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View Full Version : Brake Pad Replacement (5.7L) - Step by Step



Junior
02-03-2008, 04:42 PM
Here's the procedure for swapping the brake pads on the 5.7L LX's. I believe the process is essentially the same for the V6's (Here's (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=95260) an excellent write-up JamminWagon did for the V6'ers). The Brembos are different, and I'll do a write-up on those soon. Also, I've added some photos and information about servicing the guide pins in Post #20 (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=1363877&postcount=20), below. One more thing I ignored in this write-up is the application of something to the back of the pads to prevent brake squeal. Here's (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=109101) some info on that.

Tools needed:
13mm, 15mm, and 18mm box- and open-end wrenches.
Two Quick-grip clamps, or c-clamps with two small blocks of wood (1x2x2 or so).
12" of some tie-wire or string.
Aerosol brake cleaner.
Hi-temp Brake grease for the guide pins.
Anti-squeal for the back of the pads (brake grease or CRC "Disc Brake Quiet")

Front Brakes - Starting Point:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2126.jpg

Here's the top of the caliper assembly. You'll be working on the bottom of the assembly, not the top, but it's easier to see what needs to happen when looking at the top. There's a 13mm bolt that comes from the backside of the assembly, and a bushing that it passes through (called the guide pin), which needs to be held with an 18mm wrench:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2130copy.jpg

Here's the bottom of the caliper, with the wrenches on the fasteners. You need to remove the 13mm bolt, while keeping the 18mm guide pin from spinning:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2136.jpg

Once it's loose, remove the bolt:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2138.jpg

Then take the end of the 13mm wrench and pry the caliper away from the assembly:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2145.jpg

Then rotate the caliper up and away from the assembly. If it's really snug, before you rotate the caliper upwards, pull the caliper towards you firmly for a few seconds, and then back away from you - this should retract the pistons enough to provide the clearance necessary. EDIT: Also, part of the friction here comes from the adhesive they use to prevent brake squeal - you can see it on the pads.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2147.jpg

Here's the caliper rotated up. Tie the caliper up and out of the way (I used some copper wire):

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2150.jpg

Then simply lift the brake pads out of the "caliper adapters" on each side (inside and outside):

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2152.jpg

If they're grimy, you can take out the "anti-rattle clips" and clean them up.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2153.jpg

Wow, I guess it was time, eh?

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2163.jpg

Because of the obvious difference in thickness from old to new, you need to provide more clearance to get the calipers over the new pads. Here's the pistons as the were:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2168.jpg

So you need to retract the pistons in their bore. First, open the brake fluid reservoir up in the engine bay, below the driver's side windshield wiper. DO NOT top off the reservoir at this time, even if it appears low. Retracting the pistons will return ALL of the original fluid to the reservoir.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2176.jpg

Then take the Quick-grips and apply pressure to the pistons to retract them - do both at the same time - you don't want one to compensate for the other. If you use c-clamps, you must use a piece of wood (or similar) to protect the faces of the pistons. Quick-grips are the way to go, if you have them:

Here's how they'll go (but remember - wait until both clamps are on there - do both at the same time):

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2173.jpg

Both clamps on:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2169.jpg

Here are the pistons fully retracted:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2178.jpg

And the new pads swapped on:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2182.jpg


EDIT: At this point, you really should do what I didn't do in this thread, which is apply some anti-squeal to the back of the pads before reassembly. More info on that Here. (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1488034)

Junior
02-03-2008, 04:42 PM
OK, once the new pads are seated, untie the caliper and rotate it back down. Guide the pistons over the backside pad, and the caliper into the caliper adapter.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2183.jpg

The guide pin bushing has trapped air behind it, which makes it seem spring-loaded, so push it in a little bit as you seat the caliper so it clears:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2185.jpg

Reinstall the guide pin bolt, and while holding the guide pin with the 18mm wrench again, torque it down. The FSM says 44 ft. lbs. - but if you don't have a torque wrench that will fit back there, give it a good hearty pull on the box-end wrench, and you should be right there.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2187.jpg

Rear Brakes - Starting Point:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2188.jpg

