coming up short on a 3/8" drive 21mm socket, even in the land of metric up here. I had bought some cheap 1/2" drive 21mm sockets to mod per earlier instructions and even doing that, a 1/2" ratchet driver is so much bigger for clearance issues. I looked at a metric/standard conversion chart and saw that 13/16" was darn close to 21mm and there is usually a bit of extra room built in I gave it a shot......BINGO!!!! a 3/8" drive 13/16" socket fits really nice on the 21mm bolt and is quite compact as well. I'll report back once I complete the install.

monty1269
05-13-2010, 05:31 PM
Gonna be printing this out when we swap my '05 Mag RT rear for an '09 Chally RT rear end.....

Any additional words of wisdom .... ??

Hemi31
05-13-2010, 05:34 PM
Get a second set of hands:mrgreen:

SublimeTime
05-13-2010, 06:22 PM
As trivial as it may seem, make sure you have your Predator handy when the install is complete as you have to change the rear gear ratio or you will end up in limp mode. Good Luck.

novawagonmaster
05-21-2010, 12:03 AM
On my 3rd time dropping the differential I had 2 ratchets with 21mm socket. One 3/8 and one 1/2 inch. Both going at the same time.


That sounds like a good option to me. I'm swapping in a Getrag this weekend. After reading this thread and taking a look under the car in preparation, I took a trip to my local Sears and grabbed a pair of 3/8-drive 21mm deep sockets (they did not stock a shallow 21). I went home and took a cutoff wheel to both of them. I figure going at it with two ratchets and sockets will be easier than one. I'll report back this weekend with any new info.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo42/novawagonmaster/Car%20pics/2010%20Challenger%20TA/Mods/Getrag/DiffSockets008.jpg

Junior
05-21-2010, 12:13 AM
^^^ HA! Mine looks *exactly* like that.

novawagonmaster
05-22-2010, 10:18 PM
Getrag install was a piece of cake. I only swapped the differential and axles, and added the infamous pink bolts. The driveshaft bolted up just fine, but I am going to upgrade that parts ery soon. The coupler does not mate properly with the differential (the three sleeves in the coupler do not sit flush in the holes of the diff flange). This puts the entire load on the bolts instead of the coupler and its sleeves, and explains why some guys are making pretzels out of the bolts.

Now I just need to find out if I need just the rear coupler or a whole or partial driveshaft.

Also, while the job can be done without two 21mm sockets (see my last entry a couple posts up^^^), it did make it just a little easier. I say, if you have two, go for it, but you don't need to run out and get another if you only have one.


Sorry I did not take pics. The job went very quickly and I just did not think to grab the camera (even though I had it with me). The whole job took about an hour and a half.

I also need to thank InferAl for stopping by to lend a hand today. While this job can definitely be done flying solo, it always helps to have another pair of hands to help out.:beerchug:

Cam
05-22-2010, 10:39 PM
Jon, yours didn't already have one??. What was in it then?

novawagonmaster
05-22-2010, 10:49 PM
Jon, yours didn't already have one??. What was in it then?

3.06 iron 215mm
This is the White 2010 R/T auto.


My Black 2009 R/T 6-speed had a 3.92 Getrag.

Cam
05-22-2010, 10:51 PM
3.06 iron 215mm
This is the White 2010 R/T auto.


My Black 2009 R/T 6-speed had a 3.92 Getrag.


Damn, I thought the R/T would come with a the LS now. Guess I should bone up on my Challenger facts. Thanks.

novawagonmaster
05-22-2010, 11:02 PM
Damn, I thought the R/T would come with a the LS now.

That was tops on my b!tch list when filling out the survey for this car.
If not standard, at least make it an option.

ydahsmils2001
09-02-2010, 10:37 AM
Quick question, Can I follow this write-up to install my BB unlimted halfshafts on my 2008 SRT8?

Hemi31
09-02-2010, 10:51 AM
Yes you can.

ydahsmils2001
09-02-2010, 02:46 PM
Thanks

DreamWeaver
10-30-2010, 02:50 PM
im doing a 5.7 to 6.1 swap. any idea where i can find the rear of the driveshaft and how much?

HemiSam
11-08-2010, 04:40 PM
Great thread!

