Adam's Premium Car Care

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  1. #1
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    Method: PROPER engine bay cleaning

    I've seen a few threads recently about engine bay cleaning. Fears. Concerns. Processes, etc. So I figured I'd share how WE DO IT. Day in, day out, with TONS of success, and zero issues.

    I'd like to preface this thread, that I don't know everything and I don't have all the answers. You guys can listen to whomever you choose. Or whatever other "expert" videos that might be out there. With that being said....we don't play around at Insane Paint Auto Detailing. And our engine bay resurrections get huge fanfare when our clients pick up their vehicle. You can do as you like, but for us, this method works 100% of the time.

    I don't have a ton of "procedure" pictures (action shots). So until I get some to update this thread, you'll have to use the God-given gifts of common sense & imagination.

    1) AAAAALWAYS start with a cool engine!!! Anyone that says it's okay to do this on a hot motor, seriously doesn't know correct procedure. Mainly because it's not good for the car, but ALSO because the cleaning products will DRY OUT before you even get a chance to use them, lol (same reason it's bad to wash a hot car). A cool engine bay, will lead to a proper, simple engine bay detail, and allow the products to work to their fullest ability.

    2) You'll need a few brushes. To reach the top surfaces you can get your hands on. But also some of the deeper areas down into the bay and crevices. Here's a few we use regularly:
    ADAM'S BOARS HAIR BRUSH
    ADAM'S WHEEL WOOLIES
    ADAM'S LUGNUT BRUSH

    3) A basic, non-toxic All Purpose Cleaner is all you need for cleaning. It won't harm metals, clamps, blocks, etc. Totally safe on hoses & plastics. Nothing more is needed. Quit running to the store and getting those harsh degreasers and acids. Totally unnecessary!! Here:
    ADAM'S ALL PURPOSE CLEANER

    4) Cover anything that concerns you. Obviously the open air filter is a smart choice. But other than that, it's your call. I'll be honest with you...unless the car is older (pre-2000) we don't bother covering any wire harnesses, etc. It is simply not needed on newer cars. BUT, do as you please, I'm not gonna stop you. In aaaaaaaall the engine bay details we've done, we've NEVER had one single issue afterwards.

    5) Spray the All Purpose Cleaner LIBERALLY wherever you see fit. The bonnet, down deep in the lower dingy parts, crevices around the intake manifold....WHEREVER you see/feel dirty & caked up crud building. When this is done on a COOL engine, the APC is allowed to "work" and break down the grime. Let sit for just a minute or two, that's all. Any longer is not needed. If this is done on a hot engine bay, it'll never work.

    6) Bust out the brushes....and do work! Get those suckers on anything you can, that you just sprayed the APC on. No need to aggressively get rowdy and such. Just a solid, gentle yet firm brushing, is all you need. Period. Got me?

    7) Grab the hose. Either a nice, low pressure flow straight outta the hose is fine. Or if you have a firehose nozzle of sorts, put it on a low pressure setting. And rinse away the crud!! Consciously "avoid" a straight stream onto critical areas. But other than that you have NOTHING to worry about. This is the part where people get scared, lol. No reason to. Just swallow the lump in your throat and RINSE.

    8) Now, it's time to blow dry. There will be some standing water in parts, and you wanna get rid of it. And while a leaf blower will suffice, it's a bit big and awkward for this task. Here's what we use:
    METROVAC SIDEKICK

    9) Continue with the car wash as planned. If you didn't plan on washing the car....lol....you will NOW. Because of all the overspray and mess on the rest of the car, it's a smart idea to do this before a normally planned car wash in your driveway or wherever your normally detail your ride.

    10) Let your sled run/idle while you wash the rest of the car. The heat from the engine, will dry the little bit of water leftover that you didn't blow out. When you're done with the car wash, turn the engine bay off.

    THAT'S IT for the cleaning portion of things!! If you don't get the desired results. Just repeat. However, if done correctly, even on neglected vehicles, you'll see astounding results with this. The only thing you've gotta take into consideration now, is your plastics and rubber under the hood, are dry and in need of nourishment. So....watching this might help:

    ENGINE BAY DRESSING TUTORIAL

    Again, I will update this original post once I get some "action photos" of the above recommendations. Hope this helps a bit, and hope you guys see great results from doing this. If anyone gets a chance to do this, post up the feedback & results in this thread!! There's a few before & after shots, of a few of the ones we've done, in here:

    http://www.lxforums.com/board/f439/a...thread-343475/
    Likes scott386, QwickSilverC liked this post



  2. #2
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    Bump. Happy Thursday evening everyone.