These are nearly the same as the fronts, but there's only one piston, and you rotate the calipers down instead of up. Also, the guide pin bolt is a 15mm in the rear - the guide pin is the same 18mm. Here they are:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2189.jpg

Hold the 18mm, and loosen the 15mm:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2191.jpg

Rotate the caliper down:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2193.jpg

Retract the piston (with the brake fluid reservoir cap off):

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2194.jpg

Swap the brake pads:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2197.jpg

Push the guide pin in, while rotating the caliper back up:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2201.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2204.jpg

Reinstall the guide pin bolt:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2205.jpg

...and torque it down. If you lean the 18mm wrench on the knuckle, you can free up both hands for tightening the 15mm:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2206.jpg

Here's a situation I ran into on the rear driver's side. The FSM didn't mention this. Due to the routing and the angles of the brake line on this side, I could neither rotate the caliper up or down - the fitting on the brake line hit the fenderwell. No big deal, though - it just meant I had to remove both guide pin bolts and pull the caliper off the assembly.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2214.jpg

Tie it up so it's not hanging on the brake line, and proceed:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2216.jpg

And there you have it:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2218.jpg

Be sure to replace the cap on the fluid reservoir before doing anything else.

After driving on the new pads for a few miles, you can check the brake fluid reservoir level, and top it off if necessary - though it's unlikely that it will be down at all.

Within a week or so, it's a good idea to bed in the brakes. Here's the proper procedure for doing that, from Dave Zeckhausen:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Cheers!

FloridaRT
02-03-2008, 04:52 PM
Good write....................nice photos.

Bob

fnkychkn
02-03-2008, 07:24 PM
great write-up Junior. bucket-o-beans for you :thumbs_u:
KB submission perhaps?

just for clarification; the guide pins are not spring loaded, trapped air makes it feel that way. also, it's a good idea to clean/lubricate the guide pins.

Braddah Jay
02-03-2008, 08:09 PM
Very good useful write up! Gotta bookmark this for future reference.:beerchug:

RobAGD
02-03-2008, 08:26 PM
Great write up Mike !

Beans man.

Damn went the squeakers going nuts ? not much pad left at all.

As a personal preferance I add new fluid to the rez and bleed out the calibers of the older stuff that has a higher chance of being slightly burnt :) You know from those tire wall avoidance manuvers that maybe you know maybe over heated the fluid a tad :mrgreen:

-Robert

charginscott
02-03-2008, 08:37 PM
Great write up man - May I add one thing....

The safest way to compress the caliper pistons would be to do it with the old pad against the pistons with one clamp in the middles of them.

Cudozzz for a good write up

JamminWagon
02-03-2008, 08:55 PM
Dang it Funky beat me to it, you should also lube the guide pins.

Here is a pic from the V-6 right up I did showing the guide pin re-lubed
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff46/JamminWagon/rotors/DSC00087.jpg

The rest of the V-6 brake/rotor change.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=95260

bipto
02-03-2008, 09:04 PM
Dude - how long did you have to search to find brake pads to match your car..? :mrgreen:

Seriously man - great tutorial! :rock:

MAGFX
02-03-2008, 09:09 PM
Wow, another good write up.:not_worth

Junior, I love too read these, even if they do not pertain to my vehicle. :beerchug:

Junior
02-03-2008, 09:13 PM
Wow, some great suggestions for additional info up there! Thanks fellas - I'll make some edits after the game.

MattRobertson
02-03-2008, 09:26 PM
Junior, get it the way you want it and I'll put it into the Knowledge Base. Great work!

Junior
02-04-2008, 12:14 AM
just for clarification; the guide pins are not spring loaded, trapped air makes it feel that way. also, it's a good idea to clean/lubricate the guide pins.
Thanks Pete - do those just pull out from the rear once the caliper is removed?


Damn went the squeakers going nuts ? not much pad left at all.
Yeah, they were squawking for a few days before I got the pads in!


As a personal preferance I add new fluid to the rez and bleed out the calibers of the older stuff that has a higher chance of being slightly burnt :) You know from those tire wall avoidance manuvers that maybe you know maybe over heated the fluid a tad :mrgreen:
I was tempted, but didn't do it - but I suspect you're right and I further suspect half of my stock pad material was left behind at that precise location...!