HemiSam

Sector 2
11-20-2010, 05:34 AM
I got a Getrag LSD 3.06 complete kit.... Going into an RT...Is this pretty much the same install. I have friend coming over to help me do the install. Won't be paid off until Jan '11 as it is on layaway w/ Speedlogix (great program by the way...no need to run up credit card bills) I saw pretty good write up (referred to me by Big Boy) on a Getrag install on a 3.5L. Any other good photo/pictorials/tutorials you would recommend? Manuals?

HemiSam
11-20-2010, 08:52 AM
I'll be wrapping up mine today on a Challenger. It's the Getrag. Observations from my end is the bolt at the front of the diff that goes up vertically through the diff and into the cross member (isolator bushing)...mine was a 15mm 6 sided. Unfortunately, it just spun on mine instead of the nut catching in what I assume is a channel up in the cross member. Had to get my hand up in there....not easy especially if someone has big hands and try to pin the nut down with one finger....took forever.

The other issue is it's real easy to cross thread the 21mm bolts that go into the diff from the back through the cross member in front of the tub for the trunk. Take your time and try to get the diff as stable as you can...preferably on a tranny jack or the like since there isn't a square side on the darn thing and it weighs. Back the bolts out if you're unsure. Better. thread the one bolt you can get out (one will stay up in one of the cross member openings for lack of space cause of the tub) and thread them in with your hands so you get a feel for how they start and go in (i.e. the pressure). Save yourself the headache of a cross thread. Trust me!!!

The axles collapse at the cv joints so you gotta yank on them and they collapse a bit. I don't recall reading this. Hmmm....that's about it. Oh yeah. The 1 1/4 socket needs to be a deep socket to get to the nut at the hub. Short socket or impact didn't work for me.

Have fun...

Special thanks to Hemi31 and GSOChallenger for all their input on mine!!!

HemiSam

70TA-09RT
11-20-2010, 08:57 AM
Sam, good to hear you have her all worked out after last weekend...have some fun when you get to the strip and knowing your axles should be able to handle what your gonna give her... :racing:
Jeff

HemiSam
11-20-2010, 09:02 AM
Sam, good to hear you have her all worked out after last weekend...have some fun when you get to the strip and knowing your axles should be able to handle what your gonna give her... :racing:
Jeff


Thanks, Jeff. I thought I was hosed since Snap On sent the wrong tap. they called me yesterday afternoon and said they couldn't locate another one in H-town...period. Then I get a call around 5pm...they finally decided to retap it. I was surprised...picked it up just before 7pm...when the close :banana:

Talk to ya soon.

Sam

Sector 2
11-20-2010, 09:50 AM
Thanks Sam...

HemiSam
11-20-2010, 09:57 AM
You bet, beam. One last thought. My seals at the diff looked fine and I wasn't too easy on them getting the axles out. Yours should be fine, but if they show any signs of wear (I'm assuming they're new) you might want to go ahead and replace.

Diff fluid...looks like you'll need 2 quarts.

HemiSam

Sector 2
11-20-2010, 10:42 AM
Again, Sam, right on.....I will let you know how it goes. But it won't be for a couple months when I get the lay away paid for.....

toofart
11-20-2010, 12:07 PM
Tell us how to do the swap in 15 minutes Erik!

PaCharger
11-20-2010, 12:36 PM
Tell us how to do the swap in 15 minutes Erik!

pull the tire off, pull the kuckle..etc...
Just faster than dropping the diff and a hell of a lot less sloppy.

Was pretty funny seeing how fast he got back into brackets! :)

HerDaytona
11-20-2010, 12:40 PM
I am wondering how the leftover spline portion is held while the axle nut is removed.

toofart
11-20-2010, 03:45 PM
pull the tire off, pull the kuckle..etc...
Just faster than dropping the diff and a hell of a lot less sloppy.

Was pretty funny seeing how fast he got back into brackets! :)

I was watching on 1320go.com and with the live feeds... Computer made sound when car #2 was back staging, I was like 'WHAT???'

Awesome job.

HemiSam
11-20-2010, 09:54 PM
After my experience dropping my new axles in, going in from the knuckles and avoiding those dang bolts at the back of the diff sounds good to me!!!! There are a few differences between the Challenger's Getrag and the instructions posted, but it's largely the same program.

I went with the DSS 1400hp axles since the 6-speed guys are breaking the 1000hp's, both DSS and BB. Here is the rub. Note the space....1/8 to 1/4" between the diff and the base of the axle. I checked with a couple of other guys and they got the same thing. It's working given the seals in the diff do their jobs, but why not just machine them to the right size and close that up some???