  3. #3
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    Hey chase,
    do you guys address the diseased looking aluminum typically found on like a 3.5?
    Likes scott386 liked this post

  4. #4
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    Maaaaan. It's not JUST on the 3.5s....I know exactly what you're talking about. That's what happens when people use aggressive degreasers (very unnecessary). The only option is to paint or polish, there's no "spray on, wipe off" solution for that. LOTS of work no matter how ya cut it. How's life bro? You good? We hadn't talked in a good while....

  5. #5
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    Ah ok. I am probably guilty of the aggressive stuff and now it's diseased. Things are great man! Been doing some audio updates on the car and planning for the Adams overhaul, been eyeing up that new mitt less looking furby sponge for washing the car. Hoping for the furby and car wash soap daily deal . Other than that trying to stash extra cash away for a few big winter mods.

    Looks like the business is really taking off man! Congrats keep up with the excitement! Anything new with the charger? Family doing good?

    -Todd

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by todd0218 View Post
    Ah ok. I am probably guilty of the aggressive stuff and now it's diseased. Things are great man! Been doing some audio updates on the car and planning for the Adams overhaul, been eyeing up that new mitt less looking furby sponge for washing the car. Hoping for the furby and car wash soap daily deal . Other than that trying to stash extra cash away for a few big winter mods.

    Looks like the business is really taking off man! Congrats keep up with the excitement! Anything new with the charger? Family doing good?

    -Todd
    Buddy, everything is GOOD. Our new son is AMAAAAAZING. Business is building. Not where I want it YET....but we're gaining respect weekly.
    I've got just a couple small things planned for the Charger, that will make a big difference. Just gotta find the time!! :(
    I'm always here if ya need me man. Good to hear from ya!

  7. #7
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    Great info here, thanks for informing us.
    2006 Magnum SRT8 "HEMIWAGN"; Hemiwagn2: 468 Aluminum N/A, BFNY built, AJ "Hemituner" designed and tuned. 9.495 @ 143.47 MPH, 1.361 60', 3215lbs with driver, DA-325ft.
    Hemiwagn1: 6.1 N/A recordholder, [email protected] MPH, 1.481 60', 3345lbs with driver, DA+500ft

  8. #8
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    Good info, Chase. What's your opinion on covering the alternator? I've heard it both ways.
    How do I.... EVERYTHING!
    SoCalLX - Where Southern California Car Culture Meets Modern Mopar Muscle

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnunes View Post
    Good info, Chase. What's your opinion on covering the alternator? I've heard it both ways.
    Preciate ya buddy! We AVOID it, but don't cover it. You totally could, but I personally don't think it's necessary. Just my opinion.

  10. #10
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    lol, it is common sense... but definitely pull whatever covering you used for the air filter off before starting the vehicle.. I have seen friends be stupid and make an expensive k&n filter look like a crushed aluminum can.
    2015 SUBLIME M6 SRT 392 Challenger
    Stock, Stock, Stockidy Stock Stock Stock.....

  11. #11
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    Haha. ^^^ YUP!!

  12. #12
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    I so need to do this will have to try this. My engine is nasssty.
    Thanks for the tip. I trust the experts! I wishyour place wasnt so far away!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChicagoSRT8 View Post
    I so need to do this will have to try this. My engine is nasssty.
    Thanks for the tip. I trust the experts! I wishyour place wasnt so far away!!
    I appreciate that brother! Good luck, post pics of before and after here in this thread if you want!

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the info...
    Net is where I be......Nathan is me
    *
    2006 Charger SRT8
    Inferno Red (Just a blur to most folks) with All Factory Options / Groups, SRT8 Mats, Side moldings/rear ram's head shaved
    Billet Technology all over + valve covers and coil covers, KillerGlass Pipe, LMI FIV CAI, 180 Tstat, Magnaflow 3" exhaust
    MPR Motorsports built 6.1 based/392 NA Stroker, BBK 85mm TB, TranZformer, Kooks Long Tubes
    BCR coilovers with Hotchkis sways and Nitto 245/45/20F - 295/40/20R NT555-G2 paws


  15. #15
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    Feb 2012
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    damn that's some great work you do.

    Any issues with the Adam's APC with BT under hood pieces, should they be taken off or covered up before hand?

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