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  1. #16
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    Mar 2016
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    This lifter and cam job on this engine is a huge job. I understand why it cost almost $5000 for the dealer to do this job. While it was apart, I lapped the valves. One intake valve looked brand new. Still a perfect thin mating surface. A couple exhaust seats were a little out of round. I wish I had the tools to do a proper valve job. The mating surface is right at maximum specs on some of the valves.

  2. #17
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    Nov 2017
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    Warren, Oh
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    My headgaskets are at 3.950 and my bore is at 3.937. I’m using cometic gaskets and they only come in 3.950 for the 5.7
    03 Ram 392 Stroker

  3. #18
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    Mar 2016
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    It seem all aftermarket gasket makers only make them at the largest over bored size available. I guess if I want the proper sized gasket for a stock bore, I would have to buy them from the dealer? I wanted to do the stroker kit for my 5.7, but I just don't have the money for it. Would be nice.

  4. #19
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    Jul 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark7000 View Post
    The first gasket set was from rockauto. It was the same part number as the Fel-Pro. So I'm guessing made by the same company but just different same on the box. Check to make sure you have a right and left gasket. I got a Melling cam, part #MC1402, OE cut. I wanted to find something slightly better, but my car has been down too long and running out of money. The new head bolts from rockauto are Mahle and one set had one of the smaller bolts switched with a slightly larger bolt. I had to reuse one old one. If you plan on doing this job without removing the engine, it can be a little tricky getting bolts off. If you do, I suggest removing the exhaust manifold with the head. I have more suggestions if you go that way. But without removing the oil pan, the bolt for the oil pump pick up tube was very tricky.
    Yeah I got the head gasket kit from summit made by fel-Pro, comes with all the gaskets necessary. It does look like the one you have in your picture there though. As far as size compared to stock, not sure as stock is still currently installed. Looks like it should be ok, hopefully. I briefly came across the MC 1402 and was going to purchase it as it was about half the price of stock, but then I decided to look into 6.4 cam swap. I didn't want to go crazy and spend $800+ on a custom cam or anything but I wanted some sort of upgrade while I'm in there since I'm in there. My car has been down since the winter time and I've been tactfully plotting my parts since lol. Its crazy to finally have them all in hand and not just looking at a screen anymore. I got new head bolts made my Fel-pro through Summit. I am not personally doing the work, but from what I now understand at this point is that the engine will be removed, repaired, and reinstalled.

    Quote Originally Posted by shark7000 View Post
    This lifter and cam job on this engine is a huge job. I understand why it cost almost $5000 for the dealer to do this job. While it was apart, I lapped the valves. One intake valve looked brand new. Still a perfect thin mating surface. A couple exhaust seats were a little out of round. I wish I had the tools to do a proper valve job. The mating surface is right at maximum specs on some of the valves.
    Yeah, I typically do ALL of my car repairs on my own. I honestly don't trust anyone else working on my car, and anytime I am forced to let someone else work on it I always seem to come home with 1 or more broken parts as a result and then of course have to spend even more money repairing those damages. I REALLY wanted to do this repair, but don't really have a garage to work on it in and don't really have the space/location to have everything laid out. Additionally, like everything else, I'm sure there are plenty of specialty tools necessary that I don't have, nor have I ever done this repair before. Like anything else, I'm sure shutting up and just doing it is the only way, but I would hate to get half way through and be like "damn, I never should have started this" lol plus is anything goes wrong it will be the "Did I do that??". So, due to time, location, knowledge, etc. as much as I would like to do the repair, I decided it is probably best to suck it up and pay the money to just have it done. I have done a lot of searching for parts and price matching and such to keep that bill as minimal as possible. I will be having work done by a dodge technician..I'm thinking he might have a better idea what he's doing than I ha-ha, at least he's been doing it for 16 years



  5. #20
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    Mar 2016
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    I watched a video where someone was working on an older truck. The flywheel was a different shape and needed a special tool. Mine was shorter and had threaded holes, so I was able to an old fashioned pulley puller. Now, getting the harmonic balancer torqued to 149 Foot pounds is tricky. I'm hoping the impact wrench does the job. I can't hold the pulley from turning. lol
    I would have preferred to let the shop do it, but money is running low, just with buying the parts. And of course, every other back up vehicle I have breaks down too. Then the one we borrowed from mother in law blew a heater core hose on the highway. What fun.
    Last edited by shark7000; 07-13-2018 at 03:46 AM.

  6. #21
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    Mar 2016
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    The question about the Dodge tech doing the work, is he going to check the valves too? I lapped my valves while I was at it. Especially since new valve seals are in the gasket kit. Since I didn't have the tools to do a proper valve job, all I could do was lap them. Several we're right at the max or just under the max for mating surface on the seats. One intake valve looked perfect. The rest had some imperfections to lap out. Two where slightly getting out of round. Still touched low on the seat, but untouched just obove where I t was touching, just in one spot. I should have taken pictures.
    Last edited by shark7000; 07-13-2018 at 04:05 AM.