So my advice is to not only measure, with calipers, the OD of the stockers to the upgraded axles, but also measure the distance from the locking ring to the edge of the axle, and then the machined part of the axle (tip at the diff) to the base of that end. Odds are you'll find the same thing if you get the ones I did.

Happy moddin'...

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv357/cubasam/Drivetrain/Axles/IMG_1417.jpg

HemiSam

HemiSam
11-21-2010, 12:59 PM
Here's my experience with pic's. Thanks again to Erik for a great thread!

HemiSam

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=674963#post674963

dudeiwin86
01-10-2011, 08:16 PM
erik, one thing you might add is that you CAN remove the hubs with the axles in place.
getting to the 4 bolts in the back is a bit of a bitch.. but weve done it.

we tried this method to replace a damaged tone ring instead of dropping the rear/axles back out.
and it worked.
just had to pop the hub off, pry off the wasted tone ring, then tap a new one on. and then reiinstall the hub.

i wish i remembered about this write up when i was swapping my rear back to stock. tons of great tips in there.

Hemi31
01-10-2011, 08:23 PM
erik, one thing you might add is that you CAN remove the hubs with the axles in place.
getting to the 4 bolts in the back is a bit of a bitch.. but weve done it.

we tried this method to replace a damaged tone ring instead of dropping the rear/axles back out.
and it worked.
just had to pop the hub off, pry off the wasted tone ring, then tap a new one on. and then reiinstall the hub.

i wish i remembered about this write up when i was swapping my rear back to stock. tons of great tips in there.Not with a 6.1 or Getrag axle you can't!

dudeiwin86
01-10-2011, 09:30 PM
Not with a 6.1 or Getrag axle you can't!

except that we did it with a getrag!
we put MikeSpys in and screwed up a tone ring putting in the axles during the install.
i dont remember how we got at those 4 bolts, but we sure did!

InferAl
01-10-2011, 09:36 PM
except that we did it with a getrag!
we put MikeSpys in and screwed up a tone ring putting in the axles during the install.
i dont remember how we got at those 4 bolts, but we sure did!

I do remember Mike telling me something about this way back when we started with these Getrags, I'll try to call him

dudeiwin86
01-10-2011, 10:43 PM
I was there. I think iron mike and steve were there too. We did mikes then we did mine

We tried it on a whim instead of putting it back on the rack and tearing down everything we just did.

I just wanted to throw it out there cuz it can save some time if u get tone ring codes

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mikespy
01-10-2011, 10:52 PM
Yup it def. can be done. We jacked car up took wheel off, took half-shaft bolt off, then took off Hub. Someone held the half-shaft while we tapped new toner ring on.. Worked like a charm

TheBeej418
02-24-2011, 11:05 PM
Does anyone lube the axles with axle grease or anything? Seems like everyone just puts them in lube free.

dudeiwin86
02-24-2011, 11:08 PM
I never have lubed em.

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HemiSam
02-24-2011, 11:24 PM
I just put some of the fresh oil for the diff on a towel and hit the splines when I was replacing them in the diff.

HemiSam

wo23dodge
03-07-2011, 11:24 PM
old post I know but thx,searched this out tonight while standing in Sears looking for the correct tool to remove the hubs on my car,turns out they only sell a set of about 8 sockets for $40,Advance had the single socket for $4. :-)


Did the job yesterday. The correct tool to remove the hub bolts is an E12 socket. Thanks for the good write up Erik!

slideway
08-29-2011, 08:09 AM
Just printed this great instructional for like the IDK how many times! This will be the 4th. rear swap for me over the last 2 1/2 years but the little tips and shortcuts along with the list of tools needed (some of which I borrow from work) make it a no brainer to have available. A 3.91 getrag with upgraded friction disks is going in and my buddy Hack will be putting my current 3.73 in his pro-charged 6.1 challenger so I'll give him the inst. sheet, Thanks again E! :thumbs_u:

2006SilverRT
03-13-2012, 12:21 AM
Just printed this off and will be tackling tomarrow. My only question is you dont have to drain the diff fluid? Does diff fluid leak everywhere when you pull the axles?

HemiSam
03-13-2012, 12:46 AM
Won't be a problem if you don't tip the diff on its side.

HemiSam

2006SilverRT
03-13-2012, 07:22 PM
Im trying to remove the allen bolt from the front of the differential and if i put my finger on the top i can feel the bolt spinning. What size bolt is that on the other side so I can get this off? I put multiple sizes in there but nothing feels like it fits and space is very limited up there.

