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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
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    Newbie Desperately Seeking Help

    I'm new here. If I'm honest, I joined because I'm desperately seeking some help from someone who has been where I am with this car.

    The short end of my problem is I've tried 4 different brands of crankshaft position sensors, all result in codes (P0300, P0315, P0335, and/or P0339), depending on brand used I could have very long cranking before starting or spitting and sputtering until eventually starts, tried a Mopar part with no luck, can't find any issues in connector or wires and completely baffled. I detailed as best as I could below but it's pretty long. Thank you to anyone for the help.
    2007 Chrysler 300 base, 2.7l V6 Current engine codes: P0315, P0339, P0300 Previous Codes related to this issue: All of the above, P0335
    The following is pretty long and as detailed as I can remember.

    I've known I have a crankshaft sensor going bad. Months ago I attempted to replace the CKP and my car ran worse and barely started. Part was purchased from local Advanced Auto and I believe a Carquest brand part. I put the old CKP back in and car ran ****ty but acceptable. Skip forward to last week. My car had gotten to point I have no faith in reaching my destination or even back home so I started doing more research and I can't begin to tell how many different things I think I've learned. I returned previous CKP to Advanced Auto and received a replacement thinking bad sensor. I wish. Same ****. At this time I begin getting P0300 code for random misfire. My dad, many year diesel mechanic, and I thought I may have timing issues from when replacing water pump last year. We torn the front and double checked all timing, replaced cam chains (crank chains were replaced when water pump was replaced), double checked all timing many many times while putting the engine back together, only to have nothing change. At this point I'm getting P0335 and maybe P0300. I assume that it has to be the CKP so do more research. By now it was Sunday. I go to AutoZone and O'Reilly's hoping one of them work. I installed the O'Reilly's and car cranked up beautiful with no issues. I need add in that I always disconnected battery in the event there was a relearn period. Like a doubtful dumbass, I decided to try the one from AutoZone, Dormant I believe, and of course it led to repeated codes involving CKP. The car was very hard to crank. It would sputter and was very hard to get to start. This car has never done that to me. I reinstall the O'Reilly's, Standard brand, and of course I got codes relating to CKP and this time I would have to crank and crank and crank before car started but with codes relating to CKP. I crawled under the car, tightened the CKP bolt down a tiny bit more and wiggled the wires leading to the connector and double checked the wires for damage and could see none (I need to add that at one point Friday I did test the connector with the key on and was getting 5v if I remember correctly; was very hard alone under the car), and the car cranked perfect. Fired right up. No codes. No issues. Couple hours later I get the drive and drive home, about 90 miles. At about 75 miles my car started running like ****. Eventually the engine light came on. The codes, can't remember specific numbers at the moment, were CKP circuit intermittent "A" and for the first time, CKP no learned. At this point my car became difficult to drive and continually stalled out. I was close to home so I pushed on. When I was going uphill on the interstate there would be no power. Tach would go crazy at times. Speedometer would drop to 0 when going about 75-80 mph. For just a quick second. When I finally arrived home I started doing more research and saw again that it was highly recommended to use genuine Mopar parts because these are very sensitive when it comes to the CKP and camshaft position sensor. So on Monday I went to get a genuine part at my local dealer. Extremely expensive compared to aftermarket. On the way home, less than 10 miles, I stopped at Advanced Auto and AutoZone. The entire time I still have codes from Sun night. I cleared them numerous times and every time the engine cranked the light came back. I need to add that every crank on Mon was a very long crank before car started. When I made my last stop on the way home my car would restart. At this point it is doing the spitting and sputtering like it wanted to start. I wiggled wires and continued to try cranking until I killed battery like a genius. By now I've called for a tow. I decided to let car cool down and try after a while because wrecked gonna take an hour. After 30 minutes someone offered to jump me. Before attempting to crank my car I wiggled wires the best I could from the top back of the engine. When I attempted to crank it was no longer spitting and sputtering, it was doing the long ass crank crap. I limped the car home. I installed genuine Mopar part. Go to crank. Long ass crank with P0315 & P0339 codes. Clear codes. Try again. Same thing. Crawl under car and wiggle wires, check wires, unplugged sensor, check wires more, plugged sensor in and go crank car. Long crank. Same codes. P0315 & P0339. At this point I am assuming it is the connector plugging into sensor. I can get the three wire connector at O'Reilly's today. My question is, is this my next move or is there something else I need to do or know??? When I talked to "master mechanic" at dealer, he told that there is no need to relearn a CKP or camshaft position sensor. It's not required. If I do need to replace the connector, help!!?? I'm trying to find instructions online but more results have to do with only replacing the CKP itself and nothing on the connector. ANY help at all would be amazing and greatly appreciated!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Southfield, MI
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    Instead of replacing, check the connector for loose pins or corrosion. Some electrical contact cleaner can help with corrosion. Make sure the pins are fully seated by pushing in from the back side (where the wires come in).

    Make sure it is seating well when installed to the engine, a slight gap or shift can cause problems with detecting.

    Try a coast down from 70 - 30 mph, as the mechanic said it's not mandatory but can help with the TLC learn (p0315)

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