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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    15
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    This lifter and cam job on this engine is a huge job. I understand why it cost almost $5000 for the dealer to do this job. While it was apart, I lapped the valves. One intake valve looked brand new. Still a perfect thin mating surface. A couple exhaust seats were a little out of round. I wish I had the tools to do a proper valve job. The mating surface is right at maximum specs on some of the valves.



  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Warren, Oh
    Posts
    115
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    My headgaskets are at 3.950 and my bore is at 3.937. I’m using cometic gaskets and they only come in 3.950 for the 5.7
    03 Ram 392 Stroker

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    15
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    It seem all aftermarket gasket makers only make them at the largest over bored size available. I guess if I want the proper sized gasket for a stock bore, I would have to buy them from the dealer? I wanted to do the stroker kit for my 5.7, but I just don't have the money for it. Would be nice.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    19
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark7000 View Post
    The first gasket set was from rockauto. It was the same part number as the Fel-Pro. So I'm guessing made by the same company but just different same on the box. Check to make sure you have a right and left gasket. I got a Melling cam, part #MC1402, OE cut. I wanted to find something slightly better, but my car has been down too long and running out of money. The new head bolts from rockauto are Mahle and one set had one of the smaller bolts switched with a slightly larger bolt. I had to reuse one old one. If you plan on doing this job without removing the engine, it can be a little tricky getting bolts off. If you do, I suggest removing the exhaust manifold with the head. I have more suggestions if you go that way. But without removing the oil pan, the bolt for the oil pump pick up tube was very tricky.
    Yeah I got the head gasket kit from summit made by fel-Pro, comes with all the gaskets necessary. It does look like the one you have in your picture there though. As far as size compared to stock, not sure as stock is still currently installed. Looks like it should be ok, hopefully. I briefly came across the MC 1402 and was going to purchase it as it was about half the price of stock, but then I decided to look into 6.4 cam swap. I didn't want to go crazy and spend $800+ on a custom cam or anything but I wanted some sort of upgrade while I'm in there since I'm in there. My car has been down since the winter time and I've been tactfully plotting my parts since lol. Its crazy to finally have them all in hand and not just looking at a screen anymore. I got new head bolts made my Fel-pro through Summit. I am not personally doing the work, but from what I now understand at this point is that the engine will be removed, repaired, and reinstalled.

    Quote Originally Posted by shark7000 View Post
    This lifter and cam job on this engine is a huge job. I understand why it cost almost $5000 for the dealer to do this job. While it was apart, I lapped the valves. One intake valve looked brand new. Still a perfect thin mating surface. A couple exhaust seats were a little out of round. I wish I had the tools to do a proper valve job. The mating surface is right at maximum specs on some of the valves.
    Yeah, I typically do ALL of my car repairs on my own. I honestly don't trust anyone else working on my car, and anytime I am forced to let someone else work on it I always seem to come home with 1 or more broken parts as a result and then of course have to spend even more money repairing those damages. I REALLY wanted to do this repair, but don't really have a garage to work on it in and don't really have the space/location to have everything laid out. Additionally, like everything else, I'm sure there are plenty of specialty tools necessary that I don't have, nor have I ever done this repair before. Like anything else, I'm sure shutting up and just doing it is the only way, but I would hate to get half way through and be like "damn, I never should have started this" lol plus is anything goes wrong it will be the "Did I do that??". So, due to time, location, knowledge, etc. as much as I would like to do the repair, I decided it is probably best to suck it up and pay the money to just have it done. I have done a lot of searching for parts and price matching and such to keep that bill as minimal as possible. I will be having work done by a dodge technician..I'm thinking he might have a better idea what he's doing than I ha-ha, at least he's been doing it for 16 years

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    15
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    I watched a video where someone was working on an older truck. The flywheel was a different shape and needed a special tool. Mine was shorter and had threaded holes, so I was able to an old fashioned pulley puller. Now, getting the harmonic balancer torqued to 149 Foot pounds is tricky. I'm hoping the impact wrench does the job. I can't hold the pulley from turning. lol
    I would have preferred to let the shop do it, but money is running low, just with buying the parts. And of course, every other back up vehicle I have breaks down too. Then the one we borrowed from mother in law blew a heater core hose on the highway. What fun.
    Last edited by shark7000; 07-13-2018 at 03:46 AM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    15
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    The question about the Dodge tech doing the work, is he going to check the valves too? I lapped my valves while I was at it. Especially since new valve seals are in the gasket kit. Since I didn't have the tools to do a proper valve job, all I could do was lap them. Several we're right at the max or just under the max for mating surface on the seats. One intake valve looked perfect. The rest had some imperfections to lap out. Two where slightly getting out of round. Still touched low on the seat, but untouched just obove where I t was touching, just in one spot. I should have taken pictures.
    Last edited by shark7000; 07-13-2018 at 04:05 AM.

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