InferAl
03-13-2012, 08:20 PM
you have to let the diff hang with the weight of the diff on the bolt while you turn it out. Also the opposite tightening it, get it started with your fingers and then let the jack down so the weight of the diff hangs on the bolt and then it will tighten without turning on top

HemiSam
03-13-2012, 08:52 PM
^^^what he said. I struggled with that as well.

HemiSam

2006SilverRT
03-13-2012, 09:42 PM
thanks guys. I will start it back up tomarrow. Between working by myself, the allen bolt and watching my 2 year old i didnt get to much done.

2006SilverRT
03-15-2012, 04:00 PM
Well got them installed..what a job. Everything fit perfectly. Thanks for the writeup, theres no way I could have done this without it. The only thing I noticed is I have a slight whining noise on the freeway at 50mph now. Any slower or faster and its gone.

Sublime130
03-15-2012, 04:20 PM
You might need to install a small shim between that pinion bolt insulator and the body. The diff likes to touch the body. If you installed a Getrag that is. Grinding the diff a little works, but your beyond that.

2006SilverRT
03-15-2012, 10:45 PM
You might need to install a small shim between that pinion bolt insulator and the body. The diff likes to touch the body. If you installed a Getrag that is. Grinding the diff a little works, but your beyond that.

Yea i know that I read the whining issues with the getrags. I still have the stock differential...just threw in the 09RT axles and now I have a whining noise at 50mph.

HemiSam
03-16-2012, 11:17 AM
Reach out to Frank at DSS and see if he's heard of some harmonics issue or the like with your combination.

Congrats on getting her done.

HemiSam

rodneyiii
03-17-2012, 09:49 AM
Yea i know that I read the whining issues with the getrags. I still have the stock differential...just threw in the 09RT axles and now I have a whining noise at 50mph.
Does this mean you changed out the hubs also (32 splines)? And you installed a 215mm open differential?

Hemi31
03-17-2012, 10:16 AM
Yea i know that I read the whining issues with the getrags. I still have the stock differential...just threw in the 09RT axles and now I have a whining noise at 50mph.
did you check the fluid level before you drove it?

2006SilverRT
03-17-2012, 02:28 PM
Does this mean you changed out the hubs also (32 splines)? And you installed a 215mm open differential?

Yea, I changed the hubs to.


did you check the fluid level before you drove it?

I actually didnt check because not a single drop leaked out during the install.

HemiSam
03-18-2012, 11:03 AM
Check the level, and what shape the gear oil is in. Cheap insurance...

HemiSam

monty1269
03-19-2012, 11:42 AM
I actually didnt check because not a single drop leaked out during the install.

uuuhhh... was there any in there to leak out?? :banghead:

2006SilverRT
03-26-2012, 12:11 AM
uuuhhh... was there any in there to leak out?? :banghead:

No, I tilted the diff and emptied all of the fluid, then bolted it back up completely dry.

leveil22
10-10-2012, 10:55 AM
Anything special a V6 guy needs to know before doing this? Putting in a 3.90 from a 2.7 L

PRPLHAZE
10-10-2012, 11:59 AM
Nope nothing special. Pretty straight forward if your just swapping carriers. No need to touch axles or hubs, just pry axles out as you drop the diff down.

leveil22
10-10-2012, 12:41 PM
How long does it take?

PRPLHAZE
10-10-2012, 12:46 PM
Depends on how skilled or experienced the person doing it is and if you have access to a lift. If not your gonna need some floor jacks and stands. Make sure you have all the right tools as well. The v6 carriers has a fin on the bottom and makes using a regular jack difficult. And make sure you have a good pry bar to pop the axles out.

leveil22
10-10-2012, 06:48 PM
So we use all these same tools

stitchmonkey
10-10-2012, 06:55 PM
Check the level, and what shape the gear oil is in. Cheap insurance...

HemiSam when I did mine I took it in to a gear shop I know and they took it apart cleaned it and basically rebuilt it since all the parts were still in great shape it ws just new oil and seals.

10ChallSRT8
11-09-2012, 04:24 PM
I'm looking at doing this now and found some updated info. The PN 4593854AD is no longer avail per the Dealership. They came up with 459354AH which I promptly googled and found at HHP for $1401 (http://www.highhorseperformance.com/Mopar_2009_SRT8_3_73_LSD_Getrag_Differental_45938_ p/4593854ah.htm) which is far cheaper than the $2225 the stealership wants.