So do you add just enough to replace the volume from the calipers, or is it a complete fluid change?


Great write up man - May I add one thing....

The safest way to compress the caliper pistons would be to do it with the old pad against the pistons with one clamp in the middles of them.
That's a great idea. I may take some more pictures and update this in the next week - if so, I'll take some of that idea...


Dang it Funky beat me to it, you should also lube the guide pins.
Thanks man, I think I'll take them apart again and do that - the wear was incredibly uneven on my stock pads (inside was way down vs. outside had plenty left). I suspect (and others suggested) that this was likely due to the guide pins sticking. I have some "Disc Brake High-temp bearing grease", or...?


Here is a pic from the V-6 right up I did showing the guide pin re-lubed
<snip>
The rest of the V-6 brake/rotor change.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=95260
Thanks again, I missed it (a couple weeks ago? dang!) - I linked to it at the top of my first post above.


Dude - how long did you have to search to find brake pads to match your car..? :mrgreen:

Seriously man - great tutorial! :rock:
Thanks Bill - They're EBC TopBanana Stuff pads. :mrgreen:


Junior, get it the way you want it and I'll put it into the Knowledge Base. Great work!
OK! Give me a few days to get answers from above and work them in with some more pics...

RobAGD
02-04-2008, 12:41 AM
Junior - I ended up doing a full flush but when its a "normal" pad replacment I just replace whats need to refill what I squeese out from the bleeder.

-R

Junior
02-04-2008, 01:30 AM
Junior - I ended up doing a full flush but when its a "normal" pad replacment I just replace whats need to refill what I squeese out from the bleeder.
Which is what, usually? A pump or two on the brakes, or...?

RobAGD
02-04-2008, 01:43 AM
Humm I think all told I used a bottle maybe total for all 4 brakes with some left over sorry :)

Full Flush I honestly dont recall how much because I pushed out a lot of extra, I had bought 3 bottles if I recall correctly.

-Robert

fnkychkn
02-04-2008, 07:49 AM
Thanks Pete - do those just pull out from the rear once the caliper is removed?
yes, they just pull out. i use mopar brake grease P/N J8993704 which can be seen on page 27 of this pdf: http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/Vehicle_care_catalog_2006.pdf

MattRobertson
02-04-2008, 03:44 PM
It doesn't take much to move fluid thru these lines. My experience was similar to Rob's. I've done quickee bleeds in the paddock where I pump till I see clear fluid on all four wheels and I've used like a half-bottle or so, tops.

Incidentally a bleeder bottle is a great thing for keeping the mess down. Can those be used on stock brakes? I'm only talking about a sports bottle with a flexible tube on it to collect the fluid while I pump the pedal. Not one of those big fancy pneumatic jobbies.

Junior
02-04-2008, 03:50 PM
I haven't done anything with fluid on these brakes, but on the Ghia and motorcycles I've used a mason jar with an inch or so of new fluid, and then a hose that fits on the bleeder nipple from there to the jar. That way the air comes out of the hose into the fluid, and once the air is purged out of the lines, there's no way for air to get taken back into the system.

Is that what you're talking about?

Junior
02-12-2008, 05:40 PM
OK, here's an update with info on servicing the guide pins. The guide pins are what allows the pistons on only one side of the caliper to apply even pressure to pads on both sides of the rotor. They allow the caliper to float between the inside and outside.

If you read through the procedure above, what follows should make sense. You can either do one guide pin at a time, or remove the caliper (and tie it up) and do both pins at the same time. I think it's easier to do the latter.

Here's one, as you find it:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2330.jpg

You need to pull the guide pin out of the rubber sleeve that it's in. This sleeve is what traps the air in, and makes the pins feel spring-loaded. It may be tight at the widest part of the guide pin, just short of the hex head. If necessary, hold the rubber sleeve, and turn the guide pin out of it, or get a fingernail between the two to let the air in.

