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  1. #1
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    Oct 2018
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    Dropped valve seat?

    Had the top rad hose pop off while driving, parked it for a couple hours to cool enough to pop hose back on, drove 2 miles to autozone for new hose/clamp/coolant, won’t start after leaving store. Temp gauge never went past dead middle, so there was no visual indication of overheating.

    I’m assuming I have the known issue of a valve seat dropping after research and seeing the valve seat seems to drop after running, quick stop, quick start.

    Tow truck driver said it sounded to him like either a bent rod or timing chain. I’m hoping to get some insight to help diagnose, and decide if it’s a project I can tackle, or if I should find a hemi speedshop in Los Angeles and upgrade heads at this time.


    Any and all information will be greatly appreciated.


    5.7L
    60,xxx miles
    06 Magnum
    Only mods from stock are suitcase delete and k&n drop in filter



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  2. #2
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    Mar 2016
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    Pull the valve covers and take a look. Does not sound good tho. I would not try cranking anymore until I look under he valve cover.


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  3. #3
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    Aug 2006
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    Buy an inexpensive boroscope and look inside the cylinders though the spark plug holes at the valve seats if possible.

  4. #4
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    Jan 2008
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    Need some clarification here. A dropped seat would not prevent it from starting. However, when it DOES start, you would normally hear a bunch of banging noise. With the tow driver saying bent rod, then there IS some banging going on?

    If the car just plain won't start, then possibly a seat dropped; the valve momentarily hung up and the chain broke. Then, a no start.

    Bottom line, I think that engine is likely toast. Check with a bore scope and see what cylinder has the damage. Then pull the head. There's no way around it if you've dropped a seat. You'd be lucky if the walls are not scored. Best scenario is the head (only) is damaged and you can just replace it. Wow, I always hate to hear of these dropped seats. Had one drop in an '06 police Charger. Engine had to be replaced. Oh, and yes, don't keep cranking it. You're likely doing more damage.

    Good luck brother. Let us know what you find.
    Last edited by Cuda SRT8; 04-15-2019 at 12:24 PM.
    'Cuda SRT8

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  5. #5
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    Oct 2018
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    Would it be normal to have a massive failure like this, but not pop the CEL and read no codes when doing the key dance? I'm just trying to arm myself with the most information possible before having Aretha towed to a local mechanic. This project is definitely beyond the scope of what I have the capabilities for at home.

    I appreciate the quick responses that I woke up to this morning, even if they didn't help quell my concerns on the state of this motor

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuda SRT8 View Post
    Need some clarification here. A dropped seat would not prevent it from starting. However, when it DOES start, you would normally hear a bunch of banging noise. With the tow driver saying bent rod, then there IS some banging going on?

    If the car just plain won't start, then possibly a seat dropped; the valve momentarily hung up and the chain broke. Then, a no start.

    Bottom line, I think that engine is likely toast. Check with a bore scope and see what cylinder has the damage. Then pull the head. There's no way around it if you've dropped a seat. You'd be lucky if the walls are not scored. Best scenario is the head (only) is damaged and you can just replace it. Wow, I always hate to hear of these dropped seats. Had one drop in an '06 police Charger. Engine had to be replaced. Oh, and yes, don't keep cranking it. You're likely doing more damage.

    Good luck brother. Let us know what you find.


    Cuda, she just cranked over without firing. I couldn't make out any odd noises last night when I tried, but was also in a loud parking lot in Hollywood, so there may well have been some noises associated with the issue. I'm hesitant to crank it as it sits parked in front of my house due to not wanting to cause more damage

  7. #7
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    Oct 2018
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    Slight update. She’s headed to the mechanic now, but I did the key dance before loading on the flatbed and got a 2172 code that wasn’t present last night when she initially died. I assume the code is a fairly generic one that pops when a larger problem is present


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  8. #8
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    Mar 2010
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    Atlanta
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    What causes the P2172 code?

    • Stuck-open throttle plate
    • Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor failure
    • Failed throttle body
    • Vacuum leak
    • Open or short in the wiring harness



  9. #9
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    Oct 2018
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    I’ve got the mechanic pulling plugs to send a cam in and assess damage before breaking heads off.

    Hoping no piston/cylinder wall damage, which means only head work.

    Keep Aretha in your Hemi hearts and minds through these trying times


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  10. #10
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    Oct 2018
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    Anyone have insight on Powertrain Products for a rebuilt 345? They seem to have the best price I’ve come across in case my bottom end is damaged, and I need more than head work


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  11. #11
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    If the engine doesn't make any clanging noise when turned by the starter, it may not have dropped a valve.
    Likes AnglerRT liked this post

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2005rtmag View Post
    If the engine doesn't make any clanging noise when turned by the starter, it may not have dropped a valve.
    I didn’t try turning her over once I towed it home, and it was too loud to discern any engine noises where she decided to not start again. Hoping the scope cam finds no head damage and it’s something like the timing chain, but expecting the worst


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  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2005rtmag View Post
    I’m assuming it popped that code as the failsafe after a larger issue. Does it make sense that the code wouldn’t have shown immediately when it wouldn’t start, but popped up upon key dance the next morning? First thing I did when I’d wouldn’t start was the key dance, and it came back clean until the next day


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  15. #15
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    Im thinking the code popped form not pulling any vac during cranking.

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