For a 2010 SRT8, it is my understanding that I can upgrade from 3.06 to 3.73 more easily by simply swapping out the entire pumpkin... true? If so, what other parts are involved? I was looking at a dealership doing this only to get a warranty out it. I still may wind up doing it in my garage though if the dealership gets stupid on labor.

bmeyer40
11-24-2012, 04:46 PM
Quick question. How much of a gap is there between the Pumpkin and the oem axles on the Getrag? Im in the middle of a swap and have bout an 1/8" on each side is that normal?

HemiSam
11-24-2012, 05:10 PM
Quick question. How much of a gap is there between the Pumpkin and the oem axles on the Getrag? Im in the middle of a swap and have bout an 1/8" on each side is that normal?

I've got more than that on my DSS's. You're good.

HemiSam

300Shawn
12-30-2012, 06:39 PM
Thanks to everyone that had input to this mod. The list of all the tools that are needed to get the job made it so much easy to get through. For those guys that have a pre-09 hemi i recommend that you head to the dealership when you order your diff so that you can get the bolt that is like 8 ft tall to mount the front of the diff. I love this mod and i am not looking forward to see how often i am going to buy new tires.

Chri_mar
12-30-2012, 09:51 PM
Thanks for the info posted in this thread and others. Just did the swap this week and everything went pretty smooth.

SMOKED1
04-29-2014, 11:09 PM
Ok so I need some help........allen bolt is losse but just spinning...anyone know how to get this off?

Hemi31
04-29-2014, 11:11 PM
let the diff hang on it. The weight will lock the back side. If it doesn't you will need to put a 17mm deep socket in from the top of the cradle.

glammy
06-02-2014, 02:24 PM
I just picked up the rear end out of an srt8 to put into my 06 rt. I have the differential, the axles, and the rear drive shaft. I think I want to redo all the seals, just to be on the safe side, where is the best place to get them? What else am I going to need? I am thinking of doing it this weekend, and would rather make sure I have all the tools, fluids, seals, beer and bandaids ready to go. Thanks in advance :)

Curts300srt8
06-09-2014, 08:51 PM
Does anyone know if there is a part number for the washer that goes between the axel and the hub? A friend lost the set that I had on my axles and now I need to figure out how to get replacement ones. The service manual refers to it as a "rubber isolation washer". Any help or leads would be greatly appreciated since I cant put it back together without them.

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Hemi31
06-09-2014, 10:12 PM
you can get away without it.

Curts300srt8
06-09-2014, 10:14 PM
What is the purpose of them?

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CNISTER
01-05-2015, 10:17 AM
Did this yesterday...TWICE! Put a Getrag into a friends cSRT and his 3.06 into my 5.7! Very nice write up, if you have any mechanical knowledge at all its straight forward and pretty damn easy to do!

One note, to open up the drain/fill plugs on the 215MM you need a 13MM (what whatever that is in standard) allen wrench or socket. Didnt have any on hand and couldnt find any on a Sunday evening at the parts stores! Made something work though! The getrag uses a 3/8 allen.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/13925_10204615594288609_1718996893892563952_n.jpg? oh=1695721ff166ab9fba2b0df1a03a420d&oe=553E955D&__gda__=1430205716_f50f3244bba9de3a97c0c558af370cd a

badplum
01-05-2015, 09:53 PM
Agreed on the excellent write up ,3.55 getrag went in yesterday so smoothly big thanks to hemi31 BFNY for sharing the info and supplying a bad ass rear.

mabroyles62
01-07-2015, 07:25 PM
subscribed

Richmonddjs
02-03-2015, 02:16 PM
are these the carrier bushings I need?

also, will the bolts holding in my existing rear V6 carrier to the cradle also work for the getrag?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311261790700?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

novawagonmaster
02-03-2015, 06:31 PM
Bolts are the same.
Those are the bushings, but I'm not a fan of poly there. I like rubber. Getrags are loud enough without stiff bushings.

gfr-300SRT8
02-03-2015, 09:13 PM
DO NOT GET THE POLY. Get factory replacements for the carrier.