Once you do, you should get this:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2331.jpg

The grease that's on there should be nice and clean - if it isn't, you've got bigger issues - probably a torn sleeve.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2333.jpg

Clean him off, like so:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2334.jpg

Grease them lightly with some high-temp disc brake wheel-bearing grease, and then re-insert them into the rubber sleeves. It's best to pull the outer lip of the sleeve out if necessary, and make sure the mouth is open uniformly - i.e. make sure one edge isn't rolled in on itself. Then guide the guide pin back into its sleeve.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2335.jpg

Note how much further out the upper one is (serviced), compared to the lower one (not serviced) in this picture:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2336.jpg

I suspect you want to trap as much air in there as possible to provide the best action - so just twist the freshly greased guide pin into the sleeve at its outermost position.

Happy stopping!

Todd RT
02-24-2008, 05:12 PM
Junior,

First I want to thank you for this writeup. Who knows how many hours you saved me in doing my very FIRST brake job.

I installed the R1Concepts drilled and slotted rotors at the same time. My front rotors were warped after 70K miles. My brakes had also been squeaking. So while I was replacing the rotors, I put on some Hawk brake pads at the same time! (suprisingly after 70K miles, my stock pads still had more than 50% life left!)

The only thing I'd like to add to this write up is:

I completely removed the calipers (because of the rotor change).
I also serviced the guide pins, since I had everything apart anyways.

I found another use for the QuickGrips. After reassembling the calipers, after servicing the guide pins, I found the QuickGrips usefull for holding the caliper open while sliding it back onto the new rotors. I simply used the QuickGrips to compress one of the guide pins, therefore holding the caliper open for ease of installing over the new caliper.

Thought this might help someone else out!

Also, the rear brakes had lock-tite on the the guide pin bolts, so reapplied this. Didn't notice lock-tite on the front caliper guide pins though... but coulda just missed it! So you may want to add lock-tite to the list of needed supplies! (Was Stop-Squeak mentioned anywhere? It too should be on the list!)

Lastly.. to save some time... (Thanks to 7thSon for recommending this!) I used an upsidedown bucket to hold the caliper up, instead of hanging it from a wire. Thanks 7thSon!!

Thanks again Junior! Hope to see you again SOON!

Junior
02-24-2008, 05:39 PM
You betcha Todd! Thanks for the additional thoughts! I like the bucket idea.

typicalmarine
02-24-2008, 06:50 PM
Wow, thanks for this. Ive been looking to do my own brakes for a bit and now I think Im going to give it a go.

While im doing my brakes, I was thinking of painting the calipers. How can I remove the caliper from the brake line so I cant paint it?

Thanks

Trojan
02-24-2008, 06:54 PM
Thats was a excellent write up Jr. Great work!

Junior
02-24-2008, 08:02 PM
While im doing my brakes, I was thinking of painting the calipers. How can I remove the caliper from the brake line so I can paint it?

I've not done it yet, so if anyone wants to check my work, fire away!

That being said, you should be able to remove the "banjo bolt" holding the line onto the caliper with your standard combo wrench of the right size. Keep the filler cap on the brake fluid reservoir so it has a vacuum (so the brake fluid doesn't pour out of the lines - though I guess it probably will if you have the lines off two calipers at the same time...)

If you do that, you WILL need to bleed the brakes afterward, which is a different process entirely.

Another option that folks have used is to simply mask off the lines, and hang the calipers in the wheelwell to paint them. Of course, if you're spraying, you'll want to mask off more than the lines...

Hope that helps - and anyone wanna chime in on what it takes to remove the calipers (i.e. fluid control)?

Mag Dr
02-24-2008, 09:33 PM
Hey Mike,
Great write up, nice pics, leaves no guess work.
let me know how the EBC pads work out for you, that is what I had ordered for my 05 Mag before I traded it for the 07, I will most likely get those for the 07 when it's time.


Dave

Todd RT
02-25-2008, 08:40 AM
Wow, thanks for this. Ive been looking to do my own brakes for a bit and now I think Im going to give it a go.

I've never done brakes before, and it took me about an hour a wheel, including rotors. If you are gonna paint, plan on a couple days of no drivin. Cause by the time you let each coat dry....:doh:

Junior
04-10-2008, 08:00 PM
In case you missed the edit in the first post, I added a write-up on how to eliminate brake squeal. It's over here:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=109101

It's something I didn't take into account when I swapped my pads, and they howled. It's a simple fix, but one you should do at the time you swap your pads.

