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  1. #1
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    Apr 2015
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    coolant lines under the intake

    08 Charger RT

    Problem
    My metal coolant lines are leaking where they press into the water pump.

    So after many attempts at reseating the lines into the water pump while it's still bolted on under the intake, I am finally giving in and will pull the intake to replace the o-rings. Hopefully it solves my problem.

    Has anyone replaced the assembly with braided lines and routed them elsewhere? If so, did you simply tap the water pump for fittings, or different? Can it be done with the pump on the car?

    Appreciate the help in advance!
    08 Charger RT Resurrected
    Fastest Recorded Pass; 11.48 @ 120mph
    **Stock 5.7 block, Stock heads, Stock cam, Stock converter, True CAI routed under the bumper, JBA shorty headers, JBA catless mid-pipes to dumps, stock transmission, stock carrier, stock gears, a lot of nitrous, sticky tires, colder plugs, and a really good tune**

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    coolant lines under the intake

    The new orings will fix the leaking, if that is the source of the leak.
    When I put my electric pump on, I kept the passenger side stock metal line but changed the driver side line as the pump no longer had the location for it.
    I pulled said line all the way to the rear of the block and connected the coolant line to an additional coolant line I ran down the driver side of the block to the lower radiator hose with a tap connector. It looks clean enough after all is said and done but if I could have maintained the stock lines, I would have. A lot of work to keep the lines functional for the heater core. Here’s some pictures.
    Tapping and welding a fitting would be a better idea in my case but for you, why would you create more work versus just replacing a oring?


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  3. #3
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    It's 100% where the leak is coming from. I've been watching it for awhile, it's been a slow drip. Recently after I stop driving, if I used the heat, when the car shuts down and back flushes the coolant it leaks out of those two fittings. If I don't use the heat it's just a slow drip.

    I wasn't trying to make more work for myself intentionally. I have a 6.1 intake I'm going to swap on soon once I get ahold of new heads. I know the new o-rings would fix the leak, I've just been procrastinating removing the current intake to do it. I was looking for advice on a better option if it was available, that's all.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banshee_RT View Post
    It's 100% where the leak is coming from. I've been watching it for awhile, it's been a slow drip. Recently after I stop driving, if I used the heat, when the car shuts down and back flushes the coolant it leaks out of those two fittings. If I don't use the heat it's just a slow drip.

    I wasn't trying to make more work for myself intentionally. I have a 6.1 intake I'm going to swap on soon once I get ahold of new heads. I know the new o-rings would fix the leak, I've just been procrastinating removing the current intake to do it. I was looking for advice on a better option if it was available, that's all.
    No hate, I got where you were coming from.
    I’d just replace the orings and watch them, call it good. I had to replace the driver side one at around 30k miles for the same reasons and it was fine till I took it off at 60k.


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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newoldchallenger View Post
    No hate, I got where you were coming from.
    I’d just replace the orings and watch them, call it good. I had to replace the driver side one at around 30k miles for the same reasons and it was fine till I took it off at 60k.


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    Noted, I appreciate your help. I'm going to take it apart on Monday. I'll update this afterwords.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Charlotte NC
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    Don't worry about the job. It will only take you 10 minutes to take off the intake manifold so don't let that hold you back from getting it fixed.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Calgary, Alberta
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    Braided lines would be overkill; simply replace the O-rings.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  8. #8
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    I decided on just replacing the o-rings. Took about an hour overall, because I took time to clean the intake and throttle body during the job. Both lines are sealed correctly and haven’t leaked a drop since. The old rings broke and fell off the second I touched them. Glad to have this bit of maintenance done and on to the next.

  9. #9
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    For everyone; I neglected to mention that during install it is important to lubricate the O-rings and the mating holes with some engine oil or Vaseline to prevent them from being cut or rolling up during install...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    For everyone; I neglected to mention that during install it is important to lubricate the O-rings and the mating holes with some engine oil or Vaseline to prevent them from being cut or rolling up during install...
    I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to lubricate these ones, but am glad I did. I figured as a precaution, better safe than sorry. I appreciate the advice.



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