10ChallSRT8
07-02-2015, 07:29 PM
Well after having the 3.73 for a couple years, I've decided to swap back to the 3.06 that I kept (the 3.73 is spoken for). Just a simple center section swap. The two 21mm bolts were not the bad at all I thought. I might change my mind when I have to tighten them with a big ole torque wrench. I had someone else install the 3.73 couple years ago but I'm installing the 3.06 myself. Got the old out and the new partially in. Passenger side axle was not too bad to slip in but how the hell do ya compress the Getrag against the other axle and manage compressing the remaining axle to slip in? I got help coming in the morning but wondering what the solo trick is.

tick2791
07-02-2015, 07:47 PM
Patience and beer helps.

rdskns75
09-08-2015, 06:51 PM
So we did the swap this weekend, changed out my 2.82 R/T diff for a 3.06 SRT diff, used this write up as we went, great write up very nice to have handy. Couple things:
1) not sure if everyone has just been lucky, forgot to mention it or if mine was different, but there is a master spline on the driveshafts. I was assured several time by my compadres that there isn't (they have done this a few times) but we couldn't get the two halves together so we pulled the front half down to try and get them lined up, still not looking for a master spline, finally I insisted we stop and take a very close look and low and behold there it was. The front half was an 07 RT and the rear was an 06 SRT so I don't believe it was a fluke.
2) I now have whine around the 50-55 mph area, accelerating, and 55-40ish area decelerating. anyone else run into this, if so how did you fix it? would the washer mod used on the getrags be a possibility? The previous owner assured me there was no whining while in his car.

gfr-300SRT8
09-09-2015, 12:30 PM
If the case is riding the cradle you need the washer mod.

Bryali
12-15-2015, 01:20 AM
I just used this write-up to put a Getrag 3.91 in my Charger. I've still got some noise that I think is coming from one of the axles, but the write-up is a HUGE help!

Thanks Erik!

FrenicX
04-07-2016, 02:05 AM
I just used this write-up to put a Getrag 3.91 in my Charger. I've still got some noise that I think is coming from one of the axles, but the write-up is a HUGE help!

Thanks Erik!
Hey Bryali, was there anything different between the Getrag install and the instructions here?

Bryali
04-07-2016, 09:04 AM
Hey Bryali, was there anything different between the Getrag install and the instructions here?

Nope, as I said, I used these same instructions for my Getrag install and it went smoothly. The noise I was hearing was from my axle nuts not being tight enough. I torqued to the factory specs but it was noisy so I torqued to 250. That wasn't enough so I put on a breaker bar and stood on it until the nut wouldn't move anymore--maybe 10-15* past the 250ft-lbs that my torque wrench stopped at--and now there's no more noise.

Tikibeast
04-28-2016, 07:19 PM
With all the threads about rear end upgrades lately here's a quick bump.

LSU300SRT8
05-03-2016, 01:50 PM
Looking to pull my Getrag soon, do I nee to have the suspenion compressed in order to pull the diff, or can it be down with the car on the lift?

hecatomb
05-03-2016, 01:55 PM
You can pull the diff with the car on the lift...suspension doesn't need to be compressed.

SuperTrooper169
07-31-2017, 02:22 PM
I'm going to be replacing my 09 R/T 215mm open diff with an 07 SRT with a Wavetrac installed soon. Can I leave the the axles installed in the hubs and just pry the end of the axels out of the diff when I lower it down or do have to remove the axle nuts from the hub in order to get them out of the diff?

Berserker
07-31-2017, 05:05 PM
On my 2010 RT I replaced the diff with an 07 SRT without removing the axles and hub nuts. I don't remember what side you are supposed to do first, but I remember I did the wrong side. Was a PITA on the ground without a lift, but yes, you don't have to remove the axles.

SuperTrooper169
07-31-2017, 05:39 PM
Awesome thanks. That's what I needed to know. I think I read drivers side first but I don't know if that's specifically for leaving the axels in the hub or in general.

War Eagle
04-26-2018, 08:52 PM
Sorry to bump an old thread....

Does anyone know if the dealer can change the gear ratio in the PCM? I have a Predator already and I think I could change the gear ratio that way.

My general thought is that the Predator should be unmarried from the vehicle prior to taking to the dealer for service. If someone did that with a car that has a non-stock ratio, then the transmission would go into limp mode from what I have read. So, if the the stock map can be modified for the new gear ratio, then the tuner could be unmarried and no concern that the dealer may reflash the PCM or TCM on a car with a married tuner.

Thoughts?


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Jay Z
09-12-2019, 11:52 AM
Reference

Jay Z
09-14-2019, 08:29 PM
Thank you everyone for the helpful post and of course THANK YOU Erik. Successfully installed new rear end, inner and outer tie rods AND adjustable upper control arms in 6 hours while taking lunch.