Hemipowered12
04-10-2008, 08:54 PM
ok i feel really stupid for asking this...i always let the shops do this at the dealership but..omfg i feel so dumb but so is there a break pad on each side of the caliper?? so if you replaced all brake pads we should have a total of 8 pads right ??? the reason i ask this is bc i ordered a set for the front and back and was nly sent 4 pads..did i get them all or is there only 4 and not 8??? once again i feel freaking stupid

Junior
04-10-2008, 09:03 PM
ok i feel really stupid for asking this...i always let the shops do this at the dealership but..omfg i feel so dumb but so is there a break pad on each side of the caliper?? so if you replaced all brake pads we should have a total of 8 pads right ??? the reason i ask this is bc i ordered a set for the front and back and was nly sent 4 pads..did i get them all or is there only 4 and not 8??? once again i feel freaking stupid

Don't worry about it! It's good to ask.

There is (Always, on every brake setup I've ever seen) one pad on each side of each rotor. So there's 8 total. If all four of yours are the same size and shape, you've got one set (front OR rear). If two are one size and two are another, then you've got side (front AND rear). I imagine they probably sent you one set (all four the same), but you never know...

Hope that helps - check your receipt to make sure you didn't get gipped. (No offense meant to any gypsies that might be lurking out there...)

Magnum P.I
04-10-2008, 10:17 PM
Junior,Once again i must commend you on a excellent writeup,very detail and informative(i don't have a 5.7,but still very good info to know).And thanks to everyone who also added to the writeup...

Peace
Denroy

Hemipowered12
04-11-2008, 12:36 AM
ok called the vendor i bought them from and seems like they are here just there stuck at fed ex and never were delivered to me...so i get to pick them up tomorrow
thanks for the help

Cory

LAGuy
05-07-2008, 03:51 PM
How is the brake pad dust with the EBC's?

Junior
05-07-2008, 06:14 PM
^^ About like stock, I'd say. Maybe a little dustier.

LAGuy
05-08-2008, 03:32 AM
Cool, thanks. Took a look around the vendor isle and it's not obvious where to buy pads at. Can you recommend one?

Junior
05-08-2008, 04:08 AM
^^^ Yup. Got mine at AutoAnything.com (http://www.AutoAnything.com)

Try this:

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/20A50531A1.aspx

$155.70 for all four wheels, free shipping. They have the reds and the greens and a couple other brands as well.

BIG SMOOTH
06-28-2008, 05:03 PM
Because of this thread, I did it today and it could not have been any easier and taken so little time to complete! Soooo easy! Thanks for posting!

Junior
06-29-2008, 02:26 AM
Because of this thread, I did it today and it could not have been any easier and taken so little time to complete! Soooo easy! Thanks for posting!

Good deal, man! Glad to hear it.

Ron380
07-27-2008, 04:00 PM
Another satisfied consumer here Junior! :D

Thanks for this great write-up! I installed the YellowStuff pads (preparing for a Track Day at Mid Ohio), and I put on the anti-squeal. (That stuff sticks to EVERYTHING, by the way...LOL) I also did the bedding, and everything is working great, and nice n' quiet! :thumbs_u:

:pepper::pepper: :racing:

Junior
07-27-2008, 10:46 PM
Makes me happy! :thumbs_u:

BurntOrange
09-20-2008, 07:29 PM
Loads of thanks for this write up, I think I was done in less then a hour.


thanks, heith

Spali32
03-14-2009, 11:14 AM
So I replaced my front rotors with slotted rotors along with new Hawk Performance Pads. The brakes feel great on the road............stop sooooooooooo much better now. I did alot of 35-40mph to 0 mph stops and they felt great.

My ? is on my passenger side rotor it shows about an 1" wide wear into the rotor from the new brake pads. I have about 40 miles or wear total currently.

The Left side shows the same but the Drivers side shows the outer edge of the rotor being worn (already shiney)while the Passenger side shows the inner edge wear of the rotor very lightly (still see the hash marks on the rotor were the pad has been wearing the last 40 miles).

I hope it's something simple and/or I just need to break them in more.