  7. #22
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    Jul 2018
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    I believe he is supposed to be doing like a typical all around genereal look over jus to make sure everything looks good but he is not specifically doing the valves. There are tons of things I would like to do while its open to clean it up, but obviously I don't wanna marry the whole project. As you can imagine, dodge techs don't have full access to machining tools and such so all that kind of extra stuff will be pretty minimal. Im having a hard enough time just trying to find springs to go in with no issues.

  8. #23
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    Mar 2016
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    I now have a cam sensor code causing the check engine light to come on. I need to figure out if the cam position sensor is bad or not? Or, when I put the timing chain set in and forgot to pull the retaining pin out to put the tension on the chain untill I already put the pump on, maybe it jumped a tooth? IDK. I need to figure out how to bench test it or something. At least it's easy to get to. But if it jumped a tooth and is out of timing, I would have to pull the front off again. :-(

  9. #24
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    Jul 2018
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    no bueno, bro! sorry to hear that. Are you sure you got timing correct? that is one thing i was deff concerned about. How long has it been down, how much has it been driven? any weird noises or symptoms??

  10. #25
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    Mar 2016
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    When I changed the cam and lifters, I forgot to pull the pin on the new timing chain tensioner, to put the tension on the chain, untill I already put the oil pump on. Then I couldn't see if it jumped a tooth or not. I was hoping it was still on the marks. It seems fine at first. Then I drive it a little and the service engine light came on. Then it seems to run a little rough. It tries to stall out while driving it too. I'm hoping it's just coincidence that it started acting up when I did the cam? The only way right now to tell if the chain jumped a tooth before I remembered to put tension on it, is by opening the front of the engine again. I'm really hoping it's just the cam sensor? It does run fairly smooth untill it throws the cam sensor code. Then it runs rough.
    Last edited by shark7000; 07-18-2018 at 05:54 PM.

  11. #26
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    Jul 2018
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    i would start new thread on that if you havent already, maybe someone knows whats up

    I wanna say i have heard that it will throw a code similar to that if MDS is acting up or if the VVT solenoid is faulty...did you do VVT solenoid?? Did you keep or remove MDS?? If removed, what was your process..


    also, if you did this 6.4 cam swap, what did you do for valve springs and what year model etc??

    2012 Chrysler 300 5.7 liter oil control valve codes P000B and P0016 - YouTube
    Last edited by WontStopTheFUnk; 07-18-2018 at 06:54 PM.
    Thanks shark7000 thanked for this post

  12. #27
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    Mar 2016
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    I went with the OE cut cam. I did not change any solenoids. I kept MDS and VVT just seems to be the piece that bolted on to the cam? Just using centrifugal force? I did not do anything with the solenoids under the intake manifold. I read that when designing the 6.4, they redesigned everything. So I never thought it would work the same cam. I should have checked on that before hand. I made sure the lifter groups were the proper ones in the proper positions. I did lap valves when replacing the seals. I will have to check more into the other things you mentioned, the VVT solenoid and MDS solenoids. At least the intake manifold gasket is reusable. Just watched the video on that link. Wrong oil type does come up on mine too. So I will be checking on that oil solenoid, or whatever it was called. I have been getting that wrong oil type off and on. I made sure to put exactly what it requires. Thank you for that link.
    Last edited by shark7000; 07-18-2018 at 08:59 PM.

  13. #28
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    Jul 2018
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    from what i understand, the cam phaser (piece on the front) is actually driven by centrifigual force but mostly driven by the VVT solenoid. The VVT solenoid retards/advances timing using the solenoid and oil flow into the phaser. I have heard a failure of this part is related to lifter failure, but cant swear to it. I have never popped a code for it or had any VVT codes pop up. I will be doing the 6.4 cam in mine and i also have a new VVT solenoid ready to go. I heard it was a problem, checked with my installer friend he said "yes" so i bought it. i have never had issues, but for $30 its not worth taking apart the intake again. I also bought new stock push rods as they have also been revised, as well as the VVT solenoid. I would also recommend referencing it by the exact code for the CEL and exact description in your search for answers. it will help.


    Dodge VVT Valve Timing - YouTube
    Fixing Hemi Engine Code P000B Camshaft Solenoid - YouTube
    Last edited by WontStopTheFUnk; 07-18-2018 at 09:15 PM.

  14. #29
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    Mar 2016
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    I can't post the picture that shows the actual damage on the VVT solenoid. I get the message that it exceeds my limit by 62.2 Kilobytes. There is actually a piece of thin metal sticking out if the valve. And chewed up edges where that is. So I am very sure this is the problem. lol

  15. #30
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    Jul 2018
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    Yea I Mean I would deff love to see it. I have had issues trying to upload pictures myself, cant seem to figure out what it wants. Big ones, small ones, medium ones...it only takes what it wants which is typically the least important picture I want to post lol

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