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  1. #1
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    About to do a head swap and pick up some compression, looking for input

    So I'm putting 6.1 heads on my pre eagle 5.7, and it's going to increase the compression ratio. I'm running good 93 octane has and will have a reliable dyno tune, but I want to see if there's anything else I can do to ensure reliability.

    Is there a colder thermostat than the 180? A 170 maybe?

    I notice that Speedlogix sells an oil cooler, does this have a positive impact of the combustion chamber temperature?

    Can I install one step colder spark plugs than stock?

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  2. #2
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    I picked up a 170 stat at auto zone. There is an old thread for part number. It has the bypass in it.

  3. #3
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    The oil cooler won’t really help with compression. It’s more for helping the oil keeping its lubrication properties. Basically to help prevent it from breaking down.


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  4. #4
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    I ran a 170F for years until it failed. My backup unit was a 180F, so I installed it on the premise the next time I had to delve into the cooling system I would install another 170F. What I observed with the 180F was very similar performance to the 170F. With major mods, the limiting factor turns out to be the radiator. Even the best OEM (6.1) radiator will not allow a 170F to stay in-play - even if the fans are running constantly.

    You really need a high performance aftermarket radiator that is significantly more efficient such that it can shed thermal energy effortlessly - thus allowing a 170F to actually function in the desired manner. In other words, under heavy (thermal) load the coolant temp actually(!) stays at or just above the set point (opening is actually 172-175F).

    The highest loading / worst case scenario is at a road course at ten / tenths for a bunch of laps. On a 20-25C day, coolant temps will still slowly creep up - even with a kick-azz radiator. On the street, my system hovers around 80-81C (176-178F) with the 170F T-stat during normal driving (note that I'm generating more thermal energy with a healthy 445ci stroker). Note also my fans run constantly at operating temperature. Also...the fan system simply does not care (I'm still running the OEM unit :^)

    I wouldn't worry too much about reliability; if everything is operating nominally, everything should be a non-issue. As far as colder plugs; if you're running a healthy cam it won't hurt. but don't expect any sort of cooling effect / integrity. More exposed (deeper reach) porcelain surrounding the electrode allows for more thermal energy to be transferred away from the combustion process. One - even two steps colder does not really equate on typical power adders. They become effective when combustion pressures and therefore temperatures are significantly higher than OEM where a colder plug comes into play (pre-ignition for example).
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  5. #5
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    what static comp are you lookign for? guessing around ~11:1. Plenty safe with a decent cam on pump gas. 170-180 tstat probably doesnt matter much. Oil cooler is never a bad thing.
    I used to run water/meth during the summer to help cool the intake manifold and clean the chambers and piston tops. Worked well. Wasnt needed or tuned for it but it made a difference in temps.
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  6. #6
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    I love my mishimoto radiator, and if you're on an old water pump, I'd replace that preemptively, but that's just me.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBL.DWN View Post
    what static comp are you lookign for? guessing around ~11:1. Plenty safe with a decent cam on pump gas. 170-180 tstat probably doesnt matter much. Oil cooler is never a bad thing.
    I used to run water/meth during the summer to help cool the intake manifold and clean the chambers and piston tops. Worked well. Wasnt needed or tuned for it but it made a difference in temps.
    Yeah about 11.3:1 according to my cam supplier.

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  8. #8
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    I'm a little concerned that I don't know the piston height of the 5.7, and I don't know the exact quench distance with the 6.1 heads and the stock 5.7 gasket.

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  9. #9
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    damn i just got rid of my stock 5.7 pistons on friday. I could have measured them. Im fairly certain they have a 1.22" cd and stock 6.1 heads have a 74cc chamber.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBL.DWN View Post
    damn i just got rid of my stock 5.7 pistons on friday. I could have measured them. Im fairly certain they have a 1.22" cd and stock 6.1 heads have a 74cc chamber.
    I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing, I meant the quench distance between the top of the piston at TDC and the quench pad on the heads. And since I'm using 6.1 heads I don't know exactly what it'll be.

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  11. #11
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    I've decided to go ahead with the 11.3:1 compression. I run 93 and I have a good tuner who'll be tuning in the dyno so I doubt there will be any problems. I'm hoping for a really solid, torquey build that will be faster than the average H/C build.

    My builds have always been faster than their numbers suggest, because I always shoot for torque and let the horsepower fall where it may. But this combo should rev past 6k and make a lot more power up top too.

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  12. #12
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    If I understand Keith; you're concerned about adequate clearance between your particular OEM piston domes the 6.1 head quench pads (with 0.004" surface cleanup)? You're fine (misunderstood the other day).

  13. #13
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    Which head gaskets are you using ?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ric3xrt View Post
    Which head gaskets are you using ?
    Yes Hemissary that's what I was concerned about.

    I'm using factory pre eagle 5.7 hemi gaskets.

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  15. #15
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    My stock fuel rails will fit the 6.4 manifold right?

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