Spali32
03-17-2009, 12:12 AM
Well after about 150 miles or so, it appears like the pads are showing more wear on the rotors. Looks like all I needed to do was wear them in longer.

Junior
03-17-2009, 12:26 AM
Well after about 150 miles or so, it appears like the pads are showing more wear on the rotors. Looks like all I needed to do was wear them in longer.

Sorry, I had somehow missed your previous post! Glad it's gotten sorted out though. Did you do a good bedding-in procedure?

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Hemi 7
04-04-2009, 08:56 AM
Excellent write up Junior my hat is off to you ..thats a hell of a camera you got!!!!!!!

vile
05-28-2009, 10:44 AM
nice write up; can you also include torque value of all the bolts up in the first post?

Junior
05-28-2009, 01:01 PM
nice write up; can you also include torque value of all the bolts up in the first post?

I'll try to dig them up in the FSM, but I don't think they're particularly specific - not like heads or something. Get them as tight as you can with one wrench (i.e. no added leverage).

But I'll take a look at the FSM and see if they're listed.

concussion
06-13-2009, 11:04 AM
Great write up Junior.

In the Haynes manual it says that if you're gonna remove the banjo bolts you need to replace the sealing washers.

Is this true??

Thanks guys.

Cheers,
Burleson

Junior
07-03-2009, 12:53 AM
Hey Burleson, I missed this earlier... I've always heard that too, but I'm not sure I've always done it.

When I swapped to Brembos I had new washers, and when we put my R/T stuff on BritishNate's SXT, we bought new washers. They were available at the local parts store, and cheap, so we did it. I figure they're called 'crush washers' for a reason.

We were one short, though, and so we reused it. When we applied the brakes, fluid came rushing out of that banjo bolt, and I thought "well, crap - that confirms it" - until I realized that it was still loose because we were hoping to come up with another new one... lol

Long story short, once tight, it held fine, and my guess is that if you can't come up with new ones, you're probably OK reusing 'em.

I think they're essentially the same as the crush washers on sparkplugs - you know how they tighten differently the first time you install a new sparkplug, and if you take one out and put it back in, there's much less transition from snug to tight - after the washers are crushed, they just hit the threshold more immediately... at least they used to be that way - I haven't noticed it on the plug swaps I've done lately. But even so, they seal just fine.

And that was long-winded. :mrgreen:

concussion
07-03-2009, 12:44 PM
No worries man,

I'm out to do the rears and then the fronts tonight... I gotta bomb this job while the little guy is asleep and the rears are making a racket.

Thanks again.

Burleson

mikesmagrt
10-12-2009, 10:33 AM
THANKS FOR THE WRITE UP ! just did my fronts 64 k on originals and had about 5/16 th pad left .
got my ceramic pads at autozone for $37.99 with a lifetime warranty ! i rotated my tires while i was at it and checked the back pads (over 1/2 left) and cleaned and relubed the back sliders .

fatpockets44
12-26-2009, 10:46 PM
Great info!!!!!!!! thanks!!!

Black R/T Magnum
05-02-2011, 02:41 PM
I know this is an old post. Thanks for the info. Plan on doing this over the weekend.

KStryker
05-02-2011, 02:43 PM
Yeah, because of Junior and a fellow GALX club member walking me through this...I can almost do this with my eyes closed.

SCOTT57RT
07-23-2011, 08:42 AM
Thanks for the writeup!

SCOTT57RT
07-26-2011, 11:45 PM
Justin (extreme) gave me a link for bedding the brakes. The process really helped quiet mine down. I've heard that bedding the brakes is a needed step for any pad or rotor change.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Junior
07-27-2011, 02:06 AM
Justin (extreme) gave me a link for bedding the brakes. The process really helped quiet mine down. I've heard that bedding the brakes is a needed step for any pad or rotor change.

Instructions for bedding in your brakes (http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm)

I agree!

(That's why the same link is included at the end of the writeup.)

:mrgreen:

SCOTT57RT
07-27-2011, 07:20 AM
I agree!

(That's why the same link is included at the end of the writeup.)

:mrgreen:

Whoops! Thanks junior. Tapatalk let me down. I needed to hit the "more" button to see your full writeup and completely missed the bedding discussion. Sorry for the confusion.

Pale Rider
07-27-2011, 10:17 AM
Whoops! Thanks junior. Tapatalk let me down. I needed to hit the "more" button to see your full writeup and completely missed the bedding discussion. Sorry for the confusion.

No confusion, just a reminder for others to bed the brakes! :thumbs_u:

Junior
07-27-2011, 10:51 AM
Yep! My sarcasm was the playful sort. Thanks for the reminder bump!

RandySmith
06-25-2012, 01:20 PM
Gotta thank Junior for the write-up - very helpful this weekend when replacing my brake pads (better than my Haynes manual!). Used Hawk Performance Ceramic pad for my 2007 R/T, ordered from Autoanything.com: HB509Z.678 (F) and HB580Z.675 (R).
Torques look to be the following (foot-pounds):
Caliper mounting Front 44, Rear 23
Caliper bracket bolts Front 70, Rear 85
Banjo bolt 37

I'll also add that Raybestos has a new product, Drag Reduction Clips, that are supposed to extend pad life. These are wire springs that fit over the pads (seem to fit any brand pads). Part number for my car is H6029 (available from Rockauto.com ).

VIDEOBOB
08-05-2012, 02:14 AM
I wanted to add to this thread and mention ROTOR REPLACEMENT.

44034

I recently replaced my rotors, pads and painted my calipers.
The process is much like replacing the pads, but you have to also remove the top bolts to remove the entire caliper.
Since I was painting mine, I removed them entirely.
I first cleaned them with brake cleaner and then I bead blasted them, but that was not totally necessary, it is just important
that they are clean of grease.
(make sure you replace the bolt in the hole where the line goes so nothing gets inside!!!)
I used red ceramic caliper paint to paint all the parts.
It takes about 3-5 hours for the paint to dry!!

I bought a complete kit of front and rear drilled/slotted/vented rotors that came with the ceramic pads.
Cost me less than $300.00, actually about $260 I think!!!
You will also notice that the front rotors are larger than the rear.
The rotors are pretty much just sitting there but they may be rusted into place.
I used to PB Blaster to loosen them up, but it took a sledge hammer to knock them loose.
They fell right off.

The thing that took the longest was cleaning them and waiting for the paint to dry.
If you are skipping that process it was pretty easy, but you will need someone to help you bleed them if you remove them.

Since my car has about 170K miles on it I went ahead and flushed the fluid out and replaced it with some new fluid.

I can honestly say that I wished I had done this sooner. These brakes are much smoother and responsive than the stock,
they resist warping and also clear the dust away and quite frankly they just look awesome!!!

44035

albertojedi
11-24-2012, 06:52 PM
Great tutorial!

Are the front brake rotors the ones with the 320mm or 345mm outside diameter? I've been looking for the technical specs of exactly those Boschs, but haven't found them even on Bosch's webpage.

Thanks.

albertojedi
11-24-2012, 06:54 PM
Thanks.

ginuwine
05-23-2013, 04:22 PM
is this the same for AWD 300 as well ?
whats best brakes for no squeaking?

Magnum P.I
05-23-2013, 06:05 PM
is this the same for AWD 300 as well ?
whats best brakes for no squeaking?

Apart from the caliper on the front of the AWD being placed ahead of the rotor the brake setup is the same on your ride. Infact the 5.7lx RWD cars and all the AWD lx regardless of the motor size share the same brake system.

As for your squeaking I always have little to none with ceramic pads, other factors could also be at play in regards to the squeaking. I would search on the forum and read a few of the post that refer to brakes squeaking.

M

nocall4it
10-13-2014, 02:31 PM
junior, what if i suspect the guide pin sleeve is torn? You indicated there are "bigger problems". I notice uneven pad wear front to rear with front being more worn than the rear of the pad and only on the inboard pad. I suspect upper guide sleeve is torn. what is the solution? Thanks.

nocall4it
10-13-2014, 02:35 PM
I think I posted this in the wrong thread, sorry. I think I have a torn guide pin sleeve on the upper pin the inboard pad has uneven wear front to rear with front(top) portion of the pad being worn more. You indicated "bigger problems" if a torn sleeve. What is the solution?
Thanks Junior, great thread and instruction!

jhod
11-13-2014, 02:04 PM
Great info and write-up. I have a "technical" question.

I have read write-ups and other articles at other car model forums and some mention that damage can be done to the master cylinder, depending on the model of the car, by pushing the brake fluid back into the master cylinder when the piston is pushed back into the bore in the caliper. In such a case, they recommend opening the bleeder on the caliper to "vent" the excess brake fluid instead of forcing it back into the master cylinder.

It seems easier to just push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder than use the bleeder on the caliper, but I don't want to chance damaging the master cylinder. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks again for the write-up and the info.

420guy
11-13-2014, 08:47 PM
Great info and write-up. I have a "technical" question.

I have read write-ups and other articles at other car model forums and some mention that damage can be done to the master cylinder, depending on the model of the car, by pushing the brake fluid back into the master cylinder when the piston is pushed back into the bore in the caliper. In such a case, they recommend opening the bleeder on the caliper to "vent" the excess brake fluid instead of forcing it back into the master cylinder.

It seems easier to just push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder than use the bleeder on the caliper, but I don't want to chance damaging the master cylinder. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks again for the write-up and the info.
I have always just popped the filler cap off and squeezed away on a c-clamp with one of the old pads in there and never had an issue. Mind you I have never done it on an LX yet, but at least 20 times on various other vehicles with zero issues.

SCOTT57RT
11-14-2014, 08:15 AM
I have always just popped the filler cap off and squeezed away on a c-clamp with one of the old pads in there and never had an issue. Mind you I have never done it on an LX yet, but at least 20 times on various other vehicles with zero issues.

X2 on the process for my LX. I've done it about 4 times and never had an issue with the master cylinder. I am by no means an expert on brakes, so wait for a real expert to respond. (Btw, the 4 times is driven by the faint squeal in my brakes for light application. I keep trying new ways to eliminate it because it bugs me so)

jhod
11-14-2014, 10:01 AM
Thank you both.

I've watched a number of Youtube videos on brake replacement on the LX platform and read a number of tutorials on LXs with no mention of master cylinder damage. I've also watched a number of generic Youtube videos on brake replacement. I can't remember where I read about it or saw it mentioned, but the comment was regarding the possibility of it happening with "some cars".

It wasn't mentioned on this forum if I remember correctly. I'll go back and review the videos I watched and revisit some brake manufacturer sites and see if I can find it.

Thanks to both of you again.

Maybe funky will see this and chime in.

Loanshark
01-27-2015, 12:32 PM
I have always just popped the filler cap off and squeezed away on a c-clamp with one of the old pads in there and never had an issue. Mind you I have never done it on an LX yet, but at least 20 times on various other vehicles with zero issues.

Same here--however--Some mfgrers. (can you say Ford?) on some models (Freestyle) require the use of a special tool to "screw" the piston in while you compress it. Ask me how I know. :doh:

Planedr
01-27-2015, 03:09 PM
Same here--however--Some mfgrers. (can you say Ford?) on some models (Freestyle) require the use of a special tool to "screw" the piston in while you compress it. Ask me how I know. :doh:

Audi and VW use those stupid a$$ calipers also. C-clamp and big vise grips. Tighten c-clamp ¼ turn, screw piston in ¼ turn,Tighten c-clamp ¼ turn, screw piston in ¼ turn, keep repeating until you are pissed off and your hands hurt. lol I've done my Audi 3 times like that.

jhod
01-28-2015, 11:54 AM
Audi and VW use those stupid a$$ calipers also. C-clamp and big vise grips. Tighten c-clamp ¼ turn, screw piston in ¼ turn,Tighten c-clamp ¼ turn, screw piston in ¼ turn, keep repeating until you are pissed off and your hands hurt. lol I've done my Audi 3 times like that.

My son and I were talking awhile back and he said, when he had a 1998 Ford Mustang V6, he went through the same process having to screw the pistons back in to the caliper.

Dr. Bud
04-08-2019, 02:15 PM
One of the best parts of this forum is the KB! I've got R1 rotors and pads coming for the Magnum this week, so I've got my weekend project ahead of me :)